UK Reefs

General Interest => DIY => Topic started by: tangtastic on November 03, 2011, 11:22:33 PM

Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 03, 2011, 11:22:33 PM
This is Jamie's DIY Build (aka "TheDOdblG"), He composed what follows.  I have copied his work over to this forum with his permission.

A Little Bit of Background:

I have a 44 gallon pentagon corner tank that is virtually impossible to light in a way that maintains proper reef lighting while still looking aesthetically pleasing and remaining functional. When I purchased the tank and stand a few years back, it looked identical to this stock photo I found on the web, and has the following dimensions:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168155730452/picture)   (https://graph.facebook.com/676168139063787/picture)

And came with this stock hood:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168302397104/picture)

The hood is made from plastic and is a rather flimsy. As you can see from the photo above, in the middle of the hood there’s a widow made of clear acrylic. This is where you can put a 16” fluorescent light. The red arrow points at a cover that can be removed for placement of an additional 16” light. This hood really limits your lighting options, and obviously won’t do for a reef tank, so I replaced it with a glass canopy and added a 24” HAGEN Power GLO Dual T5 light (24 Watt, 122 Lux, 18,000K). The light fixture that came with the tank didn’t go to waste. It uses one CORALIFE Actinic Blue Fluorescent Bulb (15 Watt, 420nm peak). There’s also a moonlight that uses three small LEDs (1 Watt total at full intensity):
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168209063780/picture)

(https://graph.facebook.com/676168275730440/picture)

While much better than what could be accomplished with the stock hood, this setup is still far from ideal. Not too many corals would even consider stepping foot in this tank. The photos above (taken over two years ago) show the different lighting this arrangement provided. The lights were on timers. The Actinic light came on first, then 2 hrs later the T5’s kicked in. The Moonlights were on an automatic 29.5 day lunar cycle. The eventual brightening and fading of the Moonlight (and its shimmer effect) is what enticed me to do an LED project. Even though the LEDs only totaled 1 Watt at best, they were certainly the most pleasing to look at.

So after much daydreaming and researching on the web, I came up with an idea to create a multipurpose aquarium hood. The rest of this post will be devoted to its development as I continue to improve it. But first I should mention that I read a very detailed and useful thread titled “96 LED Build (http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/showthread.php?t=400993)” by Ned Simpson (aka Surff), and decided I should borrow his “standard legal disclaimer” so I too don't get my ass sued off. After all I, like Ned, live in the United States.

As with any project that uses items that cut, burn, chop, fall, rotate, flog, zap, blind, etc., caution is most important. Please be advised that I take absolutely no responsibility for your actions regarding your use of any material provided here.

Articles and information provided are for educational purposes only. There is no substitution for official manufacturer's instructions and professional advice. Please contact the product manufacturer before modifying any devices or software. Please contact a licensed professional before attempting anything physical or following any advice given here. Neither the author, Jamie Jardin, nor any other contributors are responsible whatsoever for any damage incurred by following any instructions or advice provided.

Although it would be difficult to do, if you follow these articles and it leads to an electrical short that burns your house down - it's not my problem. If your wife divorces you shortly after, not my problem. If you lose your job and end up on the street - not my problem. If your bank account is empty - not my problem. If your credit cards are maxed out, I may share your pain, but it’s still not my problem. If you follow through with this, any and all consequences are your own problem and I will not be held responsible in any way.

I hope you enjoy my build, and good luck with yours. Enjoy!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 03, 2011, 11:23:24 PM
STEP 1: Initial Design Ideas (What do You Want Your Hood to do?)

I minus well throw some chum into the water early on to lure you in: Here’s a quick sneak peak of what I’m currently constructing:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168289063772/picture)   (https://graph.facebook.com/676168365730431/picture)


Just a light, right? Essentially yes, but actually so much more. I want this hood to not only light my tank, but do so at the proper levels and in a controlled way that mimics the way nature would do it. That is, have a sunrise and a sunset, and have a lunar cycle that changes in accordance with the current moon phase. This hood should also monitor and control the temperature of the heatsink(s) because I want those little guys to last at least a decade. It should also monitor and control the water temperature, and even control water currents (DIY Wavemaker). I also want this hood to feed my fish, and also to control the lighting in my sump/refugium. The hood should be easily upgradeable and expandable. Maybe in a later version it will even simulate cloud coverage & produce the occasional lightning storm (with increased wave action). And finally, while I’m not a big fan of the looks/material of the tank and stand, it’s what I have, and so the hood should match.

After coming up with these general ideas as to what I wanted my hood to do, I decided to devise a layout for the Heatsink and LEDs. I want to maintain ease of accessibility to the tank while maximizing the lighting’s footprint, so I designed a removable door to a small opening smack dab in the front. This little caveat imposed numerous design and assembly challenges that were…let’s just say they were really fun! After completing the heatsink, the next step was to construct the wooden portion of the hood and mount the heatsink to it (while determining where all the “guts” were going to go). Then I could do some of the acrylic work, and finally dig in to the electronics and programing. I should also mention that while working on this project, I simultaneously worked on a mini LED project for the sump (more chum anyone?):
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168455730422/picture)

My next post will detail the design and build of the heatsink, which will also cover LED choices and layout
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 03, 2011, 11:23:50 PM
STEP 2: Heatsink Design & LED Layout

I wasn’t exactly sure how many LEDs I was going to need for this project (and still don’t know), so I decided to go a little (a lot?) overboard. If there are “too many” LEDs or it’s “too bright,” I can simply dim them with the LED controller and Power LED Shield V2’s  (http://www.chestersgarage.com/new-store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=6) I plan on implementing. An advantage to that is the LEDs will last longer since I won’t have to run them at full power. The obvious disadvantage is the initial cost. Even though I’m certain there are more than enough LEDs, there’s still room available for expansion if either I or the fish and corals desire more!

I was able to get a rough idea of how many 3 Watt LEDs I would need based off of Ned’s Approximation Equation (http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/showthread.php?t=400993):

     Number of LEDs = Tank’s Water Surface Area ÷ Desired Watts per in².

So, with my tank's dimensions, A = net width * net length = 443.5 in²., where A is equal to surface area. Now, given a desired mixed coral environment, and a net depth of ~18 inches while utilizing ~60° optics, there is a need for 13-15 Watts per in². Finally, the number of LEDs can be determined:

     Number of LEDs = 443.5 in² ÷ 13 Watts per in² ≈ 34 LEDs.

I’m not convinced by this equation due to the fact that if I want more Watts per in², then I would need fewer LEDs! It seems obvious that an inversely proportional relationship in this situation is erroneous, not to mention issues with the units. At any rate, I do believe it is a fairly good approximation, so I will just go with it. I just wish I had access to a Photosynthetically Active Radiation (PAR) meter to verify.

I mentioned earlier about overdoing it with the amount of LEDs, so I decided on a 20% increase in the amount determined above (I should also mention that the LED drivers I want to use was also a determining factor in the number of LEDs, as you eventually will find out in a later post). As you can see from the heatsink layout below, there’s plenty of room for expansion:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171195730148/picture)

These are the LEDs I want installed on the heatsink:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168445730423/picture)

Not only do I want the capability of dimming all the LEDs, I want to be able control each color individually so I can eventually come up with the color mixture that works best for my tank. This will pose some obstacles with everything else I want the controller to do, but we’ll see how to get around them later when I discuss the LED controller and Power LED Shield V2’s (http://www.chestersgarage.com/new-store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=6). And speaking of later, we'll also get to my sump's light, which has an additional 5 LEDs for the Chaeto to enjoy: 4 CREE XP-G Cool Whites + 1 CREE XP-G Neutral White. Now that the LED layout is determined, and I know what I want my heatsink to look like, I can begin building it.

UPDATE: I added two more Royal Blue LEDs on it's own channel for the moonlights (CH4 - Shield 2). This brings the total to 48 LEDS - 43 in the main hood, 5 in the sump.
 

My next post will detail working the aluminum heatsink.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 03, 2011, 11:24:23 PM
STEP 3: Heatsink Preparation

I ended up purchasing two extruded aluminum heatsinks with the following dimensions:
     16” x 7.280” x 1.300”
     12” x 7.280” x 1.300”

And here’s a list of various tools and materials I used to prepare them (I’m not saying you need to use these particular things, I’m just saying this is what I ended up using):

Tools & Materials Utilized in Cutting Heatsink:
     Table Saw with Carbide Tipped Blade
     Saber Saw with Carbide Blade
     Hacksaw
     Metal Files
     Square (and a pencil works great for writing on the Heatsink)

Tools & Materials Utilized in Preparing Heatsink for LEDs:
     Drill Press
     Cutting Oil
     4-40 Tap & Drill Set
     Computer Generated Template
     Hand Held Orbital Sander
     Sandpaper for the Orbital Sander (I used various grits from 100 to 1000)
     Dish Soap
     Acetone

Tools & Materials Utilized in Joining Heatsink Together:
     Drill Press with extra-long HSS drill bits
     Metal Files
     Thermal Compound
     Various Washers, Nuts & Bolts
     Various wrenches
     Vice
     Hacksaw

So, after taking careful measurements, and rechecking them several times, I was ready to cut the smaller heatsink. The red arrow in the picture below is pointing at the cut needed for an opening in the front of the tank. To make the majority of that cut, I used a table saw, making sure to stop just short of the angle. This part required further cutting using a saber saw and a hacksaw. It also needed some filing down. You will also notice I cut out a small section of fins (blue arrow) to make room for the power supply. I did this using the table saw and finished it up with a file. You can also see that a small portion of the fins were removed from the other heatsink:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168532397081/picture)

In the picture above, you can see down along the sides of the sink where I drilled several holes using a drill press and some cutting oil. Some of these holes are used to join the two heatsinks together using bolts (Actually, I had to cut the heads off some bolts using a vice and a hacksaw and just use the thread stock and some nuts and washers on both ends of the stock. It had to be done this way because the bolts I had didn’t fit in between the fins). Anyway, if you look closely through the fins, you can see that several rows of holes were drilled perpendicular to them (these are like little tunnels for the wires to run through). Making these holes required the use of an extra-long HSS drill bit. These next two pictures show the two heatsinks becoming one:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168485730419/picture)   (https://graph.facebook.com/676168492397085/picture)

Here’s a close up of the holes drilled for the LEDs (also using a drill press). Spacing between groups of holes is approximately 2 inches (except in the center where spacing for a number of LEDs is around 1 inch. I ended up using the drill bit that came with the 4-40 tap to make the holes to which the yellow arrows are pointing. You will also notice an extra hole slightly larger than the other two (purple arrow). This extra hole is used to conceal the wiring. I printed off a template I made on my computer and taped it on the sink to make sure my holes were going to be uniform and aligned prior to any drilling. I also had to make sure that the holes fell between the fin gaps, and making a template helped ensure this.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168552397079/picture)

So for 41 LEDs, that’s a lot of holes. But remember I said I wanted room for expansion, so I went ahead and drilled enough to accommodate up to 58 LEDs. NOT including the holes for the wiring & bolts etc., that’s 116 holes. What’s more is all these holes had to be tapped by hand!

So once the heatsinks were drilled and tapped and joined together (with a layer of thermal compound in between the sinks), I filed off any burrs and rough edges and worked my way up to 1000 grit with the orbital sander across all the flat surfaces. Finally, I washed it up real nice using dish soap, and after drying, borrowed my wife’s nail polish remover (100% Acetone) to give it a final cleaning before mounting the LEDs. For a good tutorial on how to do most of this, I again refer you to Ned’s 96 LED Build (http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/showthread.php?t=400993).

My next post will cover installing the LEDs on the heatsink.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 03, 2011, 11:25:42 PM
STEP 4: LED Installation

There’s really not a whole lot to this step, but given how I wanted to run my wiring, it was extremely tedious to say the least. A few hours in, I really started to regret my decision…


Tools & Materials Utilized in LED Installation:
     LEDs mounted on Stars from STEP 2
     4-40 x 3/8 Nylon Round Head Screws
     4-40 x 3/8 Stainless Steel Round Head Screw
     Insulating Fiber Washers (4mm x 8mm x 0.8mm)
     Thermal Compound & Compound Spreader
     Flat Head & Phillips Head Screwdrivers
     22 AWG Wire (Various Colors)
     Wire Stripper
     Wire Cutter
     Variable Temperature Soldering Iron
     Rosin-Core Solder
     Flux
     Needle Nose Pliers
     Tweezers
     Soldering Assist Tool
     Cordless Hand Held Drill

So, with all the materials & tools gathered up, and a freshly prepared heatsink, I was ready to tack on those high powered LEDs. First thing I did was break out a copy of my layout from STEP 2. Doing one color of LED one LED at a time, I began by applying a dab of thermal compound to the back of a LED star, then placing the LED star in between the designated holes (the yellow & purple arrows from STEP 3). I then applied a little downward pressure on the LED with my finger, and while doing this, I pushed it around a bit in a circular motion. This helped to ensure the compound filled up any little gaps/scratches in the sink. Next, I put a washer on the screws and put the washer/screw assembly into the holes (yellow arrows from STEP 2) and screwed them in until they just started making contact with the LED star. I then tightened one screw a quarter turn or so, then the other, and continued alternating between the screws until the LED was firmly in place. I then grabbed the other LEDs and did the same process 40 more times, drank a beer, then took a nap.

When I woke from my nap, I grabbed my wiring blueprint, some white 22 gauge wire, and started in on the white LEDs. They are wired in series, with one long wire soldered to the first LED’s (+) side, and another shorter wire connected to the LED’s (–) side that also gets soldered on to the next LED’s (+). This process is repeated until the last LED in series, where another long wire connected to the its (-) side (this time black). Finally, this wire meets up with the first long white wire (these two wires will eventually get hooked up to terminals on the Power LED Shield (http://www.chestersgarage.com/new-store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=6)). I then twisted these wires together using a cordless drill. I then did the same thing for each of the other LEDs, and then taped all the groups of wires together. Feeding the wires in and out and around all those holes and fins was a blast! (Not at all). Needle nose pliers, some tweezers, a soldering iron assist tool, steady hands, lots of patience, and cursing loudly all played key roles in completing this part.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168622397072/picture)

It’s important to have a fairly decent soldering iron for this because the LED star, and the heatsink to which it is now connected, is going try its best to suck all the heat from your iron. I had mine set around 425 - 450 °C. Using flux here seemed vital. When one string was done, I moved on to the next. I tried matching up the colored LEDs to the same colored wire for ease of identification later.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169049063696/picture)

I should also mention that it’s a good idea to thoroughly test your connections to make sure everything is hooked up properly. I did this using two AA batteries connected together in series and some test leads, testing them 2 LEDs at a time (the 1st and 2nd in series, then the 2nd and 3rd, the 3rd and 4th, and so on).

Next, I will show you how I constructed my hood from some scrap wood and how the heatsink is mounted in it.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 03, 2011, 11:27:02 PM
STEP 5: From Wood to Hood

My aquarium and stand was by no means a bargain. I paid way too much for what I got, and the quality is very lacking, as you probably already surmised from the pictures in my first post (the stock hood should have given this away). And the stand is made out of some cheap pine wood. But working with what I have, I wanted to make the hood match the stand. This was going to work out well since my dad had a surplus of scrap pine wood planks just sitting in his garage collecting dust. He said if I wanted them, they were mine. And last I checked, free is generally better than having to pay.

Tools & Materials Utilized in Hood Construction:
     Pine Wood
     Table Saw
     Double Bevel Compound Miter Saw
     Saber Saw
     Hole Saws
     Table Belt Sander (Oscillating)
     Drill Press
     Hand Held Cordless Drill
     Various Drill Bits
     Counter Sink Drill Bit
     Wood Glue
     Wood Screws
     Screwdrivers
     Vice Grips
     Hammer
     Router
     Orbital Sander with Various Grits of Sandpaper (60 – 320)
     Wood Stain (Various Colors)
     Polyurethane
     Paint Brush
     Stainless Steel Screws
     Squares
     Tape Measure
     Quick-Grip Clamps
     Cardboard for template
     Protractor

Before I show you some pictures of the hood construction, I suppose I should show you the mounting brackets I made for the heatsink. They are made from 1/16” thick Aluminum Angle. I simply cut them to size using a Miter Saw (and filed off the burs) then bent them using a vice and hammer. I then drilled some holes in them to mount them to both the hood and the heatsink. They are connected to the heatsink using some small nuts, lock washers, flat washers, and bolts. The brackets are also adjustable, being able to slide back and forth:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168975730370/picture)

Here’s a shot of initially lining up some pieces before gluing and screwing them into place. Before I did that, I had to make sure the heatsink was going to fit (It is connected to the hood using some washers and wood screws). You can see the assembly sitting around a cardboard template I made of the top of my aquarium (also notice some notches cut out of the template; that is for some of the aquarium plumbing):
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168665730401/picture)

(https://graph.facebook.com/676168709063730/picture)

And Here’s a shot of a cross brace that doubles as a support for the main lid to the heatsink and the lid to the tank. You might also notice I cut some holes out of the back for the plumbing, as well as completed some other miscellaneous woodwork (some extra pieces and some sanding, etc.)
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168732397061/picture)

And here’s a shot with the front lid in place. I must say, making all these compound angle cuts was no picnic:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168752397059/picture)

It turned out, however, that not all the pine I acquired was the same age. Some of it had been around for over 30 years, and other pieces were cut within the past year or so. Coloration from one piece to the next was hardly uniform. Making them match was going to be a challenge. This required mixing various stains together and some trial and error. In the end, the match was fairly close (I didn’t want to make it look “too good,” because remember, I want it to match the stand). The main difference however is the stand has a satin finish; I decided to finish the hood in semi-gloss polyurethane because it offers better water resistance.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168762397058/picture)

The next post will be quick, just covering some of the details of the hood not included in this post. I’m sure some of you might be wondering what that thing is that looks like a miniature toilet in the back of the hood. Don’t worry, I’ll get to that too.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 03, 2011, 11:28:15 PM
STEP 6: Accessorizing the Hood

The hood needed plenty of more work if it was going to be functional. This included drilling and cutting various holes for input/output plugs and air vents, waterproofing it, and also making a cover for the main opening.

Tools & Materials Utilized in Hood Fixtures:
     Table Saw
     Miter Saw
     Drill Press
     Various Drill Bits
     Hole Saws
     Orbital Sander (and various grits of sandpaper)
     Aluminum Vents
     Self-Etching Primer
     Black Spray Paint
     Clear Coat
     Acrylic (Black & Clear)
     Heat Gun
     MAPP Welder
     Weld-On #4 and Weld-On #16
     Syringe
     Router
     Weather Stripping
     RCA Connectors
     5 Min Epoxy
     IEC320 C14 Inlet Male Power Plug
     120mm Fan Dust Guards w/ Screws
     Phillips Screwdriver
     Wood Chisels
     Metal Files

There are five of these vents located in strategic points along the hood. They are made out of aluminum. After sanding and cleaning, I sprayed them with a few light coats of a self-etching primer, followed by a few coats of a semi-glossy black spray paint, and finished them off with a clear coat. After cutting the holes (and using a router to make a lip), I glued them in place. I located them at the extremes of the heatsink so outside air will be drawn in across the fins toward the center of the heatsink and expelled out the top of the hood by two 120mm PWM fans.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168842397050/picture)

There are also some breather holes I drilled that line up with vents that are in the power supply (which I will cover in more detail when I post about the electronics). These are not pictured.

But here’s a picture of the main lid for the hood. It’s made from black acrylic, and has two filter vents installed directly above the fans that sit on the heatsink. They double over as handles for the lid. Is it a coincidence that if you rotate the lid 180° that it mysteriously becomes superman’s logo? I’ll let you decide.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168872397047/picture)

(https://graph.facebook.com/676168899063711/picture)

This next picture shows the AC power input plug with on/off switch. Also pictured is an input/output panel for controlling the sump light (and its 60mm PWM cooling fan) and for reading the sump light’s temperature. Moreover it outputs signals to a DIY wave maker that I will detail in a later post. This panel is constructed out of a piece of acrylic, some RCA connectors, and is held in place by 5 min. epoxy (This is the back corner which is against the wall, so I didn’t bother making it look that great, or even waste time in trying to hide screws). At the bottom of the hood you can see the cutout for the overflow pipe and return plumbing, etc.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168929063708/picture)

So how about that toilet looking thing that’s in the back of the hood?
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168945730373/picture)

That is some acrylic I molded into a shape of a toilet that’s glued on to a piece of wood. It is a little funnel for an EHEIM automatic fish feeder. The translucent grey part on the end is a container full of food which rotates on a user defined schedule. When it rotates, the desired amount of food falls out, goes down the toilet, and flows out to sea.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168962397038/picture)

Finally, this is what protects everything that’s in the hood from being exposed to the salt water. From the bottom view of the hood, you can see that there’s a double layer of weather-stripping affixed along the recessed inner edges. This provides a good seal for the splash guard that gets screwed in.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676168992397035/picture)   (https://graph.facebook.com/676169092397025/picture)

(https://graph.facebook.com/676169035730364/picture)

The splash guard is made from both clear and black acrylic. I made the larger cuts in the acrylic with a table saw, and the smaller ones using a miter saw. Various pieces were then shaped with a heat gun then “glued” together using Weld-On Acrylic Cement. I finished off the edges with a router, and polished them up with a MAPP welder. The screw holes were made using a countersink drill bit. This design not only protects the innards of the hood from the salt water, but also enables accessibility to the tank while providing room for the plumbing. You might even notice the little hole cut out for the fish feeder (I’m hoping that incorporating an automatic feeder doesn’t prove to be a design flaw).

So all I have left to discuss is the sump and sump light, the Wave Maker, and finally the electronics (along with my Arduino sketch). I’m going to save the electronics and programming for last, since I’m sure that’s from where most of the questions will come, and furthermore, I’m not completely finished with that part of the build…
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 03, 2011, 11:28:39 PM
STEP 7: Refugium & Sump Light

This refugium build is to replace the one I made a few years back. The old one was made with really thin and cheap acrylic, so it started to warp and fall apart. I’m going to just gloss over this section. If anyone has any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

Tools & Materials Utilized in Refugium Construction:
     10 Gallon Glass Aquarium
     Acrylic (Clear & Black)
     Weld-On #4
     Syringe
     Aquarium Silicone
     Screen
     Table Saw
     Miter Saw
     Orbital Sander
     MAPP Welder
     Square
     Measuring Tape
     Masking Tape
     Clamps


These pictures were taken before I glued the dividers in place with aquarium grade silicone. They were being held roughly in place with some blue masking tape where they were eventually to be glued with the silicone. There are two boxes I made using the same methods as described in the previous step. The box on the right (in the tank) is where the water enters the fuge from the main tank. I made a little slot for a carbon filter pad that slides into place. I have to say, changing them is a snap (I just don’t like messing around with those pesky carbon socks). The box on the left is the last chamber, and you can see there’s an EHEIM Compact+ 2000 Water Pump in there for the water return.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169075730360/picture)

I made the lid out of acrylic as well. There’s various holes cut out: The one in the upper right hand side is for the intake pipes, The square below that is where the protein skimmer sticks out, To its immediate left is a small lid to access the fuge, The small lid in the upper left is to add more water (someday I will make this automatic), And the notch in the middle left is for the return line. You can also see the mini LED sump light I made concurrently with the main LED build, as well as its stand. It makes it nice for left/right & front/back adjustments. Here’s another shot:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169362396998/picture)

The fuge is currently up and running, but since the hood isn’t finished yet, I cannot power the sump light. Once that part gets finished, I’ll post some updated pictures with the live rock & sand & cheato, etc.

Here’s a quick sequence of pics showing how the mini sump light is constructed. It’s basically made from scrap parts (the part of the heatsink I cut out from the main hood's heatsink, a little bit of leftover acrylic, etc.). Again, I will not go into too much detail here, as it’s essentially a simplified version of the main hood.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169129063688/picture)

I changed the wiring a little bit from what you see above by adding a Molex connector for the 60mm PC fan, as well as changed out the fan itself for a 60 mm PWM PC fan (so 1 additional wire was needed; I did not opt to use the other fan wire that's used to monitor its RPMs). The Red, Green, & Purple wires are for the temp sensor, the black and white are for the LEDs. The holes that are drilled along the sides are air intakes. This next shot should also clarify how I was able to cram everything into such a small casing.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676172172396717/picture)

I made sure to leave some clearance for lenses. I have a bunch of different angled lenses on hand, but as of yet I don’t know what’s going to work best.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169149063686/picture)

And here it is again up on its pedestal:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169225730345/picture)

So that about does it for the Refugium. I will post some updated pics as soon as I get this build completed. My next post will detail my DIY Wave Maker.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 03, 2011, 11:29:09 PM
STEP 8: Wave Maker (Part I)

My Wave Maker design is fairly straightforward. I didn’t bother trying to implement a circuit to ramp up and down the powerhead motors. Instead, I took the “simple” route and decided to use two powerheads, and just alternately turn them on and off. Some of the DIYs I’ve seen (as well as the so called “professional” Wave Makers out there), seem to promote alternating the powerheads at a high frequency (search DIY Wave Maker in YouTube for several examples). The impression I get is that they are trying to accomplish some kind of resonant frequency to get the highest waves possible. In my opinion, this is in stark contrast in comparison to what nature usually does. Whenever you actually see a reef in the wild, ocean waves and currents rarely act like that. Rather, they tend to sway in one direction for a short while, and then eventually go the other way (and repeat). But this back and forth generally doesn’t occur for the same lengths of time, and eventually the back and forth become forth and back. What I’m referring to of course are the tidal currents (Flood & Ebb Tides & Slack Water). So it is my objective to produce these natural oscillating currents known as tidal streams (without the associated rise and fall in water depth). I plan on incorporating the coding from my Moon Phase into the Wave Maker Code to help predict these tides. It is my overall goal to replicate the conditions found in nature’s reefs on a small scale. I should mention however that if high frequency high amplitude waves are your thing, then my DIY Wave Maker with a few changes in the timing can easily accomplish this for you.

I borrowed these two images from Wikipedia to give you an idea of what the tidal schedule will resemble:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169549063646/picture)
(To read more on this and for the reference, here’s an Article on Ocean Tides at Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tide))


Tools & Materials Utilized in Wave Maker Construction:
     Wire Cutters and strippers
     Screw driver
     Soldering Iron
     Multimeter
     Metal Single Gang Output Box
     3/8” Clamp Combination Connector (Wire Nut)
     15 Amp Outlet
     High-Voltage, High-Current Darlington Transistor Array, i.e. ULN2803A
     18-Pin DIP IC Socket (optional)
     Acrylic
     Solid State Relays (KYOTTO AC KB20C06A 280VAC 6A)
     Male 3 Prong Connector
     X2 Capacitors (0.22μF / 270VAC)
     RCA Cables (with Female Connectors)
     Heatshrink Tubing
     Heat Gun
     Zip Tie(s)
     Miscellaneous wire and solder
     5 minute epoxy
     Wire Spade Terminals
     Liquid Electrical Tape
     HYDOR Korialia Evolution Powerheads

When I originally thought about constructing a Wave Maker, I was hesitant because I really didn’t want to use Electromechanical SPDT or DPDT relays. The various hums, vibrations, and splashes from my tank and sump are loud enough, so I definitely wanted to avoid adding relay clicking and clacking to the symphony of aquarium noises. I was starting to lean toward making an overly complicated circuit, but then I found out about Solid State Relays (SSR). I wasn’t even aware of their existence until I stumbled across them while trying to find the right spec’d SPDT relay on one of the websites I use to order electronic parts. After I checked my powerheads’ spec sheet, I determined the current draw, and decided on a SRR rated at 6A (I like overkill). These relays are completely silent. (Here’s a link to the SRR datasheet (http://download.siliconexpert.com/pdfs/2009/5/10/7/48/9/kytec_/manual/kb20.pdf)).

Before I open the picture gallery, I must warn you that I am from the United States, and household wiring is not the same here as it is in the UK. In US household wiring, typically the green wire is ground, the white wire is return, and the black wire carries the power. Also, in the US the power supplied to households is 110-120V at 60Hz. If you’re from the UK however, all is not lost. The relays I’m using are rated up to 280VAC. You might want to check the datasheet on the ULN2803A (http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/34315.pdf) (and use a different Darlington transistor if necessary – although I’m fairly certain this will work out fine), and you’ll of course have to use different outlets…

I think my pictures explain the wiring fairly well, so I won’t bother including a wiring diagram (after all, I didn’t use one). I suppose you can get away with excluding the ULN2803A altogether, but I included it because it is ideally suited for interfacing between low-level logic circuitry from the Arduino and multiple peripheral power loads such as motors and relays. Here’s a diagram of the chip for reference:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169232397011/picture)

So enough with all the talking. The first thing I did (after testing the relays for functionality) was use 5 min epoxy to glue the relays to the back of the outlet. I also cut the tab that connects the “hot” leads (Brass colored screws circled in Green). Doing this separates power to the outlets so I can control each one individually. I then broke off and tossed out the tab indicated by the Red Arrow, as well as his three friends.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169535730314/picture)

After letting the epoxy set for an hour or so, I glued on an 18-Pin DIP IC Socket (Purple Arrow) that is slightly elevated over the relays by wedging (and gluing) a small piece of acrylic in between them. I also bent the pins of the Socket ~90° outward. After letting the epoxy set overnight, I then soldered on each SSR a 0.22μF X2 Capacitor rated at 270VAC (Blue Arrows) across the output (3 and 4 on the SSR). Not only does this provide filtering, it is now in compliance with the EMC Directive. I then began to solder some of the other wires you see.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169279063673/picture)

The DC stuff: The RED wire is soldered on to pin 10 of the DIP Socket and to the optocoupler leads on each of the SRR’s (Red circles). This will supply +5V to the ULN2803A, and also to the SSR’s. The BLUE wire is soldered to the other optocoupler lead on the RIGHT SRR and to any other pin on the RIGHT side of the DIP socket (pins 11-18). The same is done with the LEFT SSR and the PURPLE wire.

That’s pretty close to the post size limit, so I will have to continue this DIY Wave Maker build on the next post.

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 03, 2011, 11:30:18 PM
STEP 8: Wave Maker (Part II)

Next, I attached some colored wires to an RCA Cable, covered the connections in heatshrink tubing, and fed the assembly through a hole in the metal single gang outlet box with two female RCA connectors hanging out the back (Sorry I didn’t include a picture of this). I then used a zip tie to hold the cable firmly against the wall of the outlet box.

And for the rest of the DC stuff, I soldered the RED wire (from the RCA cable) that supplies the +5V to the rest of the RED wires (They are wired in parallel so you can solder it to any of the leads where you see RED wire). Next I soldered the GREEN wire to pin 9 of the DIP Socket. This is the Ground Wire. The PURPLE wire (from the RCA cable) is soldered to the pin directly across from where the other PURPLE wire is soldered. The BLUE wire (from the RCA cable) is also soldered across from the other BLUE wire. The PURPLE wire carries a signal from one of the Arduino's digital pins through the transistor and to the SRR on the left, telling the relay when to allow power to flow through the output. Using a different digital pin on the Arduino, the BLUE wire does the same thing to the other outlet.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169322397002/picture)

The next thing I did was use some type NM-B household wiring for the AC connections. The Grey arrows in the picture below show the “hot” connections. After soldering on these wires, I cut the extra bit of leads off the SRR’s.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169352396999/picture)

Next, I fed the cable from a three-pronged plug through a 3/8” wire nut that I attached to the outlet box (Yellow Arrow). After stripping the cable, I soldered the Power (BLACK) wire to one of the SSR’s output leads (Orange Arrow). These are the ones that are NOT directly connected to the “hot” leads of the outlet (Brass Screws).
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169399063661/picture)

I then attached some spade terminals to the Return (WHITE) and Ground (GREEN) wires of the cable, and screwed them to the corresponding leads on the outlet.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169565730311/picture)

Finally, I tested all the connections using a multimeter. After passing the tests, I slathered on some Liquid Electrical Tape to the exposed electrical connections. After the Liquid Tape dried, I plugged the transistor into the DIP socket, then tucked everything in the outlet box all nice and neat, tightened the wire nut, screwed the outlet to the outlet box, and screwed on the faceplate. I forgot to take a picture of this immediately after the build, but here it is installed on the tank stand. You can see the two RCA inputs hanging out the back and to the right (Recall from an earlier post how I have RCA connectors in the back of the Hood. Yep, you guessed it. That’s where they will get plugged in).
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169489063652/picture)

To test this build, I plugged a lamp into one of the sockets and uploaded the infamous “Blink” Arduino Sketch to my UNO. I then hooked up the RCA connections to the UNO (BLUE & PURPLE wires to Digital Pins, RED wire to 5V, and GREEN wire to GND) and enjoyed an ice cold beer to my brand new strobe light. For good measure & for the sake of science, I then enjoyed another while the lamp was plugged into the other outlet (back to back raves). Epileptics Beware!

I know some of you might be concerned with quickly & repeatedly turning AC motors on and off. However, the powerheads I’m using are Hydor Koralia Evolution 750’s. They are compatible with Hydor’s Wave Maker (and are designed to be used with it), and that is exactly what those particular Wave Makers do – Alternately turns them on and off. The main differences being my Wave Maker is quieter, my Wave Maker incorporates a tidal schedule, and my Wave Maker cost approximately 80% less (cost of Arduino included!). And as a side note, this exact same design can be utilized to turn your other peripherals on/off (Chiller, Heater, Lights, etc). Just figure out how many devices you want to control then make that many outlets. Each ULN2803A Transistor can handle up to 8 separate signals!

So, I hope my DIY Wave Maker build wetted your palate for my upcoming post(s): The Electronics!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: LiquidArts on November 04, 2011, 07:08:52 AM
Very Nice Kev....think i'm gonna have to post pics of a current controller build for a client I have....lol
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 04, 2011, 08:08:09 AM
Think we should start an arduino build thread, this one was a friend from overseas i helped and is his build

Kev

Got a feeling i will be able to order all the remaining parts next week for my build at last
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: ray on November 04, 2011, 09:21:29 AM
that is the dogs nuts looks so neat and tidy  :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: paul k on November 04, 2011, 11:50:31 AM
Great build , would love to be able to do DIY like this . ( wishful thinking )
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 04, 2011, 11:57:17 AM
Led builds now are quite easy as some sellers sell complete kits such as this one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6x3-W-LED-Constant-Current-Driver-Kit-DIY-item-/110726579034?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c7d1835a

Then to make them dim all you need is a pwm drive such as this one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3w-LED-Driver-MBI6651-based-Luxeon-White-Green-Blue-/250924013491?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item3a6c3c97b3

that is the basics to any led build

Kev



Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: LiquidArts on November 08, 2011, 07:15:49 PM
Think we should start an arduino build thread, this one was a friend from overseas i helped and is his build

Kev

Got a feeling i will be able to order all the remaining parts next week for my build at last

Haha,

You read my mind......am working on my last controller now out of the 5 i'm putting together and have been documenting each step.....I have the Main display units done now I need to document the last relay unit which has the pH,ORP,salinity and temp sensor shield.Soon as that is done i'll get to posting...lol
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: wakeyblue on November 08, 2011, 10:15:21 PM
nice thread  chaps
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Zero on November 11, 2011, 12:07:27 PM
Led builds now are quite easy as some sellers sell complete kits such as this one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6x3-W-LED-Constant-Current-Driver-Kit-DIY-item-/110726579034?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c7d1835a

Then to make them dim all you need is a pwm drive such as this one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3w-LED-Driver-MBI6651-based-Luxeon-White-Green-Blue-/250924013491?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item3a6c3c97b3

that is the basics to any led build
 Kev

So are you saying you can turn a non dimming controller into a dim-able one by driving the pwm driver (second Link) with the first driver that you listed?

Zero

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 11, 2011, 05:28:59 PM
Yes if your led build has no dimming feature then you can add the pwm dimmer in line and then rig a 0-5v feed up by variable resistor and a 555 timer or use an arduino build to supply the feed for multiple led dimming channels 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Zero on November 16, 2011, 02:32:36 PM
Thanks for the info :) I received a 5w dimable driver this morning will have a play with it later.

Can we have a parts lists for the electronics section? I would like to check I have everything ready for when you post the next installment :)

How far are you away from posting your sketch?

Regards
               Zero
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 16, 2011, 04:33:48 PM
I have two working sketches

first one uses

atmega 328, nokia 5110 lcd shield and you need to make a proto board costs around £50

second one uses
arduino atmega 1280,  3.2"tft colour touch screen, and a tft with rtc shield around £70

i shall get a thread going on both controllers and we can set up an arduino forum on here

Kev
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Zero on November 16, 2011, 05:04:21 PM
nice one kev.. :)

 Its the second one I'm interested in.. How many channels have you got running on it?

Zero
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 16, 2011, 05:19:18 PM
think theres six at the min but i have not even got it wired in to the leds yet
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Zero on November 17, 2011, 01:00:22 PM
Cool six channels is what I'm looking for..

Hope you manage to get your led's connected soon  :)

If you can post your sketches in other thread that would be sweet..

Zero
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 09, 2011, 06:18:03 AM
I guess it's high time I chime in and update this thread.  Afterall, this is my build...The following 4 posts are what I wrote on another site, and reflect what I have accomplished thus far, picking up from the last build post tangtastic copied over here for me (STEP 8: WaveMaker, Part II (http://ukreefs.com/index.php?topic=117.msg684#msg684)).  I hope you're all enjoying my sweat and tears...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 09, 2011, 06:24:34 AM
Although this post is specifically directed at Neil, I think anyone interested in a Lunar Cycle program might appreciate this.

Neil, I was going over your Lunar Phase portion of your code and decided to try it out. I noticed that while the phase seems to be correct, the Julian Day is off by more than 2.4 million days! I can’t seem to determine where it’s going wrong, nor do I care to spend any more time debugging it, but I can tell you that something’s definitely not right. However, I offer you this alternative I’ve been working on. I haven’t had a chance to vigorously test it, but it seems to be working fine, and the Julian Day is spot on. I wrote it so the changes in between the phases are smooth, rather than going in 25% illumination increments. Also, I noticed you had several lines of code devoted to the DS1307 real time clock. Why not just use the DS1307 library? I’m attaching your Lunar Phase code (which I altered to work with the DS1307 library) in case you want to slim down your code. I am also posting (and attaching) the code I wrote if you decide to abandon yours and want to integrate mine into your existing controller. The .zip files for the sketches and library are attached at the bottom of this post.
 
Code: [Select]
//Written by TheDOdblG, modified version of NightAtTheOpera's Lunar Phase

************* Libraries *************/
 #include <ITDB02_Touch.h> //Included because my RTC is on this shield
 #include <Wire.h>
 #include <DS1307.h>
 
/********** Global Variables **********/
 int rtc[7];
 float LC = 29.53059; //1 Lunar Cycle = 29.53059 days
 String LP; //Lunar Phase - variable used to print out Moon Phase
 
//******** Lunar Phase Function *******/
float moonPhase(int moonYear, int moonMonth, int moonDay)
 {
  float phase;
  double AG, IP;
  long YY, MM, K1, K2, K3, JulianDay;
  YY = moonYear - floor((12 - moonMonth) / 10);
  MM = moonMonth + 9;
  if (MM >= 12)
    { MM = MM - 12; }
  K1 = floor(365.25 * (YY + 4712));
  K2 = floor(30.6 * MM + 0.5);
  K3 = floor(floor((YY / 100) + 49) * 0.75) - 38;
  JulianDay = K1 + K2 + moonDay + 59;
  if (JulianDay > 2299160)
    { JulianDay = JulianDay - K3; }
  IP = MyNormalize((JulianDay - 2451550.1) / LC);
  AG = IP*LC;
  phase = 0;

  Serial.println("");
  Serial.print("The Julian day is:");
  Serial.println(JulianDay);

  //Determine the Moon Illumination %
  if ((AG >= 0) && (AG <= LC/2)) //FROM New Moon 0% TO Full Moon 100%
    { phase = (2*AG)/LC; }
  if ((AG > LC/2) && (AG <= LC)) //FROM Full Moon 100% TO New Moon 0%
    { phase = 2*(LC-AG)/LC; }

  //Determine the Lunar Phase
  if ((AG >= 0) && (AG <= 1.85)) //New Moon; ~0-12.5% illuminated
    { LP = "New Moon"; }
  if ((AG > 1.85) && (AG <= 5.54)) //New Crescent; ~12.5-37.5% illuminated
    { LP = "Waxing Crescent"; }
  if ((AG > 5.54) && (AG <= 9.23)) //First Quarter; ~37.5-62.5% illuminated
    { LP = "First Quarter"; }
  if ((AG > 9.23) && (AG <= 12.92)) //Waxing Gibbous; ~62.5-87.5% illuminated
    { LP = "Waxing Gibbous"; }
  if ((AG > 12.92) && (AG <= 16.61)) //Full Moon; ~87.5-100-87.5% illuminated
    { LP = "Full Moon"; }
  if ((AG > 16.61) && (AG <= 20.30)) //Waning Gibbous; ~87.5-62.5% illuminated
    { LP = "Waning Gibbous"; }
  if ((AG > 20.30) && (AG <= 23.99)) //Last Quarter; ~62.5-37.5% illuminated
    { LP = "Last Quarter"; }
  if ((AG > 23.99) && (AG <= 27.68)) //Old Crescent; ~37.5-12.5% illuminated
    { LP = "Waning Crescent"; }
  if ((AG >= 27.68) && (AG <= LC)) //New Moon; ~12.5-0% illuminated
    { LP = "New Moon"; }

return phase;
}
 
/******* Normalization Function *******/
 double MyNormalize(double v)
{
  v = v - floor(v);
  if (v < 0)
  v = v + 1;
  return v;
}

/************* Setup Loop *************/
void setup()
{
  Serial.begin(9600);
  RTC.get(rtc,true);
}
 
/********* Main Program Loop **********/
 void loop(void)
{
  //Prints out some information about the Lunar Cycle
  Serial.println("****************************************");
  //Print the Time
  RTC.get(rtc,true);
  Serial.print(rtc[2], DEC);
  Serial.print(":");
  Serial.print(rtc[1], DEC);
  Serial.print(":");
  Serial.print(rtc[0], DEC);
  Serial.print(" ");
  Serial.print(rtc[4], DEC);
  Serial.print("/");
  Serial.print(rtc[5], DEC);
  Serial.print("/");
  Serial.print(rtc[6], DEC);
  //Print the Lunar Cycle
  float lunarCycle = moonPhase(rtc[6], rtc[5], rtc[4]); //get a value for the lunar cycle
  Serial.print("Moon Illumination: ");
  Serial.print(lunarCycle*100);
  Serial.println(" %");
  Serial.print("Lunar phase: ");
  Serial.println(LP);
  Serial.println(" ");

  delay(5000);
 }


It shouldn’t be too much longer before I get back on track and start posting on the Electronics Portion…
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 09, 2011, 06:32:00 AM
I just noticed that the code I provided for the Lunar Phase had a slight error in it. When I was rushing to get it posted, I must have duplicated the algorithm for decreasing illumination with increasing illumination. I edited the lunar phase post to reflect the corrected version. I also replaced the file “My_Moon.zip” with this correction.

I decided to test out my algorithm a bit more to make sure it was functioning as expected. I compared the results with StarDate.org’s lunar calendar (http://stardate.org/nightsky/moon):
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169595730308/picture)

I plotted out the results from my algorithm for these months, and it appears to be spot on:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169555730312/picture)

As you can see, the resulting trend is a triangular wave. The reason why it is not more sinusoidal is because this lunar function just takes the % of Full Moon once a day, as opposed to continually updating the percent of illumination. If this is not close enough to the real thing for you, feel free to modify this code to include hours, minutes, and seconds…
 
And I’m still waiting on some parts from China, so once I get them I’ll start on the electronics section.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 09, 2011, 06:50:33 AM
STEP 9: THE AQUARIUM LCD CONTROLLER (Part I)
 
I was going to save this section for last, but since I don’t have the electronics portion completely finished (still waiting on one last part from the orient), I figured I get this section up and running. This has been a long time coming. The following pictures are from the controller I programmed, tested, and debugged. I still have to perform some more minor testing / debugging, but it shouldn’t be too much longer before I release it. If you want it sooner, you may be able to convince me to email you a copy….

The main code is based off of Stilo (http://code.google.com/p/stilo/updates/list), although if you look at the code, you will hardly find any resemblance. Even the libraries are different/updated. I completely overhauled the original sketch, and added several more functions. I tried to make it more user-friendly as well. The program itself is now huge, virtually filling up an entire Arduino MEGA 1280.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169602396974/picture)

It took a lot of work to get it to fit onto this version of the MEGA. I have another version of the sketch with better graphics of the lunar phases and a few more functions I’ve been working on that takes up a good portion of the Arduino MEGA 2560. At any rate, I present to you THE JARDUINO AQUARIUM CONTROLLER:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169639063637/picture)
As you can see, the MAIN SCREEN displays each LED color’s current percent output. Also included is the Lunar Phase complete with a picture of the current phase, a description of said phase, and the current percentage of a Full Moon. Under the MONITORS & ALERTS section, I monitor the water temperature, and the temps of the Main Hood and the Sump LED fixture. Alerts will also flash and change colors, etc if/when the temperatures go outside of user defined ranges. As seen in the picture above, no temp sensors are hooked up, hence the Error message (instead of a false temp reading). You may also notice the status bar I placed at the bottom of the screen. This will carry out to all the other pages and is fully functional on each subsequent page. Another thing I may do is throw in pH and Salinity readouts for the MEGA 2560 version. It would certainly be easy enough....
 
Anyway, touching anywhere on the MAIN SCREEN will bring you to the MAIN MENU:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169769063624/picture)

Going a little out of order here, I’m going to start with the General Settings menu:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169732396961/picture)
This menu allows you to choose from the options above. The buttons for your preferences are in green. I started by showing this menu first because as I present the other options, I have changed some of the settings along the way so you can see how each choice will carry over to the other menus and the Time and Date bar.
 
The Time and Date option brings up this screen:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169665730301/picture)

Or for my overseas friends:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169689063632/picture)

The H2O Temp Control option is for setting your desired water temperature, and also allows you to set offsets to turn on and off heaters and/or chillers, and also an audio alarm:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169725730295/picture)
This simply says that if the temperature goes 2 degress above 79 degress F, it will turn on a chiller. If it goes below by 2 degrees a heater will kick on. +/- 3.5 degrees and an alarm will sound. This alarm will also flash on the MAIN SCREEN and turn the temperature readout from green to blue for too cold or red for too hot.
 
Once again in a different format:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169755730292/picture)

Next up is the WaveMaker options screen. There are several sub-menus for this particular option. This is what it looks like when you first enter the WaveMaker:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169875730280/picture)
Selecting the Alternating Mode from above, you then get this screen:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169802396954/picture)
From which you can the set how long each power head will be on before switching to the other. I set it up so you can test your settings directly from this screen. Pressing the TEST button will turn it green, and the power heads will run according to the time you set. If you like it, you can save it to EEPROM (Arduino’s memory). After saving this, and going back to the main WaveMaker screen, you now see the following:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169905730277/picture)

Selecting Synchronous Mode brings up this screen:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169835730284/picture)

Selecting Constantly ON will give you this:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169872396947/picture)

And selecting the Pulsating Mode option will give you to this page, allowing you to set how long the Powerheads will be ON and OFF:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170039063597/picture)
Setting up this page is pretty much the same as setting up the Alternating Mode from above.
 
And back to the main WaveMaker screen, if you select Feeding Mode, you will see this message along with a countdown.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169899063611/picture)

Or pressing the Turn Pumps OFF button you'll get:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170095730258/picture)
Pressing CANCEL or BACK will also resume the saved wave mode.
 
The other MAIN MENU options will be covered next (Had to break it up into parts because it’s just too large).
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 09, 2011, 07:07:33 AM
STEP 9: THE AQUARIUM LCD CONTROLLER (Part II)

Next up on the MAIN MENU / CHOOSE OPTIONS screen we have the LED Testing button. Pressing it will give you more choices:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169935730274/picture)

For those familiar with the Stilo sketch, pressing the Test LED Array Output will provide you with a dash of nostalgia.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169982396936/picture)
Of course it has been altered quite a bit from the original, but still maintains the same functionality. That is, it runs through the entire day quickly from midnight on. In other words, this allows you to watch your lighting change intensities in fast-foward.

Speaking of Nostalgia, I have to admit that making the switch from Krusduino to Stilo made me miss one thing in particular: the ability to individually test each LED color. It is extremely handy getting values from 0-255 for each LED color when trying to determine the correct color mixes for your tank. For five colors, it seems vital! So I decided to make a function (actually several) to perform this JARDUINO style, and Control Individual LEDs:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170022396932/picture)

I went ahead and entered different values for each choice. This is when I made the Royal Blue selection:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170079063593/picture)
You may have noticed that the “Widget” changes both title and color when you press you color selection. I made it so the numbers roll over so you can easily go to virtually any value quickly. The color buttons display the color value from 0 to 255, and the graph displays this as percent output. Pressing the BACK button will resume the normal operation of the lights.

Back to the CHOOSE OPTIONS screen, selecting the Change LED Values will take you to this menu:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170149063586/picture)

Selecting any of the Colors or the Sump button will then take you to another one of the modified Stilo pages:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170245730243/picture)
Pressing the MORE COLORS button will allow you to select from the other colors, pressing the CHANGE button will allow you to change the value for each time frame (15 minute intervals). Below I selected the intervals from 6-7PM:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170112396923/picture)
So you can make educated guesses as to the outputs that will work best for you and your tank, or better, you can use numbers you got from the LED testing page from earlier. Pressing OK will take you back a page with your new values. Pressing SAVE will write these values to the EEPROM, ready to resume your choices after recovering from a power failure.

Back to the Change LED Values screen, choosing the Lunar button will take you to this screen:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170135730254/picture)
Here you can set the maximum brightness of your Moonlights (How bright it will be when it’s a full moon). This I made different from the other colors because I didn’t want / need it to change throughout the day; just once a day.

Next on the CHOOSE OPTIONS screen you will see the Automatic Feeder option. This is another menu that has several different choices:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170169063584/picture)
This is what it looks like without any feeding times saved.

Selecting Feeding Time 1, you will see this screen (I have selected 24HR and MTH, DD, YYYY formats in the General Settings):
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170289063572/picture)
So after setting the time, you then decide if you want it ON or OFF. I went ahead and selected the red button to turn it ON:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170225730245/picture)
Next I pressed the SAVE button, which then brought us back to the previous screen (I went ahead and changed the time format back to 12HR):
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170259063575/picture)

Here I am setting up some more feeds:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170375730230/picture)

And another shot of the previous screen with additional times saved:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170279063573/picture)

So that red-violet Feed Fish Now! Button in the center should be self-explanatory, here it is in action:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170322396902/picture)
It stays green for a few seconds before going back to the red-violet color. If you like, you can have the powerheads shut off automatically for 5 minutes during the feeding times and when you press the Feed Fish Now! button. This can easily be programmed by selecting it in the General Settings page. You could alternatively suspend the powerheads by turning them off in the WaveMaker page.

Next up isn’t a menu selection per se, but if you recall from the General Settings, you could turn a screen saver ON or OFF. From the ardunuino sketch, you can have this set to have the screen go black after a user-defined length of inactivity. Also from the sketch, you have another choice: instead of a black screen, you can have a digital clock (which will display according to your preferences of course). With the Digital Clock screensaver and 30 minutes chosen, I uploaded the sketch and turned the Screensaver to ON. This is what you’ll see after ½ an hour and will continue to see until you press the screen or an alarm goes off:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170365730231/picture)
Pressing the screen will immediately bring you back to the MAIN SCREEN of the JARDUINO.
 
Finally, the About button is purely informational:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170395730228/picture)
Obligatory thanks to the Wife for allowing me the huge amounts of patience, time, and understanding to complete this project! (actually not complete yet, but soooooo close!)

So that’s pretty much it for the LED Controller section for now ;-) Stay tuned for the last section: ELECTRONICS
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on December 09, 2011, 11:04:31 AM
Wow thats a great improvement on the original, no need for the tank you

Would like to upload that on to mine if you still have my mail address

 :c017:

Kev

 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: simonwbrown on January 31, 2012, 11:26:07 AM
 :c029: didnt understand most of it but  :c029:
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dono on February 26, 2012, 03:13:56 PM
Watching really close for an update.. Anytime soon maybe? Cos this is such and awesome thread.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on March 01, 2012, 08:46:03 PM
Yes, I have the updates up and running at the other site.  Cheers!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on March 01, 2012, 08:47:59 PM
Get it copied across Jamie

Kev

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on March 03, 2012, 07:38:05 AM
Jamies update

STEP 10: ELECTRONICS (Part Ia)

I planned on presenting the electronics in STEP 9, and although I have the electronics as being one of the last steps of my build, it was actually considered from the very beginning, and pretty much along each step throughout the build. The electronics heavily influenced the woodwork, and especially the layout of the hood’s interior, while also influencing the acrylic work and the ventilation designs. Knowing the size and function of each electronic component was vital. For example, the physical size of the power supply required precise cuts to the heatsink, as should be clear from earlier posts. Imagine completing the build to the point of installing the power supply (PSU) just to realize you need to take it all apart to make some cuts! Or what if you made the cuts, later to find out that the PSU you got doesn’t meet your power requirements? Obviously this would be a problem since different PSU's don't necessarily have the same dimensions. Another case in point, the size and movement of the automatic feeder. This was a major factor in determining the height of the hood. Consider if I made the hood just a 1/4 inch shorter? It would have been almost impossible to squeeze the feeder in. These points illustrate well the importance of planning ahead while revealing the fact that everything in this project affects everything else in one way or another. In many ways, this build was a gigantic jigsaw puzzle.


General Tools & Materials Utilized in Electronics:
     Wire Cutters and wire strippers
     Wires of various gauges and colors (Both Solid and Stranded core)
     Screw driver(s)
     Cordless Drill (primarily used to twist wires together)
     Drill Bits and Counter Sinks
     Wood Screws (Stainless Steel)
     Nylon Stand-offs (w/ nylon screws and nuts)
     Soldering Iron
     De-SolderingTool (aka Solder Sucker) – This is for the inevitable mistakes
     Flux
     60/40 Light Duty Rosin Core Solder
     Multimeter
     Breadboard (For Testing)
     Jumper Wires (For Testing)
     AA Battery LED Tester (Two AA Batteries in Series)
     Antistatic Wrist Strap
     The Various Electronic Components I will list as I cover each section
     Whatever Else I forgot

As you all should well know by now, the JARDUINO AQUARIUM CONTROLLER is an Arduino based controller capable of dynamically controlling LEDs, fans, and powerheads, as well as controlling a heater, a chiller, an alarm and a feeder. It’s also capable of being expanded with relative ease. The electronics and main accessories are diagrammatically depicted below. I left out the Wave Maker power outlet in the diagram since I already covered it in STEP 8 Wave Maker (Part I (http://ukreefs.com/index.php?topic=117.msg683#msg683) & Part II (http://ukreefs.com/index.php?topic=117.msg684#msg684)), but just know it gets hooked up to one of the PROTO shields which I will show in a bit. I must comment that it was a complete PITA drawing this up, as during the build I pretty much went off of “diagrams” in my head, and some ideas I scribbled down on scrap paper. Nonetheless, I hope you can easily follow this basic layout which I made a few months after the fact. Oh the things I do for you guys…
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170489063552/picture)

Since this project is centered around Arduino (http://www.arduino.cc/), an open-source hardware electronics prototyping platform, I suppose it would be good to start with the board(s) I used. I originally started this project utilizing the Arduino MEGA 1280, but as the project grew I realized that I was going to need more memory. I therefore stepped up to the Arduino MEGA 2560 (http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMega2560) which has 54 digital input/output pins (of which 15 can be used as Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) outputs), 16 analog inputs, 4 UARTs (hardware serial ports), a16 MHz crystal oscillator, flash memory totaling 256 KB of which 8 KB used by bootloader, SRAM of 8 KB, and EEPROM of 4 KB to name a few of the more relevant specs. I should mention that the Arduino in this form is generally used for prototyping, and stacking prototyping boards together are not necessarily intended for permanent use (although many people including myself oftentimes do just that). Ideally, once your prototype is complete (as mine essentially is), the next step would be to design and etch your own board with an ATMEGA chip integrated. It would certainly allow for a much smaller footprint and probably run more efficiently, as well as make it much more marketable, but I’m not sure if I will ever take this next step. Maybe if the demand is large enough… At any rate, the Arduino MEGA 2560 is the brains of my aquarium hood.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170425730225/picture)

And this is the Arduino mounted to a piece of plastic that fits snuggly in my hood. It will serve as the base, and the other boards will get “stacked” on top of it.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170462396888/picture)

So what gets connected / stacked on this bad boy you ask? Well, there are a number of boards (as indicated in the diagram with solid green arrows). For interfacing all the accessories and what not to the Arduino, I used two Arduino MEGA Prototyping Shields from DF Robot (DFR0016) (http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=60). In the diagram they are labeled “PROTO 1” and “PROTO 2.” Now you could certainly use any shields you like, there are undoubtedly many choices. You could even make your own “shield” out of some perf board OR even go as far as using no shield at all, but the price on these particular shields was right and the amount of prototyping real estate these guys offer is maximized, so for me the choice was clear. And to reiterate a point I’ve made a few times already, I’m not promoting any particular products; I’m simply stating what I utilized in my build’s construction. Here’s a stock photo of an unassembled shield:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170479063553/picture)

Like I already hinted, they are primarily used to hookup the accessories and sensors via various connectors. The boards also serve as 12V and 5V DC powerhubs. Also, they hold a few simple circuits that aid in controlling the pulse width modulated (PWM) fans, the automatic feeder, and provide some space for the alarm. I should also note that after running the LEDs for a few months, I discovered that the effect the hood has on my tank’s water temperature is virtually non-existent (The hottest I’ve ever seen the heatsink get was around 90 °F (32.2°C), so yeah, cool to the touch). This is in stark contrast to the heat produced by metal halides, as you could easily cook an egg on them, or more appropriately fry a fish. Further, ventilation in the hood also prevents any generated heat from affecting the water temperature, as minimal as it is. I therefore decided that running a chiller wasn’t going to be necessary, and controlling the heater wasn’t needed either as I upgraded my heater to one that already does this (Fluval “E” Series).
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170495730218/picture)

I suppose that hooking this automated heater to my aquarium controller would act as a secondary safeguard, but that would be overkill IMO, and I’m sure you guys know by now how I feel about overkill! Ok, so maybe I will add this in later…

Given the efficiency of my heatsinks, I wonder if even the fans are necessary... At any rate, the programming to control heaters and chillers is still there, and hookup would be a cinch, but I just wanted you to be aware that I left out these features in my hardware. If you need help in interfacing these features, let me know. HINT: (http://ukreefs.com/index.php?topic=117.msg684#msg684) it is exactly the same as hooking up the Wave Maker (with the exception of using different digital pins as defined in the Arduino sketch). Following are some pics of my wiring and circuits on PROTO 1 (Top View - stacked on Arduino MEGA):
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170589063542/picture)

On the left side, you can see two white connectors, and one black (bottom left circled in blue). The top left white connector circled in green is for the Wave Maker. Two connector pins (through the purple & purple/blue/white wires) are connected to Arduino digital pins 42 & 43 respectively. Two more connector pins are connected to 5 V and Ground (GND). The middle white connector (yellow circle) on the left has 6 pins. One of these pins is connected to Arduino PWM pin 45 which controls the Sump LED box’s PWM fan. Another connector pin joins up with Arduino pin 51, which gets connected to a DS18B20 Temperature Sensor located in the Sump LED Box. You may notice that this wire (green/black/white) also has a 4.7 kΩ resistor that gets connected to Arduino’s 5 V. This is to the immediate right of the blue circle on the right. The circuit surrounded by a dark red square also aids in controlling the Sump fan via a transistor, turning the fan ON/OFF. It is connected to Arduino pin 48. Also, a 12 V line is hooked up to the connector. I will present you a circuit drawing of these shortly. Finally, the black connector (blue circle) is for the input of 12 V and 5 V from the step down converters as depicted in the diagram. This in turn is connected to the red circled standoff connector, which also gets connected to PROTO 2 via the standoff, passing along those voltages.

At this point, some of you may be wondering where I got these various connectors. Well I like to be as green as possible, so when tossing out outdated or broken tech, I try to salvage whatever parts I can (resistors, capacitors, diodes, transistors, wires, connectors, you name it). Most of the connectors you see actually came from a broken VCR and an outdated satelliter eceiver. In fact, many of the components I utilized in this project have come from recycled products, even the wood and a lot of the plastic!

PROTO 1 (Bottom View):
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170629063538/picture)

So the three main functions of PROTO 1 are (1) 12 V & 5 V DC power input, (2) interface with the Wave Maker Outlet, and (3) control & supply 12 V power to the Sump LED Box’s fan and monitor its temperature. I will get to (1) later. (2) has already been covered (http://ukreefs.com/index.php?topic=117.msg683#msg683). As for (3), there are two circuits that come in handy. One is for controlling the PWM fan in the Sump LED Box, the other being the "circuit" for the DS18B20 Temperatrue sensor:

PWM Fan Controlling Components:
     BC549CNPN Transistor (I also tested a BD137 NPN Transistor which also worked fine)
     1 kΩ resistor
     IN4001 Diode (for protection)
     60 mm PWM fan
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170619063539/picture)

Going on a bit of a tangent here, I’m making a special note in regards to timing on the Arduino MEGA and PWM pins. Generally, the PWM pins are grouped together in 3’s. For example, pins 6, 7, & 8 run off of the same timer. For the different timers, the default frequencies are the same, but with a little Arduino trickery they can be changed! I think they typically run at 490 Hz by default, but don’t quote me on this. Altering the wrong timer can negatively impact everything you want to accomplish, such as altering the way the millis and delay functions work, so you should use caution when doing so. Throwing caution to the wind, I decided to alter the timer for PWM pins 44, 45, & 46. The reason? We can hear this frequency, especially in a motor such as one running a PWM fan. It can get rather annoyingly loud! So altering the frequency to say 25 kHz or thereabouts should solve this issue, as that particular frequency is outside of our hearing range. As for the fish, who knows? If they can hear it, they haven’t said anything to me. Altering the timer(s) is not done through hardware changes, but rather through coding. With these changes, the PWM fans run whisper quiet. Take a good listen to this:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170655730202/picture)
I told you that you wouldn’t be able to hear it.

Getting back on track, the other circuit is even simpler! It’s for monitoring the Sump LED Box’s temperature.

Temperature Sensor Components:
     DS18B20 Digital Temperature Sensor
     4.7 kΩ resistor
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170639063537/picture)
This circuit gets repeated two more times (these connectors are on PROTO 2). Note that since the DS18B20 is a one-wire device, meaning you can hook up multiple sensors to one wire (and thus one digital pin), there is no need for additional resistors for the multiple sensors. In fact, using additional resistors would change the “effective resistance,” (http://www.regentsprep.org/regents/physics/phys03/bparcir/default.htm) so just use one 4.7 kΩ resistor, regardless of how many sensors you endeavor to deploy (the resistance for this pin will get passed on from PROTO 1 to the others). In case you’re wondering, each sensor has its own unique address, and can be called upon by the Arduino via said addresses. And to clarify, the DS18B20 sensors themselves are located wherever I want to monitor temperatures, NOT on the PROTO boards. The only parts of this circuit on the PROTO boards are the 4.7 kΩ resistor and the connections to 5 V and GND.

While on the subject of temperature sensors, this is how I made the water temperature sensor waterproof:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170662396868/picture)

All I did was take a tiny light bulb, removed the screw contact and filament and the rest of the guts, leaving behind just the glass enclosure. Then I soldered the DS18B20 sensor to an old telephone cable (which had 4 insulated wires twisted together inside, of which I used 3. The fact that the wires are twisted is good, as this has an electronic noise cancelling effect). Next I slathered on some liquid electrical tape to the exposed legs and wires to prevent unintentional contact. After it dried, I tested it for functionality. After passing the tests, I then dumped some thermal paste in the glass bulb (the white stuff in the picture on the right). Next, I inserted the DS18B20 cable assembly until it bottomed out and completely covered the sensor. Finally, I filled up the remaining space in the bulb with Aquarium Grade Silicone and let it dry for a day or so. There’s little to no air inside, and this is a good thing as air is an insulator. Further, since the thermal paste is a heat conductor, it will allow for more accurate readings much faster. It’s completely watertight and its performance is spot on. The other two temperature sensors were assembled identically minus the glass enclosure, thermal paste, and silicone sealant. This is the sensor for the Sump LED box before it was slathered with liquid electrical tape and mounted to the heatsink:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170689063532/picture)

So what’s on PROTO 2? Good question. Let’s start by looking at a picture of it stacked on top of PROTO 1 & the MEGA:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170715730196/picture)

I know, it looks quite busy! Let’s try to clean it up a bit.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170735730194/picture)
Not much of an improvement. Oh well, it’s the best I can do. So the circuit in the dark red box on the right should look familiar. Yep, it’s the ON/OFF control for the PWM Fans, but this time it’s for the two in the main Hood (Arduino digital pin 47). This connects to the connector as indicated by the white arrow, along with PWM pin 44 and 12 VDC. The circuits that are circled in yellow and green are nearly identical to the fan ON/OFF circuits. The only difference being there’s no diode. The one in yellow turns the Alarm (Green Arrow) on and off via Arduino Pin 49. The circuit in the green circle connects to the Automatic Feeder via the black wire that extends from it and off the picture. That is an RCA cable. The feeder gets hooked up to Arduino digital pin 50. I’ll get to how I altered the Feeder so I could hook it up to the Arduino later. The red circle is the 12 V & 5 V inputs from PROTO 1. The Blue arrow at the bottom points at a variable resistor (the value of which I cannot remember, 100 kΩ maybe?). It is to adjust the Alarm’s volume. The Red and Yellow arrows point to Molex connectors that hook up to DS18B20 Temperature Sensors. One measures the Main Hood’s heatsink temperature, the other the aquarium’s water.

The last thing that needs identifying is the connector circled in blue. That connector has eight pins and goes to PROTO 3 (see the diagram). PROTO 3 in turn interfaces with two Power LED Shields  (http://www.chestersgarage.com/new-store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=6) which I will discuss shortly. In the meantime, maybe you can piece together how everything got connected by studying the underside of PROTO 2:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170762396858/picture)

The group of 7 or so parallel wires is hooked up to PWM pins that run to the connector circled in blue (for the LEDs). Missing from this pic is another wire I added later that connects another PWM pin for the Lunar Cycle (PWM pin 13). All these wires run to PROTO 3. PROTO 3 is built on a prototyping board intended for either the Arduino UNO or Duemilanove (Prototyping shield v0.5). Why use that type of proto shield instead of one intended for the MEGA you ask? Well besides the fact that I happened to have a few on hand, this Proto shield gets hooked up to Mark Chester’s Power LED Shield V2s (http://www.chestersgarage.com/new-store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=6), and the Power LED Shields are designed to directly stack with either the UNO or Duemilanove, it only makes sense to use a proto shield intended to work with it. Here’s a pic of the v0.5 unpopulated:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170805730187/picture)

I suppose my connections here are a little unconventional, but they do the trick. This shield isn’t being utilized as a protoboard in the traditional sense; rather it’s being substituted as a big plug (as a means to connect the Arduino and other shields to the Power LED Shields):
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170829063518/picture)

Another important function this shield serves is rerouting pwm pins. I chose Arduino MEGA PWM pins 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, & 13 for my LEDs. The wires on this shield translate them into PWM pins 3, 5, 6, 9, 10, 11 and a modification "pin" (which are the pins available on the Power LED Shield). I also tried to match up the color of the wires to the color of the LEDs where it was possible. Since I couldn't find any moon colored wires laying around, I just went with the color of wire for which I had the most: green. The green wire pictured at the bottom is for controlling the lunar lights. This required a minor modification to the Power LED Shield, which I’ll explain in a bit. The Molex connector gets plugged into PROTO 2 (the blue circle from above). Here are a few pics of the protoboard connected to the Power LED Shields and installed in the hood:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170932396841/picture)

(https://graph.facebook.com/676171095730158/picture)

Well, I have to split PART I into another part.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on March 03, 2012, 07:44:55 AM
STEP 10: ELECTRONICS (Part Ib)
If you haven’t clicked the link(s) to the Power LED Shield (http://www.chestersgarage.com/new-store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=6) yet, you’re probably wondering exactly what it is, the benefits of using them, and its specs. Well, that’s what the link’s for, but I’ll still provide you with the basics. First off, they serve as a conduit in driving the LEDs, of which I utilized two Power LED Shield V2’s (http://www.chestersgarage.com/new-store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=6):
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171162396818/picture)

These shields utilize RECOM Constant Current LED drivers (http://www.recom-international.com/pdf/Innoline/RCD-24.pdf). These drivers come in various specs, and will determine the maximum amount of LEDs you can run per channel. You can see from the picture above that I have drivers with various specs installed. These correlate with the amount of current the LEDs you want to "drive" can handle. The last set of numbers in the RECOM model number indicates this (ie 1.20 means it is capable of 1.20 Amps max drive current). You may also notice from the picture above that I only have 7 Drivers installed. I later installed another RCD-24-0.70 driver on the fourth channel (shield pictured on the right). That one was for the lunar lights I discussed earlier. Here is a diagram of the Power LED Shields:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171042396830/picture)

Group A is a set of Jumpers that help you easily pick which Arduino pin will control what string of LEDs. The “minor modification” I mentioned having to be made was a way to use pin 13, which as you can see isn't an option on the shield (only PWM pins 3, 5, 6, 9, 10 & 11 are available since it was designed around UNO & Duemilanove). Since the PROTO 3 plugs directly into this, I ran a standoff that plugs into CH4’s pins (just the ones circled in red). Also, I removed the shunt on this set of jumpers (contrary to what the picture depicts):
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171115730156/picture)

Group B allows you to choose to run the LEDs via PWM or analog or both. I chose both. In group C, there are 4 variable resistors, allowing you to adjust the amount of current for each Channel and therefore the brightness. The two D Groups are spring terminals that allow you to easily connect the channels to the respective string of LEDs, or to help illustrate this, wires running from Group D to the LEDs on the heatsink, and back to group D as depicted in this updated layout from a much earlier post:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171195730148/picture)

Finally, group E is for the power input. DC voltage is hooked up direct from the Power Supply. You may be telling yourself that it probably wouldn’t be all that difficult to make these shields yourself on some protoboards. I may be inclined to agree with you, however when you deal with a project this large, tedious, and time consuming, it’s nice to sometimes take the easy road. At this point in the project, and given the high quality of the product, pulling the trigger on these shields was a no-brainer.

Now that I led you away from the Arduino MEGA and the two PROTO boards that are stacked on it, I wish to lead you back there momentarily so I can discuss the remaining two boards. One being the LCD Touch Screen Controller, and the other being the shield that interfaces it with the Arduino MEGA. First off, the LCD Touch Screen is a 3.2 inch TFT LCD module with touch panel & SD card cage. The SD card I currently do not use. Here’s a pic:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171225730145/picture)

I purchased the screen from a seller on eBay (electronics_lee (http://go.redirectingat.com/?id=11464X695292&site=reefcentral.co.uk&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fmyworld.ebay.com%2Felectronics_lee%2F%26_trksid%3Dp3984.m1439.l2754&xguid=9f5d9e3a478035cf1498f8fa5e54c9cd&xcreo=0&sref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.reefcentral.co.uk%2Fshowthread.php%2F26598-44-Gallon-Pentagon-Corner-Tank-LED-Hood-DIY-Build-EXTRAS!-(Sump-amp-Wave-Maker-etc)%2Fpage9)). If you plan on replicating my build (or at least the controller part), the screen should have a Himax HX8347-A TFT LCD controller and ADS7843 compatible touch screen controller. While it is possible to use different LCD’s, such as the SSD1289 controller for example, doing so sometimes involves changes to the libraries and requires some amending of the sketch code. If you plan on using my code, make it easier on yourself and get the LCD screen I specified.

The shield I used that interfaces this LCD with the ArduinoMEGA is the ITDB02 Arduino MEGA Shield v1.1 (http://iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=231). This shield also contains a real timeclock circuit (RTC). It is basically comprised of a DS1307 chip and a crystal. A CR2032 Battery will help store the time and date in the event of a power failure. Again, this is a shield you could easily make yourself if you so choose. This is what this shield looks like:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171242396810/picture)

I stacked this shield directly on top of PROTO 2. And since I wanted to mount the screen on the outside of the hood, I had to come up with yet another connector (extension cable). I chose to cut up an HDMI cable since I had a few extra lying around, and there are a lot of wires in them, so they worked perfectly (not as perfect as a 40-Pin HDD IDE cable, but I didn't have any of those handy). I cut the HDMI cable into 3 one foot lengths (there’s enough wires in just 2 lengths, but some of them were un-insulated, so I went with 3). I then stripped down the ends of the wires and soldered them to some connector pins. I did this to both ends of the cable. That's right, after stripping both ends of 40 wires, I had the great pleasure of soldering them all to 80 tiny little pins! Have a look:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171272396807/picture)

I had to test it, obviously:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171312396803/picture)

Test passed! This allowed me to make the following modification to the hood:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171332396801/picture)

Here’s another shot of all the boards stacked together, along with all the connectors in place (sorry for the fuzziness):
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171645730103/picture)

And for good measure, here’s an aerial shot depicting the Arduino stack snuggly packed in its place:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171662396768/picture)

Well, I have to split this post yet again into another section as I have so much more to reaveal but am nearing the character limit for a post. See you all again real soon!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on March 03, 2012, 07:53:50 AM
STEP 10: ELECTRONICS (Part II)

So there are only a few items left to check off of the diagram before I have covered it all. Since I’m feeling a bit hungry after all this typing and especially after trying to retrace my steps taken nearly three months ago, we minus well revisit what was done to modify the automatic feeder. The feeder is an EHEIM 3581 Digital Feeder that I’ve been using for the past several years. After all that time, it still functioned flawlessly. It used to be powered by two AA batteries, and I only had to replace them once after approximately 18 months, so it works quite efficiently. Since I wanted to hide the unit away in the hood, it wouldn’t be as easy to access as I would’ve liked (although it is quite easy to access when you want to). But all the same, for convenience I decided to take the guesswork out of battery replacement, eliminate the need for reprogramming when changing the battery, and easily program feeding times while also being able to manually feed the tank. I thus endeavored to integrate it into my controller. Here is a stock photo of the unit:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171652396769/picture)

Unfortunately, there is no AC/DC adapter plug. This really wasn’t an issue however. After some disassembly, it was fairly easy figuring out what made this thing tic.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171679063433/picture)

My plan was simple: Take power from the 5 V DC Step Down Converter, further lower it to 3V using some diodes, and connect it to the battery terminals.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171732396761/picture)

The power plug is the black one with grey wires. It connects to the perf board, which lowers the voltage to 3 V through the two diodes you can see (sorry I don’t have part numbers / specs for you here, but they look like Zener Diodes). The White RCA connector gets hooked up to the RCA connector pictured earlier on PROTO 2, which is in turn controlled by Arduino digital pin 50 (which actually tells an NPN transistor to send a signal to the feeder). Here’s where I hooked upt he signal connections (the controller board is unscrewed and what you’re seeing is its backside; the connections were made at the two soldering points as indicated by the yellow circle):
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171745730093/picture)

And here are some more pics of it all assembled, prim and proper:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171712396763/picture)   (https://graph.facebook.com/676171775730090/picture)

I already touched up on what LEDs I used in an earlier section, when I covered why and how I determined the number of LEDs I wanted to use, but here it is again. This time however, it is updated and a little more detailed. The chart below lists the maximum current and the typical to maximum voltage ranges for each type of LED. The bottom 2 rows are the LEDs in the Sump LED box. All the currents were limited via the Power LED shield, and will never reach the stated values. This chart simply shows their capabilities.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171765730091/picture)

How do you determine how many LEDs you can run per driver? What way should I hook them up (in parallel or in series)? Mark Chester illustrates this (http://www.chestersgarage.com/reef-aquarium-lighting) (as well as many other useful tips) (http://www.chestersgarage.com/electricity-101) very nice and neat, so I will quote him directly as these questions go outside the scope of this article:

Each RCD-24 driver module can drive up to 9 LEDs. You can put multiple identical strings in parallel for a total of 18, 27 or 36 LEDs on a single channel. But the output of the driver will be divided evenly into each string.

For example, on a 1200 mA driver…
     • 9 LEDs in a string: each LED will get 1200 mA
     • 2 parallel strings of 9 LEDs: each LED will get 600 mA
     • 3 parallel strings of 9 LEDs: each LED will get 400 mA
     • … and so on.

The brightness of each LED will be reduced accordingly with the drop in drive current. Note, however, that LEDs are more efficient at lower drive currents, so the brightness will not drop as fast as the current.

Sticking with 9 LEDs per driver, the Power LED Shield has four RCD-24 drivers on it, for a total of 36 LEDs per Power LED Shield.


Again, for more tips and tricks on figuring this stuff out, I highly suggest reading more of what Mark has to say on this page (http://www.chestersgarage.com/electricity-101) and this one (http://www.chestersgarage.com/reef-aquarium-lighting). Even though I have a degree in this stuff, I couldn’t have said it any better myself. It’s an introductory to the fundamentals of physics, part II, limited to the stuff you should know when doing a project like this. And it’s summed up in a few paragraphs.

Getting back to the point at hand, as outlined in the chart above, I ended up going with 9 LEDs per driver for 4 of the channels in the Main Hood (36 LEDs). On another channel, I went with just 3 LEDs, and for two other channels, I went with 2 LEDs each. And for the Sump (Channel 4, Power LED Shield 2), I went with 5 LEDs total. The LEDs on each channel are wired in series as I wanted the capability of maximizing the brightness (albeit only slightly as Mark states). Let's refer back to the LED layout of the hood heatsink to see how the LEDs are wired.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171195730148/picture)

Next on the diagram is the Power Supply. The choice of power supply depends on the amount of power the hood & various accessories require. I broke it down like this:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171782396756/picture)

Since the LEDs are hooked up in series, the current through each string of LEDs is constant. So by the look of things, the LEDs will draw 8 Amps at most. But this will never be the case since the current is reduced due to the capabilities of the LED drivers utilized, and even further limited via the variable resistors on the Power LED Shields. Also, the SUMP LEDs don’t run at the same time as the daylights, and when they overlap, the intensities are generally low, and therefore a lower current draw. So at most, I estimate the current draw from the LEDs to be around 6.5 A +/- 0.5 A. In actuality (according to measurements),it’s closer to 5 A (due not only to the limits in place, but also to my program’s settings - the values I have chosen for the LEDs). For the Arduino, it would in all likelihood never reach that advertised value, more like half of that at best. The only power being drawn from it is from the temperature sensors. Also, the Hood Fans and the Sump Fans generally don’t run at the same time, and when they do run it’s at a low speed, so the current is usually around either 100 mA or 0 mA. Even at full blast they generally never top 500 mA. Finally, for the feeder, that’s just an estimate. The current the feeder uses to turn the feeding hopper doesn't all come directly from the PSU, but rather from charged capacitors. A good over estimation of the maximum amount of total current draw would be around 7.1 A +/- 1.0 A. I also went off of the highest total voltage rating for a string of LEDs, 33.75 V. For a good / better tutorial on how to pick out an appropriate power supply, I once again refer you to Chester’s Garage (http://www.chestersgarage.com/reef-aquarium-lighting).

Given those requirements (33.75 V * 7.1 A ≈ 240 W), I ended up getting a Mean Well AC/DC Power Supply Single Output 36 Volt, 8.8A (316.8 W), model number SP-36-320 (https://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/2102730.pdf), which leaves me with approximately 20% overhead for additional accesories I may decide to add in the future.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171875730080/picture)

This is where it gets installed in the Hood. It rests on this little piece of acrylic, which insulates it from the heatsink. You can see several holes that have been drilled out of the wood near where the plastic meets the wood. These are for ventilation of the PSU:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171975730070/picture)

And since I could get some DC/DC step down converters dirt cheap (instead of making the circuits myself), and since they are fairly efficient, again I decided to pull the trigger. The two on the left can go from 12V-50V input to 6V-24V / 3A output. The one on the right goes from 12V-50V input to 6V-24V / 3A output. Here’s a picture of the three converters I employed:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171982396736/picture)

I set the converter on the left to output 11 VDC. This converter is dedicated to running the Arduino. The middle one is for the fans, and is set at 12 VDC. The 5 V converter is used in the Feeder, the Alarm, and the three temperature sensors. I didn't use the 5 V reference on the Arduino for these accessories, as I feared possible electronic noise since it is already used for the Wave Maker Outlet. In all likelihood it would have been fine, but that converter I got for free, so why not?

It’s best at the end of strenuous activity to cool down. Coincidentally, the last things from the diagram that hasn't been described yet are the fans. While I did display how they are hooked up and mentioned them here and there in passing, I suppose all I really need to do is tell you what kind of fans I used. For both the Hood and the Sump LED Box, I used Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) fans. I went with PWM fans since the speed can be controlled via the Arduino. I programmed the Jarduino to increase fan speed as the heatsinks get hotter, and slow down or stop altogether if the temperature is low enough. In addition to the frequency changes I mentioned earlier, this dynamic cooling further cuts down on audible noise. For the Hood, the two fans I used are Arctic Cooling F12 PWM Fans 120mm.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171952396739/picture)

(https://graph.facebook.com/676172185730049/picture)

Notice the fan on the left has a corner trimmed off. This was done so it would fit in snugly. It's hard to tell from the picture how the fans are actually attached to the heatsink. I used some scrap pieces of aluminum angle that I bent into U shapes that in a way "snap" into the heatsink fins. I drilled a hole in the aluminum U's and screwed them to the fans using the screws the fan manufacturers provided.

The fan for the Sump LED box is made by Dynaeon (TOP MOTOR). It is a 60mm PWM fan, model number DF126025BM.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676172162396718/picture)   (https://graph.facebook.com/676172172396717/picture)


So, that about does it! Hopefully you’ve enjoyed my build as much as I have. I’ll eventually update this thread with pics of the hood over the aquarium as well as some pics of the Sump LED box running over the sump in the next section I post, which shall aptly be labeled: UPDATES. I will also try to get a walkthrough video posted, and find a site to host the code, as it is simply to large to either email or post on this site. Until then, good luck with your builds, and as always - Happy Reefing!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 07, 2012, 03:50:30 PM
Here's my first stab at video editing. I hope you enjoy it! If you do, let me know and/or subscribe to my YouTube channel so you will be the first to know when I release new fish tank videos.

http://www.youtube.com/v/gN4XQHNijxw&feature=player_embedded&fs=1
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on April 07, 2012, 07:20:30 PM
 :c029: This is the most amazing reef project I have seen, absolutely fantastic from start to finish.  :You_Rock_Emoticon:  :bravo_2:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 07, 2012, 07:40:55 PM
 :You_Rock_Emoticon: Thats Great can not wait until the Next release dude great work :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on April 07, 2012, 09:02:24 PM
Nice work Jamie

kev

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on April 08, 2012, 12:59:30 AM
There's just so much i'm impressed with on this project, but as an initial question, how did you mount the lcd screen with a nice bezel around it.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 08, 2012, 02:52:02 AM
There's just so much i'm impressed with on this project, but as an initial question, how did you mount the lcd screen with a nice bezel around it.

Sorry I didn't take any pictures of this.  But being the nice guy that I am, I drew you up a quick picture to help explain what I did.  First on the LCD board, I cut down all the leads sticking out of the LCD screen side with some pliers, and resoldered the connections to make sure there were no fractures resulting from the cuts. 

Next, I took some scrap black plexiglass (left over from the superman logo shaped hood and sump light box), and used a router to leave around 1/16" of an inch of plexi.  Actually, I positioned the router bit by making it flush with the LCD board and the LCD screen flush and resting on the Router plate.  This left approximately 1/16" of plexi material when I was finished.  Before routing, I made a template based off of the screen.  I then made sure the screen fit in the rectangular hole I just routed.  Once it was flush, I cut out the hole for the screen.  The white circles are where I drilled and glued in some nylon standoffs for screws.

This drawing is definately not to scale, just something I quickly whipped up for you.  You can probably see from some of my other photos that the sides of the bevel are wider than the top.  This is to compensate for the LCD shield being off-center on the board, while giving it the appearance of being centered. At any rate, the drawing represents the part of the "bezel" you don't see - the back side.  The Green arrow points at a place where I glued some nylon standoffs for screws that go over the holes in the LCD board.  This is what holds the whole assembly in the hole I cut in the wood of the hood.  So screws go through the wood inside the hood, through the LCD board holes, and into the nylon standoffs.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676172189063382/picture)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on April 08, 2012, 09:59:04 AM
Definitely a real nice guy   :whoo:

Your quality of workmanship is excellent, and then sharing the detail is brilliant.

The bezel makes it look real nice and neat, exactly what i'm after for mine. :c017:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 09, 2012, 01:55:35 AM
As promised, here is the link to my program code - the Jarduino Aquarium Controller - http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/ (http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/). I hope my work has helped you in some way, or inspires you to take on your very own DIY Aquarium project. Please don’t be shy in contacting me if you need any assistance. I’m always glad to help, and look forward to seeing how your projects are progressing! Best Regards - Jamie
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on April 09, 2012, 09:41:44 AM
Good man Jamie

kev

 :You_Rock_Emoticon:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: stevewild31 on April 09, 2012, 03:21:11 PM
Jamie,

 :c029:

As your user name implies, that is the Dog's doo- dars, Very nice bit  of work, thanks for sharing it with us.  :bravo_2:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 09, 2012, 04:18:38 PM
Hi Jamie

PM sent and a big thanks dude for the new code

Will try it tonight
Not got everything in place but hopefully i can get it working
Simon
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 09, 2012, 09:00:24 PM
Hi Jamie

PM sent and a big thanks dude for the new code

Will try it tonight
Not got everything in place but hopefully i can get it working
Simon

Thank you for your contribution!   :You_Rock_Emoticon:  Let me know if you need help personalizing the Jarduino to suit your needs Simon.  I can't wait to see my creation up and running across the world.  So far, the Jarduino has been spotted in the US, UK, Spain, France, South Africa, Brazil, Russia...  I hope people post pics! 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 09, 2012, 09:02:16 PM
A big thanks is in order for all the kind words and Donations! As soon as I get enough funds, I shall begin chipping away at the "Future Developments" section as detailed on the Jarduino Download Page: http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/ (http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/). I'm looking forward to getting the Jarduino working on computers and eventually smart phones. First, I'll need another MEGA 2560, another LCD Shield & ITDB02 Shield, and a couple of different internet Shields to experiment with. Definately will want to go the wireless / WiFi route. As a huge improvement in user friendliness, I'm about to begin re-coding the LED testing and adjustments from the Widget I created to Slider Bars. This shall drastically improve the ease in making changes to your LED values. I'm also considering doing away with the 0-255 options and changing them so it's just 0-100. Any thoughts on this or any other suggestions for improvement are welcomed!

THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR SUPPORT!

Jamie - aka TheDOdblG
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 09, 2012, 09:03:36 PM
no problem Jamie

yes hopefully others will give funds nice to get something back you have put lots of hours into this :)

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 09, 2012, 11:20:18 PM
Well, there's been over 20 downloads of my code thus far, and no complaints.  I'm guessing everyone's able to upload without issue?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 09, 2012, 11:21:51 PM
Hi Jamie

Thanks for the code Getting this error


c:/users/simon.sodit/desktop/arduino/arduino-0022-jarduinopatch/hardware/tools/avr/bin/../lib/gcc/avr/4.3.2/../../../../avr/bin/ld.exe: Jarduino_v1_1.cpp.elf section .text will not fit in region text
c:/users/simon.sodit/desktop/arduino/arduino-0022-jarduinopatch/hardware/tools/avr/bin/../lib/gcc/avr/4.3.2/../../../../avr/bin/ld.exe: region text overflowed by 18912 bytes

had a quick qoogle and going on about the size of the flash ?

lol i was just typing this

lol

SImon
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 10, 2012, 12:08:38 AM
Hi Jamie

Thanks for the code Getting this error


c:/users/simon.sodit/desktop/arduino/arduino-0022-jarduinopatch/hardware/tools/avr/bin/../lib/gcc/avr/4.3.2/../../../../avr/bin/ld.exe: Jarduino_v1_1.cpp.elf section .text will not fit in region text
c:/users/simon.sodit/desktop/arduino/arduino-0022-jarduinopatch/hardware/tools/avr/bin/../lib/gcc/avr/4.3.2/../../../../avr/bin/ld.exe: region text overflowed by 18912 bytes

had a quick qoogle and going on about the size of the flash ?

lol i was just typing this

lol

SImon

Might be something simple.  Make sure that under the patched version of the Arduino I provided, to change the "sketchbook location" to the folder for "arduino-0022-JarduinoPatch." Go to "file" then "preferences" to make this change.  Also, make sure the correct board "Arduino MEGA 2560" is selected under "tools."  Once you do this, close it, and then re-open the Arduino Environment.  And DO NOT update if it the program asks you if you want to.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 10, 2012, 12:11:42 AM
thats the issue

i do not have a Arduino MEGA 2560
i have a Arduino MEGA 1280 bummer
will have to upgrade
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 10, 2012, 12:27:03 AM
thats the issue

i do not have a Arduino MEGA 2560
i have a Arduino MEGA 1280 bummer
will have to upgrade


Good thing you donated!  Since you did, I'll do you a favor and modify the code so it will fit on a 1280.  The only thing I will need to do is modify a few lines and change out the Lunar Phase pictures for ones with less resolution.  They will be pixalated, but it WILL work.  I will email it to you when I'm finished making the mods.  Once you get it, unzip it and simply place it in the same folder the "Jarduino_v1_1" sketch is in.  That is, in the "arduino-0022-JarduinoPatch" folder.  For your case, make sure the board selected is the "Arduino Mega (ATmega1280).  You can upgrade to a 2560 if you feel the Lunar Pics are too small and fuzzy.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 10, 2012, 12:33:53 AM
Jamie you are a star
thanks dude
Was thinking off building one as you can buy the chips and stuff then have a custom board
Thanks again Dude
Simon
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 10, 2012, 12:49:38 AM
Jamie you are a star
thanks dude
Was thinking off building one as you can buy the chips and stuff then have a custom board
Thanks again Dude
Simon

Yes, that's the next logical step.  Getting your own circuit design etched using the Arduino chip as the brains.  I'm not there yet, as I want to make many many more improvements.  Anyway, got the sketch modded for you.  Should be in your inbox.  Let me know how it works.  Cheers - Jamie
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 10, 2012, 01:08:53 AM
Hi Dude

Had to make a slight Mod
ITDB02 myGLCD(38,39,40,41,ITDB32S);

but working spot on Just need to get my temp sensors and stuff

Thanks again Dude
Spot on and wow it looks ace
 :bravo_2:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 10, 2012, 01:50:47 AM
Fantastic. This makes me happy!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 10, 2012, 01:54:39 AM
no problem at all

noticed that the screen saver goes to choose options ?

unless after a bit more time the clock shows?

Will have a look at code and try and figure it out
About time i learnt something lol

Simon
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 10, 2012, 07:24:26 AM
I guess I took for granted that everyone would read the top portion of my sketch.  Around line 60 or so, under the "Legal Disclaimer" section, I have outlined several lines of code I think everyone uploading the sketch should pay close attention to (hint: moving the cursor to anywhere in the sketch will reveal what line of code it is in the bottom left of the Arduino Environment).  What I didn't make clear but probably should have is the need to clear the Arduino's EEPROM prior to uploading my sketch.  Not taking this step will most likely result in buggy/unexpected behavior.  The reason being is values previously stored in the EEPROM are not overwritten when uploadng new sketches.  Therefore, when my program calls for values from the EEPROM, and there's a value that isn't supposed to be there, then the unexpected happens.  Clearing this will most likely solve any bugs you may initially run across.  Directions on how to clear the memory can be found in my sketch in lines 293-295.

Simon, for you replace 512 with 2048, everyone else use 4096.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 10, 2012, 10:23:48 AM
Will Have a look tonight dude :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 11, 2012, 12:26:54 AM
was just woundering how the heck do i find line 293-295
then i noticed it shows the line number at the bottom lol
just goes to show still learning
works well
well laid out
need to try and figure out how it works
so i can add things but what a great job
on another note
We are all hopefully going to build or all ready have built led systems
I was at reefers tonight and he had a k3 lighting system
these are suppose to be good
anyway the point being it looks like they just use aluminium with leds surface mounted and fans above ?
I suppose this could be done with 3w leds not sure on larger leds
any views on this ?
as its cheaper for say 12mm aluminium
than large heatsinks
also weight is something to consider
Simon
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 11, 2012, 02:29:44 AM
Cheaper?  Sure.  Better?  Most likely No.  You could get away with mounting them on a high temperature pastic or even a piece of wood, but the point of the heatsink is to dissapate the heat.  Excessive heat will shorten the life of the LEDs, and you want to get your money's worth no?  So it's probably better to go with "tried and true."  With proper heat dissapation, there's no reason the LEDs shouldn't last over 10 years.  I think Rapid sells used heatsinks at bargain basement prices.  With my setup, it has never gone over human body temperature.
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dono on April 11, 2012, 05:46:21 PM
Jamie,
 loaded the sketch.. No problems loaded perfect.
Going to definitely donate as soon as I get paid. This deserves some nice cash.. Hope everyone who uses this knows how much has actually gone into it... And donates.. Maybe the wife will then force you to work on more projects..hahah
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 11, 2012, 07:14:31 PM
Jamie,
 loaded the sketch.. No problems loaded perfect.
Going to definitely donate as soon as I get paid. This deserves some nice cash.. Hope everyone who uses this knows how much has actually gone into it... And donates.. Maybe the wife will then force you to work on more projects..hahah

lol like this :)
but a new baby on way so he will be busy for a while :)

enjoy dude i have 4 kids all grown up youngest just gone 16 my son :)
and 3 daughters
and the oldest came home pregnant so now have another to look after
my 3 year old granddaughter
would not change it for the world
:)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 11, 2012, 07:29:08 PM
Hi Jamie,

these came today :)
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j412/bigguyuk/Arduino%20Stuff/20120411_190044.jpg?t=1334168500

plan is possibly with some more

i can turn off pumps and lights ;)

replace or modify the feed section for this
still have to get some shields and other bits
starting to draw up what i want to do
might not use these on the smaller build
but plant to make a 19" rack style switcher box at front of the sump near the top so you do not have to reach in to the back to turn things on and off manual :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 11, 2012, 10:01:39 PM
Jamie,
 loaded the sketch.. No problems loaded perfect.
Going to definitely donate as soon as I get paid. This deserves some nice cash.. Hope everyone who uses this knows how much has actually gone into it... And donates.. Maybe the wife will then force you to work on more projects..hahah

Thank You!  I should have kept track of how many hours I put in to coding.  I'm guessing anywhere from 500-1000.  That's probably a very  conservative estimate. Any way you slice it, everyone who gets my code is getting a tremendous bargain.  There's really nothing available commercially that's this powerful, dynamic, and just plain cool IMO.  Once I get enough development cash together, I will begin working on getting the Jarduino connected to the internet so you can control and monitor from anywhere.  And I will allow beta testing this time to ALL my donors, so they will get access to my future realeases months in advance.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 11, 2012, 10:10:06 PM
Hi Jamie,

these came today :)
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j412/bigguyuk/Arduino%20Stuff/20120411_190044.jpg?t=1334168500

plan is possibly with some more

i can turn off pumps and lights ;)

replace or modify the feed section for this
still have to get some shields and other bits
starting to draw up what i want to do
might not use these on the smaller build
but plant to make a 19" rack style switcher box at front of the sump near the top so you do not have to reach in to the back to turn things on and off manual :)

No need to waste those SSRs on the LEDs!  Turning them on/off is easily done via the Arduino.  Those are better suited to control AC devices, such as Pumps, Heaters, Chillers, etc.  The code's already set up to run the aforementioned.  You can easily incorporate those using my design to control my WaveMaker.  I was thinking of including a Automatic Water Changer & Top Off in a future realease, and those would also be perfect.  You can also control more than just one peripherial device with just one SSR.  If you plan on not using the WaveMaker, and just have the capability of turning off the pumps, I would just use 1 for that.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 11, 2012, 10:22:04 PM
was not going to use on the leds
it was for pumps and stuff :)
you read my mind
i will be donating more when i get paid as its one of the best programs i have seen :)
So keep up the good work dude
I still need to get more bits and then can start testing things
How would i wire these up can you point me in the right direction ;)
Thanks again
Simon
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 11, 2012, 10:45:12 PM
was not going to use on the leds
it was for pumps and stuff :)
you read my mind
i will be donating more when i get paid as its one of the best programs i have seen :)
So keep up the good work dude
I still need to get more bits and then can start testing things
How would i wire these up can you point me in the right direction ;)
Thanks again
Simon

Yeah, this post is starting to get farily large.  I have the directions outlined on Page 1 of this Thread: http://ukreefs.com/index.php?topic=117.msg683#msg683 (http://ukreefs.com/index.php?topic=117.msg683#msg683).  Read through "STEP 8: Wave Maker (Part I & Part II)."  It's specifically for US Wiring, but should work equally well for UK since I assume your SSR's are rated up to 240 VAC.  Any links that I point to may not have been correctly copied over from the site I originally posted my build on.  If you need them, here you go -

Sorry budd removed that site
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 11, 2012, 11:09:52 PM
thanks dude will be reading more ;)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on April 12, 2012, 12:32:11 AM
Hopefully my led build is starting to take a wee bit of shape, so on that basis i'm starting to look ahead to what I may need to hook up with the Arduino Mega and Jamies excellent sketch.

I will have the following:

Arduino Mega
3.2tft screen with appropriate shield
Mega screw shield
4 x Arctic F12 PWM fans (IIRC)
Led's and a number of meanwell 60-48P dimmable drivers (supplied as kits)
a couple of moonlight and UV kits from rapid.
temp sensors

Now how the heck do I hook it all together  :confuse: What else do I need to acquire to make it all function:

12v supply for pwm fans
10v supply for dimmable circuits (rating)
associated transistors etc !!!
?
?



Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: svyaz on April 12, 2012, 09:40:18 AM
Drivers mean well 60-48P, you can connect to the Arduino as follows You will still need NNP transistors and resistors 1k  for each driver
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on April 12, 2012, 10:14:27 AM
Drivers mean well 60-48P, you can connect to the Arduino as follows You will still need NNP transistors and resistors 1k  for each driver
Cheers Svyaz, I prob should have put this in my own led thread  :c023: Jamie.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on April 12, 2012, 11:39:37 AM
Hi Jamie!
I am very impressed with your Jarduino project. Just registered, thanks to svyaz who posted links to your project on a Russian forum... Well done, you've done a great job, man! And a big thanks to you, on behalf of everyone, for making this public!

I have been thinking, whether it is possible to add a WiFi_to_UART module to your project, or maybe just a wired ethernet shield, to install a web server on the Arduino and dub all the LCD functionality to it? Do you think there are sufficient resources left in Mega 2560? This will make possible controlling the system not just from the touch screen, but also from a smartphone, or from a remote computer via Internet. Do you think this is doable?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 12, 2012, 05:16:05 PM
Drivers mean well 60-48P, you can connect to the Arduino as follows You will still need NNP transistors and resistors 1k  for each driver

That's a Typo, he means NPN Transistor.  I used BC549CNPN Transitors because that's what I had on hand.  Also, you should make sure your Power Supply / Wall Wart for your fans is rated around 12VDC / 3Amps or so.  The Arctic Cooling F12 PWM Fans are 12 VDC, and rated up to a current of 700 mA each.  The included adapters allow you to easily hook them up in parallel, so 700 mA * 4 fans = 2.8 A.  But I'm thinking you probably want to run your arduino off of the same adapter?  If this is the case, the Arduino requires 9-12 VDC (but can handle some more) and a minimum of 250 mA.  I would go up to 1 A to be safe.  So If you want to run all 4 fans and your Arduino off of 1 DC power supply, then get one rated at least 12V / 4A.  You can go higher with the amperage rating, but keep it at 12 V.

I'm not sure that you need an additional 10V supply to make the "circuits dimmable," but then again I'm not at all familiar with the meanwell drivers.  I know a lot of people use them, so hopefully they will chime in.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 12, 2012, 05:22:18 PM
Hi Jamie!
I am very impressed with your Jarduino project. Just registered, thanks to svyaz who posted links to your project on a Russian forum... Well done, you've done a great job, man! And a big thanks to you, on behalf of everyone, for making this public!

I have been thinking, whether it is possible to add a WiFi_to_UART module to your project, or maybe just a wired ethernet shield, to install a web server on the Arduino and dub all the LCD functionality to it? Do you think there are sufficient resources left in Mega 2560? This will make possible controlling the system not just from the touch screen, but also from a smartphone, or from a remote computer via Internet. Do you think this is doable?

Welcome aboard and thank you for the compliments.  Adding WiFi capabilities and being able to use it anywhere via internet or a smartphone is what I will be working on as soon as I get enough funding to order all the parts.  I listed the upcoming development ideas for the Jarduino on the Download page: http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/ (http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 12, 2012, 05:28:06 PM
...I prob should have put this in my own led thread  :c023: Jamie.

No problem Ian.  Many using the Jarduino will probably also use the meanwell drivers, so this is good info and brings up a good point.  In my code, I listed how to make the code work for those drivers (so they will properly control the LEDs).  See Line 86 of my sketch.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on April 12, 2012, 09:20:59 PM
Drivers mean well 60-48P, you can connect to the Arduino as follows You will still need NNP transistors and resistors 1k  for each driver

That's a Typo, he means NPN Transistor.  I used BC549CNPN Transitors because that's what I had on hand.  Also, you should make sure your Power Supply / Wall Wart for your fans is rated around 12VDC / 3Amps or so.  The Arctic Cooling F12 PWM Fans are 12 VDC, and rated up to a current of 700 mA each.  The included adapters allow you to easily hook them up in parallel, so 700 mA * 4 fans = 2.8 A.  But I'm thinking you probably want to run your arduino off of the same adapter?  If this is the case, the Arduino requires 9-12 VDC (but can handle some more) and a minimum of 250 mA.  I would go up to 1 A to be safe.  So If you want to run all 4 fans and your Arduino off of 1 DC power supply, then get one rated at least 12V / 4A.  You can go higher with the amperage rating, but keep it at 12 V.

I'm not sure that you need an additional 10V supply to make the "circuits dimmable," but then again I'm not at all familiar with the meanwell drivers.  I know a lot of people use them, so hopefully they will chime in.

I hadn't even thought of a single supply for the fans and arduino, found one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-5A-60W-AC-adapter-LCD-Monitor-TV-and-others-/320848245490?pt=UK_Computing_LaptopAccessories_PowerSupplies&hash=item4ab40bb2f2 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-5A-60W-AC-adapter-LCD-Monitor-TV-and-others-/320848245490?pt=UK_Computing_LaptopAccessories_PowerSupplies&hash=item4ab40bb2f2) 12v 5A 60W, will it do the needful.

The meanwells require a voltage on the dimming circuit of up to 10v, so thats another little snippet of info I need to work out.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 12, 2012, 09:38:21 PM
I hadn't even thought of a single supply for the fans and arduino, found one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-5A-60W-AC-adapter-LCD-Monitor-TV-and-others-/320848245490?pt=UK_Computing_LaptopAccessories_PowerSupplies&hash=item4ab40bb2f2 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-5A-60W-AC-adapter-LCD-Monitor-TV-and-others-/320848245490?pt=UK_Computing_LaptopAccessories_PowerSupplies&hash=item4ab40bb2f2) 12v 5A 60W, will it do the needful.

The meanwells require a voltage on the dimming circuit of up to 10v, so thats another little snippet of info I need to work out.

That Power Supply should work fine. 

I wasn't aware of that meanwell requirement.  It seems to me that an additional 10 V for dimming is something different than the Pulse Width Modulating (PWM) signals used to dim LEDs via the Jarduino, like something that maybe connected to a potentiometer to dim manually.  I would ask someone who's more familiar with these meanwell drivers.  Maybe meanwell makes drivers specifically for PWM dimming?  If someone doesn't chime in on this site, maybe you should ask the person you plan to buy it from.  Tell them you plan to use it to control LEDs via an Arduino through the use of PWM signals, and you want to make sure you get the right one(s).
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 12, 2012, 09:46:29 PM
Hi Jamie!
I am very impressed with your Jarduino project. Just registered, thanks to svyaz who posted links to your project on a Russian forum... Well done, you've done a great job, man! And a big thanks to you, on behalf of everyone, for making this public!

I have been thinking, whether it is possible to add a WiFi_to_UART module to your project, or maybe just a wired ethernet shield, to install a web server on the Arduino and dub all the LCD functionality to it? Do you think there are sufficient resources left in Mega 2560? This will make possible controlling the system not just from the touch screen, but also from a smartphone, or from a remote computer via Internet. Do you think this is doable?

Welcome aboard and thank you for the compliments.  Adding WiFi capabilities and being able to use it anywhere via internet or a smartphone is what I will be working on as soon as I get enough funding to order all the parts.  I listed the upcoming development ideas for the Jarduino on the Download page: http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/ (http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/)
cool what sort of cost you looking at dude ?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 12, 2012, 10:11:21 PM
cool what sort of cost you looking at dude ?

Hey simon, thanks for your SECOND DONATION!   :You_Rock_Emoticon:  They are definately getting me closer.  I don't have a concrete number yet, but what I will most likely do is purchase the items I need as I get the funds.  What I need is another Arduino MEGA 2560, and another ITDB02 Shield and LCD Touch Screen (So I will get those ordered this weekend).  In addition, I will need ethernet / WiFi shields.  I'm not sure what will work yet, and I may have to try a few different "solutions."  I don't know of any specifically made for the MEGA, so will most likely have to modify.  I also haven't done any programming for smartphones / iphones, but will also be looking into that.  Not sure if you have to buy any special kind of software, or if there's an open-source solution available.  So once I get a chance, I will be "researching" both of those topics.  I don't anticipate programming for smartphones to be all that difficult.  Once you know a few computer languages, it's pretty easy to use the others...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 12, 2012, 10:13:06 PM
he dude no problem :) good look and possibly start a new thread and  :You_Rock_Emoticon: dude
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on April 12, 2012, 10:23:10 PM
Drivers mean well 60-48P, you can connect to the Arduino as follows You will still need NNP transistors and resistors 1k  for each driver

You made me recheck Jamie - good job ....

I just had another look at your diagram Svyaz, it shows a meanwell 60-48D - i'm buying 60-48P which are dimmable via pwm ..... can someone advise correct way to hook up to Arduino, is the additional circuitry required  :confuse:

Is it me or are there no post numbers displayed in these threads  :57:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on April 12, 2012, 10:37:44 PM
In addition, I will need ethernet / WiFi shields.  I'm not sure what will work yet, and I may have to try a few different "solutions."  I don't know of any specifically made for the MEGA, so will most likely have to modify.

Do you think these modules (http://www.ebay.com/itm/UART-WiFi-Server-Client-Module-Kits-Arduino-Compatible-/130542318415?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e64edb34f) will work with your project? Its a UART to WiFi bridge and the seller claims that it is much easier to write the code for these compared with similar modules but with SPI interface (which he also carries). He also sells this shield (http://www.ebay.com/itm/WiFi-Module-Shield-Arduino-Connect-UART-WiFi-module-Arduino-easily-/140716860083?pt=BI_Robotics&hash=item20c360e2b3) which presumably is used for connecting the abovementioned module to Arduino.

Quote
I also haven't done any programming for smartphones / iphones, but will also be looking into that.  Not sure if you have to buy any special kind of software, or if there's an open-source solution available.  So once I get a chance, I will be "researching" both of those topics.  I don't anticipate programming for smartphones to be all that difficult.  Once you know a few computer languages, it's pretty easy to use the others...
Are you sure you want to dwell into iPhone/Android programming? To write some code for the iPhone you will have to use Mac, Pay Apple about $200 for the license and will only be able to offer the code through the iTunes store (unless the iPhone is jailbroken).

It seems to me that it will be easier to install a web server on the Arduino and duplicate the touchscreen functionality as a webpage. Then, you may open this web page from a brouser on any smartphone or a PC and click the controls on it as desired. I think there are Arduino libraries for making such web server but I am not sure how much resources these will require, and how much resources are still available in your project to make this possible.

Maybe a second arduino board can be used to serve as a web server, and then the two Arduinos may communicate with each other through I2C or SPI, or whatever.

Another possible option is to use a BlueTooth shield for Arduino - these are cheaper and simpler. But then, we lose the option of controlling through the web interface - this will require software development for the iPhone or Android.

These are just ideas, but maybe you could make use of it.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 12, 2012, 11:42:32 PM
Thanks for the links and suggestions bud, keep them coming. I'm not sure if that will work or not, when I get a chance, I will go over it more this weekend. Your right as far as just using a browser, but if I do develop an app, it will most likely be Android based, and if the demand is there for iPhone, I'll look into developing an app for that too.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on April 13, 2012, 12:16:39 AM
Im sure all the meanwells are 0-10v pwm dimmable so the extra wiring will be needed budd

Look up as well budd


"Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
« Reply #88 on: Today at 12:16:39 AM »"




Drivers mean well 60-48P, you can connect to the Arduino as follows You will still need NNP transistors and resistors 1k  for each driver

You made me recheck Jamie - good job ....

I just had another look at your diagram Svyaz, it shows a meanwell 60-48D - i'm buying 60-48P which are dimmable via pwm ..... can someone advise correct way to hook up to Arduino, is the additional circuitry required  :confuse:

Is it me or are there no post numbers displayed in these threads  :57:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: svyaz on April 13, 2012, 01:07:41 AM
Excuse haste and Russian keyboard layout

I think the most correct way to connect drivers Eln 60-48p through Dual Power MOSFET Driver ICL7667
a driver and with the letter P and the letter D made ​​in almost the same compared to the Russian forum pictures of internal board Drivers are practically identical I can show photos

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: stevewild31 on April 13, 2012, 02:04:33 AM
Jamie,

'Welcome aboard and thank you for the compliments.  Adding WiFi capabilities and being able to use it anywhere via internet or a smartphone is what I will be working on as soon as I get enough funding to order all the parts.  I listed the upcoming development ideas for the Jarduino on the Download page: http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/'


Great work on this, I'm still waiting on a couple of item's to get started on the controller, but following your thread and Jarduino Code, I'm hopefull for a great outcome. Donated to help offset your expense and hope you can continue to develop beyond where you've got already. :bravo_2:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 13, 2012, 03:40:40 AM
Thank you so much Stephen! Your generosity as well as that of several others is greatly appreciated. I will be ordering parts this weekend. Let me know if you need any help personalizing the code.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: stevewild31 on April 13, 2012, 04:14:55 AM
Thank you so much Stephen! Your generosity as well as that of several others is greatly appreciated. I will be ordering parts this weekend. Let me know if you need any help personalizing the code.

You may live to regret the offer, but thank you.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on April 13, 2012, 06:06:37 AM
Thanks for the links and suggestions bud, keep them coming. I'm not sure if that will work or not, when I get a chance, I will go over it more this weekend. Your right as far as just using a browser, but if I do develop an app, it will most likely be Android based, and if the demand is there for iPhone, I'll look into developing an app for that too.

Thanks for considering my ideas, mate. I sort of have the feeling that we are littering your tank's thread here. Maybe it will make sense to separate all the controller stuff into a separate thread here?

Back to ideas - I believe that the web server option gives most versatility - providing that we aren't limited to a certain platform (providing that personally I use an iPhone, and android version is no good for me ;) ). Web-based approach brings huge benefits, eliminating the need to develop several versions of the software (one for the PC, one for MAC, one for Linux - to be able to control it from work when needed, then one for Android, another for iOS, yet another for Windows Phone - you name it). But then, I am afraid, Web version will require most resources from the Arduino...

I hope you get sufficient funds, Jamie, to buy all the stuff needed. I am not able of sponsoring anything at this moment, but I'll be supporting you morally :) Please keep up the good job! You've done really great so far!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: kiwikid_1 on April 13, 2012, 08:59:47 PM
Here is my simple web page showing my controller thats running my new display

http://kiwikidstank.dyndns.info:81/ (http://kiwikidstank.dyndns.info:81/)

its hosted on the eithernet sheild
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 13, 2012, 09:30:22 PM
cool seen that looking good what's the code based on ?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 13, 2012, 11:55:34 PM
Here is my simple web page showing my controller thats running my new display

http://kiwikidstank.dyndns.info:81/ (http://kiwikidstank.dyndns.info:81/)

its hosted on the eithernet sheild

what hardware are you using?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: kiwikid_1 on April 14, 2012, 03:04:23 AM
Just the standard eithernet sheild. Sorry I should have said its not on a mega...its on Duemilanove

Code is pretty straight forward.If you want to see it let me know and I'll post it up for you
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 14, 2012, 06:45:25 AM
Just the standard eithernet sheild. Sorry I should have said its not on a mega...its on Duemilanove

Code is pretty straight forward.If you want to see it let me know and I'll post it up for you


I was looking into a couple of different WiFi shields since a wired connection isn't an option for me, but I'm sure your code could provide me with some valuable insight. So yes, I would like to see it, and thank you very much for sharing!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 14, 2012, 07:32:03 AM
I amFortunate Have access to Both Whnei moved into my house 6 years ago first job was to Make sure i had 2 network ports in every room
As i work in IT :) so have a spare one in front room Other is used on Media Box attached to tv

Just bough this yesterday
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230774247769&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:GB:1123

figured going to need a bigger one and i do want to be able to put everything on its own board thats a long way off lol
i needed the shield and this was cheap and in the UK
Not that i fully understand the code but interested to have a look
Thanks ;)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 16, 2012, 08:55:16 PM
Thanks to some generous donations, I will be able to move forward with the Jarduino's development faster than anticipated.  So far, I've ordered another Arduino MEGA 2560, some additional testing/prototyping materials, and a WiFi Shield: http://www.cutedigi.com/wireless/wifi/linksprite-cuhead-wifi-shield-v2-0-for-arduino.html.  I can't wait until they arrive at my doorstep!  However, I still need a few more items before I can fully develop and test the updates.  A BIG thank you to all who has helped, and I thank all those in advance who are considering contributing!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on April 17, 2012, 01:34:08 PM
Thanks to some generous donations, I will be able to move forward with the Jarduino's development faster than anticipated.  So far, I've ordered another Arduino MEGA 2560, some additional testing/prototyping materials, and a WiFi Shield: http://www.cutedigi.com/wireless/wifi/linksprite-cuhead-wifi-shield-v2-0-for-arduino.html.

That's great!
I am sure you know this but, just in case, I wanted to point out that this board requires a minor hardware mod to work with Arduino MEGA: Can CuHead WiFi Shield be used with Arduino Mega? (http://www.linksprite.com/article/shownews.php?lang=en&id=106)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 17, 2012, 04:45:17 PM
I am sure you know this but, just in case, I wanted to point out that this board requires a minor hardware mod to work with Arduino MEGA: Can CuHead WiFi Shield be used with Arduino Mega? (http://www.linksprite.com/article/shownews.php?lang=en&id=106)

Yes, I got that board in particular due to the modified pin layout for the MEGA, which uses pins 50-53.  Others I found required the use of PWM pins, I can easily shuffle the digital ones around, but the PWM pins are worth their weight in gold
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on April 18, 2012, 11:54:50 AM
Hi Jamie!

Do you think the LEDs schedule interface can be changed to something like this:

(http://www.aqualogo.ru/phpbb2/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=77890)

I think it'll be visually more convenient this way. What do you think about this approach?

The interface is in Russian but I think everything is mainly clear.
The checkboxes on the left under the graph select the channels that will be shown. In the block with 4 fields next to it one can set a particular brightness to each channel and check how he likes that combination by clicking the Test button.
The two buttons below are "Read schedule from memory" and "Write schedule to memory" (this particular application is designed for the PC, to control a standalone LED controller via Bluetooth).

I think we can use some ideas from this solution.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 18, 2012, 07:25:33 PM
Hi Jamie!

Do you think the LEDs schedule interface can be changed to something like this:

(http://www.aqualogo.ru/phpbb2/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=77890)

I think it'll be visually more convenient this way. What do you think about this approach?

The interface is in Russian but I think everything is mainly clear.
The checkboxes on the left under the graph select the channels that will be shown. In the block with 4 fields next to it one can set a particular brightness to each channel and check how he likes that combination by clicking the Test button.
The two buttons below are "Read schedule from memory" and "Write schedule to memory" (this particular application is designed for the PC, to control a standalone LED controller via Bluetooth).

I think we can use some ideas from this solution.

Yes it can.  In fact, I had something like that in mind for v1.2.  I plan on changing out my color changing widget and replacing with slider bars.  Something similar is planned for the changing of the LED values as well.  Holding those + signs in until it reaches the value is far too time consuming.  Also, I'm thinking about doing away with the option of entering in values from 0 to 255, and instead just make it 0-100 (which i a site bit more intuitive if you ask me).  My beta testers will obviously get first dibs.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on April 18, 2012, 07:34:26 PM
Now that sounds miles easier Jamie lol

and over 3 weeks now and not a single glitch bloody spot on fella !

kev


Did you get my message as well Jamie ?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 18, 2012, 07:49:20 PM
Now that sounds miles easier Jamie lol

and over 3 weeks now and not a single glitch bloody spot on fella !

kev


Did you get my message as well Jamie ?


Thanks Kev - There was a glitch, but the new sketch I posted fixed the doubling of time issue with the wavemaker, but I'm guessing you don't use that feature, so didn't notice it anyway.  And yes, I just replied to your pm.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 18, 2012, 09:25:58 PM
 8) looks ingesting :) very Interesting
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on April 19, 2012, 07:02:51 AM
Hi Jamie! Thanks for your response and the efforts! The improvements you are quoting sound just great! Well be looking to get your next firmware revision when it's available...

Re: wireless interface ideas we discussed a couple of posts earlier, I have another idea. The disadvantage of using a bluetooth shield on Jarduino was the need to develop separate software for each platform. However it came to my mind that it is possible to write a cross-platform java midlet using J2ME. It can be deployed on any platform, including Android and, I believe, even on iPhone (jailbroken).

The advantage over WiFi approach is that the bluetooth shield is much cheaper than WiFi and the Arduino code to support it will be less complicated (and will certainly fit within available resources, since it doesn't require installing a web server). Another advantage is that far more phones support Java and bluetooth than a WiFi connection.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 19, 2012, 08:24:46 AM
I certainly welcome any suggestions for improvement. I do like your Bluetooth suggestion, but I think there are too many limitations with this approach. With an effective range of roughly 10m, it seems like a lot of work just to be able to do from my couch what I can do a few feet away. Although that would be nice, it would be much nicer to be able to do it from the other side of town, or from the other side of the planet for that matter.  WiFi at this point still seems to be the best albeit more expensive solution, unless you mean hooking the bluetoothed arduino wirelessly to my computer, and then to the www, but if that's the case, leaving my computer on 24/7 would cost a site more in a short period of time.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 19, 2012, 11:35:19 PM
Have a look see at what the Mail Lady dropped off today:

(https://graph.facebook.com/676698749010726/picture)

Let the games begin!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on April 19, 2012, 11:38:58 PM
Cool new toy lol

The only thing that may be a slight problem is the wireless is "B" and now most are "G" or  "N" i know my N router is not B compatible  :03:

Kev
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 20, 2012, 12:02:54 AM
Cool new toy lol

The only thing that may be a slight problem is the wireless is "B" and now most are "G" or  "N" i know my N router is not B compatible  :03:

Kev

Yeah, this was considered.  I read somewhere that this is supposedly compatible up to g.  My router is b, g, and n compatible.  I'll just change the settings to first read n only, then n & g, then finally b, g, & n.  Will report back as soon as I get the chance to play around with it.  Wifey wants to spend "quality time" together tonight.  Unfortunetly that doesn't include playing with Arduinos lol.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 20, 2012, 01:12:34 AM
lol like that
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on April 20, 2012, 01:20:13 AM
I loaded up your sketch with my screen etc, and with only a single change to define the screen type, it worked spot on.  :You_Rock_Emoticon:

Well, after I did the eeprom clear, as you did advise in your postings  :c017:

I'm looking forward to your new creativity, and of course getting my current unit to work, now that I have most of the bits. I've kept my build in a seperate thread, hoping that you will occasionally have a peek  :s_laugh:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on April 20, 2012, 08:31:14 AM
Thinking of getting one of the wifi shields ordered, will try local companies or flebay for them

Kev
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 20, 2012, 08:49:39 AM
Thinking of getting one of the wifi shields ordered, will try local companies or flebay for them

Kev

It would be nice to have someone to work with on it, as I have yet to successfully upload an example sketch, as error message after error message keeps popping up  :41:  I may have to try a different WiFi shield.  This is the one I currently have (http://www.cutedigi.com/wireless/wifi/linksprite-cuhead-wifi-shield-v2-0-for-arduino.html).
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on April 24, 2012, 07:59:12 PM
Are the fans on top of your heatsink secured, if so how did you achieve it.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on April 24, 2012, 11:30:23 PM
Jamie i seem to recall you altered the pwm frequency of the fan to around 12khz can this be done for the pwm led drivers the 10,5,3,1w ones

Cheers
Kev

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 24, 2012, 11:36:12 PM
Are the fans on top of your heatsink secured, if so how did you achieve it.

I guess I kinda brushed over the whole thing toward the end of this post (http://ukreefs.com/index.php?topic=117.msg3482#msg3482).  But I always go the extra mile for my donors!  Here's some pics I just took just for you Ian.  What I did was use some aluminum stock, bent them into flat U shapes, drilled some holes to attach to the bottom of the fans (using the screws that came with the fans), and cut a notch so that they "snap" into place on the fins.  The fins of the heatsink go into the notch, and the edges of the U wedge into the adjacent fins.  Each fan has two of these "brackets" located opposite of each other.  The fit is snug, and will hold even if I hold the heatsink upside down and shake.  When I want to take them off for cleaning/maintenance/or to take pics to show you, I just give them a good tug. 

(https://graph.facebook.com/676698659010735/picture)

(https://graph.facebook.com/676698652344069/picture)

(https://graph.facebook.com/676698665677401/picture)

I used a sharpie marker to indicate where the fans "slide into place."
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 24, 2012, 11:40:21 PM
Jamie i seem to recall you altered the pwm frequency of the fan to around 12khz can this be done for the pwm led drivers the 10,5,3,1w ones

Cheers
Kev

Actually, 25 kHz, since that's outside of our audible range.  See lines 4521-4523.  I think there may be an easier way however.  Some function called "SetPwmFrequency," if I recall correctly.  Also, be careful of changing certain channels, as it can affect other vital timer functions used in the sketch such as "millis" and "delay."  I'll get back to you on this once I look up the channel to avoid.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 24, 2012, 11:54:00 PM
Here's a link to the PWM function (http://arduino.cc/playground/Code/PwmFrequency).  I didn't use it, but you should be able to easily incorporate it.  On the surface, it seems to be easier than the way I did it.  I didn't learn of it until after the fact, and didn't feel like changing it.

AVOID changing pin 4.  That's the one that involves the major timing functions.  Here's another link to a simplified explanation of how to change PWM frequency (http://sobisource.com/?p=195).  There's a wealth of info out there, but this one seems to be the most simplified.

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 25, 2012, 12:09:08 AM
Hey Kev, forgot to ask in the other two posts, but I assume you asked about changing the frequencies because you can hear your LEDs singing to you? :7505:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 25, 2012, 12:10:52 AM
or is it Kevin Singing lol
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 25, 2012, 12:13:13 AM
or is it Kevin Singing lol

I've heard through the grapevine that he plans on singing for an upcoming YouTube video.  I'm at the edge of my seat...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: kiwikid_1 on April 25, 2012, 12:23:06 AM


  I'm at the edge of my seat...

Ready to get up and RUNNNNNNNNNNN!!!!!!!

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on April 25, 2012, 08:56:47 AM
Hey Kev, forgot to ask in the other two posts, but I assume you asked about changing the frequencies because you can hear your LEDs singing to you? :7505:
Hi Jamie!
I am also looking to see a way of increasing the PWM frequency for LEDs.

One reason, as you mentioned, that the drivers can emit audible noise and its best to operate outside the audible range.

The other reason is to avoid the stroboscopic effect as a result of low frequency PWM dimming. I read once, somewhere at reefcentral, that latency of fish eye is less than that of human eye and under low freq. PWM dimmed lights they may feel like permanently living at a disco. May get get mentally damaged from that effect.

However, not all drivers support high frequency PWM dimming. I plan using MeanWell LDD-1000H. According to datasheet, they support dimming in 100Hz-1kHz range, however a friend tested them on higher frequencies and they behave just perfectly at freqs up to 25kHz. Any drivers based on PT4115 also dim well at higher frequencies. Whereas, as far as I know, drivers based on MBI6651 can only be dimmed at low frequencies (never actually tested one).

Is it possible to have the PWM frequency for LEDs as a user-selectable setting?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on April 25, 2012, 09:17:10 AM
Well its on chaps and sorry to disappoint but no vocal cords were harmed in the making of this video lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26QqxeaRnzI

The MBI6651 pwm drivers that i have used have a PWM frequency: 100HZ to 1KHZ according to manufactures specs
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on April 25, 2012, 10:38:46 AM
Hi Kevin!

Quote
The MBI6651 pwm drivers that i have used have a PWM frequency: 100HZ to 1KHZ according to manufactures specs

Any chance of checking with a scope, how the MBI6651 behaves on frequencies above 1kHz?

As I wrote, MeanWell LDD drivers are also rated up to 1kHz but behave perfectly at much higher freqs.
Someone on a Russian forum posted an X-Ray photo of MeanWell LDD-1000H:
(http://www.aqualogo.ru/phpbb2/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=112689)
The chip in there resembles MBI6651 very much and hence, I suspect that if so, any MBI6651 based driver should be capable of higher frequency dimming. Which sounds very promising, providing that these chips can be used in parallel to provide higher currents. Unfortunately I don't have any MBI6651s around to test this statement...

Well its on chaps and sorry to disappoint but no vocal cords were harmed in the making of this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26QqxeaRnzI
I can hear some whistling noise throughout this video, but it is interrupted at some places. Is this the driver singing, or there is another ambient noise source?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on April 25, 2012, 12:35:15 PM
Maybe the birds, or frag tank powerheads, more likely the polario a slow build up then stop then a slow build up

kev

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 25, 2012, 05:46:55 PM
Hey Kev, forgot to ask in the other two posts, but I assume you asked about changing the frequencies because you can hear your LEDs singing to you? :7505:
Hi Jamie!
I am also looking to see a way of increasing the PWM frequency for LEDs.

One reason, as you mentioned, that the drivers can emit audible noise and its best to operate outside the audible range.

The other reason is to avoid the stroboscopic effect as a result of low frequency PWM dimming. I read once, somewhere at reefcentral, that latency of fish eye is less than that of human eye and under low freq. PWM dimmed lights they may feel like permanently living at a disco. May get get mentally damaged from that effect.

However, not all drivers support high frequency PWM dimming. I plan using MeanWell LDD-1000H. According to datasheet, they support dimming in 100Hz-1kHz range, however a friend tested them on higher frequencies and they behave just perfectly at freqs up to 25kHz. Any drivers based on PT4115 also dim well at higher frequencies. Whereas, as far as I know, drivers based on MBI6651 can only be dimmed at low frequencies (never actually tested one).

Is it possible to have the PWM frequency for LEDs as a user-selectable setting?

I would like to meet the person who's able to talk with the fish.  Hey you, fish!  Do you see these lights flashing 490 times every second?  I have a few questions I'd like to ask my fish lol.  But even without me asking, they never seem to complain about the lights, they only complain about wanting more corals to look at and more food to eat.  I'll see what I can do to accomodate them.

Anyway, for a user-selectable setting, it certainly is possible.  I won't be do the programming for that however, since I have no use for it.  My RECOM RCD drivers only support frequencies up to 2000Hz max :-( 

But if this helps, these are the Arduino PW Pins and correlating hardware timers.  I'm not sure about changing timer 4 on pin 7 & 8, since it may affect pin 6 as well since they are on the same timer. Pin 6 as you may know is involved in the touch screen stuff.  Messing with the timing of the touch screen may render it inoperable for all I know.  If you decide you (or someone else) wants to make a user-selectable feature so you can change the timing frequencies, proceed with caution...

Pin
       Timer
46        OC5?
45        OC5?
44        OC5?
13         OC1C
12         OC1B
11         OC1A
10         OC2A
9           OC2B
8           OC4C
7           OC4B
6           OC4A
5           OC3A
4           OC0B    //Caution: this one  directly affects major timing { i.e delay and millis}
3           OC3C
2           OC3B
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on April 25, 2012, 06:52:09 PM
Thank you, Jamie!
I am still waiting for my for my Arduino board and the screen to arrive. Bought it from eBay, but it takes significantly longer to deliver to us, compared to Europe. Will try to play with PWM settings as you suggested, when the stuff arrives.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 25, 2012, 09:21:58 PM
Thank you, Jamie!
I am still waiting for my for my Arduino board and the screen to arrive. Bought it from eBay, but it takes significantly longer to deliver to us, compared to Europe. Will try to play with PWM settings as you suggested, when the stuff arrives.

depends were you get it from
Some Stuff less than 10 days others 4 weeks and still waiting aghhhhhhhhh
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 25, 2012, 11:13:59 PM
Well, I went back through my entire thread and fixed all the broken hyperlinks.  Sorry for the inconvience.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on April 25, 2012, 11:28:06 PM
Its my fault jamie for not bringing them across buddy

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on April 26, 2012, 01:23:29 PM
Are the fans on top of your heatsink secured, if so how did you achieve it.

I guess I kinda brushed over the whole thing toward the end of this post (http://ukreefs.com/index.php?topic=117.msg3482#msg3482).  But I always go the extra mile for my donors!  Here's some pics I just took just for you Ian.  What I did was use some aluminum stock, bent them into flat U shapes, drilled some holes to attach to the bottom of the fans (using the screws that came with the fans), and cut a notch so that they "snap" into place on the fins.  The fins of the heatsink go into the notch, and the edges of the U wedge into the adjacent fins.  Each fan has two of these "brackets" located opposite of each other.  The fit is snug, and will hold even if I hold the heatsink upside down and shake.  When I want to take them off for cleaning/maintenance/or to take pics to show you, I just give them a good tug. 


Excellent service, and cheap at twice the price, i'll consider your request for a pay rise  :86:

I plan to machine a recess to house each fan, and wasn't sure how to attach - but now I do  :c017:

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 26, 2012, 04:50:58 PM
I plan to machine a recess to house each fan, and wasn't sure how to attach - but now I do  :c017:

Well, you could actually still do that.  If you recall, for my sump light, I did just that: STEP 7: Refugium & Sump Light (http://ukreefs.com/index.php?topic=117.msg682#msg682).  In this case, I attached the fan to the top of the enclosure instead of the heatsink itself.  If you are planning on making a low profile enclosure for you lights, it's an option.  Just know that you lose quite a bit of heat dissapating surface area when you start cutting off the fins.  But sometimes in order to achieve a certain aesthetic, functionality must be sacrificed.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on April 26, 2012, 05:46:18 PM
I plan to machine a recess to house each fan, and wasn't sure how to attach - but now I do  :c017:

Well, you could actually still do that.  If you recall, for my sump light, I did just that: STEP 7: Refugium & Sump Light (http://ukreefs.com/index.php?topic=117.msg682#msg682).  In this case, I attached the fan to the top of the enclosure instead of the heatsink itself.  If you are planning on making a low profile enclosure for you lights, it's an option.  Just know that you lose quite a bit of heat dissapating surface area when you start cutting off the fins.  But sometimes in order to achieve a certain aesthetic, functionality must be sacrificed.

Fair point ... I would like a slimline array, but when I consider finding a mounting location for the Arduino etc, then perhaps it's no gain to sink the fans.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 26, 2012, 06:25:25 PM
... I would like a slimline array, but when I consider finding a mounting location for the Arduino etc, then perhaps it's no gain to sink the fans.

Are you going to enclose your LED array, and if so, what materials do you plan on using?  Also, do you have any ideas/plans as to where you will mount the screen?  If I didn't decide to build a hood, I probably would have gone with something like Dave Ross's ideas (http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?s=ebb6d81db637d7b2649b3fcdfca9cd02&showtopic=206246) from a few years back when he was building his "Krusduino."  Ned Simpson also had a pretty nice design (http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/showthread.php?t=400993&page=2), which in essence is an adaptation of Dave's enclosure. 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on April 26, 2012, 08:24:00 PM
... I would like a slimline array, but when I consider finding a mounting location for the Arduino etc, then perhaps it's no gain to sink the fans.

Are you going to enclose your LED array, and if so, what materials do you plan on using?  Also, do you have any ideas/plans as to where you will mount the screen?  If I didn't decide to build a hood, I probably would have gone with something like Dave Ross's ideas (http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?s=ebb6d81db637d7b2649b3fcdfca9cd02&showtopic=206246) from a few years back when he was building his "Krusduino."  Ned Simpson also had a pretty nice design (http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/showthread.php?t=400993&page=2), which in essence is an adaptation of Dave's enclosure.
I plan to house the 4 heatsinks in a pelmet type surround, fortunately i've a tame cabinet maker to help (do) the work for me. The heatsinks will be supported using L section secured to the wood with threaded inserts. The pelmet will have a 6mm groove to locate an acrylic splash guard. The touch screen will be mounted on the front face using your bezel design or similar.

I have Y shaped wire hangers I got from Rapid, so ceiling mounted, with some strengthening between the ceiling joists of course.

Toying with the idea of an acrylic type top cover, with some mesh panels for venting, so that the inner workings are not visible. Only thing pausing that decision is the dissipation of heat to prevent build up, altthough there will be 4 pwm sensor controlled fans using a guru's design  :29:

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 26, 2012, 09:09:53 PM
...Toying with the idea of an acrylic type top cover, with some mesh panels for venting, so that the inner workings are not visible. Only thing pausing that decision is the dissipation of heat to prevent build up, altthough there will be 4 pwm sensor controlled fans using a guru's design  :29:

I used something similar to this fan cover (http://www.ebay.com/itm/120mm-12cm-Computer-Case-Fan-Dust-Guard-Grill-Protector-Cover-3-Pcs-/230773390181?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35bb2a7b65), which attaches to the superman acrylic cover that lays on top of the hood.  If you use acrylic, make sure you fasten it down at several points, and include some cross-bracing, or it will warp for sure.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 26, 2012, 09:24:00 PM
UPDATES

As you may know, I've decided to do away with the LED testing "widget,"
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170079063593/picture)

and replace it with much more user-friendly slider bars.  No more tedious tapping of the "+" and "-" buttons; now it's just point and/or drag.  I would appreciate some input from the community here as to the layout of the new and improved LED testing slider bars:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676701265677141/picture)

You can see that right now, the output is read out below each color.  I chose below so you can see the values when sliding the bars around.  Currently, it outputs the value 0 to 255.  Do you think it would be better to have it go from 0 to 100?  IMO, I think 0-100 would be far more intuitive.  The main caveat is that for every increase of 1, it would actually increase the LED by 2.55.  I personally don't think this is a problem however since my increases/decreases in brightness are usually more than 2-3, but actually closer to 5-10 or more.

Any suggestions at all are welcome & encouraged!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: svyaz on April 26, 2012, 11:11:23 PM
I think that to have both a way of testing more accurate with the first level of 0-255, the second fastest 0-100% Although this is just a test and not the accuracy of a particular setting is not important
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on April 26, 2012, 11:38:15 PM
...Toying with the idea of an acrylic type top cover, with some mesh panels for venting, so that the inner workings are not visible. Only thing pausing that decision is the dissipation of heat to prevent build up, altthough there will be 4 pwm sensor controlled fans using a guru's design  :29:

I used something similar to this fan cover (http://www.ebay.com/itm/120mm-12cm-Computer-Case-Fan-Dust-Guard-Grill-Protector-Cover-3-Pcs-/230773390181?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35bb2a7b65), which attaches to the superman acrylic cover that lays on top of the hood.  If you use acrylic, make sure you fasten it down at several points, and include some cross-bracing, or it will warp for sure.
I'm still undecided, it may be better to leave it open to the elements considering it's physical height.

My only concern with all these tremendous changes is that it may take an eternity to figure out how to incorporate the necessary "user" changes to your updated sketch. I think the slider idea is excellent.

I'm not familiar with this sketch coding, but as a general rule I would expect system variables that remain "user" configurable, and hence are not impacted by design changes.  :97: If this was only the situation in the real world. In escence, I would be hopeful that the sketch could be configured so that certain external modules were static, making incorporation of sketch updates easier without having to re incorporate user changes.

I bet that makes no sense at all  :confuse:

Any chance you could keep a wee eye on my diy thread as I really value your imput, without hijacking your main thread.  :29:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: chrisb on April 27, 2012, 04:03:01 AM
UPDATESDo you think it would be better to have it go from 0 to 100?  IMO, I think 0-100 would be far more intuitive.  The main caveat is that for every increase of 1, it would actually increase the LED by 2.55.  I personally don't think this is a problem however since my increases/decreases in brightness are usually more than 2-3, but actually closer to 5-10 or more.
If your dragging the bar up with output values of 0-255, does it jump in increments of two anyway?
Also, can you touch above and below the bars to get a 0 or 255 output or do you need to be inside the bar.

Chris
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 27, 2012, 07:15:39 AM
I'm still undecided, it may be better to leave it open to the elements considering it's physical height.

I think a closed system design with well though out ventilation can cause the air to flow across the heatsink, resulting in better heat dissapation than an open system.  In an open system, you can't control where the air is being drawn, and most likely it won't be across the surface of the heatsink(s), which translates into inefficiency...

My only concern with all these tremendous changes is that it may take an eternity to figure out how to incorporate the necessary "user" changes to your updated sketch. I think the slider idea is excellent.

Well, if you make changes to my sketch to suite your needs, as is expected, try to clearly mark those changes so you can easily transfer them over to later versions.  You can note the lines you change, or you can put a bunch of comment hashes (ie /////////->I changed this...)

I'm not familiar with this sketch coding, but as a general rule I would expect system variables that remain "user" configurable, and hence are not impacted by design changes.  :97: If this was only the situation in the real world. In escence, I would be hopeful that the sketch could be configured so that certain external modules were static, making incorporation of sketch updates easier without having to re incorporate user changes.

I bet that makes no sense at all  :confuse:

I don't anticipate anyone updating to a later version to loose any of the user settings as defined in the program.  Any and all settings you select should (most likely will) be saved after flashing/updating to a later version, allowing you to resume right where you left off(barring a major program overhaul).  The one exception may be the incorporation of the WiFi Shield, as I may be forced to shuffle around some pins, but I always strive to make it easier on myself, and by extension anyone who wishes to use my sketch.  As far as the user-friendly stuff goes, they are simply improvements to the way the user (aka you and me) interfaces with the software (ie - easier to use, more intuitive, faster, etc.), as "user-friendly" suggests.

Any chance you could keep a wee eye on my diy thread as I really value your imput, without hijacking your main thread.  :29:

I got your back
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 27, 2012, 07:38:37 AM
If you're dragging the bar up with output values of 0-255, does it jump in increments of two anyway?

Good point Chris.  Given an LCD screen height in Landscape Mode of only 239 pixels, and furthermore considering that each slider bar (as pictured) is a mere 160 pixels, it is impossible to use the slider alone to get increments of "1" in a range of 0-255.  I'm delightfully surprised that someone was able to see that.  I do get a mix of even and odd numbers, so sometimes I'm able to get that increment of 1, but usually doesn't happen intentionally.  Not only does a 0-100 range make more sense intuitively, it also affords much more precise control.  I still value peoples' input (either for or against the change).  So please, keep the comments coming!  Even if it's just a "I like the 0-100," or "I prefer 0-255."  Sometimes in life you can get what you ask for.  This is one of those rare times.

Also, can you touch above and below the bars to get a 0 or 255 output or do you need to be inside the bar.

The way I have my Slider Bar sketch written, it does go to 0 or 255 (100%) touching below and above.  I did originally have it so you had to be inside the bar, but didn't care for it because it could at times be difficult to get exactly 0 or exactly 255 (100).  I would consider changing it back if there's a high demand to keep the 0-255 range, because if I did, I will include "+" and "-" buttons either above or below the bars that go in increments of 1.  If I go that route, I will have to make the slider bars more compact, and that in itself will loose even more precision.  It's a lot of give and take.  Finding the balance can be tricky.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: chrisb on April 27, 2012, 09:27:10 AM
Can you output the 0-255 value before changing it to 0-100.
How are you exiting the screen?

The layout looks great.

Chris

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 27, 2012, 12:05:46 PM
 As always dude you are on the ball look forward to testing I am a step closer now to having all bits
More parts arrived yesterday the screw mega shield and the drivers
Just need a good PSU and waiting for more heatsinks and I can start  :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on April 27, 2012, 06:34:35 PM
Its good is your able to adjust all leds from the same page than going forward and back to gain access of the other channels, this should make it easier to get the desired lighting look

Kev

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 27, 2012, 08:12:04 PM
Can you output the 0-255 value before changing it to 0-100.
How are you exiting the screen?

The layout looks great.

Chris

It outputs both values simultaneously.  This should be obvious as to the left, you see the 0-100 scale, while at the bottom you see 0-255.  You can therefore select which value you want outputed.  The pic I uploaded didn't have it, but I made and X button.  I'm still playing around with the layout a bit, especially if I decide to add the "+" and "-" buttons.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 27, 2012, 08:27:42 PM
Its good is your able to adjust all leds from the same page than going forward and back to gain access of the other channels, this should make it easier to get the desired lighting look

Kev

With Jarduino 1.1, you currently can adjust all your LEDs from one page without going back and forth.  I think what you might be doing here is confusing the "LED Testing" and "LED changing" pages.  For the "changing of the LEDs," I plan on making something similar to this "LED testing" setup as well, but it will have to be different.  Keep in mind there are 96 values that you can "change" for each color.  For 7 channels, fitting 672 sliders onto "one screen" would simply be far too impractical.  For the "LED changing pages," I will make 8 sliders on 1 page, with 12 selectable pages.  Each slider on these pages will represent the value outputted during 15 minute timeframes over a 2 hour period.  This will replace the "+" and "-" button from the origianl stilo program.  I'm also considering doing away with the 0-255 and replacing it with 0-100 on these pages.  But first things first....
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on April 27, 2012, 08:37:52 PM
Jamie, the new interface looks very promicing!  :bravo_2:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 27, 2012, 08:44:25 PM
Jamie, the new interface looks very promicing!  :bravo_2:

Thanks!  Do you think 0-100 would be better?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on April 27, 2012, 09:01:01 PM
Thanks!  Do you think 0-100 would be better?
To me, 0-255 is better since its more than 2.5 times more accurate. That's a difference, since for 1000mA driver the minimum setting is 1mA vs 2.5mA. I think with 1mA capability the RB channel can be used for moonlights, without having to waste a separate PWM channel for it (I can certainlt have other uses for an extra channel, since I am thinking of combining many narrow-spectrum LEDs on separate channels - this will make the colours in a reef less contrast, with more shades).

I have an idea: why not make an .ini file with all user preferences in it? No need implementing the .ini editor through the interface, but it can be a text file editable on the PC if needed. It can come with all default settings, no editing required for most people.

This file shall contain all the constants which the program will read from it upon boot: PWM frequencies, units (like for example, 0..255 vs. 0..100), etc. This will make the program very flexible indeed.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on April 27, 2012, 11:47:31 PM
I meant with the click one colour to adjust with the + or - seems an easier way of sliding the bars up and down budd, The 0-255 is more accurate but could call it 0-100 as long as theres 0-255 steps if that makes any sense its late, will get you a donation sent as well next time i transfer some to paypal budd for all your hard work

Kev

 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on April 30, 2012, 09:35:42 AM
UPDATE

I thought I would share with all of you a few lines of converstation relating to PWM and LEDs and in particular using 0-255 I had with Mark Chester, the inventor of the Power LED Shields.  This guy really knows pretty much everything there is to know about LEDs.

Quote from: Mark
Since the change of brightness is less obvious at the higher levels, maybe you could map the 0-255 to 0-100 across a curve or predetermined pattern. Then your lower levels could change by 1 and the higher levels could change by a larger increment. I do this in my bike headlight by multiplying the current brightness value by something like 1.25 instead of just incrementing by a constant. In my case, the brightness starts at 10, so the change never rounds to the same number I started with. But you could pre-map all the values to an array of 100 elements and select the brightness value from that.

Quote from: Jamie
Very good suggestion Mark. I have noticed the somewhat logarithmic scale in brightness at the higher levels. In fact, it is even visibly noticeable in my lunar phase, which I currently have set from 43 (which is a New Moon at 0%; at 44 they start to show some brightness) to 95 (which is a Full Moon). Would you say that the declining changes in brightness are the same for different color LEDs across all channels? Or does each color drop off at a different rate and have to be mapped seperately? Also a concern is that a linearly correcting function may not work the same from one user to the next. Hopefully this is not the case, but if it is, maybe it will make this drop off in bightness less noticeable? That is, would it be better with this mapping in place, as opposed to being absent?

Quote from: Mark
It has mostly to do with how our eyes perceive light, and less to do with the LEDs. So the behavior is consistent across all colors. It's close to a logarithmic curve. Light has to be about 10 times brighter to appear twice as bright. HOWEVER, this is only good for our eyes. I can't say how light is perceived by the inhabitants of your tank....
 
PWM dimming is roughly linear. But the jump from PWM value 1 to 2 is an increase of 100%. 2 to 3 is 50 %, 3 to 4 is 33%, and so on. This is why the change in brightness is so obvious at the lower dimming levels.

So armed with this information, I'm even more inclined to change it to 0-100, with the values mapped so when you increase the value, it appears to do so in a much more linear fashion.  I'm still undecided about implementing this change, and would like to hear more input from the community before making a final decision.

BUT, in the meantime, I decided to play around with the "LED Testing" page's layout a little bit more.  This is the layout without any logarithmic correction mapping, but rather based off of the way the Jarduino currently handles brightening and dimming of LEDs:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676702459010355/picture)

Since some indicated they would like more "control" over the values of 0-255, and this is very difficult to do with "slider bars" alone, I put in some buttons that increase/decrease the value by 1 on the 0-255 scale (These buttons are from Henning Karlsen's analog clock sketch, with a little bit of tweaking of course).  Now, you can roughly get to the value you want with the sliders very quickly, then perform additional fine tuning with the up/down buttons.  Do you think this screen looks overly busy?  I could however clean things up quite a bit if I ever decide to follow Mark's very intelligent suggestions....

I know this is a lot to take in, but I hope to continue recieving feedback before I make a final decision.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on April 30, 2012, 09:54:52 AM
cool dude Can not wait to have my LEDs up and running so i can play with this :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on April 30, 2012, 01:37:53 PM
I personally like the look of the screen, for its simplicity and clean appearance. The columns are hopefully broad enough to acommodate FFS (fat finger syndrome)  :85:

To use the 0-100 scale is fine, I think a fair few people will see it as a percentage of brightness and possibly eaiser to relate to, I do appreciate that the "workings" behind the values may not be specifically percentage based.

All in all another enhancement to an already great piece of work.

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on May 01, 2012, 06:04:08 AM
Quote from: Mark
Since the change of brightness is less obvious at the higher levels, maybe you could map the 0-255 to 0-100 across a curve or predetermined pattern. Then your lower levels could change by 1 and the higher levels could change by a larger increment.
Truly brilliant idea!

So armed with this information, I'm even more inclined to change it to 0-100, with the values mapped so when you increase the value, it appears to do so in a much more linear fashion.  I'm still undecided about implementing this change, and would like to hear more input from the community before making a final decision.

in the Now, you can roughly get to the value you want with the sliders very quickly, then perform additional fine tuning with the up/down buttons.
This is also very cool!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 02, 2012, 08:38:51 AM
UPDATE

I've finally got the revamped  "LED Testing" page with the slider bars working in Jarduino.  Most (if not all) of the bugs have been exterminated!  Now I've been preoccupied with getting the "Change LED Output Values" page(s) upgraded.  I've tried several different configurations with the layout, but this one (as busy as it may be), seems to be the best.  There are 8 slider bars, each representing a 15 minute interval over a 2 hour period, with the 2 hour periods being selected at the top.  So not at all different in concept from the original, but it is much much faster!  I can now just swipe my finger across all the bars (from one bar to the next) and in less than a second get a fairly close approximation to my desired values.  Then it just takes a few more seconds to get it exactly to values I want with the +/- buttons.  Once again, your suggestions and comments are welcomed and encouraged!

BEFORE:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170112396923/picture)

AFTER:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676704679010133/picture)

BTW, when I finish coding and debugging for the "Change LED Output Values" page(s), I'll post a quick video on youTube displaying the new and improved user-friendliness. Coding/debugging for this "section" should be finished in a week or so...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on May 02, 2012, 10:06:22 AM
Looking well Jamie nice work fella, Just a quick question without an arduino is it possible to control pwm led dimmers, is there a circuit providing 0-5v pwm feed ?

Think i recall something about a pot and a 555

Kev

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 02, 2012, 05:01:00 PM
Looking well Jamie nice work fella, Just a quick question without an arduino is it possible to control pwm led dimmers, is there a circuit providing 0-5v pwm feed ?

Think i recall something about a pot and a 555

Kev

Control PWM dimmers without a PWM signal?  You can, but it will be analog dimming as opposed to PWM dimming.  The Power LED shields I use makes it easy to choose between using one kind of dimming, or the other, or both.  It uses a variable resistor and I believe an Optocoupler for analog.  Using the shields made me lazy when it comes to knowing all there is to know on this part of my build, as the shield takes all the guesswork out of it for me.    I pulled this off of Mark's page  (http://www.chestersgarage.com/documentation/power-led-shield) for a brief explanation:

PWM Dimming
Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) dimming works by turning the LEDs on and off very quickly to make them appear dimmer or brighter. The ratio of “off time” to “on time” determines the brightness of the LED. This high-speed flashing is undetectable by the human eye in most cases. However if the LED is moving or an object lit by the LED is moving, the observer sometimes sees a stroboscopic effect, which can be undesirable. (Think of how the tail lights of some recent model cars look when your eye darts around the road.) LED manufacturers recommend using PWM to dim the LEDs if the project is sensitive to color shift. This is because LEDs change color slightly as the current through them changes. PWM allows dimming with the least amount of color shift in the LEDs because during the time the LEDs are on, they are always at the same current level.
 
Analog DimmingAnalog dimming converts the PWM to a voltage level which changes the current flow through the LEDs. This eliminates the high-speed flashing caused by PWM. Analog dimming is more suitable for projects involving motion, and other specific situations. But with analog dimming, the LEDs may color shift as the brightness changes.
 
Mixing Analog and PWM Dimming
Usually, choosing either PWM or analog dimming is sufficient for a project. However, if your project requires very low dimming values, you can mix PWM and analog dimming. When both signals are mixed, the analog dimming is imposed upon the PWM dimming and their effects are additive.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on May 02, 2012, 05:40:58 PM
I understand what pwm and analogue is a lad just asked if he can dim the 0-5v pwm 1-3-5-10w led drivers from sure electronics not using an arduino budd
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 02, 2012, 06:17:40 PM
I understand what pwm and analogue is a lad just asked if he can dim the 0-5v pwm 1-3-5-10w led drivers from sure electronics not using an arduino budd

Sorry for the confusion and extra information.  He could easily build a circuit using a 555 timer to produce the necesarry pwm signal to dim the LEDs in lieu of using an arduino.  Here's a simple diagram of doing just that:
(http://www.reuk.co.uk/OtherImages/ne555-pwm-led-dimmer-circuit.gif)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on May 02, 2012, 06:20:37 PM
hey no sorry needed and thank you for that
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on May 05, 2012, 05:17:39 PM
Looking well Jamie nice work fella, Just a quick question without an arduino is it possible to control pwm led dimmers, is there a circuit providing 0-5v pwm feed ?

Think i recall something about a pot and a 555

Kev
Hi Kevin!
We developed a similar circuit based on TL494 which is another affordable and widespread PWM controller. We used this circuit to control LDD-1000H:
(http://www.aqualogo.ru/phpbb2/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=111241)
R1, C2 set the PWM frequency, at given values it's around 50kHz. If you increase R1 to 4.7k the frequency will decrease to about 24kHz. You can fyrther increase R1 to reduce the frequency if you need it.
We also modified the circuit if you want to convert 0..10V dimming signal into PWM dimming signal:
(http://www.aqualogo.ru/phpbb2/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=114240)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 05, 2012, 08:38:51 PM
I think this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNO-2011-ATMEGA328P-PU-ATMEGA8U2-AVR-MCU-Board-USB-Cable-Arduino-compatible-/221016707463?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33759f5187) is fairly inexpensive, as is this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-UNO-2011-ATMEGA328P-PU-ATMEGA8U2-AVR-MCU-Board-Free-USB-2-0-Cabl-/160795720659?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25702bfbd3)!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on May 06, 2012, 10:30:54 AM
i have them the lad just wanted a simple pot to turn the leds up and down but using a generic psu so led drivers must be used to avoid blowing the leds
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 07, 2012, 11:18:22 AM
JARDUINO v1.2 STATUS UPDATE

With a lot of heavy lifting, this is the progress I've made thus far on development:

   • Added support for Arduino 1.0 IDE (Must use yet another patched version as Arduino has yet to fix an overflow issue in their IDE)
   • Replaced the ITDB02_Graph16.h Library with UTFT.h Library by Henning Karlsen
   • Replaced Matt Joyce's DS1307 Library with Henning Karlsen's DS1307 Library
       - minor modifications to Karlsen's DS1307 Library
       - rewrote all RTC coding in sketch, loosley based on Karlsen's "ITDB02_Analog_Clock"
   • Replaced LED Output Testing "Widget" with "Slider Bars"

THE FOLLOWING COMING SOON!
   • Finish upgrading "Change LED Output Values" page with "Slider Bars"
   • More Built-In Protections and Redundancies
   • Improve the look of some buttons as well as some other visual tweaks
   • Add an additional page of user settings including:
       - Ability to set temperature thresholds for a number of different settings
       - Ability to change screensaver timing
       - Maybe more!  Suggestions anyone?
   • And of course, add WiFi!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on May 07, 2012, 12:18:28 PM
Tremendous amount of work you are doing, looking forward to seeing the changes on  my screen :97:

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on May 07, 2012, 02:29:51 PM
That is cool, Jamie!

   • And of course, add WiFi!

This is very exciting! So, you implemented WiFi already! How exactly? I mean, how do you control the device using WiFi? Did you install a web server on it and control through a browser? Or you took another approach?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 07, 2012, 08:13:50 PM
This is very exciting! So, you implemented WiFi already! How exactly? I mean, how do you control the device using WiFi? Did you install a web server on it and control through a browser? Or you took another approach?

Not quite that far yet, I completed everthing up to "THE FOLLOWING COMING SOON!"  Everything after that I have yet to complete.  Just thought I'd update everyone on what I've done thus far.  I got more hours into those developments alone than most spend working at paid jobs...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: svyaz on May 08, 2012, 01:07:09 AM
I have an idea to divide the screen into the main area and if we touch on the screen levels led - get into the test menu Led (quick access)
More can be moved level led bar and empty place, or event to show what
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 08, 2012, 06:33:16 AM
I have an idea to divide the screen into the main area and if we touch on the screen levels led - get into the test menu Led (quick access)
More can be moved level led bar and empty place, or event to show what

I tossed around the idea myself.  In fact, I have an idea where you can "slide" out each section of screen (panels), and reveal a new panel.  Maybe I'll implement that in Jarduino v1.3, as well as a weather feature.  For now, I'm very consumed with getting v1.2 up and going.  I do like your weather feature.  How's that working out for you?  Where it says "Weather," is that a new font you included, or is it just a picture of the word?  Here's a few more ideas I've been playing with: Maybe you can include some print outs to the screen further detailing the weather conditions (ie - "light rain," "partly cloudy," "sunny," etc.).  And if you have a wave maker, you can have the weather affect the wave action.  I was even thinking of eventually putting in a sprinkler system so that when the tank needs a top off, some of those times it will "rain" instead of filling up a section in my sump.  And once I get the WiFi going, maybe I could include a feature that uses the internet to get info on the live weather from the Marshall Islands (or wherever in the world you choose), and mimics it in the tank.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: svyaz on May 08, 2012, 08:58:29 AM
Where it says "Weather," is that a new font you included, or is it just a picture of the word?
font weather - it is a picture I tried to add an additional Cyrillic but turned what that Arabic font :)
a lot of time was not to study in detail but I want to add more fonts to the library
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 08, 2012, 09:29:03 AM
I want to add more fonts to the library

This is very easy if you know where to look.  ENJOY! (http://www.henningkarlsen.com/electronics/r_fonts.php)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on May 08, 2012, 03:33:37 PM
Jamie in the future development its been pointed out about a sump auto top up and maybe a sump level read out any thoughts ?

using this may be of use to us

http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10221

(http://dlnmh9ip6v2uc.cloudfront.net/images/products/10221-01.jpg)

The eTape Liquid Level Sensor from Milone Technologies is a great way to measure the level of a liquid. It has a resistive output that varies with the level of the fluid. It does away with clunky mechanical floats, and easily interfaces with electronic control systems. The sensor's envelope is compressed by the hydrostatic pressure of the fluid in which it is immersed. This results in a change in resistance that corresponds to the distance from the top of the sensor to the surface of the fluid. The sensor's resistive output is inversely proportional to the height of the liquid: the lower the liquid level, the higher the output resistance; the higher the liquid level, the lower the output resistance.

regards
kev



Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on May 08, 2012, 05:54:18 PM
I could see that being really useful, now what can I sell  :93:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on May 08, 2012, 05:56:44 PM
lol yea not cheap but i can see it being useful :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 08, 2012, 09:18:08 PM
Jamie in the future development its been pointed out about a sump auto top up and maybe a sump level read out any thoughts ?

using this may be of use to us

http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10221

Wow Kev, that's really cool!  My first cuationary thoughts on this is that if implementing this, you may (WILL) need additional safeguards.  Imaging this scenario: If you control the water flow (on/off) via a servo, in the event that your water level is low the controller will tell it to start the fresh RO/DI water flowing.  That's all fine and dandy, but what if right after that particular moment of water flow start you loose power?  You better make sure you have a way of shutting it off!  If however you use a pump, this scenario would be fine as loss of power would stop the pump from doing its job.  I guess another thing you could use is a device that is closed when no power is supplied, and open when it is.  My mechanical system utilizes a float, and a pressure tank, so no power is required, but this sensor I think has far more potential.  I think if given the right setup, disaster can be avoided.  I also think this thing would be very useful in a rainmaker as an auto top off.  Thanks for posting that up! 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on May 08, 2012, 11:02:14 PM
If we use a liquid type solenoid then that will shut off as soon as power goes off, this will be ran from the mains circuit not from a arduino battery so no power no top up

Your ro unit sounds like mine with its own pressure vessel mine holds 3.2 gallon but i have got two of them linked having 6.4 gallons on tap ready, However my ro unit is not directly plumbed to the tank mine has a 50ltr top up section on the sump so i would use a 12v pump Let me know if or when you get around to having a look i will make a donation to the cost of that unit budd

Kev

 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 08, 2012, 11:35:49 PM
The top off stuff won't be for a while, since I will be devoting most of my spare time to getting the WiFi stuff up and going.

Aside from that, I was just tinkering around with my coding for the slider bars.  I'm not sure what to do (that is, I'm not sure what's more important to the users) - There's so many calculations going on that the responsiveness of the screen is essentially cut in half, which makes the slider bars move in jumps.  This effect is not as noticeable if you don't move so fast (like about 1/2 the speed).  I can smooth out the transistions significantly at a cost.  That would be delaying the time in between moving the slider bars, and outputing those new values to the LEDs. 

So the question is, what's more important:

   1)  Smooth moving slider bars with a 1-3 second delay before output occurs.

   2)  Somewhat rough moving slider bars with instant LED output.

I have a good idea as to which way to go I suppose, but I appreciate input from the community...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on May 08, 2012, 11:39:08 PM
My personnel opinion is your doing such a great job i dont give a dam dont mind either i know no help what so ever at all sorry lol
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on May 08, 2012, 11:48:53 PM
I will Be the first :) (But Kev got it in while i was typing lol)
1)  Smooth moving slider bars with a 1-3 second delay before output occurs 

but to be honest any i think the slider is beter than putting in values
Even the option to add to sketch first before the upload and then Minor tweaks once up and running
Simon
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 09, 2012, 12:02:35 AM
I will Be the first :) (But Kev got it in while i was typing lol)
1)  Smooth moving slider bars with a 1-3 second delay before output occurs 

but to be honest any i think the slider is beter than putting in values
Even the option to add to sketch first before the upload and then Minor tweaks once up and running
Simon

After mulling it over for a while now, I was leaning toward #2.  The reason being is seeing the LEDs light up right away seems to be of more use than the visual appeal on the touch screen.  That way you can get your values in relatively quickly, as opposed to moving the bar and waiting for it to output before you know if it's what you want.  BUT, I actually just found a "happy?" medium.  It's still a little choppy (although much less than before), and the LEDs output almost instantly.  Accomplished this with a bit of trickery, but it works...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on May 09, 2012, 10:01:36 AM
We had faith in you budd lol

did you mange to incorporate the temp shut off for the leds in revision 2 budd ?

kev

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 09, 2012, 10:19:38 AM
did you mange to incorporate the temp shut off for the leds in revision 2 budd ?

Yeah, got it in.  I'm about to add another General Settings Screen so you can set that temperature, as well as the startup temp for fans, and add a few other user-defined settings (as opposed to changing them in the sketch and uploading).  This shouldn't take nearly as long as the other stuff I just finished (rewrite of all rtc functions, Arduino 1.0 IDE compatibility, Slider Bars, etc.).  I'm still doing a little debugging on a few of those things, but I'm getting close to crossing off everything on the list I provided a few posts back (with the exception of the WiFi, as that "portion" will take a lot of time to complete).  Hopefully should be ready for beta testing by this time next week.  And I'll post some more pics shortly, as well as a video since pics hardly do the new slider bars any justice.

Well, I'm getting kind of exhausted, as it's 5:10 AM.  Off to bed for a quick nap before I have to get up in a few hours.... Cheers!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on May 09, 2012, 10:55:55 AM
you sound like you work my Hours
Graet news Should be ready toi start looking at this by next week busy doing PC repairs at Home :) (Brings in Fish Fund Money)
ANd Just Build My New Mac Clone PC :)
Great News Though Dude
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 10, 2012, 09:20:18 AM
Brings in Fish Fund Money

Yeah, I'll fix just about anything for that fund lol!  Since I've installed my new Sump LED light, I've been selling quite a bit of chaeto on eBay.  That stuff grows like mad now.  It's nice that all my hard work not only makes my tank look amazing, it's actually bringing in some cash!  I can't believe how high people bid that stuff up to!  Hopefully my corals start going crazy too, then my tank has the potential to make more than enough to pay for itself.  :97:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on May 10, 2012, 09:52:49 AM
What led did you put over the sump Jamie ? got a 30w 6000k - 6200k on mine boasting 2300lm
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 10, 2012, 10:07:33 AM
What led did you put over the sump Jamie ? got a 30w 6000k - 6200k on mine boasting 2300lm

4 XP-G Cool Whites and 1 XP-G Warm White.  It's only a 10 gallon tank, with around 5 gallons for the chaeto, so not much space for it, but it doesn't seem to care.  I'm not sure of the color temperature.  It's on approximately a 12 hour on/off photoperiod, with a sunrise and sunset for the inhabitants of the Sump (not for the chaeto as I'm sure it also doesn't care about that).  I used to have this light over the sump (http://www.petsolutions.com/C/Aquarium-Power-Compact-Fixtures/I/Jalli-11-13-watt-Compact-Strip.aspx), and any cheato I had in there would slowly wither away, which is obviously bad as it was introducing more phosphates and nitrates, rather than exporting them.  I also tried a few other lights with no success.  After building my own light, the chaeto was going so crazy that I was throwing a fistfull or two in the trash every week, that is, until I started throwing them into the mail to send off to eBay customers!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on May 10, 2012, 11:07:36 AM
is that the strip growing the cheto dude
Cheap enough :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 10, 2012, 09:07:16 PM
is that the strip growing the cheto dude
Cheap enough :)

This is the light for the sump I'm talking about, as detailed in STEP 7: Refugium & Sump Light. (http://ukreefs.com/index.php?topic=117.msg682#msg682)  The little black box that sits on top.  Not exactly sure how much it cost, because most of it was made from scrap parts I had laying around (except for the 5 LEDs, DS18B20 Temp Sensor, and the PWM Fan).  If I had to guess, I would say no more than $30-40.  (18-25 £).
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169362396998/picture)

With the chaeto it has grown, it has definitely paid for itself already!

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 10, 2012, 09:09:27 PM
Questions for those who wanted the auto LED shutoff feature.  After writing the code to shut them off, I had some thoughts in regards to how it shuts them off.  Do you prefer them to be shut off completely, or dim them by say 50% for example?  And if they are still too hot after 5 minutes, maybe then completely shut them off?  I could also do it in different dimming percentages, such as 10% decrease every minute or so until they get cooler.  Just some examples, whatever you think is best.

Also, what about turning them back on?  Let's say the temperature to shut them off is set at 60°.  How long should it wait, and how many degrees below that threshold should it wait before deciding to turn them back on?  And, should they be turned back on at their regular schedule, or should they resume with decreased values?  I'm thinking that if they have to be dimmed or shut off, then there's a problem with heat so it will just keep happening again and again upon each resume until the "sun goes down."  Lastly, what if you're not around when/if this happens?  How are you to know there's an issue?  Maybe have somewhere that prints out the highest recorded temperature before they shut off, as well as the time it occurred?  That way you have some info with which to troubleshoot.  I'm thinking that when the WiFi comes, I'll just have it send out a txt or email telling me when something bad happens, but until then, please let me know what you'd like as I'm including this feature solely based off of your requests
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on May 10, 2012, 09:15:50 PM
is that the strip growing the cheto dude
Cheap enough :)

This is the light for the sump I'm talking about, as detailed in STEP 7: Refugium & Sump Light. (http://ukreefs.com/index.php?topic=117.msg682#msg682)  The little black box that sits on top.  Not exactly sure how much it cost, because most of it was made from scrap parts I had laying around (except for the 5 LEDs, DS18B20 Temp Sensor, and the PWM Fan).  If I had to guess, I would say no more than $30-40.  (18-25 £).
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169362396998/picture)

With the chaeto it has grown, it has definately paid for itself already!

cool yes seen this but with every thing going on forgot lol
getting old lol
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on May 10, 2012, 09:16:45 PM
Dimming straight to around 10% or 25% as most led builds will not be flat out on 100% until the temp reaches the max amount then after the temp has dropped maybe back on at a reduced rate like you mentioned budd
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 13, 2012, 10:07:40 AM
Dimming straight to around 10% or 25% as most led builds will not be flat out on 100% until the temp reaches the max amount then after the temp has dropped maybe back on at a reduced rate like you mentioned budd

Ok, decided to take it a step further and allow the user to dim it to whatever percentage (100% down to 0%) of the original values entered.  I also decided against resuming at a reduced rate, as this is something I think would be better for the user to resolve by manually changing the values if they feel it's a problem.  In the event the LEDs reach the failsafe temperature set by the user, the controller will instruct the LEDs to stay at a dimmed state until the temperature falls 5° below the set temperature before resuming at the set brightness schedule...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on May 13, 2012, 05:15:43 PM
nice plan dude  :c017:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on May 17, 2012, 06:11:58 AM
Hi Jamie!

It just came to my mind - your project is growing and perhaps its time to make it modular, with wireless control.

I am looking at wireless modules based on NRF24L01+ (http://www.ebay.com/itm/4PCS-NRF24L01-2-4GHz-Wireless-Transceiver-Module-For-Arduino-Microcontrolle-r-/170814612382?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c558239e), they are very cheap.

Maybe it can make sense to install a smaller arduino (basically, we only need a lot of PWM channels from it - a simple ATMEGA88 chip will do it) with one of these modules in the LED fixture, another one in the auto top-off unit, one for the pumps, etc. Then we'll have the main mega 2560 computer as a standalone unit, placed conveniently anywhere to control all the units wirelessly and hosting a web server for even better convenience. This approach will also remove most of the load from the main controller (particularly, by moving PWM control to the slave controller), and the freed-up resources can be used for adding new functions/conveniences. All the slave units will also become standalone, requiring no messy wired links to the controller.

Whan do you think of this approach?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 17, 2012, 09:28:46 AM
Hi Jamie!

It just came to my mind - your project is growing and perhaps its time to make it modular, with wireless control.

I am looking at wireless modules based on NRF24L01+ (http://www.ebay.com/itm/4PCS-NRF24L01-2-4GHz-Wireless-Transceiver-Module-For-Arduino-Microcontrolle-r-/170814612382?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c558239e), they are very cheap.

Maybe it can make sense to install a smaller arduino (basically, we only need a lot of PWM channels from it - a simple ATMEGA88 chip will do it) with one of these modules in the LED fixture, another one in the auto top-off unit, one for the pumps, etc. Then we'll have the main mega 2560 computer as a standalone unit, placed conveniently anywhere to control all the units wirelessly and hosting a web server for even better convenience. This approach will also remove most of the load from the main controller (particularly, by moving PWM control to the slave controller), and the freed-up resources can be used for adding new functions/conveniences. All the slave units will also become standalone, requiring no messy wired links to the controller.

Whan do you think of this approach?

I love your idea of wireless peripherials, but I'm not clear as to how you suggest I implement it, as I'm not at all familiar with these (or any other) wireless modules.  Maybe you can make a quick diagram clearing up your suggestions?  I've never hooked up more than two Arduino's together, but I'm thinking it would just require the tx, rx, 5V and gnd pins?  Then you could probably hook up several ATmegas?  Then would each ATmega get it's own transceiver, with a reciever located at the peripherial?  How many transceiver's can you put on one ATmega88?   I'm not even sure how I would write code for that, that is, how to communicate with the slaves.  I'm guessing a whip would be ineffective lol! 

Here's some quick stats:
--Jarduino             ~170 kb's,             600+ b's of EEPROM,   uses 15 PWM pins. 
--ATmega2560        256 kb's flash       4096 b's of EEPROM,     has 15 PWM pins.
--ATmega88                8 kb's flash        512 b's of EEPROM,     has   6 PWM pins.

Maybe you know the answer to this question:  If I were to add an ATmega2560 as a slave to my Arduino 2560, and add WiFi to the slave, can I control the master via WiFi?  Also, if you can add several transievers to just 1 ATmega2560 slave, then maybe that would be the way to go as I would limit the amount of microcontrollers to 2, and have plenty of space for a server, and maybe enough "stuff" leftover to add SD card capabilities on the slave.  Also, I think another 2560 (or 1280) would play much nicer toghether.  Just trying too look at your suggestions in an alternative way as to limit the amount of work involved (limit the amount of changes required to do what you are suggesting).
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on May 17, 2012, 07:21:11 PM
Quote
I'm not at all familiar with these (or any other) wireless modules.
These are just transcievers (up to 2mbps!) with SPI interface (chip select, clock, MOSI, MISO). The module can be programmed to be a transmitter or a receiver. Look here (http://www.scribd.com/doc/39557864/Nrf24l01-Tutorial-0) for a very simple intro to the module. And here (http://arduino.cc/playground/InterfacingWithHardware/Nrf2401) you can find an Arduino library for it.

My vision is as follows: We can have several Arduino boards with one such transceiver module per board. One will be the master device with the touch screen - functionally it will be like the present version, but no actual devices connected to it. It will still control all the devices, but instead of actually generating all the signals it will issue commands according to a certain protocol (for example, it can send a command "set light channel #3 to 30%"). All the devices are physically connected to slave Arduino boards. For example, we can have a similar mega2560 or mega1280 board (but without the screen) on the light fixture, with many PWM channels on it to control the lights and light fixture fans.

Other devices sharing similar functions can be grouped on simpler/cheaper Arduino boards. For example, we can have a standalone device for auto top-off and dosing pumps, another device for controllable mains switches and wavemaker pumps, heater/cooler, etc. All the devices can be smart enough to maintain their main functions, to a certain degree, without the need for the master unit to send commands to them all the time. But they have no separate user interfaces and their programming is only done through the master unit. Slaves shall report their state to the master when they receive a request from it, or by their own will, when situation requires its attention.

This pretty much resembles a hierarchic structure of an army. Master gives general directions and instructions and the slaves find the best way for their implementation. It then reports back about the results and/or whenever there is an emergency.

On a protocol level, each device can have their ID. Whenever a command is transmitted by a device, the command header shall contain the command type, issuer ID, and  intended recipient ID. This pretty much resembles the operation of LAN. In general, the transcievers on all devices are in "listening" mode. Whenever a packet is transmitted into the air, all the devices receive it and check whether they are the intended recipient. If yes, they analyze the command and act accordingly. When a device has to say something, it prepares a packet with all the needed data, programs the transceiver into transmitting mode for a short time, sends the packet, and immediately switches back into "listening" mode. The devices should acknowledge the receipt of commands  (after a small time delay so that the transmitting device has sufficient time to switch to the listening mode), so that the sender can make sure that it was heard. If no acknowledge is received during a certain timeout period, the sender should take the control and start implementing the emergency plan.

This is how I see it. Please comment.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 17, 2012, 10:40:58 PM
This is how I see it. Please comment.

Yes, that seems to make a lot of sense, and the possiblities seem very promising.  This is something I will definatley have to explore when I get the resources.  I think the WiFi uses those same pins (chip select, clock, MOSI, MISO), so I'm wondering if WiFi can be implemented on a slave and be able to control the master, and maybe have the transcievers on additonal slaves?  If I'm not mistaken, SD card also use those very same pins.  I would like to be able to use all three devices (WiFi, SD Card, and Transcievers), but if not, WiFi has priority...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 18, 2012, 08:25:48 AM
UPDATES: JARDUINO AQUARIUM CONTROLLER v1.2

I made a lot of changes with this upcoming release.  Here’s a comprehensive list:

Updates to Current Version (Jarduino Aquarium Controller v.1.2)
   • Added support for Arduino 1.0 IDE (Must use patched version)
   • Replaced the ITDB02_Graph16.h Library with UTFT.h Library by Henning Karlsen
   • Replaced Matt Joyce's DS1307 Library with Henning Karlsen's DS1307 Library
      - modified formatting in Karlsen's DS1307 Library
      - rewrote all RTC coding in sketch, based on Karlsen's "ITDB02_Analog_Clock"
      - added "Day of the Week" to the "Date & Time Bar."
      - fixed setting a date that does not exist possibility (ie. FEB 31, 2011)
   • Added 24 Hour Time formatting to the "Test LED Array Output Settings" screen
   • Modified "View/Change Moon LED Max Output"
      - Added pictures and the ability to set/save the Minimum Illumination
   • Replaced LED Output Testing "Widget" with "Slider Bars"
   • Upgraded "Change LED Output Values" page with "Slider Bars"
   • Included more Built-In Protections and Redundancies
   • Added an additional page of user settings including:
      - choice of showing the Day of the Week
      - setting the Fan(s) startup temperature
      - choosing to Dim the LEDs at user defined temperature & How much to Dim them
      - added four user-defined options to the Screensaver
   • Changed the look of some buttons as well as some other visual tweaks

Coming to Jarduino v.1.3
   • WiFi and possibly Android/iPhone App

Other Possible Developments to v.1.3 & Later
   • Improved User Interfaces (Main Screen Panels & Shortcuts)
   • Replace the ITDB02_Touch.h Library with the latest release (when available)
   • Random Weather (Clouds, Storms, etc. along with Increased Wave Action)
   • Real Weather (Mirror the real weather conditions from user-selected locations)
   • Modification of Wave Maker to include Tidal Forces with Lunar Cycle
   • Automatic Water Changer & Top Off
   • Inclusion of Other Sensors:
      - pH
      - Salinity
      - Calcium
      - Orp
   • Automatic Dosing
   • Wireless Peripherals


I thought it would be best to present a “Before & After” to best describe the majority of the changes.  So starting with the Time & Date Screen, here’s the Before:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169665730301/picture)

And here’s the After:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676172255730042/picture)
Ok, on the surface, it doesn’t look like that much was changed, but if you look closely, you’ll now see the day of the week printed out, and also the information that a change has occurred to the settings.  Also, the buttons have been changed.  That’s the visual stuff.  But also all the RTC coding had to be changed.  This was a real pain in the you know what, but I think it was well worth it.

Here’s a Before shot of General Settings Page:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676169732396961/picture)

Here’s an After shot of Page 1 of the Gen. Settings:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676172262396708/picture)
Notice that you can now display the Day of the Week at the bottom of the screen.  This will work with either calendar format you choose.  You may also notice another setting: Fan Startup Temps.  Pressing that button will bring up this page:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676172275730040/picture)
This page allows you to choose what temperature the PWM Fans will begin to turn on/off.  It is from that temperature that for every degree of temperature increase, the PWM fans will increase in speed by 10%. 

Here’s a pic of Page 2 of the General Settings:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676172329063368/picture)
As you can see, the Auto-Stop on Feed feature has been moved to this page.  So has the Screensaver, but this time you will notice an additional button to the Screensaver has been added: Settings.  Let’s see what you get when you press that:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676172332396701/picture)
From this screen, you can customize the screensaver.  First off, at the bottom section you can now choose how long it will take for the screensaver to come on.  You can select anywhere from 1 minute to 99 minutes.  Now, if you decided you just want a blank screen as a screensaver instead of a Digital Clock, no problem.  Just select it.  But if you decide you like the clock, you now have the ability to Display the Date along with the time.  Check it out:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676172359063365/picture)
Of course, whatever Calendar and Time Formats you choose will also be carried over to this screen.

The last new feature I added to the General Settings is the Dim LEDs Temp feature.  This is a built in safeguard that was added per several requests.  What it does is automatically dims the LEDs whenever your heatsink reaches a defined temperature.  This option is to obviously prevent your LEDs from getting too hot, which will lead to premature failure.  Like the Screensaver, you can choose whether or not to use this feature by selecting ON or OFF.  Selecting Change Temp, you will be brought to this screen:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676172402396694/picture)
It should go without saying by now, but in case you’re wondering, the temperature scale you chose from the General Settings: Page 1 will also be translated.  What you do here is select the temperature at which the failsafe will kick in.  For illustrative purposes, I chose 150 °F (out of a possible range of 0-255).  If and only if the temperature of the heatsink reaches the chosen value (I say heatsink because that’s the temperature I monitor, the one that says “Hood Temp” on the Main Screen), then ALL the LEDs will dim to 25% of their respective scheduled values (or whatever value you choose from 100% which of course would do nothing, all the way down to 0% which is completely off).  The LEDs will continue to remain dimmed until the temperature falls 5° below the set temp, at which time they will resume their normal schedule.  That is unless of course they reach that defined temp, then the whole cycle would repeat again.  If you use this and happen to notice this feature kicking in, then you should probably re-adjust your lighting values as most likely they are too high.  The other possibility is you need more heatsinking.  At any rate, I’ve been told that a good threshold to set this to would be around 60-70 °C (~140-160 °F).  I’ve said this in the past, but mine at their brightest are usually right around 38 °C (100 °F).

Well, for the most part that covers the changes I made to the General Settings.  But I didn’t stop there.  Under the LED Testing option and the sub-option Control Individual LEDs, I completely re-wrote the code for testing the LEDs.  You might recall this Before photo:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170079063593/picture)
I thought this was very nice when I first made it, and it worked fairly well.  But I quickly realized how cumbersome and tedious using it was.  So I decided to come up with something far easier and faster (not to program but to use of course).  Check out the After:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676172429063358/picture)
What you’re looking at here are touch screen slider bars and buttons.  Now you can just point, slide, or drag your finger up and down to quickly get a value, and the results are immediate.  You can even slide your finger in any pattern and get that result across all channels.  It took me all of 1 second to make ALL those colors go from 0 to the LEDs shining at the values depicted.  For further fine tuning, you can use the up and down buttons above each color.  Once you hit “EXIT,” you will leave that screen and the LEDs will resume their regular schedule.

Speaking of regular schedule, you might remember these next few pics of the Change LED Values screen and sub screens:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170149063586/picture)

(https://graph.facebook.com/676170245730243/picture)

(https://graph.facebook.com/676170112396923/picture)
That last pic of the Change LED Output Values is the one you should focus on.  That’s the Before shot, and it too got a major facelift.  Here’s the After:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676172539063347/picture)
You still select the two hour time frames from above, just like before, but like the LED Testing Page, it too now has sliders and buttons.  I included the little things here, like when you select the color, the slider bars and numbers will also be that color.  I have to say, this picture really doesn’t do it justice.  One really neat thing you can do is slide your finger across the top of all the time frames.  Doing so will quickly show a “graph” of your lighting schedule for the selected color.  I don’t know how else to explain it better than that, but once I get a video of my updates uploaded, you’ll see what I mean.

The last of the visual changes I made with Jarduino v1.2 is also on the Individual LED Outputs.  That would be the Lunar button.  Here’s the Before:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170135730254/picture)
I know, boring right?  Ok, now here’s the After:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676172545730013/picture)
You now have the ability to not only change the maximum value of the Lunar Cycle (aka Full Moon), but also define the minimum value (aka New Moon).  Now, your New Moon doesn’t have to be completely dark if you don’t want it to be.  And for some more visual appeal, I went ahead and threw in some nice moon pics right there on the screen.  Why not?

Oh, I think I forgot to mention something a few of you might be wondering.  What happens in the event of a power failure?  Well, I designed it so ALL of your preferences will be saved, so upon waking from such an event, the controller will remember what you like and pick up right where it left off (or rather right where it should be). 

I hope all of you like the changes I’ve introduced.  In a few short days, I will be releasing another video demonstrating what I just covered here.  Soon after that I will make available the code on my download page (http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/) to all of my donors.  I really appreciate all those who have helped make the development move along so quickly.  Next up: Jarduino v1.3 with WiFi!  I hope I can bring this next release to you sooner rather than later, but until then - ENJOY!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on May 18, 2012, 11:35:26 AM
Just got my **** around to donating budd

kev

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 18, 2012, 10:27:35 PM
I’m thinking the following information will be of use with the upcoming release of Jarduino v1.2. I will have it available for download on my download page by Sunday.  In this latest version I utilized the new UTFT Library in place of the old ITDB02_Graph16.  Using this UTFT Library is handled a little differently in the sketch.  Remember before when you used to have to modify this line in previous versions of the Jarduino sketch, depending on the LCD controller you have:

ITDB02  myGLCD(38,39,40,41);  //This format was for HX8347-A controllers
     -OR-
ITDB02  myGLCD(38,39,40,41, ITDB32S);  //This format was for the SSD1289


It is now like this:

UTFT myGLCD(ITDB32, 38,39,40,41);   //this line is for the HX8347-A
     -OR-
UTFT myGLCD(ITDB32S, 38,39,40,41);  //this line is for the SSD1289


For convenience, I included both lines.  So what you want to do here is, depending on the controller you have, put a comment “//” in front of the line of the controller you ARE NOT using.

Don’t know which one you have?  There’s an easy solution. All you have to do is upload the sketch with the comment marks in front of one line and leave the other line un-commented.  If after uploading the screen it is a whiteout, then just change the comment marks from one line to the other.  It should now work.  If you use different controller than the ones mentioned, let me know.

And btw, prior to uploading v1.2 it is best to clear the EEPROM.  Instructions on how to do so are located in the sketch right above the LED arrays: Lines 376-379.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on May 18, 2012, 11:20:00 PM
A question .....

I modified the jarduino sketch to work with my temp sensors et al, is there a way of reading the sketch from the arduino, so that I can recover the mac codes without having to re read them from each sensor.

As I mentioned in my build thread I lost all the jarduino customised sketch files.

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 19, 2012, 03:38:21 AM
A question .....

I modified the jarduino sketch to work with my temp sensors et al, is there a way of reading the sketch from the arduino, so that I can recover the mac codes without having to re read them from each sensor.

As I mentioned in my build thread I lost all the jarduino customised sketch files.

Sorry to hear about your computer problems and your terrible plane ride :-(  Hopefully you can get back into an upswing with a smooth Aquarium Light Build! 

I whipped up a quick little sketch for you that hopefully does the trick.  Unzip the archive and place it in you Arduino folder while the Arduino IDE is not open.  Next, open up the IDE and then open the sketch.  I assume your temp sensors are hooked up to pin 51, if they aren't, just change line 4 of the sketch from 51 to whatever pin it is you're using. I didn't test it, so I'm not sure it works, but it's worth a try...  Let me know how it works for you bud

EDIT - I just realized what you were asking, if you could read the sketch that's on the Arduino.  Sorry, it doesn't work that way.  The Arduino IDE "compiles" the sketch to machine code (0's and 1's) and puts it on the ATmega chip.  There's no useful de-compiler that I know of, and if so it would take you eons to figure out what all the jibberish it would spit back at you means.  What I provided you with should pull off the addresses not from the sketch but from the sensors themselves (so long as they are hooked up properly), then all you have to do is write those addresses down and keep them in a safe place that's free from viruses. 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 19, 2012, 08:46:56 AM
Good news, I finished testing of Jarduino v1.2 a little bit sooner than expected.  Everything seems to be running as it should, so I’m releasing it now.  Get your copy today! (http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on May 19, 2012, 09:19:10 AM
Great stuff and great idea about the password was going to mention something along the same lines

regards

kev

Oh had to use the clear eeprom to get the led values showing up again budd so other users might have to do the same just a heads up
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on May 19, 2012, 12:13:31 PM

EDIT - I just realized what you were asking, if you could read the sketch that's on the Arduino.  Sorry, it doesn't work that way.  The Arduino IDE "compiles" the sketch to machine code (0's and 1's) and puts it on the ATmega chip.  There's no useful de-compiler that I know of, and if so it would take you eons to figure out what all the jibberish it would spit back at you means.  What I provided you with should pull off the addresses not from the sketch but from the sensors themselves (so long as they are hooked up properly), then all you have to do is write those addresses down and keep them in a safe place that's free from viruses.

I pretty much guessed that it wasn't simple to read the sketch back into the arduino software and be readable. I'll just hook each one up individually and read the code so that I can identify each sensor.

Thanks for your help
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 19, 2012, 09:21:05 PM
I pretty much guessed that it wasn't simple to read the sketch back into the arduino software and be readable. I'll just hook each one up individually and read the code so that I can identify each sensor.

Thanks for your help

Or, if you use the code I wrote you (considering it works lol), you can do all 3 at the same time.  You can easily identify which one's which by just holding 1 in between your fingers.  The one that increases in temp will indicate what address belongs to the one you're holding, assuming your body temp and the room temp aren't the same.  If so, then blow some compressed air on it, and the one that lowers in temp....
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 19, 2012, 09:36:37 PM
svyaz discovered a small bug in 1.2 beta.  The fix is trivial:

     On Line 4134: Change “dispScreen=15;” to “dispScreen=19;”


He also asked about the slight slowdown in speed, and was wondering if it was due to lack of resources (if the program was too large).  I told him this is definately not the case, as there's still ~88,000 bytes left.  The slight slowdown you may notice is a result of replacing the ITDB02_Graph16.h Library with UTFT.h Library by Henning Karlsen.  I too noticed this when I first swiched over to it as well, and contacted Henning.  He claims the slowdown is most likely due to UTFT supporting so many other controllers.  I swithced to UTFT because 1) Graph16 is no longer supported, 2) Graph16 isn't compatible with Arduino 1.0, 3) UTFT is compatible and supported, 4) UTFT is more stable & Robust, and 5) You can use more than just the HX8347-A or the SSD1289.  If you ask me, a sacrifice of a few milliseconds in speed for increased stability, more compatibility, and future upgradability is well worth it...

Anyway, Please let me know if you spot any other issues, or just comment on how you're liking (or disliking) the changes.

Cheers!
Jamie
     
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on May 19, 2012, 09:41:12 PM

Or, if you use the code I wrote you (considering it works lol), you can do all 3 at the same time.  You can easily identify which one's which by just holding 1 in between your fingers.  The one that increases in temp will indicate what address belongs to the one you're holding, assuming your body temp and the room temp aren't the same.  If so, then blow some compressed air on it, and the one that lowers in temp....

All done now, re-read each individual sensor using the address finder.

I'm now using the v1.2, it didn't go smoothly, none of it due to your sketch I must add.

After reading all the sensor addresses I decided to connect 3 of them, THEN I decided to try the v1.2, the arduino com port wasn't available with windows 7 64 bit, so I then went down the route of "Arduino v1 issues with windows 7 64 bit" drivers etc etc.

After much frustration  :41: I eventually traced it to one of the sensors being connected wrongly positive to negative and vice versa.

So one to watch out for.

V1.2 Jarduino is very good great job Jamie. I'm machining the pcb now to control the dimming with meanwells.

Just as I went to post I notice there is a small change needed - what is the effect of the change
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 19, 2012, 09:52:36 PM
...I eventually traced it to one of the sensors being connected wrongly positive to negative and vice versa.

So one to watch out for.

Good advice.  They are very sensitive, and hooking them up incorrectly can destroy them in no time.  On a positive note, if you do happen to fry one, they don't take up much space in the garbage lol.

Quote
... I notice there is a small change needed - what is the effect of the change

The change is not "needed" per se, it's just a small annoyance.  It's when you hit the "ABOUT" screen.  After doing such, if you hit "<<  BACK" it will not take you back, but rather take you to Page 1 of the "General Settings."  All you have to do to fix this is change "15" to "19" on the line I specified. 

Can't wait for you to get your LEDs hooked up Ian.  Keep me posted as to your progress...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on May 19, 2012, 10:20:19 PM
The change is not "needed" per se, it's just a small annoyance.  It's when you hit the "ABOUT" screen.  After doing such, if you hit "<<  BACK" it will not take you back, but rather take you to Page 1 of the "General Settings."  All you have to do to fix this is change "15" to "19" on the line I specified. 

Can't wait for you to get your LEDs hooked up Ian.  Keep me posted as to your progress...

Minor change, i'll do that later.

I've just finished machining the dimming pcb for my setup, about to post a pic in my thread.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: jpb83 on May 19, 2012, 11:54:25 PM
Hello Everybody
When I was using Jarduino v1.0,I had to change "S" for "WC" to get it working  : ITDB02   myGLCD(38,39,40,41,ITDB32WC)  now with Jarduino v1.2, when I first uploaded the new sketch,I got a white screen,so I tried "WC" instead of "S" with no results: same white screen 
Am I missing something ,or is my ITDB too old for UTFT or V1.2? From the pdf files I think it's a 3.2 400x240 ILI9327, I got it from Itead few months ago (maybe 8 or 9).
Could somebody help me to get the right settings?
Thanks     Regards  jean pierre

 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: svyaz on May 20, 2012, 12:06:31 AM
hi Jean Pierre

try this  myGLCD(38,39,40,41,TFT01_32W)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: jpb83 on May 20, 2012, 12:20:25 AM
Hello svyaz
Thanks for this quick answer but it's no good ,I've no errors but my screen is still white
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: svyaz on May 20, 2012, 12:47:17 AM
I have another version of if does not work wait for Jamie UTFT myGLCD(ILI9327,38,39,40,41)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: jpb83 on May 20, 2012, 12:58:01 AM
Thanks again svyaz,  but still not working ,anyway it's quite late now ,my eyes are fadding ,good night . jean pierre
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 20, 2012, 05:27:04 AM
Hello Everybody
When I was using Jarduino v1.0,I had to change "S" for "WC" to get it working  : ITDB02   myGLCD(38,39,40,41,ITDB32WC)  now with Jarduino v1.2, when I first uploaded the new sketch,I got a white screen,so I tried "WC" instead of "S" with no results: same white screen 
Am I missing something ,or is my ITDB too old for UTFT or V1.2? From the pdf files I think it's a 3.2 400x240 ILI9327, I got it from Itead few months ago (maybe 8 or 9).
Could somebody help me to get the right settings?
Thanks     Regards  jean pierre

Hi Jean Pierre,

Sorry if you wasted too much time with this.  I mistakenly assumed that everyone using my prgram would either be using the HX8347A or the SSD1289.  I therefore disabled support for the other controllers.  I did this to reduce the memory footprint of the UTFT Library by several kB's.  But the good news is you can definately use the ILI9327, all you have to do is re-enable it.  Here's How:

  1) Close the Ardunio IDE 1.0 if it is currently running.
  2) Open this file using either WordPad, or NotePad, or some other editor  ...\arduino-1.0-Jarduino\libraries\UTFT\memorysaver.h
  3) Put a comment "//" in front of the controller you are using.  You can uncomment any controller that you are not using to further reduce the memory footprint.
  4) Save the file.
  5) Open Arduinio 1.0 and the Jarduino Sketch, then edit it in the following way:
       - Assuming you have the ILI9327, edit LINE 147 so it now reads: UTFT myGLCD(ITDB32WC, 38,39,40,41);     
       - LINE 148 should be commented "//" so it is all in grey.
       - Upload and enjoy all the wonderous joy Jarduino 1.2 has to offer

Note the change "ITDB32WC" to the left of ,38,39,40,41).  That is for the ILI9327.  At the bottom of this post is a detailed list of all the controllers UTFT supports, and by extension the Jarduino v1.2.  The codes you may need are listed under "Arduino Code for UTFT()" beside the corresonding controllers.  Please note that the Jarduino is specifically formatted for Touch Screen LCDs that are 320x240, so there are several more than just those three that it should work with.

EDIT: Not sure what happened with the attachment.  Here's an annotated list:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676798862334048/picture)

For a full list of compatible controllers, check out the PDF in the UTFT Library .
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: jpb83 on May 20, 2012, 10:49:57 AM
Hello
Thanks for your reply, ,I tried what you told me to ,I also cleared the Eeprom (just in case?) reloaded the v1.2 : no change :still white screen  ,Then  I came back to  V1 ,it's  working  (I checked build date behind the screen :11/08 ,not so old
If you have others tips I can try before buying a new one with latest  chip, you are welcome
Thanks again  jean pierre
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: jpb83 on May 20, 2012, 12:36:30 PM
Hello again
I reset everything ,re-installed v1.2 on my pc ,re load the mega and it's working !! just a few adjustments must be made in "touch" file to fine tune my touch screen.
thanks a lot  jean pierre
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on May 21, 2012, 12:18:38 AM
I have made up the pcb to dim the RB/BL/CW/NW/WW via meanwells - see my thread

I have ordered the dimming boards for the UV and ML,how do I connect them or is there anything in particular I need to do to get them to work with the Jarduino sketch.

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 21, 2012, 12:37:37 AM
I'm not sure what "dimming boards" your are referring to.  The Jarduino will simply output the 0-255 on all the LED pins as specified in the sketch, with pins 12 & 13 assigned to the UV & ML's respectively.  They should be hooked up the same as your other LEDs (your blues and whites, etc.).  So all you need from the Arduino is a hookup to the specific pins for the LEDs and the GND to the LED driver. 

For me, I have AC power from my house going into an AC/DC power supply, DC power from the Power supply to the LED Drivers (I used Power LED shields w/ RECOM drivers), and LEDs hooked up to the LED drivers, with the LED pins and GND from the Arduino hooked up to the LED Drivers.  Not sure if this helps, but here's that schematic of mine again from page 3 of this thread:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170489063552/picture)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on May 21, 2012, 12:56:26 AM
Here's what I ordered

3w
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3w-LED-Driver-MBI6651-based-Luxeon-White-Green-Blue-/221016934764?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item3375a2c96c

1w
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Power-1W-LED-Driver-/370609562016?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item564a0d21a0


Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on May 21, 2012, 06:22:49 AM
You wire the drivers as stated power in and then the led power, you then add the arduino pwm feed don't forget you have to link the neutrals from the PSU to the arduino PSU before the pwm dimmer budd
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 21, 2012, 08:53:54 AM
You wire the drivers as stated power in and then the led power, you then add the arduino pwm feed don't forget you have to link the neutrals from the PSU to the arduino PSU before the pwm dimmer budd

You use these particular drivers in at least one of your LED builds, right Kev?  Any complaints?  The prices are dirt cheap!

BTW, along with the Arduino pwm pins, where should Ian hook the GND from the Arduino? Or does the neutrals from the Arduino PSU take care of that?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on May 21, 2012, 09:01:57 AM
Had no issues at all with them got the 10w one running at 34v and it giving 1600ma and 33v to the 36v 1700ma led

The ground just link all the psus ground/neutrals together, so where the 2.1mm jack goes in to the arduino link the neutral from there to the psu that supply's the led or link from any arduino ground pin

The only reason i looked at them was because of the 1700ma and 35v led i needed to dim at the time i couldn't find anything else to do the job, at the min i am using on the main build 5 x 10w 2 x 5w 2 x 3w and 1x1w of the led pwm drivers and on the frag tank 2x5w 1x3w 1x1w

I have had two blow up but that was my fault for shorting the circuit pins on the bottom on the pwm drivers to the earthed metal casing opps
Kev
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: wgraham on May 21, 2012, 08:58:46 PM
will this also work with 2.4 touchscreens
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 21, 2012, 09:16:33 PM
will this also work with 2.4 touchscreens

What are the pixel dimensions, and what is the controller model?  The interface is designed to work with 320x240 pixels. 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: wgraham on May 21, 2012, 10:11:19 PM
it is 320 x 240 have to get the model when get home
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on May 21, 2012, 10:38:55 PM
Thanks for the info guys, i'll re read when i'm ready to connect up, sounds fairly straightforward
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: wgraham on May 22, 2012, 12:48:08 AM
the controller model is a xpt2046 and thanks for your replies just wondering could I hook this up since I have one until I get the 3.2 touch
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 22, 2012, 05:54:37 AM
the controller model is a xpt2046 and thanks for your replies just wondering could I hook this up since I have one until I get the 3.2 touch

As far as I know the only 2.4" LCD's that will work with the Jarduino are the ILI9325C & ILI9325D.  Sometimes these controllers can be sold by different manufacturers/suppliers under different model numbers, so it still may work.  Worth a try right?  If you want to try it with the Jarduino v1.1, only the ILI9325D is compatible.  Replace line 92 with this:  ITDB02 myGLCD(38,39,40,41,TFT01_24);

With Jarduino v1.2, both C & D are compatible, but you'll have to alter a file first by putting comments "//" in front of the controllers you wish to use:  ...\arduino-1.0-Jarduino\libraries\UTFT\memorysaver.h

Then in Jarduino v1.2 sketch, For ILI9325C Replace line 147 with this:  UTFT myGLCD(ITDB24, 38,39,40,41);
Or for ILI9325D, replace that same line with this: UTFT myGLCD(ITDB24D, 38,39,40,41);, or if that doesn't work you can try this: UTFT myGLCD(ITDB24DWOT, 38,39,40,41);, and one last ditch effort, you can try this: UTFT myGLCD(TFT01_24_16, 38,39,40,41);
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: wgraham on May 23, 2012, 01:50:36 PM
Tried it and didn't work will be donating to help you improve this control and hopefully I can get it to work with Jarduino v1.2 and thanks for your help
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: wgraham on May 24, 2012, 02:40:33 AM
do the LCD have to be from istore I have a 3.2 lcd and using the Jarduino v1.1 getting white screen also on the back of the LCD pins are going  1 to 20 from bottom and 40 to 21 from the bottom
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 24, 2012, 03:44:44 AM
do the LCD have to be from istore I have a 3.2 lcd and using the Jarduino v1.1 getting white screen also on the back of the LCD pins are going  1 to 20 from bottom and 40 to 21 from the bottom

It doesn't have to be from istore.  Do you know the controller number for the LCD?

It might help if you give me the link where you purchased it.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: wgraham on May 24, 2012, 01:43:47 PM
here is the link    (http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/3.2TFT_LCD)   the chip on the board is xpt2046, I also order one from this site  (http://www.ebay.com/itm/280498104837?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649) this one hasn't arrive yet.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 24, 2012, 05:39:46 PM
here is the link    (http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/3.2TFT_LCD)   the chip on the board is xpt2046, I also order one from this site  (http://www.ebay.com/itm/280498104837?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649) this one hasn't arrive yet.

Both of those LCD screens have the SSD1289 controller, and should be completely compatible with Jarduino.  So for:

Jarduino v1.1 use this on line 92: ITDB02 myGLCD(38,39,40,41,ITDB32S); or try ITDB02 myGLCD(38,39,40,41,TFT01_32);

---or---

Jarduino v1.2 use this on line 147: UTFT myGLCD(ITDB32S, 38,39,40,41); or try ITDB02 myGLCD(TFT01_32, 38,39,40,41);
Make sure line 148 is commented out "//"
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 24, 2012, 07:23:20 PM
A few people asked about the decrease in speed w/ v1.2, and I correctly attributed it to a change in one of the libraries.  Well, I got the old graph16 library and v1.2 working well together, and it is once again running superfast.  It does have less compatibility and is somewhat less stable than the UTFT library, but if the demand is high enough, I will post v1.2 on my download page with the old library.

Here is a list of the only LCD controllers it woud be compatible with:


UPDATE to v1.3:  Progress has been slow with the WiFi.  I've had numerous compatibility issues with what router it works with.  I eventually found a list of compatible routers (http://www.linksprite.com/article/shownews.php?lang=en&id=54) (which I didn't know existed before ordering).  I'm thinking I may have to purchase a new router just to determine if the WiFi shield I purchased even works!  I think for now, I should just order an ethernet shield and go from there.  I hear Arduino will be releasing an officail WiFi shield soon, so I imagine that if I get an ethernet shield for now, and then later get the WiFi shield, altering code would be kept at a minimum.  Knowing me, however, I'll probably get both a new router and the ethernet shield...

BTW, if anyone has any experience with any of the routers on that list, let me know which one you think is the best
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on May 24, 2012, 08:10:53 PM
I would go with any of the routers that run on DD-WRT.
I am presently using the cheapish Dlink DIR-615. I installed DD-WRT on it and since that it works flawlessly. The list, however, mentions that this router is compatible with factory firmware, I am not sure it will be compatible with DD-WRT on it (although this is highly probable). Otherwise, any Linksys routers with DD-WRT are very good.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 24, 2012, 10:00:00 PM
I got enough PM's to justify uploading the Jarduino v1.2 with the old Graph16 Library.  It's now ready for your downloading pleasure (http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/)!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on May 24, 2012, 10:56:42 PM
I might add a few more of the temp sensors, "just because I can", Is there much involved in changing the sketch to include more sensors.

How did you fix your sensor to the heatsink - too many pages to re read  :c023:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 24, 2012, 11:44:30 PM
More sensors for the heatsink? Would be easy enough. You could have have one sensor per heatsink, and decide which two temp readouts would control the fans, since I'm assuming you won't be controlling a sump lighting fixture.

I attached the sensors using a piece of perfboard (with the legs of the sensor running through the perfboard), and the assembly wedged in between the fins of the heatsink. I then used a dab of thermal adhesive to make sure the sensor makes contact with the heatsink.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on May 24, 2012, 11:56:47 PM
More sensors for the heatsink? Would be easy enough. You could have have one sensor per heatsink, and decide which two temp readouts would control the fans, since I'm assuming you won't be controlling a sump lighting fixture.

I attached the sensors using a piece of perfboard (with the legs of the sensor running through the perfboard), and the assembly wedged in between the fins of the heatsink. I then used a dab of thermal adhesive to make sure the sensor makes contact with the heatsink.

I have no plans to include a sump light, so could use the code and reassign to another sensor. Because of the length of the heatsink at 48" I feel that it might be better to have a couple of sensors to check against localised temp build up. I'll see what way I can attach the sensores to the fin, and i'll use thermal paste as you recommend.

I've just re read some sections of your build again, I notice you use side vents, and pull the airflow up with the fan and expel. I've read it's preferable to push the air down on to the heatsink, whats your opinion, or didn't I read enough sections.

Where did you source the vents, real nice and clean looking.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: wgraham on May 25, 2012, 12:55:40 AM
Got the LCD working with the Jarduino v1.1 with no problem,  when uploading the Jarduino v1.2 it uploads fine but when I tried to go thur the menus it just go to the same home screen.  Also just tried your new version and get the same.  I can go back to the v1.1 and everything works alright.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 25, 2012, 01:49:52 AM
I have no plans to include a sump light, so could use the code and reassign to another sensor. Because of the length of the heatsink at 48" I feel that it might be better to have a couple of sensors to check against localised temp build up. I'll see what way I can attach the sensores to the fin, and i'll use thermal paste as you recommend.

I could rewrite the code for you so it averages the temperature across as many temp sensors as you would like to add.  You're a big contributor, so I don't mind.  Just let me know how many temp sensors you want to add.  We can just leave the sump stuff alone, in case you change your mind.  You know, future build when you get bored after you complete this project  :97:

Quote
I've just re read some sections of your build again, I notice you use side vents, and pull the airflow up with the fan and expel. I've read it's preferable to push the air down on to the heatsink, whats your opinion, or didn't I read enough sections.

Where did you source the vents, real nice and clean looking.

I'm sure either way would be ok.  The way I designed mine, it being a closed system and all, I think it's best to pull the air in from the corners, across the heatsink, and out of the top.  Works like a charm for me, and like I said, my temp at the highest gets right around 38 °C (100 °F).

Just like all the wood I used, I got those vents from my father, who used them for vents for his attic.  He had a bunch left over, so I snagged them up.  He said he got them from some hardware store that has long since closed it's doors.  He's been around for quite a while now, so his memory isn't always spot on.  He could have made them for all he knows...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 25, 2012, 01:53:37 AM
Got the LCD working with the Jarduino v1.1 with no problem,  when uploading the Jarduino v1.2 it uploads fine but when I tried to go thur the menus it just go to the same home screen.  Also just tried your new version and get the same.  I can go back to the v1.1 and everything works alright.

It is best to clear the EEPROM before uploading the new sketch. To CLEAR EEPROM, use
...arduino-1.0-Jarduino\libraries\EEPROM\examples\eeprom_clear.ino

Make sure in the Clear EEPROM sketch, change the 512 to 4096. After uploading, wait for the LED to light up on the Arduino. This will take approximately 10 seconds. You are now ok to upload Jarduino v1.2.

In case you're wondering, EEPROM is the internal memory of the Arduino.  Since v1.2 has many more things it remembers as compared to v1.2, some of the values it reads is from the old v1.1, so it's getting the wrong information.  Clearing the EEPROM will fix this.

Cheers!
 Jamie
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: wgraham on May 25, 2012, 02:05:11 AM
Works like a charm,  thanks for all your help and I will kept on contributing, I think this is one of the nicest controller out there and kept the good work up
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on May 25, 2012, 09:35:33 AM
I could rewrite the code for you so it averages the temperature across as many temp sensors as you would like to add.  You're a big contributor, so I don't mind.  Just let me know how many temp sensors you want to add.  We can just leave the sump stuff alone, in case you change your mind.  You know, future build when you get bored after you complete this project  :97:

I was thinking more of an option to display a couple more sensors, theres a wee bit of free space below the sensor temps on the screen  :97: or have you plans for there.

Quote

I'm sure either way would be ok.  The way I designed mine, it being a closed system and all, I think it's best to pull the air in from the corners, across the heatsink, and out of the top.  Works like a charm for me, and like I said, my temp at the highest gets right around 38 °C (100 °F).

Just like all the wood I used, I got those vents from my father, who used them for vents for his attic.  He had a bunch left over, so I snagged them up.  He said he got them from some hardware store that has long since closed it's doors.  He's been around for quite a while now, so his memory isn't always spot on.  He could have made them for all he knows...

Considering that the generated heat tends to rise, then it would make sense to draw fresh air from the sides and expel vertically, just another thing to think about for me then.

The vents are a nice finished look, i'll keep looking.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 25, 2012, 06:05:30 PM
I was thinking more of an option to display a couple more sensors, theres a wee bit of free space below the sensor temps on the screen or have you plans for there.

That space is already taken.  Check out these photos from nearly 1 year ago:
What happens when the water gets too COLD:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676799939000607/picture)

What happens when the water gets too HOT:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676800935667174/picture)

Since these photos were taken, that so callled "available space" has actually decreased further.  Notice that in those pics the percentage of moon phase isn't printed out.  Well, since it now is, it has pushed everything down by a line.  But, you could still use that space if you like (or anywhere else for that matter); in the event of an alarm, it would just overwrite the temp-readouts.  I was thinking that if I were to add more sensors (pH, salinity, calcium, etc.), then I would utilize that area, but that's not for a while... 

HOW MANY SENSORS ARE YOU WANTING TO ADD?  You have to decide which temp sensor out of as many you would want add controls the fans.  You could go about this a number of ways.  1) You could have a dedicated sensor for control, 2) you can average all the sensors you decide to add (and from that number control the fans), or 3) you could just go off of the highest/lowest values from any given sensor, and 4) there's several other options (whatever else you can think of or would prefer).  Personally, If I were to add several sensors, I would probably take an average...  Keep in mind, given the current setup, you really can't have more than two seperate controllers for fans due to the availabilty of pwm pins. 

I was thinking you could just rotate the temperatures in place.  Where it says hood temp, it can display that for say 5 seconds, then display another temp, then another, etc., and then back to the original.  Just another thought, but you still have to choose how many and which one(s) control the fans.  Let me know what you decide or if you need help with the coding...

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: wgraham on May 25, 2012, 08:55:17 PM
Could you just use another screen to show all sensors and probes
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 25, 2012, 09:17:26 PM
Could you just use another screen to show all sensors and probes

I assume you mean the same screen, but a different page?  Sure, no problem.  You could do another physical screen as well, if you take another arduino and use it as a slave, then you could use an unlimited amount of screens :-)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: wgraham on May 25, 2012, 09:19:33 PM
yes I meant a different page, dual screens would be nice
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on May 25, 2012, 11:41:35 PM
That space is already taken.  Check out these photos from nearly 1 year ago:
What happens when the water gets too COLD:
What happens when the water gets too HOT:
Since these photos were taken, that so callled "available space" has actually decreased further.  Notice that in those pics the percentage of moon phase isn't printed out.  Well, since it now is, it has pushed everything down by a line.  But, you could still use that space if you like (or anywhere else for that matter); in the event of an alarm, it would just overwrite the temp-readouts.  I was thinking that if I were to add more sensors (pH, salinity, calcium, etc.), then I would utilize that area, but that's not for a while... 
HOW MANY SENSORS ARE YOU WANTING TO ADD?  You have to decide which temp sensor out of as many you would want add controls the fans.  You could go about this a number of ways.  1) You could have a dedicated sensor for control, 2) you can average all the sensors you decide to add (and from that number control the fans), or 3) you could just go off of the highest/lowest values from any given sensor, and 4) there's several other options (whatever else you can think of or would prefer).  Personally, If I were to add several sensors, I would probably take an average...  Keep in mind, given the current setup, you really can't have more than two seperate controllers for fans due to the availabilty of pwm pins. 

I was thinking you could just rotate the temperatures in place.  Where it says hood temp, it can display that for say 5 seconds, then display another temp, then another, etc., and then back to the original.  Just another thought, but you still have to choose how many and which one(s) control the fans.  Let me know what you decide or if you need help with the coding...

I didn't realise you had already allocated the space, no big deal, thought I was availing of an opportunity. Gues as I haven't got a live system, I haven't experienced the alarms  :97:

I like the idea of 3 constant monitoring temps, I had thought that it would be "NICE" to utilise the free space to monitor more, but as the space is alocated then it's a no go.

I'll consider it more when I get the build up and runnign and start to think about customisation.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: lesd on May 27, 2012, 05:55:52 PM
Hi all,

Firstable, sorry for my english speaking, I'm French
I read this very interesting thread and I'm thinking using this controller to manage my tank.

I've already done a DIY Led, http://www.atoll-ra.fr/index.php?topic=7155.0 (http://www.atoll-ra.fr/index.php?topic=7155.0) in french...
My question is about the materials needed "ITDB02 Arduino MEGA Shield v1.1" is not still available --> iteadstudio.com

Is there is some compatibility with the V2, an updated post with right links will be useful  ???

thanks for answer.

Lesd
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 27, 2012, 06:24:14 PM
My question is about the materials needed "ITDB02 Arduino MEGA Shield v1.1" is not still available --> iteadstudio.com

They stopped selling them fulling assembled, but still offer the MEGA Shield v1.1 as a kit (http://iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=236).  At this time, there appears to be 22 units in stock.

Quote
Is there is some compatibility with the V2, an updated post with right links will be useful  ???

I personally have used the v2 with no problems at all.  If using the v2, you will have to add a Real Time Clock (RTC) circuit.  An easy way is to use a DS1307, a CR2032 Battery Holder, a 32.768KHz Crystal Oscillator, and a few misc. resistors. 

Good luck with your upgrade.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: lesd on May 27, 2012, 07:25:59 PM
Many Thanks,

I've never solder by myselft..., but i'll try.
For the LCD, I will order this one http://iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=57_58&products_id=54 (http://iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=57_58&products_id=54) and for the arduino http://iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=50_51&products_id=207 (http://iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=50_51&products_id=207) this pne, correct ?

Is this configuration would work with this power shield V2 http://www.chestersgarage.com/new-store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=6 (http://www.chestersgarage.com/new-store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=6) ? I'll only use the Led functionalities

Lesd
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 27, 2012, 08:13:02 PM
For the LCD, I will order this one http://iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=57_58&products_id=54 (http://iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=57_58&products_id=54)

Yes, that's fine.

Quote
...and for the arduino http://iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=50_51&products_id=207 (http://iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=50_51&products_id=207) this pne, correct ?

No, you need the 2560.  I'm sure you can find a lower price, but get this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/MEGA-2560-ATmega8U2-Board-compatible-with-IDE-Free-USB-Cable-/270982002981?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f17c93925).  It's about 1/3 the price as the 2560 that's for sale on itead.

Quote
Is this configuration would work with this power shield V2 http://www.chestersgarage.com/new-store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=6 (http://www.chestersgarage.com/new-store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=6) ? I'll only use the Led functionalities

Yes, In fact I use those and am extremely pleased with their ease of hookup and performance (see page 3 of this thread if you need help in hooking them up).  Or, if you have any other questions regarding the Powershield V2's (http://www.chestersgarage.com/new-store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=6), don't be shy in asking Mark Chester (mark@chesterfamily.org) any questions regarding your build.  He's a good guy, and an expert in all things LEDs.  I used the 1200 mA RECOMs LED drivers for my CREE-XPG White LEDs, and 1000 mA RECOMs for the different CREE-XRE Blues, and 700mA RECOMs for the moon, red, and uv's. 

EDIT: I changed the link for the MEGA 2560, as it was pointed out that the seller had a low feedback rating.  I replaced it with a much more reputable seller.  I'm not endorsing any particular seller, I'm just trying to help you guys out with getting the right stuff at a good price.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: lesd on May 27, 2012, 09:39:56 PM
 :c017:
I've already contacted Mark, currently in discussion, super guy !
I will give you project news

Lesd
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on May 28, 2012, 10:02:45 PM
No, you need the 2560.  I'm sure you can find a lower price, but get this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/MEGA-2560-ATmega8U2-Board-For-ARDUINOs-IDE-Free-USB-Cable-new-fast-shipping-/120915705878?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item1c27234016).  It's about 1/3 the price as the 2560 that's for sale on itead.
I'd be very careful concerning that particular seller on eBay. His rating score is only 80% which is a VERY low figure and if you read his feedback all the buyers who ordered Arduino from him are dissatisfied. Beware.

Here is another listing (http://www.ebay.com/itm/MEGA-2560-ATmega8U2-Board-ARDUINOs-IDE-Free-USB-Cable-/110886856229?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D5%26pmod%3D261006713117%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8742580812571727724) with 100% feedback score - it is much better to buy from this seller and the price is virtually the same.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on May 28, 2012, 10:33:41 PM
Well spotted as above his last 8 feedback are all negative you might as well just burn the cash
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 29, 2012, 01:38:33 AM
Oops, my bad lesd.  Wasn't paying attention.  Hopefully you didn't buy from that seller.  This one seems much better (http://www.ebay.com/itm/MEGA-2560-ATmega8U2-Board-compatible-with-IDE-Free-USB-Cable-/270982002981?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f17c93925). 

I replaced the link in post#260 above with a much more reputable seller.  Thanks to vahegan for noticing.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on May 29, 2012, 08:12:56 AM
Hi Jamie,

Re: the wireless modular approach we discussed earlier.

Just found out from someone visiting InterZoo 2012 in Nurnberg that Vertex presented a product with very similar functionality as we discussed. although, I must admit, at a much complicated level (the device runs Android, sporting an ARM Cortex-A8 CPU running at 800MHz, and 512Mb RAM). It is a an aquarium controller with touchscreen, hosting a web server to be controlled remotely through the Internet or Intranet through a PC, or an Apple or Android device. It hosts an SD card reader, USB, bluetooth, Zig-Bee, and GSM. It is also capable of controlling wirelessly various Vertex devices, such as LED fixtures, dosing pumps and even an aquarium webcam. The device also monitors various pH, ORP, conductivity, etc. You can read here about Vertex Cerebra (http://reefbuilders.com/2011/02/17/vertex-aquaristik-cerebra-android-app-store/). Another description is available here (http://reefbuilders.com/2011/09/19/vertex-cerebra/), including some board pictures etc. If I get it right, initially they planned a 7" capacitive touchscreen but for the time being they are going to manufacture it with a resistive 3.5" screen.

Maybe we can steal an idea or two from them, but at the first glance, we already covered all major things in our discussions earlier.

I believe that if we ever want to expand the functionality of Jarduino to include a webcam or other resource-hungry applications, we may consider mating it with a cheap Raspberry Pi board with an ARM and a powerful FPU onboard.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: lesd on May 29, 2012, 02:10:44 PM
Hi all,

Thanks for your alerts concerning ebay vendor.
I've contacted Mark for the compatibility of his Fan/Temp Proto shield (chestersgarage), it's seems not working with the jarduino & Mega Arduino board.

So, I have the solution to always switch one Fans from 8H to 20H for cooling heatsink.. but not very interresting.

What i would like to do is controlling:
- water temperature and activate Fans if necessary, necessity to have a temperature sensor and a 12V ou 24V output voltage for Fans.
- Heatsink temperature and activate Fans for the Leds, (like water temperature for the materials)

I will use a 36V, 4.5A for the power supply connected to the power Led shield V2.

With this configuration, I must build a specific board, but i'm very novice in electronic. Perhaps some assembled shields available or somebody can explain me or send me a very basic scheme  to do that

Many thanks.

Lesd

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 29, 2012, 06:13:22 PM
Hi all,

Thanks for your alerts concerning ebay vendor.
I've contacted Mark for the compatibility of his Fan/Temp Proto shield (chestersgarage), it's seems not working with the jarduino & Mega Arduino board.

So, I have the solution to always switch one Fans from 8H to 20H for cooling heatsink.. but not very interresting.

What i would like to do is controlling:
- water temperature and activate Fans if necessary, necessity to have a temperature sensor and a 12V ou 24V output voltage for Fans.
- Heatsink temperature and activate Fans for the Leds, (like water temperature for the materials)

I will use a 36V, 4.5A for the power supply connected to the power Led shield V2.

With this configuration, I must build a specific board, but i'm very novice in electronic. Perhaps some assembled shields available or somebody can explain me or send me a very basic scheme  to do that

Many thanks.

Lesd

Everything you've mention here is already nicely handled by the Jarduino.  Go back and re-read pages 1-3 of this thread, you shall find the answers you're looking for.  In particular, page 3 covers the electronics (how the fans are PWM controlled in relation to the amount of heat, how the PowerLed shields are hooked up, even controlling a heater/chiller).  It's all there bud. 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on May 29, 2012, 06:40:47 PM
You can read here about Vertex Cerebra (http://reefbuilders.com/2011/02/17/vertex-aquaristik-cerebra-android-app-store/).

Wow!  This is the first I've heard of that thing.  It is truly amazing!  Hopefully the Jarduino will get there someday...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: lesd on May 30, 2012, 07:53:38 AM
 :c023:

I'vn't take time to read, but you're right, sorry.

Lesd
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: lesd on June 03, 2012, 07:30:21 PM
Hi all,

I just made order for all components, now i'm waiting to be delivered  >:D
I 'll keep you informed ! I hope it will not be too difficult for me with electronics....

Lesd From France
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on June 11, 2012, 10:53:11 PM
Jamie can you check something out please on v2 sketch, the led over temp dimming, as soon as i out the leds to go to 20% when the temp hits 40deg even at 25 deg it goes down to 20% might be a glitch on mine, i love the way the lunar lights flash when uploading sketches its a pitta on mine as i cant see the arduino board but seeing the leds do that i know its uploading.

Maybe another edition in the v3 a simple on - off for a calcium reactor or can do it day time on night time off

Keep up the fantastic work

Kev
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on June 12, 2012, 03:42:53 PM
Jamie can you check something out please on v2 sketch, the led over temp dimming, as soon as i out the leds to go to 20% when the temp hits 40deg even at 25 deg it goes down to 20% might be a glitch on mine

What exactly do you mean when you say "as soon as i out the leds?" Give me a little more info, and I'll take a look at it on mine later tonight and see if I can replicate that error.  ALSO, let me know what version of Jarduino you're using (with UTFT or Graph16).

In the meantime, you may try clearing the EEPROM yet once again and see if that fixes it.  Most, if not all of the settings relies on the EEPROM, so if the stored values get out of order, then the program can/will in turn act out of order.

Quote
i love the way the lunar lights flash when uploading sketches its a pitta on mine as i cant see the arduino board but seeing the leds do that i know its uploading.

Arduino's system LED is connected to pin 13, that's why the lunars flash as they too are connected to that pin.  I specifically chose the lunars to run on pin 13 because at the time, they put out the least amount of light (and since I wanted to use ALL of the PWM pins, choosing a lower powered group of LEDs seemed to make the most sense).

I too have my arduino status lights out of sight, so yes it is nice to have some kind of indication that the upload is actually working.  Plus the fish get to enjoy some nice stobe lights for a minute or so.  I hope your fish aren't epilepitic lol.

Quote
Maybe another edition in the v3 a simple on - off for a calcium reactor or can do it day time on night time off

I must admit that I'm not familiar with how a calcium reactor works.  I've never really had the need for one, as with my weekly 10% water change, my calcium levels are always around 450-500 ppms.  I have some other supplements on hand (Reef Complete & Purple Up), but really never use them since my levels seem spot on. 

But I aim to please.  Give me some more insight as to how these devices best operate, and I'll see what I can come up with in a future realease...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on June 12, 2012, 05:37:44 PM
A calcium reactor works from co2 dissolving media to  add alk, cal and mag back in to the tank at the correct ratios, most just run this during the day as the calcium outlet has a low ph and during the day whilst the lights are on photosynthesis helps keep the ph up where as at night the ph would just get dragged down to more or less the same as the ph level that comes from the reactor, this is why most just run them during the day, they work from solenoids  shutting the gas off from entering the reactor but the flow of tank water still circulates around the reactor so the aruino would just need a 5v feed to work one of the solid state relays so folk can put mains voltage at the other side for the co2 solenoid.

I am using v2, when you go in to the general settings then press next, the tab called dim leds temp. Set the leds temp around 40 deg and then put dim the leds to 20% you will have to also press the on button under that dim leds temp, as soon as i click on the on tab the leds instantly dim to 20% or the temp i tell the arduino to dim the leds to when the temp gets to much even though the temperature is not getting no where near the 40 deg i have entered.

The fish are not dancing around yet will put a mirror ball above the tank and some tunes on for them lol


keep up the good work

kev


Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on June 12, 2012, 11:35:27 PM
A calcium reactor works from co2 dissolving media to  add alk, cal and mag back in to the tank at the correct ratios, most just run this during the day as the calcium outlet has a low ph and during the day whilst the lights are on photosynthesis helps keep the ph up where as at night the ph would just get dragged down to more or less the same as the ph level that comes from the reactor, this is why most just run them during the day, they work from solenoids  shutting the gas off from entering the reactor but the flow of tank water still circulates around the reactor so the aruino would just need a 5v feed to work one of the solid state relays so folk can put mains voltage at the other side for the co2 solenoid.

So do you think it would be better to enable the user to define the on and off times for the reactor, or would it be better to have the on/off times tied into the lighting system, so when the lights turn on so will the reactor, and when the "sun sets" the reactor will turn off?  Maybe add both options for increased user selectability?

BTW, I run my sump/refugium in opposite lighting cycles to the main tank to help keep the pH steady.  This method works very well for me.  I'm not sure if anyone using the same sort of setup as me (same opposite lighting cycles but along with the use of a calcium reactor) will see a pH decrease during reactor use and a spike when it shuts off, as the sump would then be lit up keeping the pH up.

Quote
I am using v2, when you go in to the general settings then press next, the tab called dim leds temp. Set the leds temp around 40 deg and then put dim the leds to 20% you will have to also press the on button under that dim leds temp, as soon as i click on the on tab the leds instantly dim to 20% or the temp i tell the arduino to dim the leds to when the temp gets to much even though the temperature is not getting no where near the 40 deg i have entered.

ok, so replicating that error was unfortunatley very easy to do.  I guess I didn't test the code thoroughly enough, as I hurried to release it in an effort to get it out to those who were eagerily awating some of the improvements.  Oh well, that's why it's still in BETA, and this is good because you are able to tell me if anything is wrong with it so it can get fixed.

So with that being said, I will need to re-write that particular function and test it out to make sure it works.  Hopefully I can find some time to get it done soon.  In the meatime, just leave that feature "off" and if you happen to notice your temperature running too high, set your LEDs to some lower values until I get the fix posted.  Sorry for any inconvenience :-(
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on June 13, 2012, 09:52:37 AM
Its no problem that it doesnt work and when i have time i will have a look at the code, I also reverse lite cheato for the ph and the calcium reactor in the sunrise and sunset is a better idea then a set time budd

Will be back around on the 22nd we go away on the 14th will catch up then matey

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on June 27, 2012, 09:17:02 PM
The following is primarily aimed at Kev, but anyone can feel free to chime in:

So, I finally got a little free time to work on the Jarduino (spending more time helping people troubleshoot their builds than on developing), and I'm fairly certain I've fixed the bug with the auto-dimming feature when the LEDs reach a certain user-defined temp.  But before I post it up, I've been playing around with a few changes to it.  I've made it so you can now "easily" decide how much the temperature will fall before the LEDs resume normal operation.  By default, it is 5 degrees (for both C and F).  Changing this value as of now can only be done through the sketch (line 254), and not the program itself (I may make it so it's a user-definable feature within the program if the demand is there, just let me know).  Another change that is obvious is now a notification icon will pop up in the event the LEDs were auto-dimmed, alerting you that you may have your LEDs set too bright.  Here's a quick pic of what it looks like when it happens (Notice the wrench on fire located to the left of the LED colors):
(https://graph.facebook.com/676806032333331/picture)

So currently, this icon will stay there, even after the LEDs cool down the 5 degrees.  I chose for it to stay there so you can see that there's a potential problem with either your LED brightness settings or possibly incorrect hardware choices (or maybe some other kind of issue). It will go away as soon as you touch the screen and go to the menu page (that is unless the auto-dimming feature kicks in again), or if your screensaver comes on.  When it resumes from the screensaver, the icon will (should) be gone.
 
Some possible problems I see with it in its current state is that the icon will only be displayed if you just so happen to be on the main screen.  If you happen to be on another page, or if your screensaver is currently running, you may not realize that this feature kicked in, and thus won't be alerted to a potential issue.  Do you think I should change it so that no matter what screen your controller is on, it will automatically return to the main screen and continue to display that icon (and temporarily disable the screensaver until you touch the screen)?  Or, do you think it is fine as is?  If I change it, just know that if the auto-dimming feature is called upon, you will not be able to change the screen from the main screen (and thus not be able to use the controller) until the temperature has fallen at least 5 degrees (or however many degrees you set it to fall), so you will have to wait until things cool down before using the controller again.  If you have any other suggestions, comments, or questions, please don't hesitate to throw them out there now.



Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on June 27, 2012, 11:03:46 PM
Oh nice one budd, just leave it on with the function as it is at the min, i dont think its necessary to lock the screens, Like the icon warning nice one
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on June 28, 2012, 09:49:43 AM
The fixed release has now been posted.  Enjoy!  http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/ (http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on June 28, 2012, 01:32:14 PM
Another real good idea  :You_Rock_Emoticon:

If I understand your post correctly:

I'm out working in my shed for a few hours, meanwhile the event triggers, icon appears, screen saver kicks in, sensor cools down below threshold again. I go into the room, feel inquisitive and touch the display. No warning is evident on the screen.

I would like to know that the "alarm" has been triggered, even if the situation has returned to normal, and it's important that the dimming function is still monitoring and functioning on demand.

In my simplistic understanding, could a trigger flag be set on activation, icon displayed based on the flag, and a touch event on the icon position to acknowledge, extinguishing (note the pun) the icon and resetting the trigger flag value..

Just my constructive opinion  ???.


Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on June 28, 2012, 06:13:50 PM
If I understand your post correctly:

I'm out working in my shed for a few hours, meanwhile the event triggers, icon appears, screen saver kicks in, sensor cools down below threshold again. I go into the room, feel inquisitive and touch the display. No warning is evident on the screen.

Yes, you're correct.

Quote
I would like to know that the "alarm" has been triggered, even if the situation has returned to normal, and it's important that the dimming function is still monitoring and functioning on demand.

I too was thinking that being notified of this event would be best.  It will take some work...


Quote
In my simplistic understanding, could a trigger flag be set on activation, icon displayed based on the flag, and a touch event on the icon position to acknowledge, extinguishing (note the pun) the icon and resetting the trigger flag value..

Just my constructive opinion  ???.

It will take some work...  But yes, that is a good idea (sounds like you're getting a better understanding of the way coding works).  It may be a while before I release that version however, as I like to release them after several things have been fixed/changed.  In the meantime, there currently exists a way to make sure you know that the auto-dim feature kicked in.  Simply turn off your screensaver.  If after a few days you don't see the fire icon, then most likely you won't ever see it (unless there is an actual fire).
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on June 28, 2012, 10:39:27 PM
It will take some work...  But yes, that is a good idea (sounds like you're getting a better understanding of the way coding works).  It may be a while before I release that version however, as I like to release them after several things have been fixed/changed.  In the meantime, there currently exists a way to make sure you know that the auto-dim feature kicked in.  Simply turn off your screensaver.  If after a few days you don't see the fire icon, then most likely you won't ever see it (unless there is an actual fire).
I used to do coding in basic form  too many years ago to remember, I used to work with blind people and configure scripts  so that screen readers would interface properly with databases etc. Just have no real projects to work with on a regular basis to get me started and keen again.

I've ordered the acrylic, so i'm almost ready to start the proper wiring and led fitting etc. so i'll be able to hook up the Jarduiino and see just how good it really is  :97:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on June 29, 2012, 08:15:18 AM
mine was running great but the psu went off last night god sake, the whites were on around 5-10% blues on 50% so would of thought it was pulling around 8 amp max out of the 11amp possible, trying to think how i can get something sorted asap

thinking of pc psus wires in series
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on June 29, 2012, 05:10:39 PM
mine was running great but the psu went off last night god sake, the whites were on around 5-10% blues on 50% so would of thought it was pulling around 8 amp max out of the 11amp possible, trying to think how i can get something sorted asap

thinking of pc psus wires in series

Ah that sucks!  Haven't had that happen to me knock on wood.  When something like that happens, I suppose it would be hard to troubleshoot.  What's the maximum values for everything you had hooked up to it?  I think it's a good idea to leave around 15-25% overhead.

Anyway, on to solutions.  Maybe you can temorarily connect a few LEDs, running just what you feel will be necessary off of a smaller psu until you get a new psu in.  You could always run 1 PSU per driver or if the PSU's are large enough, 1 PSU per as many drivers it can handle, again making sure to leave enough overhead (15-25%).  And I think IT IS NOT a good idea to run multiple PSU's in series UNLESS you know for certain that the particular PS's you plan on implementing are explicity designed to do so (some are designed with the capability to SAFELY be run in series, while others may only be designed with the capability to be run in parallel.  There may be a few out there that are capable of both.  Then there's that fourth category (which is probably the most common): they are not designed to be safely run in either configuration).  So that's my two cents.  Let us know what you came up with budd.   
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on June 29, 2012, 05:59:24 PM
So for the AUTO-DIM LEDs AT USER-DEFINED TEMPERATURE THRESHOLD, I was thinking maybe if/when the LEDs reach the threshold, display this icon:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676805999000001/picture)

And during the cooling off period , I was thinking maybe have that icon above flash, or rather flicker like a fire going out.  This icon will continue to flash until it has fallen below the threshold, OR if you change the settings during this cooling off period.  I'm still not sure if I should enable the user to decide within the program how many degrees it will cool before resuming normal operation.  I would now like some input as far as that goes.

And finally for when the LEDs have fallen the required amount to resume normal operation, this icon will be displayed:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676805995666668/picture)

So the worst case scenario is, you aren't around when this happens (ie - you're at work, or in the shed tinkering around), you come back to check on your tank late at night and your screensaver is on, proudly displaying the date and time.  You then tap on the screen to check the status.  This time, you happen to see the blue icon (or maybe better for a worst case scenario: you don't initially see it, even though it is there).  You then go and check out the other screens and what not because you like to play around with the controller, and when you come back to the main screen, you notice that blue fire icon (yes it will still be there).  You now realize that the auto-dim feature was used at some point.  So now all you have to do to get rid of it is simply touch the icon, and it will disappear.  You then know your LEDs are now getting to a temperature value you decided you aren't comfortable with, so now you know you need to take corrective action and change your LED values.  Questions/comments? 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on June 29, 2012, 06:12:38 PM
Cant even upload it now  :03: got another psu ordered but at £50 a go dented the old funds a little, on another note decided to add another 6 blues to my led build lol
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: compfranon on June 29, 2012, 11:36:05 PM
So for the AUTO-DIM LEDs AT USER-DEFINED TEMPERATURE THRESHOLD, I was thinking maybe if/when the LEDs reach the threshold, display this icon:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676805999000001/picture)

And during the cooling off period , I was thinking maybe have that icon above flash, or rather flicker like a fire going out.  This icon will continue to flash until it has fallen below the threshold, OR if you change the settings during this cooling off period.  I'm still not sure if I should enable the user to decide within the program how many degrees it will cool before resuming normal operation.  I would now like some input as far as that goes.

And finally for when the LEDs have fallen the required amount to resume normal operation, this icon will be displayed:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676805995666668/picture)

So the worst case scenario is, you aren't around when this happens (ie - you're at work, or in the shed tinkering around), you come back to check on your tank late at night and your screensaver is on, proudly displaying the date and time.  You then tap on the screen to check the status.  This time, you happen to see the blue icon (or maybe better for a worst case scenario: you don't initially see it).  You then go and check out the other screens and what not because you like to play around with the controller, and when you come back to the main screen, you notice that blue fire icon (yes it will still be there).  You now realize that the auto-dim feature was used at some point.  So now all you have to do to get rid of it is simply touch the icon, and it will disappear.  You then now your LEDs are now getting to a temperature value you decided you aren't comfortable with, so now you know you need to take corrective action and change your LED values.  Questions/comments?

I like the idea of the blue flame, it lets you know the system is in control and managing the situation, as long as you are aware that the event has triggered and have the option to dismiss then thats fine.

If the owner takes susbsequent action and the icon re-appears then the problem is not resolved.

This is getting into the nitty gritty of the application function, but thats what I believe seperates the best from the rest.

Great job Jamie
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on July 08, 2012, 08:58:42 PM
So a number of you have questioned whether the ITDB02 Shield v2.0 is compatible with the Jarduino.  Well, it will work out of the box with the Jarduino, the sketch should load up fine, you’ll see the stuff you need to see on the screen and what not, but you will soon discover you can’t set the clock.  This is a huge problem, as the Jarduino relies heavily on TIME.  The older version of this shield (ITDB02 Shield v1.2) has a Real Time Clock (RTC) circuit built in, and for whatever reason, the makers of the shield decided to leave the circuit out in their latest release.  I imagine they will eventually run out of the older version of the shield and most likely discontinue it, if they haven’t already.  So what can you do?  First off, don’t worry about it, as I will tell you all the parts you need to build an RTC circuit, AND how to hook it all up so it will work with the Jarduino.

Here are the PARTS YOU WILL NEED FOR THE RTC CIRCUIT:

Luckily, all of these parts are fairly cheap and easy to come by.

So now that you have all of your parts gathered up, how do you hook them up?  It’s quite simple if you can follow this diagam I threw together:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676807498999851/picture)

And there you have it, a completely compatible ITDB02 Shield.  Enjoy.


PS - Your donations allowed me to purchase everthing needed to make this circuit and test it out to ensure that it works.  That includes the Arduino, the ITDB02 Shield v2.0, the TFT LCD screen shield, and all the parts I listed above.  Thank you for helping me help you!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on July 08, 2012, 10:24:32 PM
Nice one fella, some sellers sell this already made up just have 4-5 wires to connect to save some time

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Arduino-I2C-RTC-DS1307-AT24C32-Real-Time-Clock-Module-For-AVR-ARM-PIC-/170794819927?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item27c42a2157


 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 10, 2012, 08:02:20 AM

Here are the PARTS YOU WILL NEED FOR THE RTC CIRCUIT:
  • DS1307 RTC (Real Time Clock) Chip
  • 32.768 kHz Crystal for the Real Time
  • CR2032 Battery holder
  • CR2032 Battery
  • 2x 10 kΩ Resistors

Luckily, all of these parts are fairly cheap and easy to come by.

So now that you have all of your parts gathered up, how do you hook them up?  It’s quite simple if you can follow this diagam I threw together:

And there you have it, a completely compatible ITDB02 Shield.  Enjoy.

PS - Your donations allowed me to purchase everthing needed to make this circuit and test it out to ensure that it works.  That includes the Arduino, the ITDB02 Shield v2.0, the TFT LCD screen shield, and all the parts I listed above.  Thank you for helping me help you!

Hey Jamie

Thanks again for the email. I have changed the wiring as per your guidance and I find I am having the same problem - not able to set the time. However, all checks and balances would prove it should work. I am wondering; #1 the DS1307 is extremely senstitive and it is damaged due to soldering though with a 25w iron or #2 DS1307 is faulty (possible?) as it all should work. Could the chrystal be a problem? Considering my DS1307 build is based on the Krusduino (now changed) I also have the LED in the circuit which connects to 5v and Pin 7 (GND) - based on what i am seeing it is redundant in terms of functionality and simply indicates power in this case so leaving or removing it would make no difference IMO.

Any ideas? could the DS1307 be the issue?

Thanks again :)

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on July 10, 2012, 08:14:22 AM
what does the main screen say about the time also what happens when you try to change the time and save it ?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 10, 2012, 08:50:14 AM
Hey tang

The details on the front screen are time 27:85 and date dd/mm/yy – 85/85/2165. I have tried to change it - when i do so it sayes changed! But going back it stays the same time 27:85 and 85/85/2165. I have even cleered the EEPROM and removed the battery and reconnected and then uploaded the code and still get the same date and time even after trying to change it again.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on July 10, 2012, 10:22:51 AM
Had the same issue and when clearing the EEPROM on the sketch change the "for (int i = 0; i < 512; i++)" to "for (int i = 0; i < 4096; i++)"


kev

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 10, 2012, 11:54:20 AM
Had the same issue and when clearing the EEPROM on the sketch change the "for (int i = 0; i < 512; i++)" to "for (int i = 0; i < 4096; i++)"

kev

Hey Kev

Thanks for that response - did that already :) usually if i don't i get an error during upload. So i am using 4096. I have a prebuilt RTC on its way but is taking forever from overseas so i built my own.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on July 11, 2012, 01:19:15 AM
...#1 the DS1307 is extremely senstitive and it is damaged due to soldering though with a 25w iron or #2 DS1307 is faulty (possible?) as it all should work.

A faulty DS1307 chip could definately be the problem.  When I built the test cicuit, I used an old chip that I had lying around.  It was returning similar results to the one's you are getting.  I then replaced the chip and it resolved the problem.

Quote
Could the crystal be a problem?

can't say for sure, but I doubt it.

Quote
Considering my DS1307 build is based on the Krusduino (now changed) I also have the LED in the circuit which connects to 5v and Pin 7 (GND) - based on what i am seeing it is redundant in terms of functionality and simply indicates power in this case so leaving or removing it would make no difference IMO.

unless you would like to see the seconds blink by, it is pointless.  Pin 7 is a PWM pin on the MEGA.  You need to hook that up to "GND."


Quote
Any ideas? could the DS1307 be the issue?

Again, yes the DS1307 can be the culprit.  What else could be?  Well, make sure the two pull-up resistors are the correct values - they should both be 10 kΩ (Brown, black, then Orange bands with an additional band that indicates it's tolerance.  Mine's gold which means 5%, but I'm sure a silver band (10%) would be acceptable. 

Post up a few pictures of how you have it connected - The circuit itself, and the circuit hooked up to the arduino.  I would like to see the actual circuit to verify you do indeed have it hooked up correctly, and hooked up to the correct pins.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: vahegan on July 11, 2012, 06:06:49 AM
Quote
Could the crystal be a problem?
It surely can if you overheat it.
I used  1307 on a different project once? and was getting weird results, time was way too fast (or way too slow - don't remember it exactly)/ took me quite a while to figure out that I damaged the crystal: I wound a piece of copper wire on the case and soldered it to the ground pad on the PCB to improve shielding - and the heat damaged it completely.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on July 11, 2012, 06:41:42 AM
Quote
Could the crystal be a problem?
It surely can if you overheat it.
I used  1307 on a different project once? and was getting weird results, time was way too fast (or way too slow - don't remember it exactly)/ took me quite a while to figure out that I damaged the crystal: I wound a piece of copper wire on the case and soldered it to the ground pad on the PCB to improve shielding - and the heat damaged it completely.

While vahegan is correct in stating the crystal can be a problem, in your case I can assure you that it definatley is not.  A damaged cyrstal can and will lead to some timing issues, but it certainly does not prevent you from setting the clock.  This is clearly one of three things.  1. A damaged chip, 2. Incorrect or bad resistors, 3. Incorrect/faulty wiring.  One more possiblity is a dead battery, but this one is remote, so I left it out.  Anyway, to back up my statement, I ran a quick experiment.  I just pulled the crystal from my circuit, and not surprisingly it still works (although I can guarantee the timing will be off - literally).  I then cut the power to the controller while the crystal was out, and when I reconnected the power, the date & time was still there because it was saved to the DS1307.  I then cut the power again, and this time removed the battery and the crystal, and when I powered on the controller, it displayed "Jan 1, 2000" and "12:00 AM"  (because those are the formats that I have saved in the EEPROM).  But it should be clear that the crystal is not the culprit... Get those pics posted up so I can rule out number 3.  You can test your resistors with a multimeter to make sure they fall within an acceptable range of what you expect.  I suppose while you're at it, you minus well test out the battery and make sure you're getting around 3V.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 11, 2012, 07:49:10 AM
Again, yes the DS1307 can be the culprit.  What else could be?  Well, make sure the two pull-up resistors are the correct values - they should both be 10 kΩ (Brown, black, then Orange bands with an additional band that indicates it's tolerance.  Mine's gold which means 5%, but I'm sure a silver band (10%) would be acceptable. 

Post up a few pictures of how you have it connected - The circuit itself, and the circuit hooked up to the arduino.  I would like to see the actual circuit to verify you do indeed have it hooked up correctly, and hooked up to the correct pins.

Hey Jamie, I am thinking the same. I have a head worn magnifier, a light with movable arm magnifier, multitester etc etc LOL and there is nothing wrong with the circuit build and i haven't used the DS1307 before so i can only think it is buggered. Yeah the DS1307 pin 7 is connected to ground. The resistors i used are 10ohm @ 1%.

Will see if i get a gap to take some pics tonight. I soldered some extra pins onto the v2.0 shield so that I have a place to connect the required wiring. Will be seen in the pics. This also is not the problem :)

Battery is new but I will test that also and i have a spare if necessary.

However, with all that said I may be overlooking something so a new set of eyes on it may reveal my fault :) perhaps i should get a new DS1307 or simply wait for the RTC to get here if all is, otherwise, well.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on July 11, 2012, 07:51:32 AM
Should be 10,000 ohms, not 10
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 14, 2012, 10:30:52 AM
Should be 10,000 ohms, not 10
Without testing them i think bought 10ohm! So possibly over voltage destroyed the DS1307?

I have added a small 7 pin connector. 1st pin fron right is Positive, then Negative then to pin 20 on Arduino and Pin  21
(http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/imagehosting/631850013a265780e.jpg)

Hope these make sense as i used ribbon cable which is all the same colour! I should actually change it for colour ribbon.
(http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/imagehosting/631850013a499ab71.jpg) (http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/imagehosting/631850013a6eae744.jpg)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on July 15, 2012, 04:46:41 AM
pics look good, but I won't get a chance to go over them with a fine tooth comb for a few days, got several relatives in to see the baby...  I promise I will get to them as soon as I can.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 15, 2012, 01:45:27 PM
100% Thanks Jamie. Absolutely understand!

I measured the resistors and they are 10k ohm :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on July 17, 2012, 03:00:23 PM
Without testing them i think bought 10ohm! So possibly over voltage destroyed the DS1307?

I see you got yourself some fire resistant resistors.  Those are often used in automotive circuits, but should work just fine here.  Reading the color bands, they are indeed 10kΩ.  I'm glad to hear they tested out as such.  I don't quite think you "destroyed" your DS1307, at least not yet.  Keep reading....

Quote
I have added a small 7 pin connector. 1st pin fron right is Positive, then Negative then to pin 20 on Arduino and Pin  21
(http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/imagehosting/631850013a265780e.jpg)

Hope these make sense as i used ribbon cable which is all the same colour! I should actually change it for colour ribbon.
(http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/imagehosting/631850013a499ab71.jpg) (http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/imagehosting/631850013a6eae744.jpg)


Carefully retracing your wires, I think I figured out where you've been going wrong.  I labeled my interpretation of your wires in the pic below for reference & clarity:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676812715665996/picture)

As far as I can tell, you have pins 20 & 21 mixed up.  Pin 20 of the Arduino should be on pin 5 of the DS1307, and Pin 21 of the Arduino on pin 6 of the DS1307.  Just swap those two wires around on the ITDB02 shield, that should be the easiest way to fix it.

Another problem I see is located where I have labeled in your pic "Mystery Pin."  From the looks of things, this is not hooked up to anything.  It should be hooked to the Arduino's GND.  I know we discussed it before, but for simplicity I think you should just remove the "blinking LED part of your circuit."  The black wire you have running from pin 7 of the DS1307 to the LED, remove the end that you have connected to the cathode of the LED, and hook it up to where I have it labeled "GND." 

Next, completely remove the LED and 220Ω resistor and save them for another project.  :97:

After you make those corrections, test it out, and report back.

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on July 17, 2012, 03:14:45 PM
Just a heads up i have noticed on a few of the itlead itdb02 shields that resistors have been missing or the wrong values supplied in the kit so test each one before fitting

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 19, 2012, 08:17:28 AM
Thanks guys. OK i did the necessary changes. I still get the same results. OK so on Tuesday I recieved the RTC i ordered off the web. Plugged it into the breadboard, wired it up and same problem. I did not put a battery in as that is only when it loses power i believe so with the 5v feed it should work and save the time but reset when power is removed. I get the same results. Change the time and save and it still shows the old 27 hour time etc. SO obviously something else if wrong. I am hoping it is not the Arduino itself but it appears to be working fine.

What else can i check? Perhaps the DS1307 library? etc? I am stumped.

(http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/imagehosting/63185007b42946435.jpg)

(http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/imagehosting/63185007b455998af.jpg)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on July 19, 2012, 10:06:18 AM
I think i would be inclined to just order the mega shield kit, the library is fine but one thing i cant quite work out is how its flattening the 2032 rtc battery


http://iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=236

(http://iteadstudio.com/store/images/icon/IMG_1254.JPG)

 1. ITDB02 Arduino Shield bare PCB * 1
 2. 10R resistor * 2 ; 1K resistor *3 ; 10K resistor *30
 3. 2.54mm 40Pin Male Header * 2
 4. 2X20Pin Female Header * 1
 5. DS1307 * 1
 6. CR2032 Battery Holder *1
 7. 32.768KHz Crystal Oscillator *1


(http://iteadstudio.com/store/images/produce/KIT/ITDB02MEGAKIT/ITDBMEGAKIT2.jpg)

10R : R28 R29
1K : R25 R26 R27
10K : The rest




 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on July 19, 2012, 03:27:07 PM
question for you, on the heating and chiller outputs when connected to the arduino relay shields, the relays are energised when the cooling is off  same for the chiller side

is it just a matter of changing these ones or far more

boolean tempCoolflag = 0;            //1 if cooling on
boolean tempHeatflag = 0;            //1 if heating on

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 19, 2012, 04:03:25 PM
I think i would be inclined to just order the mega shield kit, the library is fine but one thing i cant quite work out is how its flattening the 2032 rtc battery

perhaps i was talking in riddles LOL - the battery is not being flattened. What i meant was that i didn't use a battery because the new RTC uses a different battery which i don't have. BUT i used it without assuming the battery is ONLY for when there is not a 5v source connected and wouldn't affect it working with USB or a power source. So ONLY when the power source is disconnected will it affect the time etc because it then has no memory capability without the battery. OR does it need the battery regardless?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on July 19, 2012, 04:32:52 PM
I will go and try it on one of mine now budd 2 secs
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 19, 2012, 05:11:41 PM
I have removed the shield and LCD and wired the RTC direct to the arduino headers. ALSO i soldered wires from the other battery holder to the pins on the RTC battery holder. I uploaded RTC code in the examples and used the serial monitor. It "ticks" away every second BUT output is 00:00:85 and doesn't change...

is there a way to test the arduino mega i have? could it be that? I am stumped and can't afford anther almost R600 in my currency because electronics are non-refundable!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on July 19, 2012, 06:36:41 PM
can you post a link up to where you bought the rtc shield from budd
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 19, 2012, 06:51:20 PM
can you post a link up to where you bought the rtc shield from budd

I got it here http://arduino-direct.com/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=278 (http://arduino-direct.com/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=278)

Need to just thank you and Jamie for all the time and assistance!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on July 19, 2012, 06:56:43 PM
The clock will still work fine without the battery, it is just for saving your time & date settings in the event of a power disruption...  Is it just a funny angle on the picture, or is your ground pin not connected?  It looks like you have the wire one rail over to the left of where it should be:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676812668999334/picture)

I took a few pics of my DS1307 test circuit with the ITDB02 v2.0, so you can see how I have it wired up, and that indeed it does work as advertised (note that the circuit on the bottom right are just temp sensors & doesn't affect the RTC).  The Orange jumper wire is conneted to Arduino pin 20 (SDA), and the Yellow wire is connected to pin 21 (SCL).
(https://graph.facebook.com/676812602332674/picture)

(https://graph.facebook.com/676812615666006/picture)

(https://graph.facebook.com/676812625666005/picture)

So, in my previous post, what was that mystery pin?  Did you ever switch pins 20 & 21 around?  Did you remove the LED circuit & ground pin 7 of the DS1307?

If indeed you did all that, one last thing I can think of is you're not using the correct DS1307 library, so I attached a copy of the one I use.  Download & unzip it, and replace the one that you are currently using.

I suppose there could be a problem with your Arduino, but then again, there could be problems with your wiring.  You should do continuity tests on all the wires, not just from the circuit to the ITDB02 shield, but from the circuit to the Arduino itself.  You can also test your Arduino's connections.  Here's a link to the MEGA's pin mapping (http://arduino.cc/en/Hacking/PinMapping2560).  I would perform a continuity test on pins 20 & 21, VCCs & GNDs.  You should get a shrt on all the tests, if not, just resolder the connection.

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 19, 2012, 07:09:06 PM
The clock will still work fine without the battery, it is just for saving your time & date settings in the event of a power disruption...  Is it just a funny angle on the picture, or is your ground pin not connected?  It looks like you have the wire one rail over to the left of where it should be:
It's in the correct hole LOL the plastic coat is not stripped off properly and sticks out. Checked it :)

I took a few pics of my DS1307 test circuit with the ITDB02 v2.0, so you can see how I have it wired up, and that indeed it does work as advertised (note that the circuit on the bottom right are just temp sensors & doesn't affect the RTC).  The Orange jumper wire is conneted to Arduino pin 20 (SDA), and the Yellow wire is connected to pin 21 (SCL).

So, in my previous post, what was that mystery pin?  Did you ever switch pins 20 & 21 around?  Did you remove the LED circuit & ground pin 7 of the DS1307?
Yes, switched the pins and still nada. This is why I went with testing the bought RTC - same problem experienced. I am using the downloaded library from the files that are on your site - beta2 now. not using any part of another install at all.

I suppose there could be a problem with your Arduino, but then again, there could be problems with your wiring.  You should do continuity tests on all the wires, not just from the circuit to the ITDB02 shield, but from the circuit to the Arduino itself.  You can also test your Arduino's connections.  Here's a link to the MEGA's pin mapping.  I would perform a continuity test on pins 20 & 21, VCCs & GNDs.  You should get a shrt on all the tests, if not, just resolder the connection.
Did all the continuity tests. Checked output and input voltages etc and get the same result.

I think tomorrow i need to sit back and start again LOL maybe that's the answer.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on July 19, 2012, 07:13:20 PM
can you post a link up to where you bought the rtc shield from budd

I got it here http://arduino-direct.com/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=278 (http://arduino-direct.com/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=278)

Need to just thank you and Jamie for all the time and assistance!

Did you see the disclaimer on some of those RTC "bricks" that were shipped out being wired incorrectly?  Maybe you should have them send you another, as they say they will do so at no cost.

FYI - I forgot to add the link to the Arduino MEGA pin map.  I got it fixed now, so you should definately check out those pins on your Arduino...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 19, 2012, 07:37:05 PM
Hey Jamie

Yeah i saw they said there was a problem with some. It had to do with the orientation of the battery saddle/holder. The one i got the battery is orientated correctly.

I am going to triple check the wiring tomorrow night and hopefully get it going.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 19, 2012, 08:48:08 PM
OK - SO! I just couldn't leave it!! I decided to rule the bread board out and soldered the wires from the RTC direct to the pins. Now a strange thing happened. I was testing the positive and removed it frm the 5V pin. I connected the RTC positive to the Vin pin and guess what.... tghe date changed to 01/01/2000 and the time 00:01. I was able to change the time AND save it! First time EVER! BUT... it doesn't progress. It remains at the set time. ALSO the battery doesn't maintain the time if i disconnect.

I have now reconnected the positive to the 5V pin and left it like that. Still can't set time and date and save it.

VERY strange situation!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: svyaz on July 19, 2012, 11:05:54 PM
Without a battery backup power DS1307 will be working  unstable, short circuit the battery you have given understood chip that it must work from an external power supply-battery is still in the role of a reference source to define the transition from autonomous power supply to the main and back  wire the DS1307 (SDA) (SCL) should be as short, do you have the wires are long, and it may be a problem
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on July 19, 2012, 11:36:22 PM
Any idea of any arduino relay shields that are active when signals high ?

The digital inputs from Arduino are Active LOW: The relay actuates and an LED lights whe the input pin is LOW, and turns off on HIGH. See the Wiki article for how-to assure relays do not activate at power-on time

Using these ones but if the arduino fails the relay turns off then the heaters, chillers, power heads will stay on

(http://arduino-direct.com/sunshop/images/products/large_218_2-relay-isolated-1.jpg)

Opto-Isolated 2 Channel Relay Board

See more details, applications on our WIKI here:

With high-current relays, AC250V 10A ; DC30V 10A  Size: 12.3cm X5.3cm X1.8cm high  NOTE: Each relay draws about .08A (80ma) so about 4 relays are the maximum you should run from the Arduino +5V supply.  (Running from USB it may be less).  More than 2 relays: we recommend you use a separate 5V supply for the relays.

NOTES: If you want complete optical isolation, connect "Vcc" to Arduino +5 volts but do NOT connect Arduino Ground.  Remove the Vcc to JD-Vcc jumper. Connect a separate +5 supply to "JD-Vcc" and board Gnd. This will supply power to the transistor drivers and relay coils.

If relay isolation is enough for your application, connect Arduino +5 and Gnd, and leave Vcc to JD-Vcc jumper in place.

NOTE: The digital inputs from Arduino are Active LOW: The relay actuates and an LED lights whe the input pin is LOW, and turns off on HIGH. See the Wiki article for how-to assure relays do not activate at power-on time.

Schematic Diagram:

(http://yourduino.com/p/OptoRelayChannelData-575.jpg)

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on July 20, 2012, 12:15:40 AM
I assumed most of them would be on when signal is high. If you recall, I outline how to make your own using ssr's. A quick search on eBay resulted in this:  http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=250952964645&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=53309116358  (http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=250952964645&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=53309116358)

Not sure if the link will post correctly, as I'm doing this from my phone...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 20, 2012, 09:16:08 AM
Without a battery backup power DS1307 will be working  unstable, short circuit the battery you have given understood chip that it must work from an external power supply-battery is still in the role of a reference source to define the transition from autonomous power supply to the main and back  wire the DS1307 (SDA) (SCL) should be as short, do you have the wires are long, and it may be a problem
I have wired in a battery saddle with a battery so that is connected. The wires to the bard are not long but they are about 6 inches long i would estimate. Would that be a problem?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 20, 2012, 09:27:16 AM
OK this may be a daft problem IF i am missing something - I have been doing all the testing and RTC stuff only using the USB power supply. Should I rather us an external power supply? Would that be a reason?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on July 20, 2012, 10:14:22 AM
That should not matter. Neither should 6 in wires. Do you have an Arduino UNO  or deuliminove that you can test your circuit(s). Maybe borrow one?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 20, 2012, 11:00:09 AM
That should not matter. Neither should 6 in wires. Do you have an Arduino UNO  or deuliminove that you can test your circuit(s). Maybe borrow one?
No unfortunately I have no other Arduino hardware. This is my first project. The extent of my electronics experience is to the point of getting boards made and building a number of boards which are stacked for the ****pit of a 737 simulator at home which includes com board, LED 7seg displays, inputs and outputs.

So saying this because I have racked my brain and I guess I am close to having to leave this for a bit till I can get another Arduino Mega. I also do not know anyone i could approach to test this either. fact is i think the last 3 months i have pushed about R15,000 into this marine tank LOL and with a wife and kids and house that CONSTANTLY needs something fixed - today a leaking pipe IN The walls grrrrrrrr

I even resoldered all of the pins again that i added to the shield just incase.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on July 20, 2012, 01:21:23 PM
The solid state relays work fine budd but for some reason the relay shields are set up backwards, i have ord a 4 way shield with no opto couplers in and will see if they work the correct way
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on July 20, 2012, 07:09:43 PM
The solid state relays work fine budd but for some reason the relay shields are set up backwards, i have ord a 4 way shield with no opto couplers in and will see if they work the correct way

If I'm reading this right, this particular one seems to allow the user to choose how it operates (normally open or normally closed).  http://www.dfrobot.com/wiki/index.php?title=Relay_Shield_for_Arduino_(SKU:DFR0144) (http://www.dfrobot.com/wiki/index.php?title=Relay_Shield_for_Arduino_(SKU:DFR0144)).  Plus it has xbee capabilities, so you can make it wireless. I've purchased a few items from df and have never been disappointed...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on July 20, 2012, 08:55:23 PM
Nice one cheers budd
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 30, 2012, 01:01:19 PM
Hey Guys

OK I am thinking of going to buy another Arduino mega 2560 this afternoon if i get away from the office in time. Also i am trying to source some PWM drivers for the LEDs locally and something that can fit into a nice enclosure that isn't too bulk or an eye sore.

Just some advice - if possible - i can get these locally http://za.rs-online.com/web/p/external-power-supplies/6689870/ (http://za.rs-online.com/web/p/external-power-supplies/6689870/) which would fil on a circuit board. I am bnot sure of the wattage BUT I would assume that if i give it a 36V input i, theoretically, should get 36watts? and if i take the 1.2 mA version i should get +- 43watts? Would i be correct?

MANY thanks in advance.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on July 30, 2012, 05:42:48 PM
Those are the same drivers I use. The link you provided has a link to the datasheet, which will have all the info you need. It says it outputs 35v max, so for example, I would run no more than 9 cree xp-g's in series per RCD-24-1.20 driver.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 30, 2012, 07:55:15 PM
Awesome many thanks again Jamie. Hope baby's doing great??
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on July 30, 2012, 09:35:47 PM
Baby Alexandra - my little Reef Angel:

(https://graph.facebook.com/676814205665847/picture) :'(
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on July 30, 2012, 09:39:50 PM
what a beauty well done to you and your Wife Dude Wait till she gets older lol i have 3 girls aghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh   
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: cmantis on July 30, 2012, 10:13:22 PM
I still have to finish reading through all these pages but I have a parts list and sketch for a water level monitor if interested.  Also is there a complete parts list available?  I have my mega on order and have the fish feeder but need the rest.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: cmantis on July 30, 2012, 10:54:59 PM
Ok I came up with a parts list from this thread.  Hopefully one of the experts can review it and make any changes or edits:


Arduino Parts
   Arduino MEGA 2560
   two Arduino MEGA Prototyping Shields from DF Robot (DFR0016)
   two Power LED Shields
   standard eithernet sheild

Tools & Materials Utilized in Wave Maker Construction:
     Wire Cutters and strippers
     Screw driver
     Soldering Iron
     Multimeter
     Metal Single Gang Output Box
     3/8” Clamp Combination Connector (Wire Nut)
     15 Amp Outlet
     High-Voltage, High-Current Darlington Transistor Array, i.e. ULN2803A
     18-Pin DIP IC Socket (optional)
     Acrylic
     Solid State Relays (KYOTTO AC KB20C06A 280VAC 6A)
     Male 3 Prong Connector
     X2 Capacitors (0.22μF / 270VAC)
     RCA Cables (with Female Connectors)
     Heatshrink Tubing
     Heat Gun
     Zip Tie(s)
     Miscellaneous wire and solder
     5 minute epoxy
     Wire Spade Terminals
     Liquid Electrical Tape
     HYDOR Korialia Evolution Powerheads

General Tools & Materials Utilized in Electronics:
     Wire Cutters and wire strippers
     Wires of various gauges and colors (Both Solid and Stranded core)
     Screw driver(s)
     Cordless Drill (primarily used to twist wires together)
     Drill Bits and Counter Sinks
     Wood Screws (Stainless Steel)
     Nylon Stand-offs (w/ nylon screws and nuts)
     Soldering Iron
     De-SolderingTool (aka Solder Sucker) – This is for the inevitable mistakes
     Flux
     60/40 Light Duty Rosin Core Solder
     Multimeter
     Breadboard (For Testing)
     Jumper Wires (For Testing)
     AA Battery LED Tester (Two AA Batteries in Series)
     Antistatic Wrist Strap
     The Various Electronic Components I will list as I cover each section
     Whatever Else I forgot

Temperature Sensor Components:
     DS18B20 Digital Temperature Sensor
     4.7 kΩ resistor
   tiny light bulb

PWM Fan Controlling Components:
     BC549CNPN Transistor (I also tested a BD137 NPN Transistor which also worked fine)
     1 kΩ resistor
     IN4001 Diode (for protection)
     60 mm PWM fan

Lights
   RECOM Constant Current LED drivers
   Or
   Drivers mean well 60-48P (NPN Transistor - BC549CNPN Transitors): connect drivers Eln 60-48p through Dual Power MOSFET Driver ICL7667
   Or
   MeanWell LDD-1000H
   Mean Well AC/DC Power Supply Single Output 36 Volt, 8.8A (316.8 W), model number SP-36-320
   For the Hood two fans ( Arctic Cooling F12 PWM Fans 120mm)
   Heatsinks:
Tools & Materials Utilized in Cutting Heatsink:
     Table Saw with Carbide Tipped Blade
     Saber Saw with Carbide Blade
     Hacksaw
     Metal Files
     Square (and a pencil works great for writing on the Heatsink)

Tools & Materials Utilized in Preparing Heatsink for LEDs:
     Drill Press
     Cutting Oil
     4-40 Tap & Drill Set
     Computer Generated Template
     Hand Held Orbital Sander
     Sandpaper for the Orbital Sander (I used various grits from 100 to 1000)
     Dish Soap
     Acetone

Tools & Materials Utilized in Joining Heatsink Together:
     Drill Press with extra-long HSS drill bits
     Metal Files
     Thermal Compound
     Various Washers, Nuts & Bolts
     Various wrenches
     Vice
     Hacksaw
LEDS
Power LED Shield
Tools & Materials Utilized in LED Installation:
     LEDs mounted on Stars from STEP 2
     4-40 x 3/8 Nylon Round Head Screws
     4-40 x 3/8 Stainless Steel Round Head Screw
     Insulating Fiber Washers (4mm x 8mm x 0.8mm)
     Thermal Compound & Compound Spreader
     Flat Head & Phillips Head Screwdrivers
     22 AWG Wire (Various Colors)
     Wire Stripper
     Wire Cutter
     Variable Temperature Soldering Iron
     Rosin-Core Solder
     Flux
     Needle Nose Pliers
     Tweezers
     Soldering Assist Tool
     Cordless Hand Held Drill

Hood
Tools & Materials Utilized in Hood Construction:
     Pine Wood
     Table Saw
     Double Bevel Compound Miter Saw
     Saber Saw
     Hole Saws
     Table Belt Sander (Oscillating)
     Drill Press
     Hand Held Cordless Drill
     Various Drill Bits
     Counter Sink Drill Bit
     Wood Glue
     Wood Screws
     Screwdrivers
     Vice Grips
     Hammer
     Router
     Orbital Sander with Various Grits of Sandpaper (60 – 320)
     Wood Stain (Various Colors)
     Polyurethane
     Paint Brush
     Stainless Steel Screws
     Squares
     Tape Measure
     Quick-Grip Clamps
     Cardboard for template
     Protractor
   120mm 12cm Computer Case Fan Dust Guard Grill Protector Cover


Screen
   LCD Touch Screen is a 3.2 inch TFT LCD module with touch panel & SD card cage.
   2.4" LCD's that will work with the Jarduino are the ILI9325C & ILI9325D
   LCD Controller Shield: Here is a list of the only LCD controllers it woud be compatible with:
HX8342-A (3.2")
ILI9327 (3.2")
SSD1289 (3.2")
ILI9325D (2.4")

   ITDB02 Arduino MEGA Shield v1.1
   Housing - 1/16" of plexi material
   RTC:
      PARTS YOU WILL NEED FOR THE RTC CIRCUIT:
DS1307 RTC (Real Time Clock) Chip
32.768 kHz Crystal for the Real Time
CR2032 Battery holder
CR2032 Battery
2x 10 kΩ Resistors

   CR2032 battery
   40-Pin HDD IDE cable

Feeder
   EHEIM 3581 Digital Feeder
   5 V DC Step Down Converter
   lower it to 3V using some diodes

Fan for sump
   fan for the Sump LED box is made by Dynaeon (TOP MOTOR). It is a 60mm PWM fan, model number DF126025BM.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on July 30, 2012, 11:33:02 PM
just a small list then lol
I have not dared to list every thing i have bought x 2 lol
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on July 30, 2012, 11:52:40 PM
How many LEDs are you planning and what peripherals do you want, as these can either decrease or increase the size of your list?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on July 31, 2012, 12:16:21 AM
you forgot two things, a trolly as well and a half filled wallet, oh forgot the most important obstacle of all ! the women ! add a bottle of wine to that for the women keeps them sweet lol
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: cmantis on July 31, 2012, 12:18:46 AM
I already have LEDs.  Also plan to integrate PH/ORP/EC/DO Probes and Circuits.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on July 31, 2012, 12:31:04 AM
How many LEDs? What are the specs? Knowing this will allow you to determine how many drivers and how large of a psu you need.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on July 31, 2012, 05:27:29 AM
AH man Jamie - absolutely gorgeous bud!! My youngest is 16 months and oldest 5yo. Both gorgeous girls. When people they have my wifes looks i say ABSOLUTEKY right - cos i still have mine!! hahaha wish you MANY years of happy fathering!

Congrats again.

Baby Alexandra - my little Reef Angel:

(https://graph.facebook.com/676814205665847/picture) :'(
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on July 31, 2012, 08:35:41 AM
Hell budd sorry missed that post, a huge congrats there so cute when there like that then they grow up arrgghhh lol

Baby Alexandra - my little Reef Angel:

(https://graph.facebook.com/676814205665847/picture) :'(
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: cmantis on July 31, 2012, 09:29:50 AM
How many LEDs? What are the specs? Knowing this will allow you to determine how many drivers and how large of a psu you need.

These are already in the housing I had them custom made for me.  The have 55x3w bridgelux led's

(http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/3271/ledarrangementfinalchan.png)

The drivers right now are not dimmable but I will be replacing them with ones that do both 0-10v and pwm.  I know this only uses pwm figure why not.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on July 31, 2012, 08:34:15 PM
Is there any reason why the arduino 2560 cant do the same things as the ghl profilux can ?

For £1000 you get

This set makes the entry into the world of the ProfiLux controllers quite easy, furthermore it offers a significant price advantage.

Includes:

ProfiLux 3 eX incl. temperature sensor

+ pH-Sensor

+ Platinum conductivity sensor

+ Powerbar6D-PAB

+ PAB-cable 2m

+ calibration fluids

This system is capable of the following functions (with the necessary hardware fitted)
Measurement & control of pH-value, temperature, Redox, conductivity (salt or fresh water), oxygen, humidity, air temperature, all sensors are galvanically isolated.
Seasonal temperature courses.
Automatic calibration of all sensors.
Auto top off, automatic water change, leakage detection.
Illumination control for dimmable (1-10V-interfaces or DALI) and non-dimmable lamps, calendar-based moon phases, storms, also seasonally variable illumination possible including thunderstorm simulations using the GHL LED sticks and spots.
AC dimmable ballast controllable
Aqua Illumination compatible unlocking the true capabilities of the aqua illumination system.
TMC Aqua Ray controllable.
8 x Tunze stream controllable with the addition of simple cable kit, no Tunze controller required. FURTHER STREAMS ARE CONTROLLABLE WITH EXPANSION. Tunze wave box controllable.
Hydor Koralia 12v controllable using pump control-1 expansion box.
Pump control for controllable and non-controllable pumps (see above), different pump groups with different settings, waves, ebb-flow, surge, random, sequences, shortest wave duration 0,4 s, therefore also suited for wave boxes .
Dosing pump control, GHL dosing pump systems.
Universal timers, shortest switching time 1s.
Integrated web-server (display of values and configuration, remote programming), own website can be loaded, compatible with all current browsers.
Integrated e-mail-client (sending of e-mails in case of an alarm).
PIN-protection.
Reminder functions.
Optical and acoustic alarm.
Feeding pause and maintenance function.
Safety functions, e.g. redundant sensors, monitoring of the sensor function, value check.
Due to simple software updates (device doesn’t need to be opened for this), always the newest functions are available.
Large internal storage for measured values for all sensors, according to the setting, you can store measured values up to several years.
Switch-on delay of sockets after blackout.
Programmable logic.
PC-software available for FREE.
100%-downwardly compatible: hardware of ProfiLux Plus II can be used further on (e.g. expansion cards, powerbars, ProfiLux View II).
ProfiLux Plus II can be upgraded to ProfiLux 3, ProfiLux Plus II (eX) can be upgraded to ProfiLux 3 (eX) with an Upgrade-Kit.
Connection of external display and operating units (ProfiLux View-PAB) possible, also several to one system.
Internal clock keeps on running also during a blackout (Goldcap instead of battery, therefore no battery change necessary).
All settings remain also during blackout.
Universal analog (0 – 10 V) and digital inputs.
Hardware ProfiLux 3 (eX)
32Bit-controller – enough reserve of processing power and storage for future extensions
Inputs for pH-value, temperature, 2 x level
(ProfiLux 3 eX has additional inputs for redox, conductivity and one more level sensor).
2x expansion slots. Infinite further expansion with the PAB expansion box
4x 1-10V-interfaces with additional shut-off signals, dimmable electronic ballasts can be turned completely powerless at 0%
(6x for ProfiLux 3 eX ).
2x connections for ProfiLux II-powerbars.
LAN (WLAN compatible: if a wireless bridge is used, a wireless connection is possible).
USB.
2x ProfiLux Aquatic Bus (PAB)-Interface.
RS232-port, to connect a SMS-Module or a ProfiLux View, also suited for the connection to PCs, multimedia controller or house automation systems with RS232.
Graphical blue/white display.
Robust key pad.
Hardware Powerbar-PAB
6x separately switchable sockets each can be loaded with 15 AMP with infinate expandability of socket numbers.
Current measurement for all sockets.
Safety switches in case of a failure of ProfiLux or PAB ? sockets then overtake a preprogrammed state (on or off).
Hardware Expansion Box-PAB
Inputs for pH-value, temperature, conductivity, Redox, 2 x level.
5x expansion slots.
4x 1-10V-interfaces (6x for ProfiLux 3 eX ).


TBH i think its way way overpriced ! just seen someone get the unit with triple dosing unit touch screen not to sure what else but ow much ! lol
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on July 31, 2012, 09:17:30 PM
So, on a number of occasions I've been asked the question: How much did that cost you?  Whether or not people realize it, that is a very loaded question.  So in response, here's my over-loaded answer.  Now, I'm not going to include the cost of my time to come up with all this stuff: circuit designs, testing, building, coding, arguments with the wife, etc., etc. (which all of the above btw runs into way more hours than I'm willing to admit).  But I will share with all of you the material costs of my build...

I just hastily threw together an itemized “invoice” so to speak.  This list includes not just the price of the “Hood,” but everything from the touchscreen controller, the LEDs for the main tank, the LED box in the Sump, fans, PSU, wave maker circuit...EVERYTHING for the most part will be disclosed.  Try to keep that information in mind when you look at the total because if you were to build your own setup, you most likely won’t be building everything I did, so your costs will be different.  Also, I know some of the costs have since come down...

I'm sure I'm missing some stuff here and there, but for all intents and purposes it's complete.  If you have read my thread up to this point thoroughly, then you should know that some of the materials I had on hand, and also you will realize that I salvaged a lot of other parts out of some old electronics - VCR's, Satellite Receivers, etc.  Generally speaking, the stuff I salvaged isn't all that much to purchase new if you know where to buy, but know that the prices for the items I had on hand/salvaged is NOT reflected in the list.

And one last thing. Disclosure: On this list I have several websites listed.  Please know that I don't endorse, work for, recommend, and I am not affiliated with any of those places. I just simply purchased my items from them because they were the best prices I could find at the time.
(https://graph.facebook.com/676815638999037/picture)
NOTE: The prices you see in the list are in US Dollars. 
The total equivalent in British Pounds as of 31/7/2012 is: £ 453.22


Now there's a lot of areas where I could have saved a bunch of cash (at least a few hundred US dollars), but I have my reasons for choosing the items I did (as I detailed throughout this thread).  At any rate, I think this hood/sump light/WaveMaker/touch screen controller/etc still ended up being quite the bargain.  When you compare the prices of Metal Halides for instance (that you have to replace them a few times a year, plus the price to run them), my LEDs will last 10 years or more before needing replacing, and the energy savings alone are worth it.  Plus, they don't add heat to my tank like Halides thus requiring a chiller.  And what you can do with LEDs (as I think I've displayed).  Even when you compare my build to most of the outrageously priced commercially available units, the equivalent units can run many several hundred dollars more than it cost me to build just part of this.  I'm of course throwing the word "equivalent" around rather loosely.  What I'm comparing is just the cost for the same number of LEDs (and the cost of the other things you would expect to be included in them).  What I'm not comparing is all the other stuff I included in mine (Touch Screen Controller, Wavemaker, Sump Light, and so on, and let's not forget all the time this automation saves me now and in the years to come, especially once I get my automatic water changer & dosing included).  When you consider those factors, then in my mind there's really no comparison at all... This of course is just my very subjective opinion.  Feel free to share yours!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on July 31, 2012, 09:19:56 PM

These are already in the housing I had them custom made for me.  The have 55x3w bridgelux led's

(http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/3271/ledarrangementfinalchan.png)

The drivers right now are not dimmable but I will be replacing them with ones that do both 0-10v and pwm.  I know this only uses pwm figure why not.

Wow, I haven't seen someone use so many different colors in their setup.  This build should prove very interesting.  Have you decided what you are going to use to drive your LEDs?  Meanwell makes an all in one LED driver, so that makes them a popular choice amoungst many.  Also, you can go the same route as me and use seperate LED drivers and a large PSU that powers everything.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on July 31, 2012, 10:48:01 PM
thats not bad at all jamie, just think no more bulbs 10 years + budd
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on July 31, 2012, 11:09:40 PM
thats not bad at all jamie, just think no more bulbs 10 years + budd

Yeah, with the effectiveness of LEDs these days (PAR output, energy savings, low heat output, so on and so forth), I can't think of any reason why someone would continue to run MH's, unless they recently purchased a really expensive MH setup or have a warehouse full of the bulbs and they want to use them all up before switching over.  Maybe some people can sell their surplus MH bulbs to McDonald's so they can keep their Big Macs & French Fries warm!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: cmantis on July 31, 2012, 11:32:26 PM
Wow, I haven't seen someone use so many different colors in their setup.  This build should prove very interesting.  Have you decided what you are going to use to drive your LEDs?  Meanwell makes an all in one LED driver, so that makes them a popular choice amoungst many.  Also, you can go the same route as me and use seperate LED drivers and a large PSU that powers everything.

Here is another picture:
(http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/4970/imag0090qt.jpg)

I am going to order drivers that are both 0-10v and PWM from a place in China.  They also make the same drivers as meanwell if I want.

So what exactly do I need for the Arduino Mega:

ITDB02 Arduino MEGA Shield v1.1 kit or v1.2 with rtc module
Shield - (would this work: http://www.elecfreaks.com/store/lcd-tft01-mega-shield-v10-p-214.html)
rtc - (would this work: http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=ds%201307&product_id=511#.UBhat6CjWW8)

2x Proto Shield (I see 3 in the diagram of everything hooked up)
I know you linked to the dfrobot one but would this work: http://www.bizoner.com/prototype-shield-protoshield-with-bread-board-for-arduino-mega-p-183.html

Also I can't find the power led shield without the drivers?

How about the ethernet shield is wifi working yet?

I am trying to get my order together for the arduino stuff and then will start ordering the rest.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on August 01, 2012, 12:11:19 AM
Here is another picture:
(http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/4970/imag0090qt.jpg)

Damn son, that thing is sweet!  I imagine you'll be able to come up with some pretty neat color combinations... Maybe any color under the rainbow?  Really, though, in order to do that all you need is Red, Green, and Blue.  I guess the yellows will allow you to get some more "warmth" in your colors..

Changing the code will be fairly easy to accomodate your color choices... Let me know if you need any assistance with that.

Quote from: cmantis
I am going to order drivers that are both 0-10v and PWM from a place in China.  They also make the same drivers as meanwell if I want.

...Also I can't find the power led shield without the drivers?...

The PowerLED shields will only work with RECOM RCD-24-xxx drivers.  The price you see is the Shield with the most expensive configuration (4 RCD-24-1.20 LED drivers INSTALLED), but if you scroll further down, you can choose what drivers you want (or don't want).  I think he's out of stock on the PowerLED shields at the moment anyway... I just sent him an email, and hopefully he'll clue me in on when he expects to get more made...

Anyway, If you are getting different drivers, then the powerLED shield will be of little or no benefit to you. Again, I just included it in my writeup of my build because it is what I used.  I do recommend them if you are trying to follow in my footsteps, but you obviously are going down a slightly different path (which is perfectly fine).  I'll do what I can (as I'm sure others will to here on UKreefs) to help you properly connect whatever drivers you decide to get to your LEDs.  Just make sure you get one's with the right specs!

Quote from: cmantis
So what exactly do I need for the Arduino Mega:

ITDB02 Arduino MEGA Shield v1.1 kit or v1.2 with rtc module
Shield - (would this work: http://www.elecfreaks.com/store/lcd-tft01-mega-shield-v10-p-214.html)
rtc - (would this work: http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=ds%201307&product_id=511#.UBhat6CjWW8)

Theoretically, those paired together should work just fine.  But at less than 1/3 of the cost of those two things combined, you can just get this kit, which many use (including myself): http://imall.iteadstudio.com/prototyping/kits/im120717001.html (http://imall.iteadstudio.com/prototyping/kits/im120717001.html)

Quote from: cmantis
2x Proto Shield (I see 3 in the diagram of everything hooked up)
I know you linked to the dfrobot one but would this work: http://www.bizoner.com/prototype-shield-protoshield-with-bread-board-for-arduino-mega-p-183.html

Those may work, but I can't say for sure.  You see, that particular shield is a breadboard proto shield, so it may limit what particular pins are available.  Also, a breadbaord isn't considered "permanent."  I would go with something that gives you a lot of real estate to work with, and something that will allow you to solder the components to.  Like I said in my thread, it's just what I used.  You can use whatever you like that you think will work.  You could even solder the circuits right to the pins of the Arduino and go with no ProtoShields if you so desire.  At any rate, my recommendation is to not use the ones you provided a link for...

Quote from: cmantis
How about the ethernet shield is wifi working yet?

Apparently the WiFi shield that I ordered isn't compatible with my particular router.  So, I just ordered an ethernet shield and will try to get that up and going.  I'll work on the WiFi once I get the ethernet up and going.  Maybe include both ethernet and WiFi as many home electronics do...

Also, once I get some more funding, I'll start ordering some probes (pH, conductivity, etc.).  Those things are fairly expensive, but I don't want to get ones that are too cheap (unless they are made well).  Anyway, once I get them, I can begin working on hardware hookup and the code to run them...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on August 01, 2012, 06:32:56 AM
OK i went and bought another MEGA 2560 yesterday - i get the same issue - clock isn't working. So i have ordered the previous version of the shield which included the RTC. Hopefully that will work. So another 3+ weeks wait for postage LOL - oh well. Give me time to save LOL

Hey Jamie - do you know if there are eagle files or diagrams for the LED power shields as i will be getting 7 of the RECOM RCD-24-1.20 drivers. Can i JUST use the shields on a proto board?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: cmantis on August 01, 2012, 08:14:50 AM
Is there any advantage to getting the protoshield assembled?  It is only $0.40 more but doesn't look quiet the same as how you have yours laid out.
http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=123_125&product_id=338#.UBjUkaMlfKI

Also if I am placing an order at iteadstudio and dfrobot besides the shields are there any other parts so I can save on shipping and not have to wait ordering anything else?

Also looking at your list and prices (which is very helpful by the way, TY!) how did you get your mega so cheap?  What do you think about the clones?  Are there any good ones?  I have a real mega on they way but it cost me $38 and now the price has gone up to like $52.

I want to build two of these as I have two tanks I want to control (different locations).

I am trying to get all my parts from China so I only have to wait on one slow boat.  Here is what I have so far (per jarduino).

- Maybe another mega
- 2x proto shield
- waterproof DS18B20 (only need water temp)
- ITDB02 Arduino MEGA Shield v1.1 KIT
- 3.2" TFT LCD Module + Touch Panel Screen + PCB Adapter (SSD1289)

Am I missing anything (can everything else be purchased locally)?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on August 01, 2012, 08:25:54 PM
OK i went and bought another MEGA 2560 yesterday - i get the same issue - clock isn't working. So i have ordered the previous version of the shield which included the RTC. Hopefully that will work. So another 3+ weeks wait for postage LOL - oh well. Give me time to save LOL

Hey Jamie - do you know if there are eagle files or diagrams for the LED power shields as i will be getting 7 of the RECOM RCD-24-1.20 drivers. Can i JUST use the shields on a proto board?

I do recall seeing some of Mark's PCB layouts on some Arduino site a year or so ago, but can't seem to locate them anywhere.  It was for a previous version of his shield, before he starting using the RECOM drivers.  I don't think it would be of much use to you anyway since you are going with the RECOMs....

As for the LED Drivers, on the RCD-24-x.xx datasheet, RECOM suggests a few different ways you can hook these up to a proto board or otherwise on pages 3&4.  Here's a link to the RECOM RCD-24-x.xx datasheet (http://www.recom-international.com/pdf/Innoline/RCD-24.pdf).
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on August 01, 2012, 09:35:40 PM
Is there any advantage to getting the protoshield assembled?  It is only $0.40 more but doesn't look quiet the same as how you have yours laid out.
http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=123_125&product_id=338#.UBjUkaMlfKI

Your right, the assembled proto shield does look a bit different from the kit.  I did purchase the unassembled version, so I can't say for sure if they are the same or not.  They are however a breeze to solder together, so I would recommend you buy this one: http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=123_125&product_id=60 (http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=123_125&product_id=60).  Just one caveat: when you assemble them, make sure one board has slightly different header pin positions from the other (if you're going with two protoshields like me):
PROTO1 (Top View):
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170589063542/picture)

PROTO2 (Top View):
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170735730194/picture)
Where you able to see the difference in the position of the header pins?


Quote from: cmantis
Also if I am placing an order at iteadstudio and dfrobot besides the shields are there any other parts so I can save on shipping and not have to wait ordering anything else?

The last time I placed an order at iTead, I purchased a 3.2" LCD TFT Screen, the ITDB02 MEGA Shield v1.1 kit, and the ITDB02 MEGA Shield v2.0 kit to save on shipping.  I purchased these (and several other items) for various test circuits for future Jarduino development using contributions.

DFrobot sells a "waterproof" DS18B20 temp sensor (http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36_64&product_id=689), but you may be able to get them cheaper elsewhere.  They also sell various connectors, jumpers, and other components (caps, resistors, etc.), but I don't know if their prices are any good on them.  But if you're looking to save on shipping, I'm sure it's worth a comparision.


Quote from: cmantis
Also looking at your list and prices (which is very helpful by the way, TY!) how did you get your mega so cheap?  What do you think about the clones?  Are there any good ones?  I have a real mega on they way but it cost me $38 and now the price has gone up to like $52.

Sometimes you can get some really great deals on eBay.  Two of my MEGAs sure do look authentic, but coming from China I'm sure they are counterfit/clones.  Anyway, they haven't failed me yet!  And why would they considering everything's basically the same except who assembled them?

Quote from: cmantis
I want to build two of these as I have two tanks I want to control (different locations).

I am trying to get all my parts from China so I only have to wait on one slow boat.  Here is what I have so far (per jarduino).

- Maybe another mega
- 2x proto shield
- waterproof DS18B20 (only need water temp)
- ITDB02 Arduino MEGA Shield v1.1 KIT
- 3.2" TFT LCD Module + Touch Panel Screen + PCB Adapter (SSD1289)

Am I missing anything (can everything else be purchased locally)?

If you're building two, then you will need to double your order from above.  I would definatley recommend some kind of connectors.  I got all of mine from old/dead electronics (If you have any on hand, just one old/broken VCR or Sat. reciever may have enough to fill your needs for this project).  Or you can bundle them together with your orders from Df or iTead, or you can get them locally - the choice is yours!  I try to support my local economy when I can, but if they don't carry/make the stuff I need around here, how can I?  And I don't consider it supporting the local economy when I go into a local store and pay someone local for products they simply "imported" from China.  I can do that myself (and not charge myself a 100% markup) thank you.  You can definately get some wires, connectors, and components "locally."  I purchase a lot from digi-key, jameco, and arrow when I don't have what I need on hand...  Maxim is also another option, and a lot of times you can get several components for FREE from them, as they give out samples.  Come to think of it, I recieved 4 FREE RECOM RCD-24-0.70 drivers from Arrow (3 of which I utilized in my build).
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: cmantis on August 01, 2012, 11:29:03 PM
Just wondering why you purchased both the ITDB02 MEGA Shield v1.1 kit and the ITDB02 MEGA Shield v2.0 kit?  Will these will work with any 3.2 lcd with touch and pcb designed for the arduino?  Such as this: http://www.sainsmart.com/module/lcd-module/sainsmart-3-2-tft-lcd-display-touch-panel-pcb-adapter-sd-slot-for-arduino-2560.html/

Or do they need to have the following specs (which seem to be about twice as expensive):
- Display Library: ITDB02_Graph16
- Touch Library:ITDB02_Touch
- SD Library: ITDB02_tinyFAT16

I was thinking of getting a temp sensor like this: http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=689#.UBmrZ6CjWW8

My mega just arrived today but I will probably be ordering another 'chinese' one.  I saw one on ebay that had all the arduino logo's but clearly wasn't authentic.  The rest that don't claim to be look exactly the same but I imagine perform just as well so will give that a try and compare to my real one.

I also have a parts list and schematic for making the PH/ORP/EC/DO so will be ordering those parts as well.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on August 02, 2012, 12:21:40 AM
Like I said, I purchased both for testing and development. I want to verify circuits I design and post work as expected, and give people who want to build something similar some options. It's for my contributors, not for me bud. Obviously not for me, as my build had been finished for quite some time.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on August 02, 2012, 07:24:44 AM
Like I said, I purchased both for testing and development. I want to verify circuits I design and post work as expected, and give people who want to build something similar some options. It's for my contributors, not for me bud. Obviously not for me, as my build had been finished for quite some time.

Thanks mil again for ALL the assistance Jamie.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on August 02, 2012, 07:52:00 AM

I also have a parts list and schematic for making the PH/ORP/EC/DO so will be ordering those parts as well.
Hey Bud - could you share the info i.e. where you got the schematics etc. Thanks a mil!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: cmantis on August 02, 2012, 07:54:52 AM
I am still a little confused about the screens that will work with the ITDB02 shield.  Does it have to be a ITDB02 screen? I know they have a library specific for this.  However you also mentioned that other screens such as the SSD1289 would work.  I see that they have shields for these lcd screens, would they work on the ITDB02 shield or do I need the shield made for the SSD1289? Also will it work with your sketch or would it need some modification?  The SSD1289 screens are about half the price of the ITDB02 screens.  Obviously I would like to save some money but I want to get the easiest one to start with.  As you can tell I am new to all this and your advice and feedback is greatly appreciated.

(Like they say measure twice and cut once.  Just want to make sure I get the right stuff.  So figure I better ask the experts.)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on August 02, 2012, 08:26:12 AM
As for the LED Drivers, on the RCD-24-x.xx datasheet, RECOM suggests a few different ways you can hook these up to a proto board or otherwise on pages 3&4.  Here's a link to the RECOM RCD-24-x.xx datasheet (http://www.recom-international.com/pdf/Innoline/RCD-24.pdf).

I would assume the diagram i should look at would be LED DIMMER with High frequency control?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: cmantis on August 02, 2012, 12:56:12 PM
I think I just answered my own question: http://iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=54

The LCD in the ITDB02 is 240374PQ . It’s a 65K color , 320*240 (resolution), 3.2 inch TFT LCD screen.The LCD has a wide viewing angle , the contrast is also very suitable.

The Screen include a controller SSD1289, it’s 16bit data interface , easy to drive by many MCU like STM32 ,AVR and 8051.

ITDB02 is designed with a touch controller in it . The touch IC is ADS7843 , and touch interface is included in the 40 pins breakout.

--> So I should be safe getting the SSD1289 screen from somewhere other than iteadstudio for cheaper and just getting the ITDB02 shield to hook it up.  Correct me if I am wrong.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: cmantis on August 02, 2012, 09:39:24 PM
I just found this new version of the wifi shield which seems to be faster by using serial rather than uart (can stream video).  Does AES encryption and can do ad-hoc: http://www.elechouse.com/elechouse/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=90_186&products_id=2165

Also I found the garage door open project that works with this shield and an iphone.  You can create the code here (maybe it can be tweaked for our purposes even though I have android) - http://wifigarage.com/index.php?id=code


I see now you already tried to get v2.0 to work and it didn't.  Guess I will keep looking.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on August 02, 2012, 10:46:22 PM
The v2 i have been running for 2 months now so what in your opinion is the problem ?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on August 02, 2012, 10:49:30 PM
Some one must have a screw loose to gove all of them details out come on i mean wireless network key, ip address, gateway. will just leave the house keys outside as well to make it easier !

lol
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: cmantis on August 02, 2012, 10:53:00 PM
The v2 i have been running for 2 months now so what in your opinion is the problem ?

I was just reading earlier in this thread where TheDOdblG said he couldn't get it working.  So you think I am good to go with v2?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on August 03, 2012, 11:51:06 AM
ah that i think will be the third version, the v1 and v2 seem to be just fine, the v3 may have orp, ph, salinity, wireless and a few other bugs ironed out in the v2

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on August 03, 2012, 02:44:02 PM
Sounds Good :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: cmantis on August 03, 2012, 10:59:00 PM
Just picked up a Hakko fx-888-23by soldering station to get going on this project for $71.20 new with full warranty and free shipping!  Now I just need to wait for everything else to arrive.  Hope to be a Jarduino Jedi soon.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on August 04, 2012, 12:00:07 AM
Just picked up a Hakko fx-888-23by soldering station to get going on this project for $71.20 new with full warranty and free shipping!  Now I just need to wait for everything else to arrive.  Hope to be a Jarduino Jedi soon.

That's a great price, and imo the absolute best soldering station for your money. Should last you a decade or more, probably as long as you LEDs :-)

And may the force be with you (my young padawan)!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on August 04, 2012, 03:58:41 AM
As for the LED Drivers, on the RCD-24-x.xx datasheet, RECOM suggests a few different ways you can hook these up to a proto board or otherwise on pages 3&4.  Here's a link to the RECOM RCD-24-x.xx datasheet (http://www.recom-international.com/pdf/Innoline/RCD-24.pdf).

I would assume the diagram i should look at would be LED DIMMER with High frequency control?

Yes, that one should be fine.  I think with that particular setup you may improve the circuits performance by adding an ICL7667 Dual Power MOSFET Driver (1 per every 2 channels), or maybe better just 1 equivalent PMIC - MOSFET, Bridge Driver - External Switch with 6 outputs (since the ICL7667 only has 2 outputs).  You can hook the PWM signals from the Arduino directly into the MOSFET, and then the MOSFET to the RECOM LED drivers.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on August 04, 2012, 01:39:53 PM
AWESOME Thanks Jamie. I had a success story today! I rebuilt the RTC that i made myself. I "unwired" everything and made sure it was clean and then redid the wiring and WAHLAH!!! It is working!! the one CR2032 battery was flat so disconnecting would give about 5 seconds to reconnect or i get funny date and time. I had another BUT I am wondering if testing with a multimeter can flatten the battery VERY quickly?

Tried to get temp sensors today but no stock at the place i went to so maybe Monday. Thanks again for your help :)  :You_Rock_Emoticon:

I am also in the throes of buying a CNC. The job market is BAD at the moment and want to get my own thing going so planning on being able to make tank tops - not TANK tops but tank tops  :D, RC plane stuff etc etc. Looking at a Heiz S1000 with a 4th Axis. Also be able to do custom heatsinks to a point.

Anyway - now that it is working I am motivated to buy more stuff hahaha i.e. the LEDs. Already ordered for the sump.

Went out earlier and had a power failure! When i got back everything was dead. Anyway when it all came back on the RTC had held the ime etc!! I am very stoked!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on August 08, 2012, 12:23:57 PM
Yes, that one should be fine.  I think with that particular setup you may improve the circuits performance by adding an ICL7667 Dual Power MOSFET Driver (1 per every 2 channels), or maybe better just 1 equivalent PMIC - MOSFET, Bridge Driver - External Switch with 6 outputs (since the ICL7667 only has 2 outputs).  You can hook the PWM signals from the Arduino directly into the MOSFET, and then the MOSFET to the RECOM LED drivers.

Hey TheDOdblG - I have the schematic of the power LED shields and it is version 2.3 using the RECOM drivers. With that said - I dont see a MOSFET 7667 BUT would IC http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/12118/ONSEMI/MC74AC132NG.html (http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/12118/ONSEMI/MC74AC132NG.html) do the same?

I am going to try throw something together in Eagle - see how it comes out. Will make life a little easier BUT initial build i will just use the perf board route!

AH and before i forget - Your daughter's name is Alexandra and My eldest is Alisandra hahaha
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on August 08, 2012, 12:49:21 PM
STEP 10: ELECTRONICS (Part II)
Next on the diagram is the Power Supply. The choice of power supply depends on the amount of power the hood & various accessories require. I broke it down like this:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171782396756/picture)

Since the LEDs are hooked up in series, the current through each string of LEDs is constant. So by the look of things, the LEDs will draw 8 Amps at most. But this will never be the case since the current is reduced due to the capabilities of the LED drivers utilized, and even further limited via the variable resistors on the Power LED Shields. Also, the SUMP LEDs don’t run at the same time as the daylights, and when they overlap, the intensities are generally low, and therefore a lower current draw. So at most, I estimate the current draw from the LEDs to be around 6.5 A +/- 0.5 A. In actuality (according to measurements),it’s closer to 5 A (due not only to the limits in place, but also to my program’s settings - the values I have chosen for the LEDs). For the Arduino, it would in all likelihood never reach that advertised value, more like half of that at best. The only power being drawn from it is from the temperature sensors. Also, the Hood Fans and the Sump Fans generally don’t run at the same time, and when they do run it’s at a low speed, so the current is usually around either 100 mA or 0 mA. Even at full blast they generally never top 500 mA. Finally, for the feeder, that’s just an estimate. The current the feeder uses to turn the feeding hopper doesn’t all come directly from the PSU, but rather from charged capacitors. A good over estimation of the maximum amount of total current draw would be around 7.1 A +/- 1.0 A. I also went off of the highest total voltage rating for a string of LEDs, 33.75 V. For a good / better tutorial on how to pick out an appropriate power supply, I once again refer you to Chester’s Garage (http://www.chestersgarage.com/reef-aquarium-lighting).
Hey Jamie

In the info above the second shield channel 4 has only 2 LEDs. However your input to the shield is 36 volts!! How did you regulate the particular channel to between 6.4 and 7 volts only? In fact all the channels on Shield 2 have different voltage requirements but with a single 36V input. How is each channel managed?

Thanks again.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on August 08, 2012, 06:35:25 PM
...I have the schematic of the power LED shields and it is version 2.3 using the RECOM drivers. With that said - I dont see a MOSFET 7667 BUT would IC http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/12118/ONSEMI/MC74AC132NG.html (http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/12118/ONSEMI/MC74AC132NG.html) do the same?

I am going to try throw something together in Eagle - see how it comes out. Will make life a little easier BUT initial build i will just use the perf board route!

AH and before i forget - Your daughter's name is Alexandra and My eldest is Alisandra hahaha

Mark's PowerLED shield incorporates a more elegant circuit design than simply using the FET I specified.  With that being said, if you have the schematics for his PowerLED shield, then you will get better results using his design, or some alteration of it...  BTW, I think his shield also incorporates a CMOS.  Anyway, perfboard will work great.

And in case you were wondering, my wife and I named our daughter after my wife's grandfather Alexander.  Alisandra is a very pretty name too!  That was a name we considered, but went with the one closest to Alexander...

...In the info above the second shield channel 4 has only 2 LEDs. However your input to the shield is 36 volts!! How did you regulate the particular channel to between 6.4 and 7 volts only? In fact all the channels on Shield 2 have different voltage requirements but with a single 36V input. How is each channel managed?

The channels (RECOM LED drivers) have a minimum and a maximum output voltage (Vmin & Vmax).  As long as you're in between those values, it is fine.  Those values can be found on the RECOM data sheet (http://www.recom-international.com/pdf/Lightline/RCD-24.pdf).  It should also say how much you can input...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on August 08, 2012, 07:09:34 PM
Hey Jamie, thanks for your response :) I get the input limits but when you have 4 different channels with different output requirements but on the same shield do you adjust the output per channel via the vr or pot with a screwdriver? Hope I am making sense. If each channel was putting 33vdc out I can understand but you would input 36vdc but output requirements are different based on led load i.e. 9 white on one channel and only 2 moonlight on another channel. So one channel need 6.6v out and the other 33v but input to all channels is 36v.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on August 08, 2012, 07:21:08 PM
Hey Jamie, thanks for your response :) I get the input limits but when you have 4 different channels with different output requirements but on the same shield do you adjust the output per channel via the vr or pot with a screwdriver? Hope I am making sense. If each channel was putting 33vdc out I can understand but you would input 36vdc but output requirements are different based on led load i.e. 9 white on one channel and only 2 moonlight on another channel. So one channel need 6.6v out and the other 33v but input to all channels is 36v.

The trimpot is used to adjust the output current, I did appox 5-10% the max drive current for each string of LEDs.. No need to adjust the voltage, as this is handled by the drivers. Just make sure you stay within the limits.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on August 08, 2012, 07:27:45 PM
Hey Jamie, thanks for your response :) I get the input limits but when you have 4 different channels with different output requirements but on the same shield do you adjust the output per channel via the vr or pot with a screwdriver? Hope I am making sense. If each channel was putting 33vdc out I can understand but you would input 36vdc but output requirements are different based on led load i.e. 9 white on one channel and only 2 moonlight on another channel. So one channel need 6.6v out and the other 33v but input to all channels is 36v.

The trimpot is used to adjust the output current, I did appox 5-10% the max drive current for each string of LEDs.. No need to adjust the voltage, as this is handled by the drivers. Just make sure you stay within the limits.

AHHH ok "light has gone on" hehehe Thanks again Jamie and regards to your family from us here in South Africa!!

I have started ordering SSRs, breadboard jumpers (PROPER ones), temp sensors (44 bucks here for one and ordered 6 on ebay for 75 bucks) etc... SO gearing up. Have had the Arduino running for the last 5 days or so and it is faultless!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on August 16, 2012, 08:20:08 PM
Hey Jamie

I have noticed a "flaming" stop watch or something flaming orange/red on the bottom left corner even in screen saver mode. What is that??

Thanks.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on August 17, 2012, 07:46:19 AM
The icon is for the automatic LED dimming feature, available in the "General Settings." I'm still working on "perfecting" it, but it still should work ok. I just have to iron out some issues... In the meantime, you can turn that feature off. If the flame continues to show, you can try clearing the EEPROM and re-upload. You can read up on that feature on page 19 & 20, and probably on a few other pages of this thread...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on August 17, 2012, 12:24:14 PM
AHHH awesome - thanks Jamie. I haven't done my LED build as yet so it would not have made itself obvious hahaha :)
The icon is for the automatic LED dimming feature, available in the "General Settings." I'm still working on "perfecting" it, but it still should work ok. I just have to iron out some issues... In the meantime, you can turn that feature off. If the flame continues to show, you can try clearing the EEPROM and re-upload. You can read up on that feature on page 19 & 20, and probably on a few other pages of this thread...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on August 17, 2012, 01:21:49 PM
I'm guessing you don't have a temp sensor hooked up to the "hoodTempThermometer" then?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on August 17, 2012, 01:34:21 PM
I'm guessing you don't have a temp sensor hooked up to the "hoodTempThermometer" then?

No not yet - i am still awaiting arrival of this temp electronics and also SSRs and capacitors. Should have been here already. Also the other shield for the screen has not arrived but lucky i got the RTC working that i built.

SLOW postage these days! Frustrating to say the least.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: white_shadow on August 25, 2012, 11:07:15 AM
The Jarduino project seems awesome!! The amount of time this must have taken is unreal. I have ordered a touch screen, controller and Mega 2560 and can't wait till it arrives so I can try out the code. I will donate, towards all the hard work, when my stuff arrives from China.

I am fairly new to Arduino and was working on my own aquarium controller and then I found out about the Jarduino and it really puts my project to shame. My project is running on a Freetronics Arduino Eleven, 20x4 LCD, LM335 temperature sensors and LED strips. The 12V LED strips I'm using are impressive though at 720 lumens per metre. I have 3600 lumens on my 4 foot freshwater tropical tank and my plants love it.

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on August 25, 2012, 01:40:02 PM
Theres no shame to diy at all budd, get some pics up of your old build

kev

And a very warm welcome to you
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: white_shadow on August 26, 2012, 03:25:43 AM
Theres no shame to diy at all budd, get some pics up of your old build

kev

And a very warm welcome to you

Thanks Kev
Here is some pics of my old build. I can't wait to start on the Jarduino. I plan to start a reef tank with the Jarduino as the controller.

The future developments planned for the Jarduino sound great. WiFi, PH, Salinty etc.

James
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: keithy on August 26, 2012, 11:25:08 AM
that looks really neat and tidy,
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 09, 2012, 09:11:11 PM
just need to clear something up with regards to the temperature sensor on proto board 1. I know someone would have brought it up earlier just 26 pages is alot of reading to find the answer.

As per the diagram for the temperature sensor pin which is auduino pin 51 and it says this has a 47 kΩ resistor installed. I have installed a 47 kΩ resistor but when looking at the diagram for the sensors, this says it should be a 4.7 kΩ.

I know this is a stupid question but is should this be a 4.7 kΩ. Things are going well on my build atm, I only get time for a few connections a night but I think I am nearly there. Next I will be trying to work out how to upload the latest build to it.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on September 10, 2012, 12:43:18 AM
just need to clear something up with regards to the temperature sensor on proto board 1. I know someone would have brought it up earlier just 26 pages is alot of reading to find the answer.

As per the diagram for the temperature sensor pin which is auduino pin 51 and it says this has a 47 kΩ resistor installed. I have installed a 47 kΩ resistor but when looking at the diagram for the sensors, this says it should be a 4.7 kΩ.

I know this is a stupid question but is should this be a 4.7 kΩ. Things are going well on my build atm, I only get time for a few connections a night but I think I am nearly there. Next I will be trying to work out how to upload the latest build to it.

it should be one 4.7 kΩ resistor. Resistor Bands should be Yellow, then Purple, then Red
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on September 10, 2012, 07:49:27 PM
Good news!  I finally recieved the last of the parts I ordered to test out compatibility with the Jarduino today.  Well, I just finished testing them, and now I can finally finish writing the step-by-step User Manual and get it uploaded (either later today or tomorrow).  I may be getting a little carried away with trying to make it as easy as possible for everyone.  So far it is around 40 pages long but is easy to navigate through.  I made it a PDF document with a Table of Contents, it has a lot of pictures and diagrams, and has internal & external hyperlinks.  Some of the info I took from my thread, but there's a lot of new stuff in there, and the best part is, you no longer have to go to multiple threads to figure out how to built your very own Jarduino!

Anyway, in case anyone is interested, the parts I got over the past few months for testing were an ITDB02 v2.0 shield, TFT LCD MEGA Shield v1.2 by ElecFreaks, various RTC parts, a pre-assembled RTC Module, and a few other miscellaneous parts.  I am now 100% certain when I say things are compatible, or can be modified so they are compatible, they indeed are.  A lot of you purchased some of these items listed, only later to realize that mabye they were the "wrong" parts.  Well the good news is, they are perfectly fine to use.  All you have to do is make sure you follow the steps I've outlined and assemble them correctly.

Sorry to keep you guys waiting so long on this.  I promise you, though, it is well worth it!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on September 10, 2012, 07:58:44 PM
Brilliant News Dude Many Thanks Look forward to looking at this :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 10, 2012, 08:11:34 PM
Sounds great. Shame its arriving now that i am almost completed. As long as you read slowly and do it bit by bit copying from page 3 it al goes well. Well i aint tested yet but i just need to make some connector cables and it will be ready. Will be handly to double check everything before switching on and blowing up haha.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 10, 2012, 09:46:31 PM
well got most of the parts all ordered today and just have to wait on the slow boat to get to the states but I should see stuff showing up soon from us vendors hope all goes well


Cant wait to look at the manual :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on September 12, 2012, 09:30:52 AM
55 pages later, and the initial draft of the Jarduino User Manual (http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/downloads/detail?name=JARDUINO%20USER%20MANUAL%20v1.2%20beta.pdf&can=2&q=) has finally been completed!  Please PM me if you spot any errors or if you think I should add/remove anything.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on September 12, 2012, 09:34:50 AM
Many Thanks Dude
Just Down Loaded will have a read :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on September 12, 2012, 09:54:01 AM
Nice one budd and think i can speak for the majority of diyers a huge thank you for all your effort
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on September 12, 2012, 10:44:02 AM
Well defiantly well Impressed Jamie Had a quick look but will have a good read tonight :)
Like Kev said Many Thanks Dude Top work as always Dude  :You_Rock_Emoticon:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: lesd on September 12, 2012, 08:17:44 PM
Many thanks from France

 ^-^
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 13, 2012, 03:18:26 AM
Looks good so far will read it all in the am
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on September 13, 2012, 05:23:21 PM
Great write up, you've really made it a step by step guide  :bravo_2:

I am about to order my parts as recommended from ITead and to simplify things also get my 2560 mega from there also.  Do you know if this http://imall.iteadstudio.com/im120726004.html is OK to use.

Thanks for your help
Steve
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on September 13, 2012, 07:36:23 PM
Great write up, you've really made it a step by step guide  :bravo_2:

I am about to order my parts as recommended from ITead and to simplify things also get my 2560 mega from there also.  Do you know if this http://imall.iteadstudio.com/im120726004.html is OK to use.

Thanks for your help
Steve

While I'm sure it's compatible, the pin layout is different, so it would complicate shield connections. I would just get one from eBay. Seeing that package made me realize I may have forgotten to mention the need for a 7-12V AC to DC adapter for powering your Arduino.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: jpb83 on September 13, 2012, 10:26:23 PM
Hello Jaimie
Another "Great Thanks" from France
great work      :bravo_2:
jpb
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on September 13, 2012, 10:59:27 PM
Great write up, you've really made it a step by step guide  :bravo_2:

I am about to order my parts as recommended from ITead and to simplify things also get my 2560 mega from there also.  Do you know if this http://imall.iteadstudio.com/im120726004.html is OK to use.

Thanks for your help
Steve

While I'm sure it's compatible, the pin layout is different, so it would complicate shield connections. I would just get one from eBay. Seeing that package made me realize I may have forgotten to mention the need for a 7-12V AC to DC adapter for powering your Arduino.

Thanks for the heads up

Would either of these eBay units be ok ?

itemId=110934453980
itemId=230837830937

Cheers
Steve
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on September 13, 2012, 11:08:29 PM
They Do not look bad
Look to be the right ones But Jamie Can Confirm :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on September 14, 2012, 05:04:47 AM
Would either of these eBay units be ok ?

itemId=110934453980
itemId=230837830937

Cheers
Steve

Either one is fine. Both sellers have over 99% feedback rating, but the 2nd is a little cheaper, so I'd go with that one...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on September 14, 2012, 10:08:11 AM
Yea I am Learning lol
Thanks For the Confirmation Dude :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 14, 2012, 10:14:58 AM
Great work Jamie. I have a small question regarding powering tunze power heads if anyone has experimented with this. Currently you are using the relays to power the 230v on and off alternatively, but from what I can grasp from looking around on the internet. Tunze pumps put out 8v from the driver to the controller and the controller will alter the 8v to make the pump work.

So 8v back to pump will be full power. 4v will be half power and then no power will be off. Would is be possible to control these pumps with the control unit. I have two of these pumps and will want them to alternate on full power through the day then at night or during feeding the pumps will slow down to half speed and stll alternate.

Im sure this can be done but I was going to build two DIY controllers but I dont think it would work totally automatic and it will probably be easier to just to proto board it from the jarduino.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on September 14, 2012, 02:35:19 PM
Would either of these eBay units be ok ?

itemId=110934453980
itemId=230837830937

Cheers
Steve

Either one is fine. Both sellers have over 99% feedback rating, but the 2nd is a little cheaper, so I'd go with that one...

Thanks - everything ordered  :93:

Just got to wait for delivery now !
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 14, 2012, 05:08:56 PM
HI
are these ok for this build I cant order from ebay but looks like the same thing

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Freeshipping-offer-Tracking-number-3-2-TFT-LCD-Display-Touch-Screen-Panel-PCB-adapter-w-SD/573372331.html

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-2pcs-lot-Brand-new-Mega-2560-ATmega2560-16AU-Microcontroller-Board-with-USB-Cable-for/624118105.html

Thanks Dale
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on September 14, 2012, 06:45:02 PM
HI
are these ok for this build I cant order from ebay but looks like the same thing

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Freeshipping-offer-Tracking-number-3-2-TFT-LCD-Display-Touch-Screen-Panel-PCB-adapter-w-SD/573372331.html

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-2pcs-lot-Brand-new-Mega-2560-ATmega2560-16AU-Microcontroller-Board-with-USB-Cable-for/624118105.html

Thanks Dale

It appears there may be some conflicting info as to the screen size in the item description. Is it 3.2 or is it 2.4? Although both appear to be the right thing. You will still need an adapter (ie ITDB02 v1.1 with RTC) like this:  http://imall.iteadstudio.com/im120717001.html (http://imall.iteadstudio.com/im120717001.html). That place also sells LCD's (http://imall.iteadstudio.com/display/tft-lcm/im120419005.html), but for slightly more. There's no question of compatibility with them however. Pick your poison...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 14, 2012, 06:53:19 PM
Hi jamie

I know I saw the same thing I have the ITDB02 v1.1 on order just have to wait till it all starts to show up.

I ordered some 4 pin square molex connectors I plan on haveing every thing plug in to the side of a project box so if I have to move some thing I just unplug what ever I want from the side of the box. all the plugs will use 22 AWG wire should work for 12v and for the 5v also.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 15, 2012, 09:09:27 PM
Please help. I have connected everything up and running. The screens fine, the temp sensors are fine. The only issue I am having is dimming my LEDS

I am using 3w LED Driver MBI6651 drivers which say they have a 5v pwm input for controlling the lights. The manual for these units is http://www.sure-electronics.net/download/LE-LL11114_Ver1.0_EN.pdf my issue is the lights are not dimming at all.

Im not sure if its down to an incorrect frequency or what but I am totally lost. There is just no adjustment what so ever. In the manual it says the PWM frequency supported is 100hz to 1khz.

Anyone have any idea on this?

EDIT**

Just thought I would mension, I have connected the pin on the protoboard 2 direct to the DIM connection on the small driver, this may be my fault but im not sure what otherway to connect up.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on September 15, 2012, 09:36:35 PM
Did you also connect the Arduino GND to the driver(s)?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 15, 2012, 09:39:16 PM
I was just writing that when you posted. The arduino ground is not common to the drivers. But im not sure how I should connect the ground to the drivers as it already has the ground from the 35v psu. I do have a 9v drop down converter which I was just about to go and wire up to try. If i use this, will it make my ground common to the led's

so close but yet so far
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 15, 2012, 09:48:20 PM
Just been back and wired up my arduino with my 9v drop down converter off the same PSU as the drivers and the LED's dim nicely. I can hear abit of a high pitch squeel after this is connected. not sure whether its coming from my PSU or the drivers. Will investigate that tomorrow as I am really happy that this is all going well.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on September 15, 2012, 10:23:13 PM
You are hearing the LEDs. Those pwm signals are in the audible range. If I change the frequency of some of those channels, it will mess up the timing functions in the sketch (delay and millis)... 

Anyway, good job Peter! Looking forward to seeing some pics of your build.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 15, 2012, 11:31:36 PM
Yeah, i will get some pics sorted out tomorrow hopefully. At the min it all looks abit of a messwith wires everywhere, but will tidy it all up tomorrow. I also had a strange issue with my screen breakout board ith time clock on. If i had it on the temp sensors would not work so i chopped off the 51 pin going into it and seemed to sort it. No idea why. It coukd have been down to the script not fully uploading oproperly as my laptop was playing up with the arduino software and crashing alot. I had cut the pin off before using my proper computer and it worked. Obv my screen doesnt need the 51 pin and it works so al leave it as that.

Im really starting to get into this arduino stuff. I was reading through your script before and if read properly its not that hard to understand but must have taken days for you to write. Not saying i could do it as there no chance of that but i think changing minor things is a start. Hats off to you!!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: keithy on September 16, 2012, 04:55:00 PM
Thanks Jamie,you are a star,carnt wait to my bits come and ill give it a go with your step by step , i think ill be ok,ill read it about 10 more times,lol so thanks again for all your hard work,and once im up and running i will donate,
                        Keith   :whoo:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 17, 2012, 02:14:38 PM
I have 4 drivers meanwell lpc-60-1050 thay are not dimmable but I thought there was a way to make them dim up and down
is it safe to do and what would I need if there is a way.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 17, 2012, 03:49:52 PM
I have never attempted this as I dont think its possible. I have tried reading to find out if it is possible and the end result is that it is better to just buy dimmable units.

I was planning on using the 60-48P's on my first build until I lost one of them so I turned to the small MBI6651 drivers. other people use the RECOM ones which seems to be the way to go like. The MBI6651 drivers  cost me £4 and a 35v psu cost £25 so was cheaper than buying dimmable meanwell units and they take a signal direct from the arduino rather than having to make a 10v PWM circuit.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 17, 2012, 08:29:19 PM
thank you for your input on the drivers. I think I am going to use the drivers meant for dimming. rapid led will let trade in the non dimming one for the 60-48p ones. how do you like the MBI6651 I will look at those as an alternative

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 18, 2012, 04:01:56 PM
I got a free gift today 12v @20A power supply for free from some old lab set up that is getting torn down :)
should be enough power to run my controller.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on September 19, 2012, 05:26:17 PM
I've decided to begin expanding the user-friendliness of the Jarduino by adding in the ability to choose the display language.  You will be able to choose your language directly on the Jarduino, so no need for users to mess around with the code.  Based on the frequency of donations from various countries, and the predominant language spoken in those countries, in addition to English I've decided to include the following languages:

1. French (français)
2. Russian (русский)
3. Spanish (español)

I just started working on this, so it may be a while before I crank this version out.  I'm still considering adding a few other languages (Portuguese & Italian).


PS - If you're a Jarduino Beta tester (must be familiar with v1.2+), and you're fluent in one of the mentioned languages, and you would like to proof-read the translations, please email or pm me so I can send you the translations.  I really appreciate any help I can get here!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 22, 2012, 12:55:00 AM
Got the screen today
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 22, 2012, 11:16:52 AM
I have not totally run them flat out for a long amount of time as I am still putting it all together and my large tank is not installed in new house yet.

Im having an issue at the minute with extending the cable from the lcd shield to the screen. I have used two scart cables which are 20 wire each ( as there are 40 wires) I have belled each wire out to make sure they are on the correct pins but I am only getting a white screen. Any ideas as its really annoying me. I have also tried a 40pin IDE cable and get the same thing. I thought it maybe a fault on my IDE cable so i made one but I still have the same fault.

Any ideas anyone??
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 22, 2012, 02:29:10 PM
 I have sorted my small issue regarding extending the LCD. No idea why it would not work but I used some wires I got for solderless connections on other break out boards and plugged them in and it works. only a couple of inch long but enough to get the unit out the way.

The issue I am having now is the temperature sensorsl. I have the unit plugged and powered by my usb and they arent recognised when all plugged in. I can plug them in one at a time and they are recognised but not all of them. I have plugged a 6v psu for external power thinking it was that but still the same. HELP PLEASE !!!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on September 22, 2012, 03:11:33 PM
I described in detail how to hook up your temp sensors in the user manual. Did you enter the temp sensor addresses into the sketch properly?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 22, 2012, 03:16:50 PM
when I am trying to get the address's in your manual it pops up and says 3 sensors found. when i connect mine up it doesnt show anything, the sump one just aint found even on its own When I unplug them all and just have one in it finds it. I have measured the voltages with all in and just one and it is still at 4.9v its just stumped me.

Im not sure wether its down to putting the voltage down the same cable as the power is or if am looking into this to deep. Is there any maximum distances we can have these as the one to my sump which is not getting recognised at all is on the longest cable which is about 2.5m the cables bell out just dont get recognised
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on September 22, 2012, 03:26:19 PM
Distance doesn't matter so much, but connecting them properly and making sure you have the correct addresses entered into the Jarduino does. Post some pics of how you got them hooked up, and also take a screen shot of your temp adresses, one from the "tester" sketch, and another from where you enter those addresses in the Jarduino.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 22, 2012, 03:43:05 PM
below is when all three are plugged in nothing is recognised

(http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g420/peter_g_2004/IMAG0442_zps82876771.jpg)
(http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g420/peter_g_2004/3pluggedinnotrecognised_zps7fa0de02.png)

with one unplugged it recognises
(http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g420/peter_g_2004/IMAG0443_zps31c198c3.jpg)
(http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g420/peter_g_2004/1pluggedin_zps3201cdca.png)

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 22, 2012, 03:46:20 PM
i am going to change the temp sensor in my sump box so I can rule that out as its not even recognised but cant understand the other two
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 22, 2012, 04:04:01 PM
just cut the temp sensor and out of the sump box and connected it straight to the terminals and it is recognised. I had one of the other sensors in aswell and it found that one aswell so I had two found at once.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on September 22, 2012, 04:20:00 PM
Can you take some pictures of your proto Shields? Circle the connections again.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 22, 2012, 04:40:17 PM
Rather embarrased now. I run through my circuits and noticed I had a 47kohm resistor not a 4.7kohm.

Raplaced and all three are working. Thankyou for your help.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 22, 2012, 06:03:32 PM
another small question. I havent got a 12v step down transformer yet. so I connected upto the 9v for the fans. I know they wouldnt run as fast but they just dont run at all. Is this not enough power for the transistor or something or will I just have to wait for the step down to arrive?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 22, 2012, 07:12:53 PM
I would like to see some up close pics of your boards aslo and maybe a description of the set up please.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on September 22, 2012, 10:54:18 PM
another small question. I havent got a 12v step down transformer yet. so I connected upto the 9v for the fans. I know they wouldnt run as fast but they just dont run at all. Is this not enough power for the transistor or something or will I just have to wait for the step down to arrive?

You can try hooking just the power wires (black & red) to your 9v and see if it's enough juice for the fans to work (don't hook up the pwm wire for this part, since you're just testing it).  If it does work, then maybe your on/off circuit is staying "off" due to your "Fan Startup Temps" settings, or maybe the circuit isn't hooked up correctly.  You can also take some close-up pics of your shield(s) along with descriptions so I can see what you did...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 23, 2012, 06:24:20 PM
Below are some pictures of my build. It basically looks the same as jamies apart from a few slightly different parts and not very good soldering. I have labelled the top views but left the bottom so all can be seen better.

I have tried putting the 9v to the fan directly and it works but once connected even without the pwm there is no power getting there. Should I get the power out of the connectors at all times or is it switched via the transistor?
Proto1
(http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g420/peter_g_2004/proto1front_zpse48542cc.jpg)
(http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g420/peter_g_2004/proto1back_zpsfe3a22ab.jpg)
Proto 2
(http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g420/peter_g_2004/proto2front_zpsa8ba56ce.jpg)
(http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g420/peter_g_2004/proto2bac_zps3fefe549.jpg)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 24, 2012, 05:38:22 PM
glad you got it up and going :)

I keep looking at the pics but I think the longer I look at them the more lost I get to where I should solder every thing.The board I have is a little diffrent from dfrobot I think that is what is making crazy.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 24, 2012, 06:14:29 PM
The only problem i can see for you with diff boards is when stacking the lcd board on. If we only used one board, the pins would be  offsetso always need an even number of break out boards. The manual explains it all better so you just need to copy each circuit one by one and you will be fine. My fan circuits dont work so i will have to go through it all properly. Maybe copying was a bad idea but most worked.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 24, 2012, 06:50:17 PM
that is what I am trying to do is copy them. I bought the mega proto boards from dfrobot. When the arrived they are a diffrnt layout then the one you and jamie have reset button is in the middle of the board and so is ICSP so I cant just copy.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 24, 2012, 06:58:02 PM
Go from a different direction and copy point to point and if theres no space it can be moved. I got the prebuilt from df and they wouldnt stack properly so i got unbuilt ones.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 24, 2012, 07:14:22 PM
I will give it a go whats the worst thing I might have to buy a few new boards.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 24, 2012, 07:31:23 PM
I also bought the pre built boards from df mine stack ok. Am I right in thinking I can just solder small wires to the top of the proto boards along the side where the pins are for example where pin 44 is for the pwm fan can I just solder directly to that pin and then run the wire to a panel mount plug on my box that will house the jarduino? Then I can plug my pwm fan wire in that plug and it should work. I hope I explained that right
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 24, 2012, 08:05:20 PM
Yeah, solder straight onto the solder joint for the pin not to the pin itself as its for stacking. The centers are all single pins for joints and aren't linked to any pins except the top and bottom rails which are 5v and ground.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 24, 2012, 08:23:48 PM
I was thinking I am going that route I am not placing the unit in a hood I am putting it in a  box on top of the tank so i can move it or take it off if I need to. each connection need for lights or fans or what ever will be a 4 pin molex connector on the side of the box, each fan or temp prob will be on a separate 22awg line that plugs in to the side of the box. 22awg should be able to carry power and pwm to fans and also do temp probes. after looking at your pics a little more am I right in thinking you soldered one end of the wire to pins and just moved them out in to the Field of the board to add a plug. by soldering to what ever connector pins you have.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 24, 2012, 08:57:37 PM
Exactly that. Shame i didnt have proper molex holders as my plugs just fall off if pulled lightly hard to get hold of 90 pcb molex headers. I tink i might end up same route as you putting it in a box with connectors on outside. Will get some pics of my drivers and leds and that sorted by end of the week.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 24, 2012, 09:26:09 PM
I been looking at threw hole mounted plugs M&F ones would a screw sheild do all this for me if I can find one to fit on a mega???
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 24, 2012, 10:38:07 PM
You totally lost me with your last post, im not familiar with connectors and names. Just what comes off any old stuff I replace at work is what I use.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 25, 2012, 01:58:05 PM
the molex I plan on using for the case mount are these http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261096592297&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:3160  they are P9 computer mother board connection for power they are also called 4 pin square molex


the screw sheild is like this http://imall.iteadstudio.com/im120417013.html mounts on your arduino then you can screw wires on to the terminal instead of soldering

hope this makes it a little clear

Dale
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on September 25, 2012, 04:51:14 PM
...the screw sheild is like this http://imall.iteadstudio.com/im120417013.html mounts on your arduino then you can screw wires on to the terminal instead of soldering...

Be careful, by the look of things, that screw shield is NOT directly compatible with the Arduino MEGA:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676818965665371/picture)
I do like this particular screw shield, since it's one of the only one's I've seen with a prototyping area (and is at a very reasonable 5 EUR / $6.50 USD + shipping?), but just know you will have trouble stacking it since it's specifically designed for the UNO & Duemilanove.  If you compare the MEGA to this shield, you'll quickly notice this shield is missing 54 pins which I've indicated in red (various rx/tx pins, a bunch of analog pins, and all the digitials "at the end"), many of which are required for the ITDB02 MEGA Shield and LCD Shield.  The ITDB02 MEGA and LCD Shields "need" to be at the top of the stack, so putting this screw shield in the middle of the stack will present unnecessary obstacles...

The only screw shield I've seen for the MEGA unfortunately does NOT have a prototyping area, just a bunch of wasted space & a high price:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676818968998704/picture)
To me, it looks like a nice big green central park.  You want to go play in it, but unfortunately there's an invisible sign that reads "Stay Off the Grass!"  Not having a prototyping area means you may still need some prototyping boards (perfboard, PCB, protoshield, etc.) to build your circuits.  This screw shield seems pointless to me because of the missing prototyping area and the fact that you can easily access these pins at no cost both at the top of the ITDB02 v1.1 MEGA Shield and at the bottom of the Arduino itself.  FYI - this MEGA screw shield costs 21 EUR (~$27.10 USD) for a kit that you assemble yourself, fully assembled it costs 25 EUR (~$32.25 USD) and shipping to the states is an additional 10.5 EUR (~$13.55).  So in total it's 31.5-35.5 EUR ($40.66-45.82 USD).  If you're still interested, here's the website (http://www.aqualed-light.com/?sec=home&id=1758).  It's in Portuguese.

I imagine the main reason for interest in these screw shields is the ability to quickly connect/disconnect wires.  For about 2 dollars or so, you can make your own quick connect/disconnect system using short pieces of wire soldered to the Arduino pins you want and simply crimp on some spade/bullet terminals like these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-X-Blue-Male-Female-Bullet-Connector-Crimp-Terminals-Wiring-/370626955024?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Connectors_Terminals&hash=item564b168710):
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1070055_676818955665372_954223291_n.jpg)



@ Peter - have you had a chance to test your fans as I've instructed a few days back?
You can try hooking just the power wires (black & red) to your 9v and see if it's enough juice for the fans to work (don't hook up the pwm wire for this part, since you're just testing it).  If it does work, then maybe your on/off circuit is staying "off" due to your "Fan Startup Temps" settings, or maybe the circuit isn't hooked up correctly.  You can also take some close-up pics of your shield(s) along with descriptions so I can see what you did...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on September 25, 2012, 05:27:09 PM
I think that one is a waste of time. Im the worlds worst solderer and i would rather solder and make do that use the terminals. Better connection aswell.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 26, 2012, 03:25:57 PM
I was thinking that a screw shield would of made it easier to hook up the wires but I haven't been able to find a mega one or at least one that wasn't close to $50. I believe soldering them is going to be the best way to go I do like the idea of soldering on quick connects I have all the parts for that all ready.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Daka on September 26, 2012, 05:04:26 PM
Must say you guys are well on your way.     :c029:     I just started to do my system.(DIY LED Lights) I have been in touch with Jamie and I will be doing the build with some extras, ATO and water change. 
I have a 90 gal DT and a30 gal sump. I am using a new ANTEC computer case, an extra 300watt PS which has all the needed voltages 3,5, and 12. Only thing missing is the 24 for my LEDS which I have a separate PS which will go in it, plus and all PCBs. It comes with four fans so all should stay cool.. I will be using cables CAT6E for signals and low voltage to the DT and sump.
Hope to put up pictures as I go. I am using Steve's LED drivers. They are pretty neat and not that much money.
Keep up the great work.
 Skip
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 26, 2012, 07:15:16 PM
 :welcome:  Daka
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 27, 2012, 01:29:35 AM
I got my screen today and uploaded the jarduino code to it and it seems to work great i just have to make the probes now and i will be all sorted.

Jamie this rocks I really hope you continue with this.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on September 27, 2012, 04:57:47 PM
Hey Jamie

Just been reading through you guide - Great job by the way !

On page 20 you havre the PWM Hood fan schematic.  It shows the Arduino ground connected to -12V, Is this correct ?

Also do you know if it would be possible to run the DS18B20 in single wire parasitic mode without problem.

Cheers for any reply
Steve

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on September 27, 2012, 07:54:14 PM
On page 20 you havre the PWM Hood fan schematic.  It shows the Arduino ground connected to -12V, Is this correct ?

Yes. I say -12, or it can be looked at as the "negative" or "ground."  You hook up the Arduino GND to this to make them "common." Also notice both are connected to the transistor's emitter.

Quote
Also do you know if it would be possible to run the DS18B20 in single wire parasitic mode without problem.

I don't see why not, although I haven't tried.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: ElectricCraft1 on September 28, 2012, 09:49:58 PM
What would be involved in doing a 7 or 10 inch, 4 wire tft?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on September 29, 2012, 11:01:23 PM
I asked a smiler question and I believe it isn't
That easy
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on September 30, 2012, 02:47:08 AM
What would be involved in doing a 7 or 10 inch, 4 wire tft?

Dale's right, it wouldn't be easy.  There's ~6000 lines of code in the Jarduino, so you'd have to go through all of it and change the formatting, as it is expressly written for a screensize of 320x240.  And only 4 wires?  The LCD screen uses over 20 pins on the Arduino, so you'd need at least that many wires, and the TFT (touch) part that goes over the LCD uses at least 5 more pins...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 01, 2012, 03:19:15 PM
Got all most every thing now need for making my jarduino's I have box's for them I got from a friend. I think I am not going to use the proto boards just going to wire the pins direct to the out lets on the side of the box's where I am using 4pin P9 square molex that way I can use more than one pin per plug or 1 pin and + and - 12V or what ever combo of 4 wires I need.



Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 02, 2012, 04:43:27 PM
Just want to give people  heads up on the proto board's or maybe just mine. anyway I bought the pre-made ones on this page SKU:DFR0087 | Brand:DFRobot

http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=123_125

problem is they DO NOT STACK or at least mine don't the pins are soldered on the inside rail not the outside and the double 18 row at the head pins 22-53 need to have one soldered on inside row and the second board needs that to be on the out side row I hope this helps some one I know some one had asked if there was a difference in buying premade ones some whee in this thread
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on October 04, 2012, 12:55:11 AM
got some of those spare in the outhouse lol

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on October 04, 2012, 04:26:03 PM
Dale, thats what i was trying to say in one of my earlier posts about pre made not stacking which is why the unaasembled are needed and it has to be even numbers of proto boards for the lcd board to stack onto.

Luckily i bought mine off a uk ebay person who let me send them back and exchanged for unassembled for no charge..

Ive been rather busy the past couple of weeks, which is why i aint been on. Hows your build coming along??
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on October 04, 2012, 05:29:06 PM
Ok - so I've got as far as connecting my mega 2560 and sorting out the driver errors that windows 7 threw up.  My next problem is that when I try to load the Arduino enviroment it will not start up and puts an error message stating "Java Development Kit 1.5.0 or later required".

Is this correct and if so where can I download a safe version from ?

Cheers
Steve
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 04, 2012, 06:00:52 PM
www.java.com
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on October 05, 2012, 01:33:49 PM
www.java.com

Thanks Jamie, I can load up the ide now.  :bravo_2:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 05, 2012, 02:19:07 PM
Dale, that's what i was trying to say in one of my earlier posts about pre made not stacking which is why the unaasembled are needed and it has to be even numbers of proto boards for the lcd board to stack onto.

Luckily i bought mine off a uk ebay person who let me send them back and exchanged for unassembled for no charge..

Ive been rather busy the past couple of weeks, which is why i aint been on. Hows your build coming along??

Mine is going ok I have almost every thing to start on it been getting a lot of little box's in the mail over the last few days. I have to reorder the proto boards but other than that I should start on my box's soon. I was also thinking that I dint really need to use proto boards I can use jumper wires and go from the mega to the plugs on the side of the controller box. that would save me time and money and be a little easier to do. I can't think of any reason that it can't be done, I am mounting my controller on the out side of the hood with wires running from it to where ever they have to go in the tank, hood and sump. If any one has any ideas or why I shouldn't do this please past the info.


Dale
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on October 05, 2012, 05:27:38 PM
Theres is no reason this cant be done, just what i would say is the small circuits for the fans with transistors will have to go somewere. I think its neatest on protoboards as its all in one place. The pwm for lights is the only pins that go directly to load.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 05, 2012, 06:12:37 PM
I mentioned in the User Manual you don't need the proto shields, and I said you can directly solder your stuff to either the bottom of the Arduino or to the top of the ITDB02 Shield.  You can always just "float" the circuits, but if you do just make sure they can't accidently come in contact with other circuits, or anything conductive for that matter since you want to avoid any shorts.  I do think they help make everything neat and tidy, but to each his own.  Do whatever works for you, as long as all your connections are correct, you should be good to go.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 05, 2012, 06:44:59 PM
I think I should use at least on proto board to put all the stuff on that I need. also going to use a large piece of Velcro on the bottom of the mega to stick it to the bottom of the controller box or maybe glue in a few small stand offs.

The User Manual is where I go the idea. to not use the proto boards I am still not sure how I want to set it all up still waiting on some stuff from china so I have a few days.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: peter_g_2004 on October 05, 2012, 07:59:29 PM
If you use one board you will have to use two (even) as the lcd shield wont stack if you dont. Unless i am wrong but the first shield puts all the pins out and the second one brings them back in.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 05, 2012, 08:43:17 PM
If you use one board you will have to use two (even) as the lcd shield wont stack if you dont. Unless i am wrong but the first shield puts all the pins out and the second one brings them back in.

For those particular shields, a way you can get away with using just one shield is to use headers with extended pins, long enough so they go through the board and make good coonections with the header pins on the Arduino below.  I found some available from some seller in the UK on eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-Stackable-Header-Kit-Extended-Extra-long-15mm-Pins-/130776236124?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item1e72df005c).  Also, found them available at DFrobot in 6-pin (http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=562) and 8-pin (http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=561) configurations.  I'm sure you can get them elsewhere, that's just what I found with a quick search of "Arduino Stackable Headers Extended."  A google search will also bring up how to make extended stackable headers yourself "on the cheap."

EDIT:  It's worth mentioning - Using extended stackable headers in place of the headers you get with those protoshields will provide you with a great advantage.  All the pins through holes that would normally be used up by the parallel running headers to extend the proto shield from one board to the next would thus be freed up for you to use for your connections to peripherals. Just another thought...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 08, 2012, 06:39:21 PM
I was thinking how I can run the wire for the temp probe I was thinking of using 22awg 3 conductor that I have for pin 51, 5v and gnd

how would I connect 5 temp probes to it? I will have 4 8x10 heatsinks spaced out in the hood the last one will be probally 8 feet away then 6 then 4 then probally 2 or 3 feet I don't want to have the wire pulled tight. also one in the tank as well. And maybe one in sump I am looking for away to hook up all these so it looks good and not a bunch of spliced wires and black tape. Is there some kinda connector to use or some thing I was thinking one main line with all the wires coming off that.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 08, 2012, 06:53:46 PM
Something that might work well and you may already have a bunch laying around is phone cables.  You can even use phone jacks, splitters, etc.  They generally have 3 or 4 wires in them.  If you plan on using more than one sensor to monitor your main lights, you will have to adjust the code some.  Keep in mind a few things rely on these readings, so you have to decide which readings you would want to use.  In particular, these readings control fan speed and automatic LED dimming on High Temperature if selected.  Also, you will have to add in more coding to display the readings for the additional sensors...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 08, 2012, 07:36:51 PM
went back to the manual after reading your post. reread it and seen the part about using 3 temp probes I was thinking I could use more than that with the code the way it is guess it makes that easier :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 08, 2012, 08:39:54 PM
phone lines are a good idea i do have a few of them around the office. I bet I can add 3 phone connections to my control box to then tie them all together inside.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 08, 2012, 09:55:12 PM
phone lines are a good idea i do have a few of them around the office. I bet I can add 3 phone connections to my control box to then tie them all together inside.

You can probably mount something like this 3-way splitter to your control box for a nice clean look:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676822478998353/picture)

Just make sure all the output connectors have at least 3 connections.  Many of these splitters only provide for 2 connections...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on October 10, 2012, 08:36:47 AM
I just soldered on to the 1.2 mega shield will get some pics on today if i have time
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on October 11, 2012, 01:31:05 PM
Hi All

Help required

So far I have purchased the Mega 2560, the ITDB02 Arduino MEGA Shield Kit v1.1 and the ITDB02-3.2S screen.  I have assembled the shield, plugged it all together and followed Jamies step by step guide for the Jarduino v1.1 – April 8, 2012 sketch.

I have cleared the EEprom and uploaded the sketch, the problem I have is all I get is a white screen no matter what I try.

Can anyone offer any ideas

Cheers
Steve
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 11, 2012, 01:55:41 PM
Make sure you selected the correct LCD module around line 147 in the sketch. Provide a link to where you purchased your screen if you can.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on October 11, 2012, 02:35:17 PM
Hi Jamie

Once again thanks for the reply.

The screen is the one you reccommended. http://imall.iteadstudio.com/display/tft-lcm/im120419005.html

The sketch is v1.1 and the code looks like this at line 90:

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 11, 2012, 02:52:33 PM
With that screen, you need to change line 92 to this:

ITDB02 myGLCD(38,39,40,41, ITDB32S);
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on October 11, 2012, 03:35:09 PM
 :whoo:

Cheers Jamie i have something on my screen now !

I have got the following errors though
 
Binary sketch size: 153850 bytes (of a 258048 byte maximum)
avrdude: stk500v2_recv(): checksum error
avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x21408
         0x80 != 0x0e
avrdude: verification error; content mismatch

Is this anything to worry about ?

ps If i get this working and prove my LEDs are ok I'll make a donation and upgrade to the v1.2
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 11, 2012, 04:32:34 PM
...I have got the following errors though
 
Binary sketch size: 153850 bytes (of a 258048 byte maximum)
avrdude: stk500v2_recv(): checksum error
avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x21408
         0x80 != 0x0e
avrdude: verification error; content mismatch

Is this anything to worry about ?

There may be pause for concern.  This has nothing at all to do with the Jarduino code, but rather your Arduino Hardware.

A few things you could try (but I wouldn't recommend others trying this unless getting the exact same errors), open up Device Manager in Windows and change your PORT settings:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676823342331600/picture)
With your Arduino plugged into your computer, but the Arduino IDE closed
1. Open Device Manager
2. Go down to Ports (COM & LPT) and expand
3. Right click on "Arduino Mega..." and click on Properites
4. When the dialog box opens, select the "Port Settings" tab
5. In the pic above, for the first red circle change the "Bits per second" to "115200"
6. Make sure the other fields are the same as pictured
7. In the 2nd red circle, change "Flow Control" to either "Xon / Xoff" and if that doesn't work, try "Hardware"
8. Click "OK" and open up Jarduino v1.1
9. On line 4421, change "Serial.begin(9600);" to "Serial.begin(115200);"
10. Try to re-upload and see if you get that error message again.  If so, follow the steps and make the change in step 7. 

If after following the steps I laid out for you and you still get the error, then it's probably one of two things:
       a. the bootloader on your Arduino is currupt
       b. the atmega chip on your Arduino is damaged

If it's one of the two things above, you can try reflashing the bootloader (search for instructions on how to do this online), or get yourself a new Arduino MEGA 2560.  I know, not what you want to hear, but these are some possibilites given the error messages.  The good news is your Arduino may still continue to operate fine if you're able to upload sketches...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on October 11, 2012, 04:50:27 PM
Is there anything you don't know regarding Arduino lol

Worked a treat, thanks

ps I assumed I didn't have to clear the EEprom first, upload ran with no errors.

Cheers
Steve
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 11, 2012, 04:52:49 PM
... I assumed I didn't have to clear the EEprom first, upload ran with no errors...

just when you switch versions
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 11, 2012, 06:07:00 PM
Taking a break from work with an update got my screen up and going works perfect just have to hook up temp probes but every thing so far is working out great :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: brett027 on October 12, 2012, 03:19:53 AM
Hopefully someone can help me. I have had my arduino mega for a a little while. I uploaded the jarduino file into the board and everything on the touch screen works and everything looks good. I just got done with 2 proto boards... The same 2 that Jamie used (drf0016) I checked to make sure all the solder connections are good and ohm checked all the pins to make sure none are shorted together. When I stack the LCD shield and touch screen to the mega, it works. When I stack the 2 proto boards in between the mega and the LCD shield, the normal screen comes up on the touchscreen but it is froze up. I try to touch it, and nothing happens. Any ideas? Brett
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: brett027 on October 12, 2012, 04:26:23 PM
Got it figured out. Pin 2 was soldered but not making connection between board and header. Reflowed solder joint, and works like a champ!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on October 12, 2012, 06:04:42 PM
Just joined here in part due to this wonderful Jarduino project, and donated. It is an incredible piece of work that I want to use, although I have no experience with arduinos or circuit building on proto boards.

I wanted to only use this controller to control a new DIY led setup going over my 120 gallon that will mimic what 2 new Radion Pros would look like. The led channels and touch screen slider ability here handily beats what Ecotech charges $949 for. The other features are so great though, that I would want to use them too.

I feel I am comfortable in getting the Jarduino booted, and I can hook it up to get my leds dimmed via PWM. When it comes to building circuits for the other features however, I am completely clueless, and have little idea how to build them on a proto board or otherwise in a clean manner.

With the amount of time, trial and error, and possible electrical dangers attempting it, I would rather pay someone to build the circuits for me if that is possible? PM me if you would like to help with this.  I will probably buy myself a test proto to learn on, but I do not want my inexperience affecting my reef.

I could just use the controller for the leds, but since it is capable of so much more, why not take advantage of it, right?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 12, 2012, 06:49:36 PM
Welcome aboard Vincent!  This is a UK site, but there's a lot of users on here that live in the States, myself included.  I'm sure someone will step up to bat.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on October 12, 2012, 07:11:50 PM
Welcome aboard Vincent!  This is a UK site, but there's a lot of users on here that live in the States, myself included.  I'm sure someone will step up to bat.

Thanks!

I'm very confident that I can copy the look and function of multiple Radions with your program over my 120 gallon. I will be using a 300w 24v or 36v PS and about 7-14 Meanwell LDD-1000H PWM drivers depending on the voltage I use.  I've seen them dim all the way down to 0% unlike the Meanwell ELN-60-48D drivers I've used in the past (they turn off under 10%). This will achieve a smooth full sunrise/sunset.

I've also done extensive work with leds, and will be using Cree XT-E Cool White, Neutral White, Warm White, Royal Blue, Luxeon Cool Blue, Cyan, Green, Red, Epistar Yellow, and Semileds Violet 420nm and 405nm near UV. They will be split into the following channels:

Sump (Green/Cyan)
Royal Blue
Cool Blue
Red/Yellow
White
Violet/UV
Moonlights

I've already ordered the 6x20" aluminum heatsinks, and am in the planning stages of the build. In the end, the goal is to rival multiple Ecotechs for 1/5th of the price. I wouldn't be able to get that "wow factor" without this project, so many thanks in helping me along with this. Led channel sliders is much cooler than a typical typhon lcd.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 13, 2012, 07:23:42 PM
If any of you use the Automatic Feeder function in Jarduino v1.2 Beta 2, I discovered an easily fixable error.  I made this error when I switched over all the RTC functions to a new library.  If you don't use the Automatic Feeder function, don't worry about this.  Anyway, on line 3683-3684 you see this:

  if ((FEEDTime1==1) && (feedFish1H==t.hour) && (feedFish1M==t.min)
     && (t.sec>=0 || t.sec<5))

Change it to this:

  if ((FEEDTime1==1) && (feedFish1H==t.hour) && (feedFish1M==t.min)
     && (t.sec>=0 && t.sec<5))

The only chanbge is the "or" symbol || to the "and" symbol &&.  What happens is for the whole minute the feeder will continue to feed, rather than just once as expected.  This change will fix that...

Also, you will need to do the same thing on lines 3703, 3722, and 3741.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 14, 2012, 05:08:41 PM
I will make the changes to the code and re-upload at work in the am.

I have a power supply that is 12V DC 250W Output 20.8A that should work right I am just thinking that's a lot of amps but should be OK I was also maybe thinking of later running 2 controller setups of this one supply. Anyone see any problems with this?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 14, 2012, 05:32:52 PM
Probably ok. Just don't exceed the ratings. Try to stay at least 10-15% or more below it.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 14, 2012, 10:46:10 PM
I plan on running at 11v on the arduino but couldn't find an amp
Rating for it
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 15, 2012, 12:14:08 AM
I plan on running at 11v on the arduino but couldn't find an amp
Rating for it

Here's all the info you need on the Arduino MEGA: http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMega2560 (http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMega2560)

Here's a snapshot I took for quick reference:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676824302331504/picture)

Here's some more info you may find useful: http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Learning/WhatAdapter (http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Learning/WhatAdapter)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 15, 2012, 02:55:06 PM
that is what I found from the site as well the arduino will only draw what it needs so it should be all right with 20 amps as long as it is at 12v or less that is why you can plug in a electric toothbrush to the same plug in you have your refrigerator on it only draws what it needs. guess i just need a little reassuring
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on October 15, 2012, 03:15:58 PM
It is really hard to find a ITDB02 mega shield with the RTC already built in. Does anyone know a good source for this? I can buy the RTC module separate, but it would be a cleaner build if I could get the shield with it pre-installed.

Once I get the jarduino up and running, I will start designing the fixture.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 15, 2012, 03:46:27 PM
that is what I found from the site as well the arduino will only draw what it needs so it should be all right with 20 amps as long as it is at 12v or less that is why you can plug in a electric toothbrush to the same plug in you have your refrigerator on it only draws what it needs. guess i just need a little reassuring

You should be more concerned with meeting the minimum rating, but with your ps it's obv not a problem   >:D
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 15, 2012, 03:56:49 PM
It is really hard to find a ITDB02 mega shield with the RTC already built in. Does anyone know a good source for this? I can buy the RTC module separate, but it would be a cleaner build if I could get the shield with it pre-installed.

Once I get the jarduino up and running, I will start designing the fixture.

best way I have seen is buying the kit and making it yourself or use a RTC unit and just hooking it up with 4 wires Jamie shows bothways in his manual or you could build it yourself. I went the way of buying a RTC chip premade and wiring it in thatway. using the 4 wires
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 15, 2012, 04:10:04 PM
It is really hard to find a ITDB02 mega shield with the RTC already built in. Does anyone know a good source for this? I can buy the RTC module separate, but it would be a cleaner build if I could get the shield with it pre-installed.

Once I get the jarduino up and running, I will start designing the fixture.

A quick googe search for the ITDB02 v1.1 with built in RTC returned the following sites that sell them (some are pre-assembled and some are a kit):
http://www.myduino.com/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=itdb02&product_id=185 (http://www.myduino.com/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=itdb02&product_id=185)     AVAILABILITY in 1 WEEK
http://imall.iteadstudio.com/prototyping/kits/im120717001.html (http://imall.iteadstudio.com/prototyping/kits/im120717001.html)     OUT OF STOCK
http://iteadstudio.net/Wholesale/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=40 (http://iteadstudio.net/Wholesale/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=40)     84 UNITS IN STOCK
http://www.itead-europe.com/index.php/prototyping/itdb02-arduino-mega-shield-v1-1-kit.html (http://www.itead-europe.com/index.php/prototyping/itdb02-arduino-mega-shield-v1-1-kit.html)     16 UNITS IN STOCK
http://www.lipoly.de/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=213707&language=en (http://www.lipoly.de/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=213707&language=en)     3 UNITS IN STOCK

I'm sure more places carry these...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on October 15, 2012, 04:28:01 PM
Myduino was the only one pre-built that I could find as well. I have so little free time that I didn't want to assemble a kit. I ordered that one, and I ordered an ebay shield with the separate RTC module just in case. Thanks!

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 15, 2012, 07:54:23 PM
I tried to order from Myduino after 4 weeks and a refund
I was told they couldn't ship out of the country I didn't be live them
I bet they couldn't find one prebuilt to send me
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on October 15, 2012, 11:23:15 PM
Hi all

I am progressing with my build, just waiting for my temp sensors to arrive.
One thing about the build  is niggling me though, I have laid out my own driver circuit using Recom drivers but I guess this may also apply to the Chesters shields.  If the 12v psu which powers the arduino fails I assume this will disable the timer for the LEDs as well as the PWM dimming feature, however as the 36v supply is still functioning the LEDs will go to max output.

This could lead to bleaching is not rectified quickly

Hope this make sense
Steve
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 15, 2012, 11:46:01 PM
If your Arduino or the power to it fails, then it would be the same thing as a LOW output. Therefore, lights out.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on October 16, 2012, 12:21:38 AM
Of course !  Thanks Jamie mind put to rest .
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on October 16, 2012, 01:18:29 AM
Most of the build is ordered. Controller w LCD, RTC, heatsinks, temp sensors, step down converters, resistors, led drivers, fans, 400w 48v power supply all taken care of. Now the waiting from China.

104 leds and some aluminum L channels to create a rail for the heatsinks will be the only thing left to order. The power supply, step downs, and possibly the led drivers will be placed in the middle of the fixture where open space will be. Should look pretty clean when finished.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on October 17, 2012, 04:40:30 PM
Ok  - so I've got one of my DS18B20+ connected up, ran the tester sketch in the Dallas temperature library and got an address back "28D6A70D04000009". 

I notice the temperature returned when the tester was running was always fixed at +85 degC.  Anyhow I pushed on and entered the address at the appropriate line, and uploaded the v1.1 sketch.  The problem I have is the hood temp (the line I entered the address for) is returning "Error" for the returned temperature.

I've got some new  DS18B20+ coming tommorrow to try in case the one I have is damaged, but was wondering if anyone has any other ideas to try in the mean time.

Cheers
Steve
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 17, 2012, 04:54:52 PM
85 is usually indicative of it not getting a reading. In the Jarduino, if it gets a really high or really low reading, then it will say error.

Could be a bad connection, or could be a bad sensor, or it could mean you have the wrong sensor.  DS18B20+PAR doesn't usually work, if you have the sensor with the +PAR, try getting ones without that extension.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on October 17, 2012, 05:18:53 PM
85 is usually indicative of it not getting a reading. In the Jarduino, if it gets a really high or really low reading, then it will say error.

Could be a bad connection, or could be a bad sensor, or it could mean you have the wrong sensor.  DS18B20+PAR doesn't usually work, if you have the sensor with the +PAR, try getting ones without that extension.

Thanks for the reply.  The part I have is http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/temperature-humidity-sensors/5402805/?searchTerm=540-2805

I guess I could have damaged it when trying to run it in parasitc mode although I can still get an address back from it.

All the connections look good

Will try a new one tomorrow
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 17, 2012, 05:41:32 PM
What resistor are you using? I suppose a bad or wrong valued resistor could also be at fault...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on October 17, 2012, 07:43:57 PM
4k7 from memory, I've left the shield at work, so won't be able to check until tomorrow now.
Will have some spare DS18b20's by then so can also try a new one
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: isacco on October 17, 2012, 09:05:23 PM
Hello, I´m new to the forum, just ordered all the things for Jarduino. Just want to say to you guys  :You_Rock_Emoticon:

Ok  - so I've got one of my DS18B20+ connected up, ran the tester sketch in the Dallas temperature library and got an address back "28D6A70D04000009". 

I notice the temperature returned when the tester was running was always fixed at +85 degC.  Anyhow I pushed on and entered the address at the appropriate line, and uploaded the v1.1 sketch.  The problem I have is the hood temp (the line I entered the address for) is returning "Error" for the returned temperature.

I've got some new  DS18B20+ coming tommorrow to try in case the one I have is damaged, but was wondering if anyone has any other ideas to try in the mean time.

Cheers
Steve

I have a Krusduino built and some times when first power it up get the same 85C reading. Try reset button.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 17, 2012, 09:34:11 PM
Hi Paul!  :welcome:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 17, 2012, 09:48:09 PM
4k7 from memory, I've left the shield at work, so won't be able to check until tomorrow now.
Will have some spare DS18b20's by then so can also try a new one

Yes, that's what it should be 4.7 kΩ.  Some people I know mistakenly used a 47 kΩ, and got similar results as you until switching to the correct one.  You may want to test it with a multimeter to make sure.  Make sure you are only using 1 resistor, no matter how many of these temp sensors you use.  Using more than one resistor on a single wire in parallel will change the effective resistance in this way:

(https://graph.facebook.com/676825508998050/picture)

So two resistors in parallel would drop it to 2.35 kΩ, 3 to 1.57 kΩ, etc.  Not good.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on October 17, 2012, 10:10:14 PM
Thanks for all the help - I will check the values and if correct will try a new device and report back tomorrow

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on October 18, 2012, 10:13:42 AM
Fixed it !  Looked at it again with a clear mind (work keeps getting in the way lol) and spotted a wiring error on my part, I'd got the supply coming of the wrong side of the pull up resistor.  Anyhow it's all working fine now so thanks for all the help

Cheers
Steve
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: phild3791 on October 19, 2012, 05:37:24 AM
hello, just joined and trying to finishing the Jarduino build.

I bought a ITDB02 v1.1 shield. The documentation doesn't have an assembly diagram. I just need to know which resistor goes where. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Phil
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 19, 2012, 05:44:12 AM
I haven’t seen any instructions either, but I just took a picture of one of mine so you can just see what goes where.  Hope this helps:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676825542331380/picture)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: phild3791 on October 19, 2012, 04:08:51 PM
Thanks TheDOdblG. I should be able to complete it based off of the photo. I had another question regarding the Crystal Oscillator. Is there a polarity to the part? there is a 3rd solder pad in the silk screen area, do I solder the case to the pad?

Thanks for your help.

 :You_Rock_Emoticon: I would also like to thank you for putting the Jarduino together and helping us with implementation. :bravo_2:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 19, 2012, 04:13:56 PM
Doesn't matter which way, just put it in there, and you can solder it to that pad, but isn't necessary
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 19, 2012, 05:30:45 PM
I think I might of bought wrong temp probes
There is only two wires coming out of the cable
Can some tell me if I can use them I can't return
Them so hope I can http://www.ebay.com item 251143583522
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 19, 2012, 06:16:00 PM
I think I might of bought wrong temp probes
There is only two wires coming out of the cable
Can some tell me if I can use them I can't return
Them so hope I can http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=251143583522

I'm guessing the two wires mean the probes you purchased are "designed" to run in "Parasite" power mode.  I haven't tested to see if it works in this mode, but I don't see why they shouldn't. Won't hurt one bit to try.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 19, 2012, 06:59:19 PM
Any advice on hooking it up white wire is ground and the red looks
Like it goes to 5v and to a data pin I don't want to short out the arduino
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 19, 2012, 08:58:01 PM
Any advice on hooking it up white wire is ground and the red looks
Like it goes to 5v and to a data pin I don't want to short out the arduino

No problem.  After reading your question, and since I already have three sensors as I described in my User Manual hooked up on my breadboard for testing, I figured why not go ahead and test/verify if Parasite Power Mode works with the Jarduino. This was easy enough, I simply pulled out the third leg of the DS18B20 sensor that gets hooked up to Arduno "5V", and as expected it continues to work without issue. So basically, all you need to do is wire it up the same as I describe in the USER MANUAL, with the following change(s) as pictured below:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676827028997898/picture)

I'm going to assume that the Red IS NOT 5V, but rather a data pin that also doubles over for recieving the power.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 19, 2012, 09:45:46 PM
Thank you for clearing that up for me on the bottom of that ebay link has what the wires go to

•Power supply: 3.3V to 5.5V
 
•Wire:
    Red – DQ
    White – GND

Your picture make it a lot easier to wire up :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: brett027 on October 20, 2012, 01:16:21 AM
Still building my controller, and it is really starting to take shape. Thank you tons Jamie for this awesome program and controller build!! I can't wait for the next version to come out!!! Brett
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 21, 2012, 07:58:57 PM
I got some work done this morning and got a start on the control box hope to be almost done with it buy the end of the week (fingers crossed) here are pics of the box and some of the stuff all ready in it I am placing stuff in it to see how it all fits nothing is perm in its current location.

http://s1069.beta.photobucket.com/user/rottison/library/controller%20box%20for%20arduino
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on October 21, 2012, 08:02:25 PM
Nice One Dale Keep The Pictures Coming Dude :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: phild3791 on October 22, 2012, 05:34:01 AM
hello,
I made some progress on the build this weekend. I made a board for temp sensors and hooked them up. I need to get a proto shield and clean up all the peripherals. I assembled V1.1 shield with RTC. Everything went well, clock works and the Jarduino recognized the temp sensors. All and all a productive weekend.

Building power supply next. I found and old 48v transformer as a base and it should work well.

one question; I hooked up an Led driver directly to the controller and noticed that the light control is inverted. When the lights are at 100% they are off and at 0% they are full bright. Is there a way to change this is the sketch? I assume Jamie is controlling his drivers by using a transistor to turn off a 10v supply to the PWM driver circuit.

As always,
Phil
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 22, 2012, 06:49:45 AM
Good work Phil! For the inversion problem, in line 143 of Jarduino 1.2 beta2 change RECOM_RCD = true to false.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 23, 2012, 05:51:18 PM
Hi all
I tried to hook up the 2 proto boards last night with the screen on top and it didnt work first thing I did was test continuity on both boards looking for a bad solder joint after cheacking twice on both boards ever thing cheaks out ok I tested for 5v and ground worked fine

any other ideas I can do to find the bad spot and on what board??
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 23, 2012, 06:39:50 PM
Hi all
I tried to hook up the 2 proto boards last night with the screen on top and it didnt work first thing I did was test continuity on both boards looking for a bad solder joint after cheacking twice on both boards ever thing cheaks out ok I tested for 5v and ground worked fine

any other ideas I can do to find the bad spot and on what board??

Sounds like the same problem Brett was having:  http://ukreefs.com/index.php?topic=117.msg6362#msg6362 (http://ukreefs.com/index.php?topic=117.msg6362#msg6362)  it's one of your connections, the problem is narrowing it down.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: phild3791 on October 23, 2012, 07:22:25 PM
Good work Phil! For the inversion problem, in line 143 of Jarduino 1.2 beta2 change RECOM_RCD = true to false.

thank Jamie,
I went to load the updated sketch and ran into a problem. I keep getting the following timeout error:

avrdude: stk500v2_command(): failed miserably to execute command 0x11

There are a lot of other codes thrown, but this one made me laugh.

I have tried uploading without the shields and still no luck. I then tried to upload the blink sketch and nothing. Has anyone else had this problem?

I'm worried that when I hooked up the leds and temp probes that I some how damaged the usb/serial interface.

Thanks,
Phil
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 23, 2012, 07:50:02 PM
@ Phil: try uploading using a different USB port. Don't forget to change the COM number in the Arduino IDE when you change ports

And I agree, funny error message :s_laugh:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 23, 2012, 09:15:54 PM
I found the problem I didn't have 3.3 pin soldered correctly on proto 2 looked like it was but under a magnify lens I could see it...must be getting old
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: deonfletc on October 24, 2012, 10:07:53 PM
 ^-^
im new on this forum, i have been advised to come on here from another forum, as i was wondering if someone be able to help me out with my PROTO2 board as i keep messing it up, so will someone be aable to build it for me  i will pay for the parts that is needed, p&p and the for the time that it takes, thanks 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 24, 2012, 10:11:33 PM
 :welcome: Deon!  Glad to have you aboard.  Where are you located?  I think it's always preferable to have someone local help if at all possible.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: deonfletc on October 24, 2012, 10:39:44 PM
 :c017: im located in lancashire uk, if no-one in the uk can do it will you be able to do it please
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 24, 2012, 11:07:37 PM
:c017: im located in lancashire uk, if no-one in the uk can do it will you be able to do it please

It may be possible, but I'm going on a two week vacation starting Friday.  I won a cruise through the Carribean in a poker tournament a while back! I'm confident the Jarduino will take care of my tank while I'm gone.  Just wish I had more of the automation finished...  Anyway, If you want me to do it, don't expect it done any time soon.  That's why I suggest if you can find someone local, it would be better.  I'm in the US by the way, so they might kill you in shipping too (both time & cost).  But if time and money are no object, and if you can't find someone in the UK who's willing, send me a PM and we might be able to work something out.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: deonfletc on October 24, 2012, 11:16:44 PM
 :c017: i hope you have a good vacation and if no one is willing to help me in the UK i will pm after your two weeks if that OK to help
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Illinoisplumber on October 25, 2012, 03:46:11 AM
Jamie, 1.2 is working fine with the graph16 library. I don't know why it would work with 1.1 Now I am having an issue with setting the time and date. I have looked at my RTC circuit and everything "looks" ok. The only thing I can think of is that maybe I got the IC too hot or something when soldering it to the board. Do you know how to test the chip?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 25, 2012, 05:21:48 AM
Jamie, 1.2 is working fine with the graph16 library. I don't know why it would work with 1.1 Now I am having an issue with setting the time and date. I have looked at my RTC circuit and everything "looks" ok. The only thing I can think of is that maybe I got the IC too hot or something when soldering it to the board. Do you know how to test the chip?

First off, a very warm welcome to you!  I'm glad you got 1.2 working.  Very strange that 1.1 didn't.  Anyway, it unfortunately seems common that people are experiencing issues hooking up a DS1307 module.  More times than not, the problem lies with a faulty module.  When you ask "how to test the chip," I assume you mean the DS1307 chip.  There are a number of example sketches that will write data to it and return the freshly written data.  If those sketches work, then I would assume that your RTC circuit is fine.  So, where are these sketches?  Look in the "DS1307" folder. 

...arduino-1.0.1\libraries\DS1307\examples

Don't try to use the "DS1307_LCD" example sketch.  Any of the others would be fine.  You will need to make one change prior to uploading, as these example sketches were originally written for the smaller Arduino UNO & Duemilanove.  Look for this line:

DS1307 rtc(4, 5);

and change it to this:

DS1307 rtc(20, 21);

Upload it to your board with your RTC attached, then click on "Serial Monitor."

I'm assuming of course you know how to hook up the circuit.  If not, refer to the Jarduino User Manual.  For further troubleshooting tips, refer to this thread starting on page 20 up to this one.  There are a number of posts peppered throughout dealing with issues in regards to the DS1307...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Illinoisplumber on October 25, 2012, 06:19:01 AM
Ok, Thanks, I have already been trying to test with the example sketches but did not realize that they were made for the smaller boards and that I needed to change the pins.... Lemme go check it out and I'll let you know what I find...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Illinoisplumber on October 25, 2012, 06:27:35 AM
Well, bummer deal... Looks like I have either a bad IC or crystal.... Looks like I will have to wait for a couple of new ones to get here.... :-[  Guess I will just have to work on my lights for the next few days....
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 25, 2012, 06:37:29 AM
Well, bummer deal... Looks like I have either a bad IC or crystal.... Looks like I will have to wait for a couple of new ones to get here.... :-[  Guess I will just have to work on my lights for the next few days....

Yeah, so dissapointing to run into these little roadblocks.  If interested, this is where I got my RTC: http://www.ebay.com/itm/200763022338?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/200763022338?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)  You may be able to find them slightly cheaper elsewhere, but at least they sell ones that work.  Well, at least the one they sold to me works. 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Illinoisplumber on October 25, 2012, 07:01:32 AM
Actually, I think I am going to try and find just the IC somewhere here in the states... I don't really want to have to wait 3 weeks or more for one to get here from China... It has to be the IC, The resistors are testing fine and as you stated in a previous post, the crystal would not effect the ability to save the time.
Thanks for all of your help... :You_Rock_Emoticon:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 26, 2012, 02:16:50 AM
Is there some thing I have to do to make the screen saver work? I went
To general settings to screen savers turned it on went to settings picked clock and date then
Selected 2 minutes for wait time then
Save then save again then cancel to get back to start screen after the 2 min wait no screen saver
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 26, 2012, 02:39:41 AM
Try clearing the EEPROM
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 26, 2012, 02:48:15 AM
I will try that in the morning
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on October 26, 2012, 12:01:38 PM
Hey Jamie

I would like to run something by you to see if it is feasible.

On my build I currently have 4 channels (White, Blue, Royal Blue and UV), the way I would like to run the Jarduino for sunset is to gradually dim the 4 channels from their max intensity down towards zero (straight forward).  However when the Royals approach zero I would like them to become the moonlight source and run on the moonlight settings to a max defined intensity.

The reason for this is space is limited and I don’t have room for a separate moon light LED’s and drivers.

Do you think it would be possible or can you see errors in my logic?

Cheers
Steve
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on October 26, 2012, 06:13:05 PM
@SteveT: The reason why I chose to dedicate a channel to the Lunar lights is this: The daylights run on a sunrise/sunset cycle.  During the sunrise, the LEDs typically go from completely dark to whatever values the user inputs and continues on this throughout the day until sunset, at which point the LEDs eventually dim to complete darkness.  During certain moon phases, especially during full moons, I did not want it to be noticeable when the Moon lights came on.  This would especially be noticeable at these "sunrises" and "sunsets."  Imagine at sunset, for example.  The regular lights go completely dark, then all of a sudden the moon lights kick in.  Having the Lunars on all the time eliminates the possibility of this jump in illumination.  The same is also true for the sunrise.  My lunar phase does not calculate the moonrises and moonsets, so the lunar cycle isn't exactly true, but IMO it's close enough.  Also, having only a few LEDs for your lunar lights is better IMO at replicating the point source of light that the moon is at night. 

Now if you're completely set on doubling over the utilization of your RB's to be both day and moon, then I'm sure that it can be done with some additional coding.  You can even program it such that once the sunrise/sunset values reach the current lunar cycle values that they stay at that level for the day (rather night into the morning), which would therefore eliminate these spikes in illumination.  Have fun with the coding, and let me know how it works out for you.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on October 27, 2012, 12:00:30 PM
You can even program it such that once the sunrise/sunset values reach the current lunar cycle values that they stay at that level for the day (rather night into the morning), which would therefore eliminate these spikes in illumination.

Thanks for the reply Jamie, this is pretty much what I was thinking.

Also your reasons for including separate moonlights makes perfect sense, just a little difficult for me to implement.

I'm a noob when it comes to coding but I'll take a look and see if I can figure it out

Cheers
Steve
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: phild3791 on October 27, 2012, 03:27:32 PM
@ Phil: try uploading using a different USB port. Don't forget to change the COM number in the Arduino IDE when you change ports

And I agree, funny error message :s_laugh:

I think i found a work around. :D

playing with the IDE didn't work. crosschecked with uno and worked fine.

I ended up jumping the first two pins on the 6 pin header closest to the USB port. this caused the uSB/Serial chip to reset. I was then able to load the blink sketch and a few others. I didn't have to reset to load the other programs. Once I reloaded the the Jarduino code, the problem returned.

I am using the Sainsmart board, maybe that is the issue. I didn't experience this phenomenon until after I had added the temp sensor ID's.

Just thought I would add this in case anyone is experiencing the same thing.

I just picked up some rectifiers and will be working on my power supply next.

Question: power for the Arduino; volts? and what size is the power input jack? it looks like maybe 2.2mm

As Always,
Phil
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: mrblah on October 28, 2012, 02:09:48 PM
Has anyone gotten an RTC like tinyrtc to work with the jarduino libraries?

My rtc works fine with all other libraries, I can set the clock, it works on my other DIY reef controllers, but with the library jarduino uses, my rtc does not work

when I use the sample easy serial this is what it displays, always the same. 

xxxxxxxxx 85.85.2165 -- 27:85:85

This is the rtc I use for all my projects,  the problem is definitely the library and something it does or does not do that other libraries are

I have a feeling it's related to pullup resistors

(http://www.uctronics.com/static/images/20120928/arduino-tiny-rtc-i2c-module-integrated-24c32-memory-ds1307-clock-857b07ea-800x800.jpg)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 29, 2012, 12:37:56 PM
HI mrblah
If you go back over some of the last few pages I believe there was a discussion about when the date has the 85 and 65 in them that there is something wrong with the tiny RTC or the soldering. Either way I had a similar problem mine was fixed after I bought a new battery for it. I use the same one in Jamie's post a few back where he bought his from eBay same kind diffrent place. I would try a diffrent rtc before I worried about changing any kinda code in the sketch. I hope you figure it out soon I know little things like this can drive you crazy

Dale
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: mrblah on October 29, 2012, 11:34:49 PM
I have about 10 of these from different sources, none work,  but they all work fine with my other reef controllers

and they also work fine with any other rtc library
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 30, 2012, 03:29:35 PM
I have the tinyRTC V1 and it works great other than a weak battery I changed out. all is working perfect.

This is the one I have and it works for 3 days in a row now.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/280942873096?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on October 31, 2012, 02:00:01 AM
I am using 3 2 wire temp probes they are parasit mode
And each one is 45 foot long if I hook one up the test sketch finds it also
Finds 2 hooked together but won't find any if all 3
Are hooked together I was thinking maybe the cable is to long
For the 5V if anyone knows a max cable length that
Would be helpful
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: mrblah on November 01, 2012, 12:21:29 AM
I am using 3 2 wire temp probes they are parasit mode
And each one is 45 foot long if I hook one up the test sketch finds it also
Finds 2 hooked together but won't find any if all 3
Are hooked together I was thinking maybe the cable is to long
For the 5V if anyone knows a max cable length that
Would be helpful

mine look the same, but they do not work with the library jaurduino uses,  my test setup is an Uno with a brand new tinyrtc.   With other libraries I can read and set the time just fine,  but with the rtclib jarduino needs, I cannot read the time, easyrtc always displays xxxxxxxxx 00.00.2000 -- 00:00:85

I can change my library to the one I use for my other controllers, and the time is displayed and set properly

I used the tutorial here, with the library they use, and it works great, unfortunately jarduino does not work with that library

http://www.ladyada.net/learn/breakoutplus/ds1307rtc.html
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Daka on November 01, 2012, 04:48:25 AM
Hey Guys,

I am trying to get my Tiny RTC to work. I can't find a sketch to make it work. The Battery is good. I have it hooked up to my mega per Jamie's notes. I tried using Mrblah's sketch, but it compiled lots of errors. Anyone have a known working sketch. I am wiring up proto bds now. Just wanted to test RTC
Thanks
Daks
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 01, 2012, 02:09:24 PM
I have used the sketch from jarduino and it has worked perfect for me. I am building 3 of these for each of my tanks(3x 180 gal) I don't know why it doesn't work for you but it has for many ppl doing this same build. mrblah are you using the newest version of the jarduino or version 1? What other controller sketch's are you using? could you post a link or pm me a link to what you are using and I will load it up on the one I have been using for jarduino and see it it works.


Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Daka on November 01, 2012, 02:22:48 PM
dale,

I am just looking for a sketch to test the RTC. I had it hooked up using J1.2, but did not have the temps hooked up.

Do u have a known  good Sketch I can load and see if the RTC is working. Anybody have a test sketch.
 Thanks
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 01, 2012, 04:36:48 PM
Daka I am using 1.2beta2 and it worked great. First thing I use the Eeprom clear to make sure the sketch is clear and remember to change the 512 to 4096 in line 5. (if using the mega) then upload the the sketch I didn't use any rtc sketch buy itself. I did have to push the battery down tight when I put the new one in but the sketch worked fine first time out. I don't know if Jamie is still around or not I know he is going on vacation Friday. for a test sketch the seller of the rtc might have one or go to www.arduino.cc there are a few in the library there.

hope this helps
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 01, 2012, 06:19:17 PM
Has anyone gotten an RTC like tinyrtc to work with the jarduino libraries?

My rtc works fine with all other libraries, I can set the clock, it works on my other DIY reef controllers, but with the library jarduino uses, my rtc does not work

when I use the sample easy serial this is what it displays, always the same. 

xxxxxxxxx 85.85.2165 -- 27:85:85

This is the rtc I use for all my projects,  the problem is definitely the library and something it does or does not do that other libraries are

I have a feeling it's related to pullup resistors

(http://www.uctronics.com/static/images/20120928/arduino-tiny-rtc-i2c-module-integrated-24c32-memory-ds1307-clock-857b07ea-800x800.jpg)




I just cleared the Eeprom on my working jarduino and re-uploaded the sketch and had that error. I went in to settings and changed the clock time and month it went away and showed the correct time and date what it looks like is almost an out of bounds error have you tried uploading Jamie's sketch and changing the time on the touch screen? it fixed it for me
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: isacco on November 01, 2012, 08:59:20 PM
Waiting for parts to arrive and just reviewing everything. I just realized the protoboard I order miss a 40 pin connector in order to stack them. I guess I can add the connector, or do I have to buy another protoboard?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130789849361?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 01, 2012, 09:23:32 PM
I did the same thing and just got 2 new ones to match the build. if you can solder on a 40 pin header and the pins on each side need to be changed on the second board to match up also make sure there in the right order for the ITDB02 board wich is opposite of the touch screen
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: isacco on November 01, 2012, 09:57:45 PM
Thanks dale, just order 2 new DFRobot protoshield.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 02, 2012, 04:47:53 AM
Hey everyone, still on vacation having a blast. I'm several shades darker and several pounds heavier lol. Anyway, In regards to the Jarduino and issues with the RTC, make sure you have the latest DS1307 library from my download page, and make sure there are no other DS1307 folders in the library, or it will confuse the IDE when the Jarduino calls for functions with the same name..in fact, it may be best to only have the libraries in the library folder that I included.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 02, 2012, 03:27:32 PM
i have got my temp probs working rtc working have all the pwm wires soldered on along with wires to go to the auto feeder now I have to change a little code for the feeder. just waiting on some boards to come in mail and I will be all set going to work on proto boards a Little more today have to install BC549c for feeder and a few more bits and bobs
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: mrblah on November 02, 2012, 08:39:06 PM
dale,

I am just looking for a sketch to test the RTC. I had it hooked up using J1.2, but did not have the temps hooked up.

Do u have a known  good Sketch I can load and see if the RTC is working. Anybody have a test sketch.
 Thanks

newest, and I posted a link to what I'm using in test, and that link works with my other controllers, they all use wire.h

my other controllers were wrote by myself
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: mrblah on November 02, 2012, 09:06:49 PM
Hey everyone, still on vacation having a blast. I'm several shades darker and several pounds heavier lol. Anyway, In regards to the Jarduino and issues with the RTC, make sure you have the latest DS1307 library from my download page, and make sure there are no other DS1307 folders in the library, or it will confuse the IDE when the Jarduino calls for functions with the same name..in fact, it may be best to only have the libraries in the library folder that I included.

from what page?  I tried the library in each of the rar files on google code, no luck with any of them

I delete all files from my library folder before I start,  my other controllers have conflicting libraries
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: mrblah on November 02, 2012, 09:19:05 PM
I just looked at the rtc under a magnifying glass, the chip is a ds13072  maybe that's why it does not work?  all of mine have that chip
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 02, 2012, 09:51:27 PM
This is where I get the majority of the Libraries, including the DS1307: http://henningkarlsen.com/electronics/library.php (http://henningkarlsen.com/electronics/library.php)

*Keep in mind that I modified some of them, so using them direct from here may render some features of the Jarduino useless.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: mrblah on November 03, 2012, 12:56:38 PM
This is where I get the majority of the Libraries, including the DS1307: http://henningkarlsen.com/electronics/library.php (http://henningkarlsen.com/electronics/library.php)

*Keep in mind that I modified some of them, so using them direct from here may render some features of the Jarduino useless.

I'm trying to use his easy test code, with the library on that site, it did not work,  I also used the ones from the jarduino rar's and none of those work either

all of the wire.h libraries & test code from other sources work fine, they all use wire.h instead of directly talking to the chip
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 03, 2012, 02:46:38 PM
I took a look at my rtc under the magnifier here at work and I have chip DS13072N and the crystal is 32076 I don't know if that will help you any

I tried the rtc easy and rtc hard from  http://henningkarlsen.com/electronics/library.php and both worked fine, all I had to do was change the pin numbers to 20 and 21 that is where my rtc hooks up top the arduino. uploaded and clicked on serial view and it took off running took about 3 seconds the other link from http://www.ladyada.net/learn/breakoutplus/ds1307rtc.html this one did nothing but error many many errors.


 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: mrblah on November 03, 2012, 08:10:17 PM
I took a look at my rtc under the magnifier here at work and I have chip DS13072N and the crystal is 32076 I don't know if that will help you any

I tried the rtc easy and rtc hard from  http://henningkarlsen.com/electronics/library.php and both worked fine, all I had to do was change the pin numbers to 20 and 21 that is where my rtc hooks up top the arduino. uploaded and clicked on serial view and it took off running took about 3 seconds the other link from http://www.ladyada.net/learn/breakoutplus/ds1307rtc.html this one did nothing but error many many errors.

odd that we have the oposite results, that ladyada library is well known and referenced all over.   I have ordered another rtc that's supposed to have a plain old ds1307
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Fernando Garcia on November 04, 2012, 03:06:55 PM
Hello Jamie!

Saw the last message from Henning?

http://www.henningkarlsen.com/electronics/index.php

Best regards.
Fernando Garcia
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: deonfletc on November 05, 2012, 12:56:19 AM
 ^-^
this mite be a silly question it about wiring the pwm fans as my fans have four wires which are    
  Wire color
1   GND   Black
2   12V   Yellow
3   Sense (tach.)   Green
4   Control (PWM)   Blue
how would i wire them up to the broad as i cant get them to work
could some one please tell me what wire goes where 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 05, 2012, 02:43:22 AM
12 v goes to 12v positive
Gnd goes to 12v ground on psu and arduino ground
You don't need the tach wire
The pwm goes to pwm

I belive this the correct way to hook up your fans
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: deonfletc on November 05, 2012, 10:42:50 AM
 :c017:
so what wires would i put in the 4 pin connecter on the proto board 2 and what wires will go to the psu
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 05, 2012, 02:13:38 PM
I assume you are talking about the one with the white arrow pointing to it? are you making every thing just like Jamie's ? mine is a little diffrent so I will try to help out. there should be 12v+ and12vGND going to that plug and 2 wires one from pin 44 and one from pin 47 also have you made the circuit in the red square box for fan off and on? maybe you can take a pic of your boards or explain how you have it set up, have you used a meter to test your set up to make sure it is getting 12v + and - that is a good starting point.

Your queston about how to wire them up is total up to you. How do you have your power run and how did you connect the pins 44 and 47  to the molex just hook the fan in to the same pins your wires go to. also you might need to hook up the fan ground(the black wire) to psu ground and arduino ground to make them spin up. I hope this helps you out there are many ppl here that have helped me out more on this build then I think on any other board so ask for help some one will help you out I am sure.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: deonfletc on November 05, 2012, 03:27:18 PM
my board wire the same Jamie i would just like to know what colors wire should gone in the molex connecter and what pins on one the male end and   which one goes to the psu i know 3 of them go in the molex connecter but i don't know which way and the colors and i would like to thank you for your happy dale. This is the last thing i have to do this build aswell after about 4 gone at broad 2
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 05, 2012, 06:17:00 PM
you will need molex connector with 4 pins pin one will have +12v pin 2 will have ground both from psu
yellow and black from fan will get connected to them
the tach wire from fan (green) is not used
the blue wire (control) goes to pin 47 for jarduino to control (speed up or slow down) it is totally up to you how what pins are connected to what you can put12v+ on what ever pin you want it to be on. Just make sure you hook the fans the same way as your pins are. you don't have to have the pins exactly the same as Jamies you can put them in any order you want.
The circuit in the red box is made to shut fan off it is on pin 44 there are 3 parts to it look on the pic for proto 2 you will see all 3 parts in the red box. If you look close on the bottom view you will see where the are all soldered together kinda like a daisy chain so when pin 44 is activated it will break the ground and completely stop power to the fan. I hope this makes sense and I explained it right if not someone else will correct my mistake

also don't forget you might need to ground the fans to the arduino board or a proto to make the fans work. grounding to the arduino or a proto board is the same thing.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: deonfletc on November 06, 2012, 12:30:10 AM
 :c017: dale for your help
i found this on a other forum that mite help Jamies  out with his updates
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKuL14L4AOE&feature=youtu.be (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKuL14L4AOE&feature=youtu.be)

i dont know if i can post the link to the other forum so i leave it off intill told other wise
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Illinoisplumber on November 06, 2012, 10:16:27 AM
I am having the same problem as Mrblah with the rtc. First i thought that it was a faulty chip. 4 chips later on the itdb02 shield v1.1 and one tinyrtc board later i'm still having the same issue.  :41: This is getting very frustrating.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on November 06, 2012, 11:32:40 AM
that looks nice icons dude on the screen are you sharing the code ?

:)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: mrblah on November 07, 2012, 12:16:52 AM
I am having the same problem as Mrblah with the rtc. First i thought that it was a faulty chip. 4 chips later on the itdb02 shield v1.1 and one tinyrtc board later i'm still having the same issue.  :41: This is getting very frustrating.

ouch that's not good, I tried on my windows machine, thought maybe it was a mac vs windows thing, no luck on windows either
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Illinoisplumber on November 07, 2012, 01:38:34 AM
Yeah, I don't know if they changed something on the chip that makes it incompatible with henning karlson's library or what, but it is driving me batty... lol The chip on my TinyRTC v1 is a DS1307Z, the Z just means that it is a smd chip. I am not a coder by any means, but it is looking like I am going to have to start learning... :) Have you tried using the earlier version of Jarduino that used the other RTC library? I cannot get that version working with my screen so I don't know if it works or not....
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Illinoisplumber on November 07, 2012, 04:42:31 AM
that looks nice icons dude on the screen are you sharing the code ?

:)

Apparently the author has not released the code yet and it is not functional, just eye candy at this point.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 07, 2012, 06:05:45 AM
Can all you guys with the rtc issues try out different DS1307 libraries and see which ones work for you and post links.  Once I get enough data from you, I'll do the heavy lifting and incorporate the most reliable one into the Jarduino. 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on November 07, 2012, 09:59:18 AM
that looks nice icons dude on the screen are you sharing the code ?

:)

Apparently the author has not released the code yet and it is not functional, just eye candy at this point.

Thanks Thats a big Tease lol
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 07, 2012, 02:36:42 PM
 think once I get the Jarduino's functionality to where I want it, I'll make it more pretty like that. Icons and pictures use up a lot of space, so the use of an SD card is required. I want to see how far I can take it before requiring the need for additional memory... I'm thinking maybe make it so adding an SD card will enable the fluff, but not be a requirement for functionality. Thoughts?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 07, 2012, 03:06:41 PM
I say bring on the fluff I don't really care if it takes 1.2 seconds to see my pH or what ever else. How long did it take to test pH the old way? so if adding all the fluff on a SD card which I have a bunch of is going to take an extra 0.9 sec to load I don't care

So my vote is to add the fluff and also exterior storage can be a place to hold webpage or screen or internet templates or anything else needed to make this a the best sketch out there. I did read some of the post where the pics are from I did like the idea of diffrent alarms and having the user be able to label them and have timers for notes to pop up saying don't for get water changes or it is time to dose or what ever you want the timers to be for

just my 2 cents
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Daka on November 07, 2012, 05:30:08 PM
I would love to have more functions ,like ATO ,Water change and probes. The fluffy stuff can be added later. Make this a full bell and whistle full function powerhouse.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 07, 2012, 08:39:56 PM
Daka I totally agree with functions ,like ATO ,Water change and probes that would be more useful than the fluff. that goes with out saying

I was just playing around with one of my other controllers and had the exact same problem that mrblah and Illinoisplumber had, with mine it was do to not having the rtc connected to the arduino board soon as I hooked it up the problem was fixed and is keeping correct time I don't know if this helps anyone.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: mrblah on November 07, 2012, 09:57:28 PM
Can all you guys with the rtc issues try out different DS1307 libraries and see which ones work for you and post links.  Once I get enough data from you, I'll do the heavy lifting and incorporate the most reliable one into the Jarduino.

I just bought this from adafruit and it does not work with the libraries jarduino uses

http://adafruit.com/products/264

works fine with code/tutorial here
http://bildr.org/2011/03/ds1307-arduino/
and this one
http://www.ladyada.net/learn/breakoutplus/ds1307rtc.html

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: isacco on November 07, 2012, 11:07:28 PM
I would love to have more functions ,like ATO ,Water change and probes. The fluffy stuff can be added later. Make this a full bell and whistle full function powerhouse.

+1

pH (aquarium & reactor) it´s a must have, I´m not so much in theme and pictures
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on November 08, 2012, 08:15:31 PM
Personally, I prefer a minimalistic approach compared to themes and icons. I like the look better.

My vote is for more features like storm/cloud modes, since I'm only using it for my light fixture :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 12, 2012, 02:39:39 AM
I am having the same problem as Mrblah with the rtc. First i thought that it was a faulty chip. 4 chips later on the itdb02 shield v1.1 and one tinyrtc board later i'm still having the same issue.  :41: This is getting very frustrating.

So, were you able to get your RTC working using any of the libraries that Mr. Blah pointed out?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 12, 2012, 03:18:03 AM
I just ran Henning's DS1307 example sketch "DS1307_Serial_Easy" and here is what the Serial Monitor kicked back (I had my clock set previouslyto some random date and time):

SUN, 03.10.2010 -- 12:00:38
SUN, 03.10.2010 -- 12:00:39
SUN, 03.10.2010 -- 12:00:40
SUN, 03.10.2010 -- 12:00:41


So on and so forth.  While the Serial Monitor was continuing to run, I then pulled the power to the DS1307 circuit.  This is what I saw:

xxxxxxxxx 85.85.2165 -- 27:85:85
xxxxxxxxx 85.85.2165 -- 27:85:85
xxxxxxxxx 85.85.2165 -- 27:85:85
xxxxxxxxx 85.85.2165 -- 27:85:85


Finally, I then reconnected the power (with the Serial Monitor still running), and this is what was being printed out:

MON, 01.01.2000 -- 00:00:00
MON, 01.01.2000 -- 00:00:00
MON, 01.01.2000 -- 00:00:00
MON, 01.01.2000 -- 00:00:00


These results are expected.  I obtain similar results no matter which RTC circuit I use (My homemade circuit, the ITDB02 v1.1 Mega Shied, TinyRTC V1).  Hennings library works with everything I try.  I looked at the numbers on the different chips, in case anyone's interested.

On my homemade circuit, the chip says:
     DS1307
     1003A6
     538AE
     +

On my ITDB02 Mega Shield v1.1, the chip says:
     DS1307Z
     +1106A4
     152AA
     
On my TinyRTC V1, the chip says:
     DS1307ZN
     +1217A1
     001


I'm willing to test anyone's RTC if they feel there's a problem with it.  PM me and I'll give you my address so you can ship it to me (just make sure you include an evelope with return shipping so I can send it back to you).  I think Henning's library is very good, and I haven't had any issues with it whatsoever.  My Jarduino's been running a year now virtually non-stop, and the clock keeps ticking away... 


FYI, in Henning's DS1307 example sketches make sure you change the pins for SDA and SCL.  Specifically this line:

// Init the DS1307
DS1307 rtc(4, 5);

to this:

DS1307 rtc(20, 21);

And make sure you have the SDA and SCL pins from your RTC circuit connected to the correct pins on the Arduino (and the respective 5V and GND).
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 12, 2012, 12:49:48 PM
Nice one fella and hats off to you for all the hard work matey.

I managed to blow the white channel pwm output from the arduino, not thinking i unplugged the main power rs232 connection whist the power was still on then plugged it back in blew the 5 x 10w pwm drivers and the pwm feed from the arduino, now thinking of putting 30-40ma quick blow fuses on the pwm outputs
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on November 12, 2012, 02:16:40 PM
Bummer Dude
Makes Sence saves the Cost Of new Drivers :(
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: mrblah on November 12, 2012, 05:47:55 PM
I just ran Henning's DS1307 example sketch "DS1307_Serial_Easy" and here is what the Serial Monitor kicked back (I had my clock set previouslyto some random date and time):

SUN, 03.10.2010 -- 12:00:38
SUN, 03.10.2010 -- 12:00:39
SUN, 03.10.2010 -- 12:00:40
SUN, 03.10.2010 -- 12:00:41


So on and so forth.  While the Serial Monitor was continuing to run, I then pulled the power to the DS1307 circuit.  This is what I saw:

xxxxxxxxx 85.85.2165 -- 27:85:85
xxxxxxxxx 85.85.2165 -- 27:85:85
xxxxxxxxx 85.85.2165 -- 27:85:85
xxxxxxxxx 85.85.2165 -- 27:85:85


Finally, I then reconnected the power (with the Serial Monitor still running), and this is what was being printed out:

MON, 01.01.2000 -- 00:00:00
MON, 01.01.2000 -- 00:00:00
MON, 01.01.2000 -- 00:00:00
MON, 01.01.2000 -- 00:00:00


These results are expected.  I obtain similar results no matter which RTC circuit I use (My homemade circuit, the ITDB02 v1.1 Mega Shied, TinyRTC V1).  Hennings library works with everything I try.  I looked at the numbers on the different chips, in case anyone's interested.

On my homemade circuit, the chip says:
     DS1307
     1003A6
     538AE
     +

On my ITDB02 Mega Shield v1.1, the chip says:
     DS1307Z
     +1106A4
     152AA
     
On my TinyRTC V1, the chip says:
     DS1307ZN
     +1217A1
     001


I'm willing to test anyone's RTC if they feel there's a problem with it.  PM me and I'll give you my address so you can ship it to me (just make sure you include an evelope with return shipping so I can send it back to you).  I think Henning's library is very good, and I haven't had any issues with it whatsoever.  My Jarduino's been running a year now virtually non-stop, and the clock keeps ticking away... 


FYI, in Henning's DS1307 example sketches make sure you change the pins for SDA and SCL.  Specifically this line:

// Init the DS1307
DS1307 rtc(4, 5);

to this:

DS1307 rtc(20, 21);

And make sure you have the SDA and SCL pins from your RTC circuit connected to the correct pins on the Arduino (and the respective 5V and GND).

why even use a library to talk to these rtc's?   

I know my rtc is working, because it works with every other library and I've tried 10 of them
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 12, 2012, 05:53:55 PM
The functions are very handy
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 12, 2012, 06:04:17 PM
Because some folk are having trouble and are blaming the sketch so a sample sketch will show if the rtc is functioning or not process of elimination
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: mrblah on November 12, 2012, 06:08:29 PM
Test platform,  OSX 10.7.5
arduino 1.1
arduino uno
rtc with sda to A4 and sdl to A5

no wires touched with these tests

With i2c scanner
I2C Scanner
Scanning...
I2C device found at address 0x68 !
done

with lib I linked above

2012/11/12 13:1:10
 since midnight 1/1/1970 = 1352725270s = 15656d
 now + 7d + 30s: 2012/11/19 13:1:40

deleted library, unzipped jarduino, with jarduino libs and serial easy sample
With library from jarduino
xxxxxxxxx 00.00.2000 -- 00:00:85


Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: mrblah on November 12, 2012, 06:25:52 PM
I have it working

all other sketches and samples use analog 4 to sda and analog 5 to sdl

this library uses PWM digital 4 to SDA and PWM Digital 5 to SDL

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 12, 2012, 06:59:16 PM
Pins 4 & 5 are for Uno & Due, for Mega it's 20 & 21, and those need to be changed in the example sketches, as they are written with the aforementioned boards layouts...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: mrblah on November 12, 2012, 07:20:12 PM
I'm not using a mega yet, still prototyping hardware

for uno it's digital 4 & 5,  all the other sketches floating around use analog 4 & 5 for reef light control, that's a big difference, I thought it was a typo so I kept on using analog 4/5


are there any plans of adding return pump control into the feeding mode?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 12, 2012, 09:23:42 PM
I'm not using a mega yet, still prototyping hardware

for uno it's digital 4 & 5,  all the other sketches floating around use analog 4 & 5 for reef light control, that's a big difference, I thought it was a typo so I kept on using analog 4/5

So to be clear, Henning's DS1307 library does work for you?  My personal opinion is that it's a very robust library...

Quote
are there any plans of adding return pump control into the feeding mode?

I did some major alterations for a very generous Jarduino donor to do the following:

On timed or manual feed cycle:
   1)  Main Water Pump and skimmer turn off. Also power heads turn off.
   2)  1 minute after the pumps, skimmer, & powerheads turn off, the automatic feeder rotates
   3)  5 minutes after feeder rotates, power heads turn back on to whatever the selected wave program was before stopping
   4)  10 minutes after the power heads turn on, the Main water pump turns back on
   5)  2 minutes after main pump turns on, the Skimmer turns back on

Adding in all the code to do this took a lot of time and testing.  I suppose I could incorporate it into a future Jarduino release, but I do not have any plans to do such as of yet since the demand isn't there and I have several other things that are higher on my to-do list.  If a lot of you are interested in seeing this feature in a later release, please let me know.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: mrblah on November 12, 2012, 09:53:27 PM
I'm not using a mega yet, still prototyping hardware

for uno it's digital 4 & 5,  all the other sketches floating around use analog 4 & 5 for reef light control, that's a big difference, I thought it was a typo so I kept on using analog 4/5

So to be clear, Henning's DS1307 library does work for you?  My personal opinion is that it's a very robust library...

Quote
are there any plans of adding return pump control into the feeding mode?

I did some major alterations for a very generous Jarduino donor to do the following:

On timed or manual feed cycle:
   1)  Main Water Pump and skimmer turn off. Also power heads turn off.
   2)  1 minute after the pumps, skimmer, & powerheads turn off, the automatic feeder rotates
   3)  5 minutes after feeder rotates, power heads turn back on to whatever the selected wave program was before stopping
   4)  10 minutes after the power heads turn on, the Main water pump turns back on
   5)  2 minutes after main pump turns on, the Skimmer turns back on

Adding in all the code to do this took a lot of time and testing.  I suppose I could incorporate it into a future Jarduino release, but I do not have any plans to do such as of yet since the demand isn't there and I have several other things that are higher on my to-do list.  If a lot of you are interested in seeing this feature in a later release, please let me know.

yes it's working now

I would love to see this,   what you did for him is basically exactly what I do when I feed, otherwise the food ends up in the skimmer in seconds
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 12, 2012, 10:29:43 PM
Your just to good Jamie
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Illinoisplumber on November 12, 2012, 11:51:14 PM
I am having the same problem as Mrblah with the rtc. First i thought that it was a faulty chip. 4 chips later on the itdb02 shield v1.1 and one tinyrtc board later i'm still having the same issue.  :41: This is getting very frustrating.

So, were you able to get your RTC working using any of the libraries that Mr. Blah pointed out?

Yeah, it works with ladyada's library and examples. Ill check it out and post the esults when i get home. I am using a mega and i did change the sketches to use pins 20 and 21. Maybe my 5v pin on the mega isnt putting out enough power or something. I will test it with a meter. I have no doubt that it is something hardware related. We'll get it sorted out.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on November 13, 2012, 04:30:54 AM
Trying to get this up and running for the first time.

At Line 147:
ITDB02 myGLCD(38,39,40,41,ITDB32S);

I can't get it to recognize my Sainsmart LCD with SSD1289, no matter what I try from the list. I'm guessing I need to use the UTFT library.

What should the line look like to initialize the screen?

Does it also matter that I am not using the temp sensors for my build? Don't need them for the led functions.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Daka on November 13, 2012, 01:19:29 PM
I tried to load "DS1307_Serial_Easy, but I get an error. I changed the 4 and 5 to 20 and 21. For some reason it will not load.  :-[ Jamie if you dont mind ,please put a copy of the sketch u use here. Thanks
 Skip
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 13, 2012, 02:23:11 PM
I tried to load "DS1307_Serial_Easy, but I get an error. I changed the 4 and 5 to 20 and 21. For some reason it will not load.  :-[ Jamie if you don't mind ,please put a copy of the sketch u use here. Thanks
 Skip

Daka what error are you getting? and check your connections to make sure nothing is touching each other I did that with my first build I had a very small piece of solder from vcc touching gnd and it stopped my rtc the first time.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 13, 2012, 02:50:09 PM
Trying to get this up and running for the first time.

At Line 147:
ITDB02 myGLCD(38,39,40,41,ITDB32S);

I can't get it to recognize my Sainsmart LCD with SSD1289, no matter what I try from the list. I'm guessing I need to use the UTFT library.

What should the line look like to initialize the screen?

Does it also matter that I am not using the temp sensors for my build? Don't need them for the led functions.


This is what I have for mine and I use the SainSmart TFT shield I have a diffrent screen but it is SSD1289
ITDB02 myGLCD(38,39,40,41,ITDB32S);  //Uncomment this line for the SSD1289
can you post a link to the one you bought you might need to go to the Jarduino user manual look under the LCD screens you might need to pick your lcd the serial on it might be diffrent

This is a link to my TFT shield I use the one in the pic is V1.0 I have V1.2 it is what they are sending out now
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SainSmart-TFT-LCD-Adjustable-Shield-Arduino-Mega-2560-R3-1280-A082-Plug-/280910678327?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item416794c937

You don't have to have any thing hooked up for it to run not even rtc or temp.

Does your screen come on at all does it light up and just turn white or does it look the same all the time I ask because some ppl have had bad sainsmart screens

This is the screen I use and it was a cheap one from china http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Freeshipping-offer-Tracking-number-3-2-TFT-LCD-Display-Touch-Screen-Panel-PCB-adapter-w-SD/573372331.html

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on November 13, 2012, 03:08:12 PM
I tried that line, and it threw about 1000 errors.

I'm unsure of the model name that would be used for the ITDB02 library. I would probably need to use UTFT. This is the full kit:

http://www.sainsmart.com/home-page-view/sainsmart-mega2560-board-3-5-tft-lcd-module-display-shield-kit-for-atmel-atmega-avr-16au-atmega8u2.html

Screen is white before sketch upload, so it turns on
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 13, 2012, 03:11:57 PM

I did some major alterations for a very generous Jarduino donor to do the following:

On timed or manual feed cycle:
   1)  Main Water Pump and skimmer turn off. Also power heads turn off.
   2)  1 minute after the pumps, skimmer, & powerheads turn off, the automatic feeder rotates
   3)  5 minutes after feeder rotates, power heads turn back on to whatever the selected wave program was before stopping
   4)  10 minutes after the power heads turn on, the Main water pump turns back on
   5)  2 minutes after main pump turns on, the Skimmer turns back on

Adding in all the code to do this took a lot of time and testing.  I suppose I could incorporate it into a future Jarduino release, but I do not have any plans to do such as of yet since the demand isn't there and I have several other things that are higher on my to-do list.  If a lot of you are interested in seeing this feature in a later release, please let me know.

This would be great I use a feature just like this everyday.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 13, 2012, 04:46:12 PM
I have most of the proto boards done for my set up and added the alarm but after adding it to the control box you cant hear it or at least I can't. I was thinking of adding a 5v amp circuit till I found out I can buy a premade one about the same size as the rtc board for $3 with free shipping I should be able to add this right to the 5v wire going to the buzzer and use the same circuit to switch the ground to turn it off and on with pin 49. I am just sure how to use it to make the alarm sound. will it still make a sound like the buzzer does or is that do to the buzzer itself. I don't think the Jarduino uses a tone library I couldn't find tone() in the sketch.

another Idea I had was using a pre recorded msg on a small sound card and use the 5v as a trigger then run it out a 4-ohm computer case speaker. Any ideas or does this sound like over kill?

here is the link

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3W-2-Mini-Digital-power-Audio-Amplifier-Board-USB-DC-5V-Power-Supply-Arduino-/170929806566?_trksid=p5197.m1998&_trkparms=aid%3D555001%26algo%3DPW.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D18%26meid%3D3433864618599766761%26pid%3D100017%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D271102729897%26

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 13, 2012, 04:49:23 PM
I tried that line, and it threw about 1000 errors.

I'm unsure of the model name that would be used for the ITDB02 library. I would probably need to use UTFT. This is the full kit:

http://www.sainsmart.com/home-page-view/sainsmart-mega2560-board-3-5-tft-lcd-module-display-shield-kit-for-atmel-atmega-avr-16au-atmega8u2.html

Screen is white before sketch upload, so it turns on

No matter what module you put in there (ITDB32S, ITDB32, TFT01_32, etc.), as long as it's spelled correctly, you shouldn't recieve any errors.  To put this another way, there's no way for the Arduino IDE to know what screen you're using, so it will upload whatever you put in the code, as long as you put it in correctly, even if it's the incorrect module...  The errors have to be from something else.

What errors are you gettting?  Copy and paste them.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 13, 2012, 04:56:20 PM
I tried to load "DS1307_Serial_Easy, but I get an error. I changed the 4 and 5 to 20 and 21. For some reason it will not load.  :-[ Jamie if you dont mind ,please put a copy of the sketch u use here. Thanks
 Skip

It not loading has nothing at all to do with how you have it connected or what pins you define.  Is the example sketch taking more than a few seconds to upload or is your upload timing out?  Try using a different USB port if available.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 13, 2012, 05:17:40 PM
... added the alarm but after adding it to the control box you cant hear it or at least I can't...

with the arduino powered up, try temporarily connecting it to just 5V and GND.  This will test your speaker for functionality, and will be the loudest it will sound with just 5V.  It should be a relatively annoying loud pitched squeal.  You can do it with any buzzer, speaker, etc.

Quote
I was thinking of adding a 5v amp circuit till I found out I can buy a premade one about the same size as the rtc board for $3 with free shipping I should be able to add this right to the 5v wire going to the buzzer and use the same circuit to switch the ground to turn it off and on with pin 49. I am just sure how to use it to make the alarm sound. will it still make a sound like the buzzer does or is that do to the buzzer itself. I don't think the Jarduino uses a tone library I couldn't find tone() in the sketch.

adding an amp will make it louder of course, but like I said, first make sure you speaker even works.  I don't use any tone library, but you can easily add one.

Quote
another Idea I had was using a pre recorded msg on a small sound card and use the 5v as a trigger then run it out a 4-ohm computer case speaker. Any ideas or does this sound like over kill?

Only you can decide what is over kill for you. Basically, the Jarduino is a Robot.  It's purpose is to take out various tasks that you would otherwise have to perform manually and does them for you.  As the Jarduino continues to develop, it will take more and more tasks off your hands.  If you want your robot to talk to you, that's up to you and you can certainly have it do that.  Just don't be surprised when Arnold Schwarzenegger eventually comes busting down your door and Terminates your controller and all your livestock in the process to save the future from a Jarduino takeover of the world  :s_laugh:

(https://graph.facebook.com/676828375664430/picture)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 13, 2012, 05:40:43 PM
lol I really like that pic :) some days I feel like that.

I will try out the computer speaker soon as I can get one. There has to be one around here some where.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Daka on November 13, 2012, 06:48:17 PM
I tried to load "DS1307_Serial_Easy, but I get an error. I changed the 4 and 5 to 20 and 21. For some reason it will not load.  :-[ Jamie if you dont mind ,please put a copy of the sketch u use here. Thanks
 Skip

It not loading has nothing at all to do with how you have it connected or what pins you define.  Is the example sketch taking more than a few seconds to upload or is your upload timing out?  Try using a different USB port if available.

It loads for a second or two then it shows errors. I will copy errors when I get home tonight. Then a cold beer!!!!!!!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on November 14, 2012, 12:15:31 AM
Got Jarduino 1.2b2 running. I just switched to UTFT and everything worked out.

Its too bad I'm not skilled enough to build circuits and outlets for this thing. All the features are really cool. Now to design/build the light.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Daka on November 14, 2012, 01:47:32 PM
 :whoo: :whoo:  Got the RTC working. Thanks all for the help.   Looks like it was a bad breadbrd jumper wire and a bad copy of the test sketch.
Skip
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on November 14, 2012, 02:34:03 PM
:whoo: :whoo:  Got the RTC working. Thanks all for the help.   Looks like it was a bad breadbrd jumper wire and a bad copy of the test sketch.
Skip

The TinyRTC I got from ebay worked perfectly. I just soldered directly to the Mega.

Anyone know how much power the Mega, LCD screen, and 7 channels of PWM signal from the Mega draws (prob 30-40mah per channel)? I will have around 1000mah of current left to use from the power supply i will be using for the leds. Would that be enough to power the Jarduino with a 9v step down? It would make a cleaner, one power cord setup for me if it could.

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Daka on November 14, 2012, 05:25:56 PM
I am using a good computer supply to do everything(3v,5v, and 12v 1-19 amps) except LEDs, which I will use the one I got from my LED source. I use Steve's LEDs have great prices and all kinds of electronics for them...
I will start to post some pictures as the project go on.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on November 14, 2012, 05:48:40 PM
I am using a good computer supply to do everything(3v,5v, and 12v 1-19 amps) except LEDs, which I will use the one I got from my LED source. I use Steve's LEDs have great prices and all kinds of electronics for them...
I will start to post some pictures as the project go on.

I'll be using a mix of Steve's LEDs Luxeons and Semiled Violets, as well as Ledgroupbuy's Cree XT-Es. My white and blue channels will be driven at 1000mah. Steve's Luxeons only handle 1000 max, while the XT-Es can handle up to 1500mah. It will be less of a heat issue with the XT-Es.

The Mean Well LDD-1000HW, 700HW, and 600HW are PERFECT led drivers for the Jarduino. Everything is small enough to fit into a decent sized project box as well onto the fixture, while the power supplies will remain external and away from the tank.

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 16, 2012, 07:20:47 PM
The buzzer on proto 2 has the pos side going to 5v and the neg side is just being switched buy pin 49 is this right?
Cant I use a 12v buzzer hooked pos side to 12v all ready being supplied and just solder the neg side to the circuit in place of the neg pin of the 5v one? That way the same circuit I all ready have should still work and the larger buzzer can mount some where in the case off the board.

any problems with this before I do it ?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 16, 2012, 09:25:26 PM
The buzzer on proto 2 has the pos side going to 5v and the neg side is just being switched buy pin 49 is this right?

Nope.  The way I did it was I used a transistor.  The exact same kind that is used to turn the fans on/off and turn the auto-feeder on/off.  The reason why I used a transistor is to make sure the alarm goes completely off, which may be a little overkill, but since I had a bunch laying around, I figured why not.  Anyway, the circuit is circled in yellow below, and that is controlled by pin 49.  When juice is allowed to flow through, it goes through the buzzer...

(https://graph.facebook.com/676170735730194/picture)

And here's the underside:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676170762396858/picture)

Quote
Cant I use a 12v buzzer hooked pos side to 12v all ready being supplied and just solder the neg side to the circuit in place of the neg pin of the 5v one? That way the same circuit I all ready have should still work and the larger buzzer can mount some where in the case off the board.

any problems with this before I do it ?

If your buzzer/speaker can handle 12V, then it shouldn't pose any issues.  To make things easier to undersand, I made this diagram for you just now:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676830802330854/picture)

Notice how similar it is to the fan circuit?  Good, because it's nearly identical.  Note that I used 12V in the diagram, but in practice, I used 5V.

Now if you want to not use this circuit at all, that's fine.  You can try hooking up the + of the speaker to pin 49, and the - of the speaker to Arduino GND.  That's it.  Doesn't get any easier than that, but I can't say for sure if the speaker will make any sounds when it's not supposed to if hooked up in this fashion, but doing so will allow you to add tones or sound files, etc.  My advice is to just give it a try (test it out), and if it doesn't work, then hook it up according to the diagram.  And in case you're wondering, you don't need a variable resistor if you don't want/need to control the volume of the speaker.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 16, 2012, 11:51:52 PM
This will work just fine thank you
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 17, 2012, 12:19:26 AM
Has anyone got any itdb02 megashields 1.1 spare need 2-3 of them

kev

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 17, 2012, 02:35:30 AM
Has anyone got any itdb02 megashields 1.1 spare need 2-3 of them

kev

Google told me these guys will have them back in stock Monday:  http://www.lipoly.de/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=213707&language=en (http://www.lipoly.de/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=213707&language=en)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 17, 2012, 02:41:28 AM
Hey Kev, here's another with 11 units in stock:

 http://www.itead-europe.com/index.php/prototyping/itdb02-arduino-mega-shield-v1-1-kit.html (http://www.itead-europe.com/index.php/prototyping/itdb02-arduino-mega-shield-v1-1-kit.html)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 17, 2012, 10:52:34 AM
Great stuff spend hours looking last night gave up at 12am lol

cheers again matey
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Illinoisplumber on November 18, 2012, 09:21:03 AM
A bit of an update for you guys.... I fanally got my RTC working.  :bravo_2:Come to find out the Tinyrtc board that I have is defective, (No connection between the chip and sda solder pad.) After building my own circuit on a protoshield, all is working well. While I was waiting for the RTC parts I went ahead and put the temp sensor circuit on the same protoshield. All I have left to do is hooke up my wires from my lights, fans, and wavemaker and I am golden. I have had the lights running for about a month now. I used 3-up stars from steve's leds along with his drivers and heatsinks from rapidled. 16 royal blue, 8 neutral white, 8 true violets on seperate channels. 4 stars with 1 red, 1 cool blue, and 1 cyan on each star for the last channel. I went that route because I had the drivers already from a previous led build that just hast 50/50 blue and white. The color from the new light is nothing short of amazing. Thanks for all the help Jamie! :You_Rock_Emoticon:
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on November 18, 2012, 09:54:38 AM
Jamie did extensive changes for me as I have led lights that are just on timers.
Each 4ft strip is controlled in 15 min intervals. I also have Aquaray 600's that perform the sunrise/sunset/moon lighting.
Also Jamie modded my feeder so that it will shut down my return pump and skimmer to save food heading straight for the sump.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: isacco on November 18, 2012, 11:18:37 AM
Starting my build  and I need the size of tft to make a bezel for it. mine didn´t arrive yet. just organizing things and planning.  It will be a hang on fixture and everithing is gonna be inside.

I´m stuck here waiting for leds and lens, arduino and tft.

(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff234/gigimuschi/18112012285.jpg)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 18, 2012, 12:08:46 PM
Saw this build when looking through reef face nitram38 nice one fella any more build pics ? maybe start a thread



Jamie did extensive changes for me as I have led lights that are just on timers.
Each 4ft strip is controlled in 15 min intervals. I also have Aquaray 600's that perform the sunrise/sunset/moon lighting.
Also Jamie modded my feeder so that it will shut down my return pump and skimmer to save food heading straight for the sump.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 18, 2012, 12:09:28 PM
Good start what voltage is the psu ? maybe start a build thread will keep jamies a little cleaner  :93:

Starting my build  and I need the size of tft to make a bezel for it. mine didn´t arrive yet. just organizing things and planning.  It will be a hang on fixture and everithing is gonna be inside.

I´m stuck here waiting for leds and lens, arduino and tft.

(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff234/gigimuschi/18112012285.jpg)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 18, 2012, 05:53:44 PM
oh bugga noticed last night the frag tank controller time had gone to 00.00 tried changing the time and no difference, so today looked at the 2032 batt and replaced it still no good cleared eeprom and reloaded software but still no joy

anyone else had a megashield rtc fail ?

ah so tried the arduino 1280 on another shield and screen and still the same then tried the 2560 arduino on the fragtank rtc shield and screen and tft and works ok so looking towards arduino im baffled lol

Replaced the 1280 with an 2560 uploaded betta 2 all fine on usb on the pc clock works fine can alter it and it saves, soon as i plug it in to the psu clock and date goes to 78/78/78 28:28 unplug it and put back in to the usb and works spot on again ouch my head


Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on November 18, 2012, 10:00:56 PM
Hi all

Quick question before I build my wiring looms, does anyone know how long the cable can be between the Arduino and the led drivers ?  Also how long the cable can be to the temp sensors .

Cheers
Steve
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 18, 2012, 10:17:40 PM
Got an rs232 from arduino to the led unit on my tank and thats 5m long budd same with the temp sensor on the led unit
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on November 18, 2012, 10:34:48 PM
Cheers Kev
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: isacco on November 19, 2012, 08:00:27 PM
Good start what voltage is the psu ? maybe start a build thread will keep jamies a little cleaner  :93:

Sorry about that, wasn´t my intencion. PSU is 24V 8,8A, will drive 60 leds. Anyway just found tft size.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 19, 2012, 10:01:23 PM
Dont apologise dont be daft might be easier for yourself thats all budd

i got the 36v one but was around £40 each and 11amp
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: isacco on November 20, 2012, 07:15:04 PM
Dont apologise dont be daft might be easier for yourself thats all budd

i got the 36v one but was around £40 each and 11amp

There is a Spanish saying that says: "I'd rather ask forgiveness than permission" or something like that, my English is very rusty.

I got the 24V because the drivers I use are max 6 leds at 800mA so I hope I don´t need more.
Is it ok to connect 3 drivers PWM cable to one PWM led pin  channel on Arduino?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 20, 2012, 08:06:43 PM
Yes got one pwm pin running 5 x 10w drivers
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: pughy on November 21, 2012, 06:19:30 PM
This is amazing,  :c029:  cant wait try this out on my new build tank, will be starting a build for my new tank
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on November 24, 2012, 01:32:12 AM
Is it ok to make minor text changes to the code? I've changed the Sump channel to say "Green" for my green led channel, and I changed the menu to say BHazard's Jarduino LED controller. If that's not ok let me know.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 24, 2012, 03:56:15 AM
Yes, make whatever changes you like!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Illinoisplumber on November 24, 2012, 09:49:35 PM
Hmmmm.... I have gotten everything connected, temp sensors are working fine, fan control is working fine, wavemaker fine, but it seems that my red channel is controlling all of my leds.... I am using drivers from steve's leds. I don't have anymore time to tinker with it until late this evening. Anyone ever had the same problem? Using version 1.2beta2. Only changes that I have made to the code were adding my temp sensor addys and changing the line to false for the led drivers. Any suggestions?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 24, 2012, 10:12:27 PM
...it seems that my red channel is controlling all of my leds....Any suggestions?

Re-check your wiring.  Each LED color (as defined in the sketch) should get connected as follows (assuming you didn't change colors, which would be fine):

Color = PWM Pin Number
Sump = 7
Blue = 8
White = 9
Royal Blue = 10
Red = 11
UV = 12
Moon = 13

Maybe you can try disconnnecting them one at a time and trying them that way?  Then try adding two wires at the same time, then three, etc. Until you get them all connected.  That way, you can narrow down the trouble maker.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Illinoisplumber on November 25, 2012, 06:40:16 PM
...it seems that my red channel is controlling all of my leds....Any suggestions?

Re-check your wiring.  Each LED color (as defined in the sketch) should get connected as follows (assuming you didn't change colors, which would be fine):

Color = PWM Pin Number
Sump = 7
Blue = 8
White = 9
Royal Blue = 10
Red = 11
UV = 12
Moon = 13

Maybe you can try disconnnecting them one at a time and trying them that way?  Then try adding two wires at the same time, then three, etc. Until you get them all connected.  That way, you can narrow down the trouble maker.

Should i have continuity between pwm pins on the arduino?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 26, 2012, 01:44:28 AM
Should i have continuity between pwm pins on the arduino?

The only thing that should be common here is GND.  Each PWM pin needs to be isolated, otherwise the signals will get mixed.  I'm guessing your RED channel is either dominant or is the last signal to get outputted (if that's a word), and so if your PWM pins are all connected to one another then it would make sense that one channel is controlling all of the channels.  That's why I suggest you connect just one channel to begin with and test it out using the "Control Individual LEDs" slider bars function, then connect a second channel to make sure they are isolated, then a third, etc., to help you isolate where the PWM signals are getting mixed up.  You can also use a multimeter for testing.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Illinoisplumber on November 26, 2012, 03:47:12 AM
Should i have continuity between pwm pins on the arduino?

The only thing that should be common here is GND.  Each PWM pin needs to be isolated, otherwise the signals will get mixed.  I'm guessing your RED channel is either dominant or is the last signal to get outputted (if that's a word), and so if your PWM pins are all connected to one another then it would make sense that one channel is controlling all of the channels.  That's why I suggest you connect just one channel to begin with and test it out using the "Control Individual LEDs" slider bars function, then connect a second channel to make sure they are isolated, then a third, etc., to help you isolate where the PWM signals are getting mixed up.  You can also use a multimeter for testing.

That is what i thought. I have continuity between the pins on the arduino. I dont have any wires connected and there are no bridged solder joints. Looks like im going to have to pick up another one.... lol
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on November 26, 2012, 05:22:54 AM
That is what i thought. I have continuity between the pins on the arduino. I dont have any wires connected and there are no bridged solder joints. Looks like im going to have to pick up another one.... lol

Are you saying the PWM pins on your Arduino are connected somehow?  All the numbered pins should be isolated from one another.  All of them.  This is certainly the first I've heard of something like this.  I would definately contact whomever sold you the board and demand a replacement. 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Illinoisplumber on November 26, 2012, 05:43:20 AM
That is what i thought. I have continuity between the pins on the arduino. I dont have any wires connected and there are no bridged solder joints. Looks like im going to have to pick up another one.... lol

Are you saying the PWM pins on your Arduino are connected somehow?  All the numbered pins should be isolated from one another.  All of them.  This is certainly the first I've heard of something like this.  I would definately contact whomever sold you the board and demand a replacement.
Yup, they are reading with some resistance, but they are connected none the less.... every single one of them has a connections to each other somehow.... The board is from Radio Shack. It was purchased several months ago so I'm not sure about them giving me a replacement but I am going to try like hell... lol Funny thing is I tried disconnecting each wire from the drivers one at a time and when I disconnected the red channel, all of the lights went out. I sure thought that I would find a short in my wiring somewhere but I started testing and my wiring is fine. A little messy maybe, but no shorts, all of the solder joints look nice and shiny. I know the lights are good because I have had them running on my tank for a couple of months now just using pots to dim them. I will be a happy camper to get this all sorted out... :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on November 27, 2012, 07:17:42 PM
Question on the LED intervals every 15 minutes...

Do the LEDs ramp up/down continuously and smoothly within each 15 minutes, or do they only change at the intervals? Ramping would be much nicer than having an abrupt change. If it doesn't ramp, I would give a very nice donation for more LED features, such as ramping, storms, clouds, etc. If Wifi is ever implemented, that would also be worth a nice donation.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Valld on November 27, 2012, 10:18:38 PM
Hello All, Greetings from Botswana!

Jamie you did (and keep doing) an amazing job! I was looking for a flexible aquarium controller for more than 3 months. 2 day ago I found your solution and just finish reading the user manual for your Jarduino. I also tried to read this whole tread but maybe I missed the answer of my question, which is:

There is a "6 channel Power LED shield" on E-bay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370604722551?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


 which cost ($22) - much less than the Craig's Garage Power LED shield 2 (~$160), but I also didn't find any manual or information about the first one.

I'm interested to add one of them (the cheaper version preferably) to your solution, but I didn't find any information on the compatibility of this two shields with the Jarduino. I'm really sorry if this issue is already covered earlier in the thread. All I want to know is if its possible to stack one of them and what will be the wiring/pin connections between this shields and the rest of the modules. I'm absolutely new to the Arduino community, but I have some limited knowledge in electronics, pretty good soldering skills, a perfect soldering iron (Xytronics)) and a great enthusiasm to build one of those babies :-)

Thanks in advance!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on November 27, 2012, 11:07:36 PM
Saw that one a while back, only thing would be to make sure the pwm pins link up from the arduino and the driver shield, Personally i wouldnt want the extra heat from the led drivers near the arduino
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Screener on November 28, 2012, 05:53:39 AM
Hello All, Greetings from Botswana!

Botswana - what a community, wow that's really great!

I was wondering if there is any interest in helping me think about a pcb design for my jarduino project  that can hold meanwell ldd1000h controllers. I'll need 12 over all for my build to control 2 x dream chips, sump and moon. maybe configured as two boards for 6
I'm thinking it might be usefull for this pcb to be also a convenient place for combining wires for thermometer and fan leads, pwm wires,  buck constant voltage supplies, and mounting modular ph orp relay daughter boards too so that they can be powered and addressed easily without all the spaghetti. It seems several builders have spent much frustration over mistaken wiring of peripherals.

Would someone with experience with eagle like to join in this idea to, with their expertise we could make files and split a board make minimum among the jarduino builders with similar interests ???

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on November 28, 2012, 03:39:37 PM
There is a thread on Reef Central with several of us trying to have some of those pcbs created. A few of them have already started on the eagle files.

Iteadstudio can create the boards, and they are cheap. The LDDs on a pcb can offer a very clean connection to the Jarduino, with a small footprint.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Valld on November 28, 2012, 09:01:22 PM
That would be a brilliant addition to the Jarduino beauty. I was actually considerig using 7 meanwell LDD-700-H drivers for my setup when i saw this board on e-bay. It will be much better with the meanwell drivers and all the connectors and sensors mentioned above. And with the 97% efficiency of the LDD's the power dissipation should be minimal. Imagine a nice, sleek sexy box with jarduino and the new drivers/sensors board inside and just one input and one output cables visible. Please stop me before I start dreaming! Or it's too late? Let's see how the electronic gurus in the forum will respond to this great idea. At the mean time I'm ordering the Jarduino moduls and starting to play with my new toy. What about the Chester garage Power LED driver 2? Anyone using it with Jarduino? Any suggestion or instruction on connecting it?

By the way I'm Bulgarian, I just leave and work in Botswana since 2008.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on November 29, 2012, 02:19:20 AM
Jamie uses Chester's led boards in the original jarduino build go
Back to page 3 I think and look for the led boards
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Screener on November 29, 2012, 04:08:09 AM
 :c017:
I'm using two dream chips so I need a little more output voltage than Chester's board. The ldd1000h controllers would be ok for me but the boards designed in the other place are 4 channel and only for the drivers. I'd still have to add resisters for temp chips and wires etc for Fan on/off and pwm.  Rather than a bunch of pronto boards I thought  y'all might like a bespoke board for the common jarduino peripherals. Im thinking to start with 5 channels of leds fans and thermometers then add the hardware to unpopulated functions as I go.

Does anyone know how I get started with eagle?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: scier choireil on November 30, 2012, 01:39:06 PM
will this pre built one work?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SainSmart-Mega2560-3-2-TFT-LCD-Shield-Touch-Screen-SD-Reader-4-Arduino-UNO-UK-/281031062900?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item416ec1b574

thanks
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on November 30, 2012, 02:20:16 PM
That's the one I'm using. It works, but the lcd screen isn't so great. Mine already needs replacement.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 01, 2012, 01:35:33 AM
...There is a "6 channel Power LED shield" on E-bay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370604722551?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

 which cost ($22) - much less than the Craig's Garage Power LED shield 2 (~$160), but I also didn't find any manual or information about the first one.

I'm interested to add one of them (the cheaper version preferably) to your solution, but I didn't find any information on the compatibility of this two shields with the Jarduino...

Greetings Screener, and welcome to UKreefs!  Glad to have you aboard.  The LED driver you pointed out will work with the Jarduino (as should almost any PWM driven driver).  There are a few users in Russia that currently use that particular shield with their builds, so not only do you have my reassurance that they will work, but they are actually proven to work.  Anyway, just by looking at the shield you should realize that this thing won't be able to be directly stacked on top of your Arduino MEGA.  The side rails look fine, but if you notice at the end, there are no rail headers to pass the digital pins on the end of the Arduino to the next level, where you'd hook up the ITDB02 shield and LCD screen.  Just as well I suppose, as Kev pointed out that you really don't want excessive amounts of heat from the drivers near the Arduino anyway.  You'll simply have to come up with a solution as I did with "Chester's" (not Craig) Power LED shields and flank it.  That is, simply make connections from the Arduino to this shield without stacking.  The only pins you'll need to connect are the digital PWM pins for the LEDs (pins 7-12 & 13 if you want the Lunar LEDs), and GND of course.  That's it.  Then by the look of things you'll just add some good old fashioned DC power to it and connect it to the LEDs using those green screwdowns...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Screener on December 01, 2012, 04:10:38 AM
Jamie the 18b20 requires a pull up resistor. Dies it matter if it is near the Tchip or the photo board end of a long lead???
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 01, 2012, 04:24:41 AM
Jamie the 18b20 requires a pull up resistor. Dies it matter if it is near the Tchip or the photo board end of a long lead???

It doesn't matter where it is within the circuit, just so long as it's in that circuit and between legs 2 & 3 of the DS18B20.  But to be clear, if you have more than one Temp Sensor, make sure you use only one resistor total (not one for each sensor, but one for the entire circuit).   

(https://graph.facebook.com/676833208997280/picture)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Screener on December 01, 2012, 06:16:24 PM
And the same with the protection diode on the fan circuit, right? --- Can be away from the fan, on the pcb, not on the fan end.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 01, 2012, 06:53:56 PM
And the same with the protection diode on the fan circuit, right? --- Can be away from the fan, on the pcb, not on the fan end.

This is true with virtually all circuits.  There are some exceptions, such as placing a snubber as close as possible to the power contacts, but then again these are just manufacter recommendations...  I would try to put your circuitry as close together as possible, as it will run more efficiently, but if you can't, then it most likely will still work, just not as efficiently and/or possibly as expected (but not likely in this case).
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Valld on December 01, 2012, 10:08:04 PM
Quote
Greetings Screener, and welcome to UKreefs!  Glad to have you aboard.  The LED driver you pointed out will work with the Jarduino (as should almost any PWM driven driver).  There are a few users in Russia that currently use that particular shield with their builds, so not only do you have my reassurance that they will work, but they are actually proven to work.  Anyway, just by looking at the shield you should realize that this thing won't be able to be directly stacked on top of your Arduino MEGA.  The side rails look fine, but if you notice at the end, there are no rail headers to pass the digital pins on the end of the Arduino to the next level, where you'd hook up the ITDB02 shield and LCD screen.  Just as well I suppose, as Kev pointed out that you really don't want excessive amounts of heat from the drivers near the Arduino anyway.  You'll simply have to come up with a solution as I did with "Chester's" (not Craig) Power LED shields and flank it.  That is, simply make connections from the Arduino to this shield without stacking.  The only pins you'll need to connect are the digital PWM pins for the LEDs (pins 7-12 & 13 if you want the Lunar LEDs), and GND of course.  That's it.  Then by the look of things you'll just add some good old fashioned DC power to it and connect it to the LEDs using those green screwdowns...

Thanks Jamie!  I really appreciate your imput. I decided that I'm going to build a custom box for the controller and I will split all the shields I'm gonna use, similar to your build, but in a box with appropriate ventilation (I'm planning to use open top, the hood with the led's will cover about 50% of the top, because of the heat here in Botswana. For now the design is still forming shape in my brain, I've already ordered all the components, including the above mentioned 6 channel board, all other shields and led's. I'm planning also when i get all the parts and start assembling them, to contribute to the project, but I don't know what could be a reasonable donation, I never participate anything similar, so please let me know, I will definitely need your help soon.

Could you please send me some links or contacts to this Russian users you mentioned above, there is no any information about this 6 channel shield in the net. I think I figured out all the connections from the two photos and the link, but this was not enough for me to understand how to set the current for each chanel. Bulgarian and Russian are very similar languages and I used to study Russian in the school (it was mandatory for all communist countries back in '80s), I can even help if there is a need for some translation.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: senne76 on December 02, 2012, 12:43:34 AM
When wil the stable v1.2 or v1.3 come out?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 02, 2012, 04:46:37 AM
When wil the stable v1.2 or v1.3 come out?

I'm not sure when the next release will be available.  Busy Busy...  Is your Jarduino unstable?  The only real unstablility I've seen in the Jarduino is a result of the hardware.  I'm working on some things that will compensate for some of the hardware's shortcomings, but like I said, I can't give you a specific date.  Sorry...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: senne76 on December 02, 2012, 07:42:37 AM
No it isn't , I'm just waiting for the wifi module ;D
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Baietz on December 02, 2012, 03:31:43 PM
...There is a "6 channel Power LED shield" on E-bay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370604722551?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

 which cost ($22) - much less than the Craig's Garage Power LED shield 2 (~$160), but I also didn't find any manual or information about the first one.

I'm interested to add one of them (the cheaper version preferably) to your solution, but I didn't find any information on the compatibility of this two shields with the Jarduino...

Greetings Screener, and welcome to UKreefs!  Glad to have you aboard.  The LED driver you pointed out will work with the Jarduino (as should almost any PWM driven driver).  There are a few users in Russia that currently use that particular shield with their builds, so not only do you have my reassurance that they will work, but they are actually proven to work.  Anyway, just by looking at the shield you should realize that this thing won't be able to be directly stacked on top of your Arduino MEGA.  The side rails look fine, but if you notice at the end, there are no rail headers to pass the digital pins on the end of the Arduino to the next level, where you'd hook up the ITDB02 shield and LCD screen.  Just as well I suppose, as Kev pointed out that you really don't want excessive amounts of heat from the drivers near the Arduino anyway.  You'll simply have to come up with a solution as I did with "Chester's" (not Craig) Power LED shields and flank it.  That is, simply make connections from the Arduino to this shield without stacking.  The only pins you'll need to connect are the digital PWM pins for the LEDs (pins 7-12 & 13 if you want the Lunar LEDs), and GND of course.  That's it.  Then by the look of things you'll just add some good old fashioned DC power to it and connect it to the LEDs using those green screwdowns...

which is the maximum that supports input amp? I can connect a string of 20 LED 3.3 v 1000mA per channel?

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: isacco on December 02, 2012, 09:28:15 PM
Forwhat i have seen is max 30V input, so i think like 9leds per channel. I am on holiday now but couldn't resist ordering one for testing >:D
Hope when back home everything arrived and begin my build.
As for input 6x1000mA / channel you will need a 30Vcc at least 6A to run 9 leds / channel 54 total.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: senne76 on December 03, 2012, 10:53:57 AM
And when will the public version of 1,2b come out ? (I don't have paypal , mastercard or something like that so I can't donate :03:)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on December 03, 2012, 06:01:28 PM
For you married guys don't let your wife know what your building (mine) is saying she wants to use my jarduino to controll a new led I have to build now to go over an herb garden in the kitchen that doesn't exist yet till I build that to.I don't think she knows the full power yet of this build and I hope she doesn't find out.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Valld on December 05, 2012, 09:54:30 AM
Dear All,

I didn't want to flood the topic every time I have a question or need help, so I did prepare a diagram with all the components for my build. I will appreciate if you guys take a look and let me know if you see any weaknesses or incompatibility of the components or anything you don't like or think can be done better, or I have missed. Also below I have some questions, it would be of a great help for me if you find time to discuss. I tried to give as much information on the schematics as I can, but if something is not clear, please let me know (or if you think something is not clear to me  :85: )

1. I will be using two heatsinks I just got for free from a friend. They are quite heavy - 2 kg each and the base is 10mm thick, so I decided not to drill 100s of small holes in a thick aluminum. Is the Thermal Adhesive worst option than Thermal paste?.

2. I will be using an open top design for my LED build. Do you think I can go with NO cooling fans considering the size of the heat sinks and the opened top design?

3. I have included two different aluminum enclosures to the schematic, because I cannot decide which one to use. It will stay between the two heatsinks, so I prefer the smaller one, but I'm not sure if I will fit everything in it (without the power supplies of course).

Please share your opinion and thanks in advance.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: svyaz on December 05, 2012, 10:30:50 AM
Hi all,

I am often asked about connecting drivers Ledseeduino I decided to write in the Forum so everyone can read
Current for each channel can be set having solder jumper
in the photo we can see that you can set 0.35A,0.7A or 1A the default is set to 0.35A (not solder a jumper)

(http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/6217/dscf5825m.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/856/dscf5825m.jpg/)(http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/1014/16254157.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/825/16254157.jpg/)

Channel numbers are marked in red and white pins arduino

(http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/9563/42909695.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/17/42909695.jpg/)

put on top of the arduino will not come out, since the motherboard drivers have no contacts screen

(http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/8483/97758719.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/31/97758719.jpg/)

Connection to the power supply and output on LEDs via the terminal strip in the front of the card

(http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/8607/dscf5832.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/846/dscf5832.jpg/)(http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/3691/42072555.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/717/42072555.jpg/)

If someone wants a photo in a bigger resolution, contact the me P.M.



Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: svyaz on December 05, 2012, 11:16:07 AM
Please share your opinion and thanks in advance.
Valentin,
1. you are too far apart are LEDs when covering the Aquarium will be colored shadows It is desirable to have diodes clusters
2. instead of simple red is better to use leds Deep Red with wavelength 650-670nm
3. one only Royal Blue little It is desirable to add Blue or cyan

(http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/2050/41326462.png) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/526/41326462.png/)(http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/1352/47088520.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/836/47088520.jpg/)(http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/1293/35191179.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/231/35191179.jpg/)

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Valld on December 05, 2012, 01:10:23 PM
Thanks Vadim! I think now after you post the Ledseeduino details the last "shady" places of my project are lighted. But you opened a new ones  :c017: By the way how do you find this Ledseeduino boards? Are they good quality, are they reliable? Do they need substantial cooling? I went for them mostly because of the price and the small footprint, and because I'm not planning to overload them.

Regarding my choice of LED's - I realize that I didn't mention the most important - the purpose of my build. My tank is freshwater Oscar tank (now the thread is not only growing huge, but expanding to the freshwater, my bad  :c029:). Oscars are known to not care about the light too much, if not at all. My tank (75G or 280l) SunSun came with 2*25W SunSun luminescent tubes 14 000k. This light is too "cool" for Amazon River aquarium, my Red Oscars colors are faded (even fed with only Hikari Bio Gold +) and the whole tank looks like a hospital room. And of course no dimming and no sunset/sunrise.  That's how the whole idea started.

 The main lightning will be the 20 warm whites 1-3.5 Watt (at up to 1000 mA) which should be more than enough even at half intensity, the rest I'm gonna use to experiment - the royal blues I will probably use separate for late night as a "moon" light, the cool whites I will (probably, if necessary) mix with the warm whites if the "daylight" is too yellowish, the red ones I will try to use mixed with the warm whites for 30-60 minutes a day to simulate a beach yellow-reddish sunset.  With zero experience in LED world this is all only in my brain, like a grown men's new toy.

Opposite the reef tanks where the corals and the other sea creatures need a very specific lightning, I'm doing it mostly for the fun from DIY and to educate myself into the new LED lightning area. Maybe on the last place to have a descent lightning for my tank  :a102:

But your comments actually let me think that whatever experiment I'm gonna do with the different colors, its a good idea to combine red, blue and green LED's in clusters to avoid the colored shadows. If I understand you correctly its better to combine the LED's in clusters in bigger distance between them, than to just spread them around the heatsink? . I will change the LED positioning, add some green and post the new distribution later. I need to keep myself busy and educate as much as possible for the next few weeks until all the components arrive and I start gluing the small gems to the heatsink, so any comments and critics are welcomed!

And Vadim, big thanks again!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on December 05, 2012, 03:22:27 PM
Valld I am making 3 diffrent jarduino's one will be over my 180Gal fresh tank. I have many angelfish and Discus and I also wanted a better way to light it. I was using 9x96W CF bulbs to cover it all my fish didn't care about the light either but many of the plants I have do.
Point is if you ever think you will want plants in it or will change to a diffrent style of tank like pea**** chiclid's or something you might want to use the deep red's I use 650-670 also some blue 420-450 should be OK. I got them from rapiedled you can buy anywhere you want just easier to add them now instead of later
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: senne76 on December 05, 2012, 06:34:47 PM
What code do you use for those awesome slider bars ?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Valld on December 05, 2012, 07:04:05 PM
Point is if you ever think you will want plants in it or will change to a diffrent style of tank like pea**** chiclid's or something you might want to use the deep red's I use 650-670 also some blue 420-450 should be OK. I got them from rapiedled you can buy anywhere you want just easier to add them now instead of later

Thanks for your imput Dale, that's why I'm on this forum, im going from where you guys are coming from!
Shall I mix the reds that I already have with some deep reds and the royal blues with some blues, or you suggest to replace them? Also I can only shop from e-bay and I don't find any blues in the 420-450, only 450-470.

Dale, are this reds good quality: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-1W-Deep-Red-High-Power-660NM-Plant-Grow-LED-Emitter-20mm-Star-Base-/320867348323?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab52f2f63 ? I don't want to buy some junk and struggle later (I'm not so rich to buy cheep stuff)

Last question - shall I include some greens? I'm currently using 5 channels of the board, have 1 free. And any suggestin on the proportion cw/ww/r/dr/b/rb/g suitable for my setup?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 05, 2012, 07:55:38 PM
What code do you use for those awesome slider bars ?

Just some code I came up with...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Valld on December 05, 2012, 08:00:03 PM
Please share your opinion and thanks in advance.
Valentin,
you are too far apart are LEDs when covering the Aquarium will be colored shadows It is desirable to have diodes clusters


Vadim, does this makes more sense? That's the maximum LED's I can use with one board and I want to keep one board per panel with no more than 75% load. From now I can just change the proportion. By the way when my 5 years old daughter saw the drawing she said " Daddy, can you teach me how to draw this nice balloons!"  :57: She didn't like the first version at all, so I believe I'm on the right way.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: svyaz on December 06, 2012, 11:05:43 AM
Vadim, does this makes more sense? That's the maximum LED's I can use with one board and I want to keep one board per panel with no more than 75% load. From now I can just change the proportion.
Valentin,      
Green LEDs must be reduced, many believe that green is not needed at all, it is present in white
Warm White channel is not necessary, provided the Red ice (deep red) for photosynthesis peaks occur in the red and blue wavelengths   
Instead of Warm White is best to use Cool White. Colored (red, blue) for better mixing, place in Center

(http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/1377/79184750.png) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/541/79184750.png/)
Quote
By the way when my 5 years old daughter saw the drawing she said " Daddy, can you teach me how to draw this nice balloons!"  :57: She didn't like the first version at all, so I believe I'm on the right way.
The child has spoken by the mouth of truth (Russian proverb) ask your daughter to draw balls like she likes it and will correctly  ;D
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on December 06, 2012, 03:01:14 PM
I did a fast eBay search for red led and got this. When buying please research on your own any help or ideas people give you some times even the best help might not be correct for your application

http://www.eBay.com/itm/3W-RED-80lm-650nm-660nm-LED-Plant-Glow-Light-/220813060538?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33697be9ba
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Valld on December 06, 2012, 04:59:52 PM
I did a fast eBay search for red led and got this. When buying please research on your own any help or ideas people give you some times even the best help might not be correct for your application

http://www.eBay.com/itm/3W-RED-80lm-650nm-660nm-LED-Plant-Glow-Light-/220813060538?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33697be9ba

Thanks for your help Dale, I also came to this one and already ordered 10 and another 10 from this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251012472072?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649    Hopefully I will be able to report the results in a month.

Vadim, does this makes more sense? That's the maximum LED's I can use with one board and I want to keep one board per panel with no more than 75% load. From now I can just change the proportion.
Valentin,      
Green LEDs must be reduced, many believe that green is not needed at all, it is present in white
Warm White channel is not necessary, provided the Red ice (deep red) for photosynthesis peaks occur in the red and blue wavelengths   
Instead of Warm White is best to use Cool White. Colored (red, blue) for better mixing, place in Center

(http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/1377/79184750.png) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/541/79184750.png/)
Quote
By the way when my 5 years old daughter saw the drawing she said " Daddy, can you teach me how to draw this nice balloons!"  :57: She didn't like the first version at all, so I believe I'm on the right way.
The child has spoken by the mouth of truth (Russian proverb) ask your daughter to draw balls like she likes it and will correctly  ;D

Vadim, thanks a lot for opening my eyes to the LED clustering! At the end of the day I ended up with a mix created from you, me and my daughter. She decided that 5 funny colorful snowman is the best option  :111:  I left the warm whites (60$ already spent) , removed the greens and increase the cool whites to match the worm whites. I believe this configuration is the most flexible and can give me unlimited experiment possibilities. All already ordered, I will come back with some results (and definitely questions and donations) when everything arrives.

Any other advice is welcomed!

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on December 06, 2012, 11:28:37 PM
Why the reds and greens ? are they just to bring out more colour they do nothing for coral growth, uvs are a good one to add
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on December 07, 2012, 09:04:14 PM
Vadim, does this makes more sense? That's the maximum LED's I can use with one board and I want to keep one board per panel with no more than 75% load. From now I can just change the proportion.
Valentin,      
Green LEDs must be reduced, many believe that green is not needed at all, it is present in white
Warm White channel is not necessary, provided the Red ice (deep red) for photosynthesis peaks occur in the red and blue wavelengths   
Instead of Warm White is best to use Cool White. Colored (red, blue) for better mixing, place in Center

No, no, and no. I have had much more success running Neutral Whites and a few warm whites compared to running cool whites. NW and WW also look much nicer, and coral/fish color are much more vibrant.  If you use only cool whites, you will drastically reduce the color rendition of your coral if you do not compensate with filling in the spectrum gap you have created by using them. Cree Cool Whites also have a large amount of green in them, along with some 450nm blue, and not much else. Since you yourself have stated that green is not needed, you are contradicting yourself by running CW. NW and WW better mimic the sun over the tropical ocean, and evenly distribute spectrum over a wider range. You will have better success with LEDs if you mimic the spectrum output of a MH bulb that you like. MH has spectrum across the board covered from 380-700nm.

I have also tested WW with 660nm red supplementation, and without. Visually, it is still more appealing to add a few 660nm reds despite already using WW. WW does not have much output in the 660nm range, and visually the led itself looks more like 590nm yellow.

Why the reds and greens ? are they just to bring out more colour they do nothing for coral growth, uvs are a good one to add

Yep. A small amount of green alters the color rendition that you see favorably, because green light near 520nm is picked up very easily by our eyes. Using Cyan leds in the 490nm range also touches upon a photosynthetic peak which benefits coral, despite the leds looking green themselves.  Red 660nm also hits a photosynthetic peak, and also favors color rendition. Primary colors, RGB.  This is why my build has a red and green channel, and also why Ecotech uses it. Add violets as well and you are golden.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on December 09, 2012, 08:57:38 AM
Not convinced will look forward to see the better growth results in your unit. vortech only shoved them in due to customer demand other high end leds units dont use them only them which are way over priced when the razors have more par for the cash all hype same as the storm / cloud functions/lightening do nothing at all

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on December 09, 2012, 05:53:47 PM
Not convinced will look forward to see the better growth results in your unit. vortech only shoved them in due to customer demand other high end leds units dont use them only them which are way over priced when the razors have more par for the cash all hype same as the storm / cloud functions/lightening do nothing at all

Razors are my favorite commercial fixture, but I know I can do it a little better. The Jarduino is PERFECT for 6 channels of this, as I just edited the sump channel into a green channel. This way I have full control of how much green/red I want to use. Growth is similar with using CW, as it is more about color. I ran CW/RB for a few months and was not happy with the results. The Coralvue rep summed it up perfectly when asked.

"Originally Posted by chris@CoralVue 
I don't understand why there would be doubts about the warm white LEDs. The use of warm white LEDs is necessary for proper color rendition. Metal Halide and Fluorescent light sources both cover broad spectrums in cyan, green, amber, orange, red, and therefore are truly able to reproduce colors accurately, eg, a red coral will look red, green will be green, etc. LEDs are narrow-spectrum emitters, even those considered 'white'. Adding the warm white is what brings the Razor far and above what the competition can do in terms of color. This is because the Razor has a much broader spectrum and only having sharp peaks at a few of the wave lengths.

Chris
CoralVue"
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on December 09, 2012, 07:28:30 PM
Humm, might have to shove some 3k warm whites on to my build then may go for 4-5 x 10-20w ones thats along side the 5 x 50w 4000lm each leds any thoughts ?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on December 09, 2012, 07:43:58 PM
If possible you could probably replace around half of the CW chips with WW ones, similar to how the razor is 50/50. Not are WW chips are created equal though, so it would be good to see a spectral plot of the chip if you use one. If you use WW, you have to increase the amount of blue light you use to compensate, if you like the 14k and above look.

The best way to describe what it does visually, is when you switch between a "cool" color preset, to a "warm" one on an hdtv.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 09, 2012, 08:10:19 PM

"Originally Posted by chris@CoralVue 
I don't understand why there would be doubts about the warm white LEDs. The use of warm white LEDs is necessary for proper color rendition. Metal Halide and Fluorescent light sources both cover broad spectrums in cyan, green, amber, orange, red, and therefore are truly able to reproduce colors accurately, eg, a red coral will look red, green will be green, etc. LEDs are narrow-spectrum emitters, even those considered 'white'. Adding the warm white is what brings the Razor far and above what the competition can do in terms of color. This is because the Razor has a much broader spectrum and only having sharp peaks at a few of the wave lengths.

Chris
CoralVue"

Critical thinking compels me to question why a sales rep would tout the features of a product he sells. I'm not going to say what kind of lighting corals like best, all I can do is comment on how my corals have fared under the lights I currently run, and based off of the colors and growth, I can say confidently that they love the setup.  Keep in mind that the purpose of this forum is to provide fellow aquarists an easy outlet for its users to help one another. I highly value the many years of experience many of you offer, but at the same time I like competition and improvement. The Jarduino obviously allows you to easily configure your lighting however you like, and as the saying goes, the proof is in the pudding, so why not post what colors you run, and post up unaltered pics of your tank under said lighting, then users can decide what they would prefer to run over their own tanks? In other words, let's help each other...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on December 09, 2012, 08:50:12 PM
Here is a somewhat good comparison of what Warm White and other colors can do. This is my temp lighting until the Jarduino fixture is built.

The left side uses 6500k Neutral Whites and 3500k Warm Whites with no Cool Whites. It also adds 3 cyan 490nm, 3 red 660nm, and 6 violet 420nm. 120w

The right side is my first DIY fixture. It uses 6 Cree Cool Whites, 3 Cree Neutral Whites, and 3 Cree Warm Whites. Inclues 2 green, 2 cyan, 2 red, and 4 violet. 180w

Based on my personal preference, I like the left side a bit better. It just has that extra warmth that I like, even though colors pop on both sides of the tank. The jarduino will expand upon this type of lighting, with full control of the separate colors for me over a new fixture. I can only control 2 channels as of now.

(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/bhazard/IMG_20121209_153333.jpg)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on December 09, 2012, 08:53:42 PM
no point in posting any more of mine yet, softies are doing great but most sps are all bleached, all started happening from around may i am leading to the 0 nitrates from research i have been doing they need trace nutrients for their own algae that they feed of that in turn feeds from nitrates hence the problem. Never had the leds up and running during that time grrrr
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on December 09, 2012, 09:22:53 PM
Ah thats what i was going to ask, the 3w leds when bought do they come with a plastic cover over the emitter or lens ?

On a few of mine something is slightly hanging down from the 3w leds only have 8 of them like and there uv, violet and red, ##
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Baietz on December 13, 2012, 05:31:44 PM
because they choose 9 royal blue and 9 regular blue? not convenient 18 royal blue?

Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on December 14, 2012, 06:23:33 AM
Quick question: if I use a 16 channel sainsmart relay board and an arduino mega, both supplied by seperate power supplies, do I need to connect a common negative gnd between both boards?
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on December 15, 2012, 10:32:33 AM
To anyone using the 16 channel sainsmart relay board, yes even on separate power supplies a negative is required between the gnd.
Also the relays require a gnd to trigger them so instruction to the pins should be low for on and high for off.
This doesn't matter because the relay outputs have normally open and normally closed contacts.
This only matters if you require some fail safe position, ie power to relay off allows closed contacts to run a pump or heater.
Hope this helps someone because the relay board only comes with a circuit board layout and not a description of how it works.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on December 15, 2012, 05:11:39 PM
Spot on budd, yeah i cam across this when the arduino was on the relay was off and when the arduino was off the relay was on not good if you have a arduino failure need to go in to the sketch and swap the value from low to high
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on December 16, 2012, 11:13:07 AM
Today I swapped a dodgy 2560 mega to a new one. But I have a problem with the RTC.
It program's and displays the correct time but it keeps switching to a non sensical time and date then back to normal again.
I'm using the jarduino code modified for me by Jamie.
Could this be a code issue?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 16, 2012, 02:03:51 PM
Today I swapped a dodgy 2560 mega to a new one. But I have a problem with the RTC.
It program's and displays the correct time but it keeps switching to a non sensical time and date then back to normal again.
I'm using the jarduino code modified for me by Jamie.
Could this be a code issue?

No.
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on December 16, 2012, 02:35:16 PM
Any other ideas? I've changed it for a new RTC and still the same.
Is it a Mega R3 problem?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on December 16, 2012, 08:25:34 PM
I would look  at the connections to the rtc if you soldered
Check them out almost every rtc problem is something to do
With the rtc break out board or soldering if had to move your
Wiring around you might of weakend the solder joint
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on December 16, 2012, 08:42:53 PM
I thought that too, so I fitted a different RTC and same result.
I have another issue so I'm going to undo some changes and retrace my steps
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on December 18, 2012, 04:37:57 PM
I thought that too, so I fitted a different RTC and same result.
I have another issue so I'm going to undo some changes and retrace my steps

Have you found anything out yet about the rtc problem you have been having?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on December 18, 2012, 04:40:44 PM
Hi Jamie

Looking for a little help please.
Previously I have had v1.1 working, I then donated and now I have the v1.2 beta 1 version working fine, however if I try to compile v1.2 beta2, I get the following error.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers
Steve
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on December 18, 2012, 04:45:40 PM
Try copying over the ITDB02 library into where the new 1.2 installation is. I personally have had more success with the UTFT library, despite being slower.
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on December 18, 2012, 04:55:41 PM
Not sorted it yet but I haven't had time.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 18, 2012, 05:26:02 PM
Hi Jamie

Looking for a little help please.
Previously I have had v1.1 working, I then donated and now I have the v1.2 beta 1 version working fine, however if I try to compile v1.2 beta2, I get the following error.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers
Steve

That version uses the ITDB02_graph16 library.  Your compiling errors seem to indicate that you don't have it.  I attached it below.  Simply unzip it and place it in the Arduino Libraries folder (Make sure the Arduino IDE is closed).  Once it's in there, restart the Arduino IDE & re-upload.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Valld on December 19, 2012, 08:10:56 AM
Just a small consultation guys. Parts started to arrive already and so are the problems... Yesterday I receive the TFT display, but its cracked in one of the edges, don't have the board yet to test it, but start searching for a spare and found this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-2inch-320x240-Touch-LCD-A-3-2-LCM-TFT-Display-Module-Graphic-Screen-Panel-/251040106962?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a732809d2

Please take a look and tell me if it's compatible with the Jarduino, it looks like it has integrated LCD shield - I guess from the photos and the 5 volts in the pins description table. The price is also great and the seller rating is good. Just let me know if its going to work in the Jarduino straight away, I would like to order 2.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on December 19, 2012, 03:41:48 PM
Use this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-2-TFT-LCD-Shield-Touch-Screen-w-TF-SD-Reader-for-Arduino-Mega-2560-A080-/251117559109?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a77c5dd45

It is better quality than the Sainsmart one I used which also works, but broke within 2 days.
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on December 19, 2012, 09:29:23 PM
I resolved the clock issue.
It was a wiring change I made to a relay input wire by mistake. Unrelated to an RTC fault. The RTC behaviour was caused by some sort of voltage issue.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on December 20, 2012, 10:42:25 AM
Hi Jamie

Looking for a little help please.
Previously I have had v1.1 working, I then donated and now I have the v1.2 beta 1 version working fine, however if I try to compile v1.2 beta2, I get the following error.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers
Steve

That version uses the ITDB02_graph16 library.  Your compiling errors seem to indicate that you don't have it.  I attached it below.  Simply unzip it and place it in the Arduino Libraries folder (Make sure the Arduino IDE is closed).  Once it's in there, restart the Arduino IDE & re-upload.

Thanks Jamie the new library worked.

I have one remaining issue to resolve.  The drivers for my R Blues , Blues and UV's are Recom RCD24's and when I dim to 0 they are fully on and when I dim to 255 they are fully off.  To complicate things further my White driver is a Sure electronics module and dims correctly.

Am I correct in thinking the following mod should fix my problem.

line 143
boolean RECOM_RCD = false; //(changed from True)

and line 1123
if (RECOM_RCD) {
    s_out = sled_out;
    b_out = bled_out;
    w_out = wled_out;
    rb_out = rbled_out;
    r_out = rled_out;
    uv_out = uvled_out;
    moon_out = moonled_out;
  } else {
    s_out = 255 - sled_out;
    b_out = 255 - bled_out;
    w_out = wled_out; //(copied from the if Recom is true section)
    rb_out = 255 - rbled_out;
    r_out = 255 - rled_out;
    uv_out = 255 - uvled_out;
    moon_out = 255 - moonled_out;
  }

Ive not got my driver box with me so won't be able to try it until this evening
Cheers
Steve
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 20, 2012, 07:03:14 PM
That ought to do it.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: michaellee64 on December 20, 2012, 09:25:06 PM
Hi, New to this forum, 11 years reef tanks! I have ordered all of my parts for the controller and would like to donate so I can start with the latest version. Where do I start?

Thanks,  Michael
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 20, 2012, 10:22:18 PM
Hi, New to this forum, 11 years reef tanks! I have ordered all of my parts for the controller and would like to donate so I can start with the latest version. Where do I start?

Thanks,  Michael

:welcome: Good to have another experienced reefer aboard!

For the Jarduino, you should start here: http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/ (http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/)

Download all the beta files so you have all the necessary libraries.  Follow instruction in the User Manual for file placement.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on December 21, 2012, 12:08:58 AM
That ought to do it.

And it did ! :93:

Thanks Jamie
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 21, 2012, 10:36:49 PM
Just got a delivery.  Check it out:

(https://graph.facebook.com/676834965663771/picture)

For those who don't know what they're looking at, those are four different embedded sensor circuits from Atlas-Scientific (http://atlas-scientific.com/). Top left is for ORP, bottom left is for pH, Top right is Conductivity, and Bottom right is Disolved Oxygen.

So, just another thing I'll be working on.  But before I can, if any of you know of a good yet inexpensive source of probes, please share!

Also, I think the best controller is one that actually takes care of a problem as it arises, rather than simply measuring the parameters and dosing on a schedule.  That is, for an action (ie - low water temperature), there's a consequential reaction (ie - turn the heater on).  So with that said, I would also like everyone's input as to what they think is the best way of raising and lowering these four parameters.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: isacco on December 21, 2012, 11:14:26 PM
Just got a delivery.  Check it out:

(https://graph.facebook.com/676834965663771/picture)

For those who don't know what they're looking at, those are four different embedded sensor circuits from Atlas-Scientific (http://atlas-scientific.com/). Top left is for ORP, bottom left is for pH, Top right is Conductivity, and Bottom right is Disolved Oxygen.

So, just another thing I'll be working on.  But before I can, if any of you know of a good yet inexpensive source of probes, please share!

Also, I think the best controller is one that actually takes care of a problem as it arises, rather than simply measuring the parameters and dosing on a schedule.  That is, for an action (ie - low water temperature), there's a consequential reaction (ie - turn the heater on).  So with that said, I would also like everyone's input as to what they think is the best way of raising and lowering these four parameters.

 :whoo:
vity
So should I let some BNC connectors on the rear pannel? I think I would just in case.
The pH will be tank and reactor, I mean two probes? For me is realy the one I´m interested in, and maybe ORP, the DO probes are too expensive.
Anyway, I will order the stamps for pH. The probes I use are from this ebay, never had a problem so far:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160796514690?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Is there any chance to control Vortech pumps in the future?

Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on December 22, 2012, 12:05:45 PM
Any reason why I get this on my screensaver?
It's not on any other screen mode of the jarduino
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 22, 2012, 09:11:03 PM
First time I've seen that one.  Anyone else have that issue?
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on December 23, 2012, 10:24:33 PM
After tinkering today it's gone!
Perhaps I disturbed something last time
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on December 24, 2012, 06:47:16 AM
Anyone know what state an output pin is on the start up of the arduino just before the program loads?
It's important as after a power failure I don't want my doser operating and giving my tank an extra shot of nopox!
The sainsmart 16 channel relay board uses a low signal to switch the relays on.
Once I know I'll configure the relay outputs accordingly. (Normally open/closed etc).
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: isacco on December 24, 2012, 11:05:24 AM
I think they are default input pins and you have to set them as output with pinMode(pin,OUTPUT).
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on December 24, 2012, 12:13:37 PM
Sorry I meant what state would any pin be in if they were set as an output?
Example: software sets the output high but for the few moments the arduino is booting and loading the software after applying power, is this pin going to start high or start low and switch to high once the software loads?
My aim is to set whatever the arduino starts at so there is no switching once the software loads.
Hope that makes sense!
Otherwise, after a power fail my relay will switch and cause my doser to briefly work on return of power.
I want to build in as much safety as I can!
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on December 24, 2012, 02:50:23 PM
Good news for anyone contemplating extending the LCD screen away from the arduino
Two 1ft long IDE extension cables joined together work ok!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 24, 2012, 03:50:48 PM
They should all be low (off) except pin 13, which will alternate between High and Low a few times during startup.
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on December 25, 2012, 10:43:49 AM
Low is the signal for the sainsmart relays to be "on".
I may have to buy a relay that low is "off" to save any start up dosing issues.
Anyone recommend one?
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on December 27, 2012, 06:32:18 PM
I found a dodgy solder joint on my RTC today. I noticed when I moved the wires to it. Now re soldered.
I cut the LCD TFT into the front of my aquarium cupboard today.
Doser left to connect. It is going to plug straight into an iec socket and work from Jamie's modified timer.
20 seconds will give a 10ml dose of nopox.
I'm waiting for a momentary switch in the post. It is to prime the doser.

The skimmer waste bottle has a float switch and a jack plug.
If the switch operates or jack is unplugged, then the skimmer and doser will not work.
I'll test the doser with containers of water until I'm sure it works correctly.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 27, 2012, 08:48:45 PM
Very nice bud.
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on December 27, 2012, 08:55:39 PM
Very nice bud.
Cheers, but it'd be nothing without your software and all the mods you did for me. Thanks again!

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/28/za8yqemu.jpg)
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on December 27, 2012, 09:21:06 PM
Mmmmm thought it was too easy!
When my timer switched on my sump light tonight, the screen went blank.
Timers still worked as my lights each went off on time, but I had to do a reset to get the screen back.
Maybe emf from light switching on.
Doesn't do it when light goes off.
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on December 28, 2012, 09:23:02 AM
After a bit more testing I think it is the sump lamp causing the problem. It's when it strikes. Its a small flourescent lamp. I think high frequency rather than standard high voltage ballast.The ribbon cable must be picking up the rf.
I think I might be changing the sump light to led!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: opentoideas on December 29, 2012, 07:24:03 PM
Hi,

just joined up to say thank you for this!

i am putting together an LED setup to replace a dimmable set of T5 tubes i did a few years ago.

for that project i wanted sunrise / sunset dimming and ended up having to do it myself with a Vasleman USB i/o board and it was a pain to get right and as it was running on a PC so inefficient and not that reliable.

when i came across JArduino i have to say it was a great relief :)

i now have all the bits together and have started putting it together.

it was all going well and i have had the controller up and running, everything tested out and the last step was adding the DC/DC stepdown converters.

i initially set the one powering the arduino at 10.5V  but the chip next to the DC in (which i presume is the voltage regulator)  was getting hotter than i was happy with so i reduced the supply to 7.5V which seems better.

unfortunately this is when i noticed that the clock reset to 00:00.

so for some reason my RTC is not working and i am stumped.

i have checked all connections and the RTC is a pre assembled module as shown in the manual.

the battery is good and thats me out of ideas  :41:

i have added RTClib and tried to test the RTC but as far as the arduino is concerned its not connected.

from what i have read these RTC modules seem to be almost indestructible and all failures are assembly errors but as mine was ready made and working i think it more likely that i have damaged it but is there any other way to check?

i will get another one ordered but was hoping that someone on here might be able to help.

thanks for all of the work so far and hopefully i will be back on track soon


Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 29, 2012, 07:57:35 PM
First off, a very warm welcome to UKR.  Glad to have you aboard! 

As far as this goes:
...i initially set the one powering the arduino at 10.5V  but the chip next to the DC in (which i presume is the voltage regulator)  was getting hotter than i was happy with so i reduced the supply to 7.5V which seems better.

unfortunately this is when i noticed that the clock reset to 00:00....

It sounds like you may have already figured out the problem.  Too low of an input voltage to the Arduino.  Maybe you have an extra 12V AC/DC adapter laying around?  If so, you should try it.  That is, a dedicated power supply to the Arduino (if you can't get the DC stepdown working properly).  I generally recommend 12V, 2A.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: opentoideas on December 30, 2012, 01:34:03 AM
thank you for the warm welcome.

i thought it may be that but the first thing i tried was to go back to USB power and bump back up to 12V but have not had any response from the RTC since.

the 5V line on the arduino is spot on 5V on external power wherever i set the DC input but using USB power it drops to 4.6V so if anything it was getting better voltage.

have tried disconnecting the RTC including battery to see if that may kick it back to life but it does not seem to be giving any signal to the arduino.

i think i will have to dig the scope out if the garage and check for signs of life that way.

it was all going so well i knew something had to go wrong  :D
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: michaellee64 on December 30, 2012, 06:05:37 AM
 New to this forum! I have all my hardware and a password, soooooo..... Is it possible to use the Iboard Pro... or do I need to order the Mega 2560?

Thanks,  Michael
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: michaellee64 on December 30, 2012, 07:48:24 AM
Ok.... Got the V1.2 Beta loaded onto the Iboard Pro, and used this screen http://imall.iteadstudio.com/display/tft-lcm/im120419005.html, The display shows the program but I have no touch capabilites with it? I can touch it once and it goes to the setup screen, and that is where it sticks. I have no control of it from that point on. Does that mean that this board is not compatible with the program?
Thanks,  Michael
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on December 30, 2012, 03:01:05 PM
Ok.... Got the V1.2 Beta loaded onto the Iboard Pro, and used this screen http://imall.iteadstudio.com/display/tft-lcm/im120419005.html, The display shows the program but I have no touch capabilites with it? I can touch it once and it goes to the setup screen, and that is where it sticks. I have no control of it from that point on. Does that mean that this board is not compatible with the program?
Thanks,  Michael

That's the right screen.  I've never heard of the "Iboard Pro," but since you got it to load, then most likely it's compatible.  Did you clear the EEPROM?  The touch screen will not function correctly with the Jarduino if there are incorrect/unexpected values in memory.  Also, did you try using any of the example sketches included in the included touch library?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on December 30, 2012, 03:51:30 PM
This one Jamie

http://imall.iteadstudio.com/development-platform/arduino/arduino-compatible-mainboard/iboard-pro.html

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: michaellee64 on December 30, 2012, 09:51:37 PM
If I try to load the touch calibration... I get an error "ITDB02" does not name a type. The board is powered with 12vdc, and I have a Foca board for uploading the sketch. It is set at 3.3vdc which is what the board requires. The screen is very dim, which leads me to believe that the pin outs are different. If I can't use this board for now, it's not that big of a deal as I'll just order the Mega 2560. I was just trying to get around having to install an RTC and also having the cababilites of wifi and ethernet. It will be the way to go in the future... but for now it's way over my head.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: opentoideas on December 31, 2012, 12:49:58 PM
If I try to load the touch calibration... I get an error "ITDB02" does not name a type. The board is powered with 12vdc, and I have a Foca board for uploading the sketch. It is set at 3.3vdc which is what the board requires. The screen is very dim, which leads me to believe that the pin outs are different. If I can't use this board for now, it's not that big of a deal as I'll just order the Mega 2560. I was just trying to get around having to install an RTC and also having the cababilites of wifi and ethernet. It will be the way to go in the future... but for now it's way over my head.

you will need to make a few changes...

note the addition if "16" in the second line - ITDB02_Graph16.h

also swap the commented lines for the shields. the default is for standard and the next one is for the mega. as this board is based around the mega i would try that.

this is an interesting board for the reasons you mention so if it can be made to work it may be a bonus

hope this helps. (edited code below for reference)


// Remember to change the next line if you are using as 16bit module!
#include <ITDB02_Graph16.h>
#include <ITDB02_Touch.h>

// Declare which fonts we will be using
extern uint8_t SmallFont[];

// Uncomment the next two lines for the ITDB02 Shield
//ITDB02        myGLCD(19,18,17,16);
//ITDB02_Touch  myTouch(15,10,14,9,8);

// Uncomment the next two lines for the ITDB02 Mega Shield
ITDB02        myGLCD(38,39,40,41);   // Remember to add ASPECT_16x9 if you are using an ITDB02-3.2WC!
ITDB02_Touch  myTouch(6,5,4,3,2);


there is a comment in the review of this board about the screen being dim with the foca connected as it drags the 5v for the screen down to 3v. dont know if you disconnected it after uploading but it may help.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: michaellee64 on January 03, 2013, 02:32:55 AM
It turns out that the board doesn't have a current limiting resistor built into the supply power to the display, so it got the full 12vdc  voltage from my power supply instead of the 5vdc and burnt out the display. Waiting to hear back from Iteadstudio about replacing it. 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: opentoideas on January 03, 2013, 02:30:30 PM
It turns out that the board doesn't have a current limiting resistor built into the supply power to the display, so it got the full 12vdc  voltage from my power supply instead of the 5vdc and burnt out the display. Waiting to hear back from Iteadstudio about replacing it.

ouch, that sucks.

hope they get it sorted for you. sounds like a bit of a mess for a board that should just work.

do you know if its an isolated problem with yours or a design mistake?

@TheDOdblG

- i saw in another thread you were hoping someone would add green to the mix as you were pointing out that the colour possibilities become almost endless. not sure if anyone else has done it but i think i will be doing something similar.

as mine is for a freshwater planted tank i am just using 50W white LED's  and some 3W blue for moonlights

the aesthetics of the colour have had me a little worried though and i have a spare mounting point on each heat-sink (they came pre drilled for one 50W and 2 small stars)

what i am planning now is to have on each heat-sink 1x50W white, 1x 10W RGB and 1x 3W blue for moonlights

i am hopeful that the RGB will give me a load of flexibility to "tune" the colour of the tank to look its best.

any comments or suggestions are most welcomed

Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on January 05, 2013, 11:10:41 AM
Anyone know where I can source a SHIELDED ide extension cable?
My extended screen setup is suffering a bit of graphic corruption now and then.
I think it's from the relays switching inside my controller.
I could try tin foil but I'd rather a proper solution!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on January 05, 2013, 06:26:45 PM
I know it is ugly to look at but have you tried the foil? Could be a fast and cheap way to test it out and see if a shielded cable would fix it.
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on January 05, 2013, 06:37:10 PM
I'd have to tape it too to prevent shorts.
There is a shielded ribbon available but I'm not sure what to buy, plus I'd need to terminate the ends properly.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on January 05, 2013, 09:18:37 PM
Hi Jamie

A quick question if you don't mind.

Regarding the auto feeder detailed on page 3, are the pads circled yellow where you connect the 5v enable signal from the Mega ? I intend to continue running my feeder using batteries and when they are connected I measure 3v between the two pads circled.  If I push the feed switch on the feeder this temporarily drops to 0v whilst the motor rotates.  Just need to know where to connect mega pin 50 to.

Cheers
Steve
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on January 05, 2013, 11:02:09 PM
I'm looking to obtain some ferrishield which is a sticky plastic shielding that can be wrapped around flat ribbon cables. Only problem it is a USA product. I've sent an email to mouser electronics uk. They sell other ferrishield products
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 06, 2013, 09:07:05 PM
Hi Jamie

A quick question if you don't mind.

Regarding the auto feeder detailed on page 3, are the pads circled yellow where you connect the 5v enable signal from the Mega ? I intend to continue running my feeder using batteries and when they are connected I measure 3v between the two pads circled.  If I push the feed switch on the feeder this temporarily drops to 0v whilst the motor rotates.  Just need to know where to connect mega pin 50 to.

Cheers
Steve

Man, I did that so long ago.  Ok, let's figure it out:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171745730093/picture)

Ok, so you could continue to use batteries, just make sure you don't connect power to it then, otherwise you will most likely blow up the batteries.  No Hollywood explosion or anything like that, but you probably don't want battery acid leaking into your tank (unless you want to quickly lower your pH lol).

So for what you want, all you need to do is one of two things:
1) You could hook it up like me, and use an NPN transistor (just like the ones I used for the fans minus the diode), and hook the transistor up to one of the solder joints, and the other solder joint to Arduino GND.
OR
2) You could probably skip the NPN transistor altogether and simply connect the digital pin to one of the solder joints circled in yellow, and connect the other one to Arduino GND.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SteveT on January 06, 2013, 11:05:08 PM
Hi Jamie

A quick question if you don't mind.

Regarding the auto feeder detailed on page 3, are the pads circled yellow where you connect the 5v enable signal from the Mega ? I intend to continue running my feeder using batteries and when they are connected I measure 3v between the two pads circled.  If I push the feed switch on the feeder this temporarily drops to 0v whilst the motor rotates.  Just need to know where to connect mega pin 50 to.

Cheers
Steve

Man, I did that so long ago.  Ok, let's figure it out:
(https://graph.facebook.com/676171745730093/picture)

Ok, so you could continue to use batteries, just make sure you don't connect power to it then, otherwise you will most likely blow up the batteries.  No Hollywood explosion or anything like that, but you probably don't want battery acid leaking into your tank (unless you want to quickly lower your pH lol).

So for what you want, all you need to do is one of two things:
1) You could hook it up like me, and use an NPN transistor (just like the ones I used for the fans minus the diode), and hook the transistor up to one of the solder joints, and the other solder joint to Arduino GND.
OR
2) You could probably skip the NPN transistor altogether and simply connect the digital pin to one of the solder joints circled in yellow, and connect the other one to Arduino GND.

Thanks Jamie
When I look at my PCB, the bottom pad circled is one side of a switch and is connected to the supply (battery)   -ve.  The upper pad is connected to the other side of the switch and has 3v on it.  When the switch is pressed the 3v is tied to GND and the motor turns.  Does this sound correct ?
I am a little apprehensive about conecting the ouput from the Mega to a pad that is already at 3v

Ps congrats on the pending new arrival !

Cheers
Steve
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 06, 2013, 11:51:06 PM
 Thanks. And yeah, that sounds right. You should then be able to feed by either pressing the button on the feeder or via the Jarduino, just like me.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: grenadateam on January 07, 2013, 08:56:41 PM
hello my name is Julian I of France and I am new in arduino
I have managed to install the jarduino and I would like to know what must be done to mount  LEDs with a dimmer my  Meanwell HLN60H36B?
and I have a problem with my clock it lead 5 minutes / 5 minutes
thank you again for your program
Julien
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Valld on January 08, 2013, 07:09:39 AM
Happy New Year everyone!

For the wave maker I decided to go with the cheap 5v relay modules widely available on e-bay (1.50$ each) - please see the attachment. Can someone please help me with the wiring of the relay to my Mega 2560 and the power outlet, I don't want to make a mistake while playing with 220v.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on January 09, 2013, 03:57:02 PM
hi I will give it a shot for ya
Look at the pic you posted on the left side you have pins. That is the arduino side, the right side has screw downs that is the controlled side
the pins on the left are 5v to power the relay gnd is ground for that 5v and control which is where you would put the wire from the arduino that is doing the triggering pin 42 for the wave maker would hook to the control pin. on the controlled side(the right side) you have 3 screw terminals the center is probally COM or common the other two will be NO (normal open) and NC (normal closed) if you want the item (wavemaker) to turn ON when pin 42 sends a signal to the relay you would use the NO so the normal open will close when it receives a signal if you want some thing to stay on till it gets a signal use the NC it will keep your item (wavemaker running constantly till it receives a signal). And don't For get about COM. I was taught that you only use relays to switch the ground side of the circut. I have found it to be a good practice when using relays to buy one of those $1.50 brown extension cords and look at the cord you will see one has ribs on it the other side is smooth cut the cord on the ribbed side (only) expose a small bit of the copper wire on both sides of the cut. Now place one end in COM and place the other end in NO plug your heater,pump,light,and electric device into the female end and plug the other end goes in to the wall. Nothing happened when you did that because the arduino didn't send a signal down the line from pin 42 soon as it does your device will turn on, then there is normal and latching and lock.. I am no electrician so take all this with a bit of common sens and try it out on a cheap lamp first if blow a bulb no biggie but don't blow up a pump or any thing else including your self. Relays can be allot of fun to use to make thing happen you can make them remote control also my using a small super hydrodine board and a bit of solder
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on January 09, 2013, 05:08:29 PM
Bad advice switching "ground" if its a mains device.
You always switch the live conductor because it could mean that item it controls is still live even when off.
Not that it would make a difference to operating it, more a shock risk.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on January 09, 2013, 05:44:21 PM
after a  bit of time to think on that I was wrong. it would be better to break the pos side specialy around all the water.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 09, 2013, 06:06:04 PM
If you go back to page 1 of this thread, you can see how I hooked mine up (where it's the Live wire that the relay "controls").  Even though I used SSR's, hooking up the mechanical type isn't all that much different.  You'll have to get your colors of the AC wires straight, since US and the Europe use different color codes. 

For the US, generally the color codes along with common descriptors:
   Green is GND (Earth/Ground)
   White is Common/Return/Neutral (or - Negative)
   Black is Live/Hot (or + positive).

I'm fairly sure that for most of Europe, generally:
   Green with a yellow stripe is GND (Earth/Ground)
   Blue is Common/Return/Neutral (or - Negative)
   Brown is Live/Hot (or + positive).

Feel free to post up your countries AC color codes if they are different than what I listed...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Valld on January 09, 2013, 08:01:44 PM
Thanks for your input guys.

I'm going to embed the relay into the power outlet (like Jamie did in his setup)

I'm fairly sure that for most of Europe, generally:
   Green with a yellow stripe is GND (Earth/Ground)
   Blue is Common/Return/Neutral (or - Negative)
   Brown is Live/Hot (or + positive).

Feel free to post up your countries AC color codes if they are different than what I listed...


That is correct Jamie, and my pump has only 2 wires - Brown (Live) and Blue (Neutral/Negative). So as I understand it, I'm not touching the Ground and the Neutral. I need to connect the Brown wire to the middle port of the relay and the "Lower" (as of the photo) or "opened" port must be connected to the outlet "Live" port. When the relay triggered it will "connect" the middle port to the "Lower" port closing the circuit and start the pump - in this way I will have the pump "Off" by default and "On" only when the relay triggered. If I want to make it the other way around, I need to connect the output of the relay to the "Upper" port.  In my setup I'm going to start the pump every six hours for one hour, total "ON" four hours a day, so I believe the first option is better for me.

Now for the Jarduino part - On the relay I have 3 ports - VCC, GND and IN, I have to connect the "VCC" to pin 5v on the Jarduino, "GND" to the Jarduino GND pin and "IN" to the Jarduino pin 42.

Please just confirm if I understand it correctly.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 09, 2013, 09:20:56 PM
...Now for the Jarduino part - On the relay I have 3 ports - VCC, GND and IN, I have to connect the "VCC" to pin 5v on the Jarduino, "GND" to the Jarduino GND pin and "IN" to the Jarduino pin 42.

Please just confirm if I understand it correctly.

Sounds to me like you have the AC side of things figured out.  The DC as well, but make sure that what your powering your Arduino with can handle adding relays.  That is, make sure you have at least 12VDC feeding your Arduino, rated for at least an Amp or two or higher (I'm just guestimating here since I really have no clue what else you have connected to your Arduino).  I'm telling you this because sometimes people add relays not realizing that relays require power too, and often don't supply their Arduino with an adequate power source.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Valld on January 09, 2013, 09:40:05 PM
Thanks Jamie,

I'm going to power the Arduino from my main (24v 10A) PS with a step down 24v to 12v 3A DC to DC converter (similar to yours) so the power will not be a problem.

Still waiting for a replacement of the 3.2 inch display which came broken. I also ordered (from different e-bay sellers) 2 2.4 (320x240) inch displays to have some spares. Everything else on the hardware part almost done or figured out. I will probably open a thread with some photos to share my experience and build specifics And ask questions if any, when all the hardware is here.

Thanks again for all your help!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 09, 2013, 10:03:15 PM
Alright, looking forward to seeing your thread!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on January 11, 2013, 01:29:30 PM
Alright, looking forward to seeing your thread!

Love Reading all These Threads I will Start One When i get my Finger out and start building
Very Soon :) Funds Been very bad the last 6 months but now can see the Light :) lol Sorry for that
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: reefcentral on January 11, 2013, 11:40:26 PM
Hello, I have almost all the components, I only need to touch the screen. I generated a doubt the "6 channel LED Arduino shield" will connect a power of 29.6 v but I find that all output channels 29.6 yield, not connected yet even the arduino PWM. Is this normal?

Apologies if I have typos, do not speak English and use a translator.

Best Regards
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on January 11, 2013, 11:53:35 PM
If there's no pwn feed then they go to full output

kev

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: reefcentral on January 12, 2013, 12:09:18 AM
I try to load the example in arduino FADE in PWM2 and I connect it to Ledsee to control channel 1 but just keeps coming at full voltage.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 12, 2013, 02:06:06 AM
Did you connect Arduino GND to it?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: reefcentral on January 12, 2013, 03:55:21 AM
GND and PWM2 both. The program that loads is the basic example that comes in the arduino software FADE. Am I doing something wrong?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Valld on January 12, 2013, 06:58:35 AM
I'm also a newbie in the PWM world, but let me try to explain what I've learnt. I think that your reading is correct, the PWM signal is not going to lower your voltage, it's going to tell the driver to stop and start rapidly the power to that channel - if I remember correctly the default for the Arduino PWM channels is 490 times per second. Depending on the PWM signal during one second you can have that 29,6v switched on between 1% and 100% of the time. It is not going to change the voltage or the current. I suggest that you connect to that channel 3-4 led's in series and try again for test. I'm pretty sure if you did all the connections correctly, it will dim while the voltage and current will stay stable. Just be sure to set the appropriate current for the led's you are using, and put at least 3 three watt led's in series, since the driver has minimum output voltage of 6 volts per channel.

I just need to mention one concern regarding this driver (I also purchased 2 of them). If you check the photos posted from member svyaz on page 46, look at the lower left side of the third photo from the top- there is a black jumper, at least looks like. On your driver (and the same is on mine) there is a small switch instead of the jumper and I'm not sure what is it for, what position we shall put it on. Maybe Vadim (svyaz) can help with this.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: scier choireil on January 12, 2013, 02:37:16 PM
hi folks completly new to the world of led so be gently on me, im going to be building an led setup just for my refuge so nothing large or spectactular just something that i can get my head around before maybe delving into something bigger for my DT. so basically i would like to know if this would work and what else apart from what i have listed would i need and will it be an easy project for me.

parts wise:

this is a cpu fan with heatsink so will be all in one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310352223946?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
for the led i will be using one large 50w led like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50W-50Watt-Bright-Hybird-White-Royal-Blue-LED-Light-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-/200877052437?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D4824162291475595266%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D190767850511%26
i believe i will need some sort of driver to run the led unit like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1500MA-50W-LED-Waterproof-Light-Electronic-Transformer-Power-Supply-Driver-/160917988875?pt=UK_Light_Bulbs&hash=item257775a60b

is there anything else i will need and is there a way i could run the fan of the driver?

thanks hope it made sense
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: reefcentral on January 12, 2013, 03:25:54 PM
I'm also a newbie in the PWM world, but let me try to explain what I've learnt. I think that your reading is correct, the PWM signal is not going to lower your voltage, it's going to tell the driver to stop and start rapidly the power to that channel - if I remember correctly the default for the Arduino PWM channels is 490 times per second. Depending on the PWM signal during one second you can have that 29,6v switched on between 1% and 100% of the time. It is not going to change the voltage or the current. I suggest that you connect to that channel 3-4 led's in series and try again for test. I'm pretty sure if you did all the connections correctly, it will dim while the voltage and current will stay stable. Just be sure to set the appropriate current for the led's you are using, and put at least 3 three watt led's in series, since the driver has minimum output voltage of 6 volts per channel.

I just need to mention one concern regarding this driver (I also purchased 2 of them). If you check the photos posted from member svyaz on page 46, look at the lower left side of the third photo from the top- there is a black jumper, at least looks like. On your driver (and the same is on mine) there is a small switch instead of the jumper and I'm not sure what is it for, what position we shall put it on. Maybe Vadim (svyaz) can help with this.


Thanks for the help, I'll try connecting 3 led 10w 9-11v 1a in series. regards
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: reefcentral on January 12, 2013, 04:27:27 PM
Well, I did the tests and actually works. But something happens to me my little knowledge is rare, only varies the voltage (light intensity) when current flow testing, if I do not contact the + and - of my tester, voltage is going to 100% (now with the LLED connected 26.6 v)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: reefcentral on January 12, 2013, 04:33:44 PM
I also wonder who will switch to black.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Valld on January 12, 2013, 09:24:25 PM
It's a 'CC' driver - constant current - the led's connected in series will draw only as much voltage as they are rated for the given current. Now try with 2 LEDs, or 1. The voltage should drop to ~18-20v for two and ~9-10v for 1 led. 3 LEDs by 10-11 volts is too much for one channel, you are only supplying 29.6v, and the driver is 'consuming' ~ 2v. 3x11+2 = 35v. You should never go too close to the limits. What are the led specs by the way?

 Please check your  ground connection on the driver side, from the photo it looks like its connected to the 5v, not the ground. It's not very clear on the photo.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Valld on January 12, 2013, 10:19:13 PM
And something else, I just saw on your photo that your current jumpers are not set correctly, to set the current you have only 3 options - for 0.35A you have to leave both jumpers open, for 0.75A you need to close the jumper marked '0.75A', for 1 A you must short both jumpers. What you did is you close the 1A jumper, which is not a valid setting, according to the diagram in the middle of the board for 1A you have to put a jumper on both 0.75 and 1A.

Did you try to play with that small switch next to channel 6? I still cannot figure out what is its purpose and the lack of any documentation for this driver is killing me.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: reefcentral on January 13, 2013, 12:13:49 AM
Thanks for the displayed message, the truth that am a newbie and had not played well the bridges, it seemed odd that the tension that I was half 700mA with this configuration. I was about to send a mail claiming to ledsee but now I realize that the problem was me. The GND is well connected but seeing the photo tricks.

The problem I had was the bad connection of the PIN, they made bad contact, is now working perfectly! Valld, thanks for contribution in the cause, and of course thanks to Jamie for impressive contribution!

I am anxiously waiting for my LCD to start charging JARDUINO.

regards
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: mrblah on January 13, 2013, 10:28:25 PM
So many wires going into my arduino now....

Anyone built a circuitboard for the jarduino setup ? 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 13, 2013, 10:48:22 PM
So many wires going into my arduino now....

Anyone built a circuitboard for the jarduino setup ?

With more changes coming, I wouldn't waste any time with that just yet.  Perhaps I'll make some PCB's once I decide on a final design for the software.  In the meantime, I think it's best if you make your board so you can change things around if/when needed.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: svyaz on January 14, 2013, 12:27:53 AM
Did you try to play with that small switch next to channel 6? I still cannot figure out what is its purpose and the lack of any documentation for this driver is killing me.
If ledsee arrayed on arduino pins Vin match this jumper is for voltage supply with fees ledsee
the arduino 5v converter. This is not right because there can be tension 35v and converter on the arduino will become very hot so this jumper is not needed more

(http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/5570/arduinomega.jpg)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: scier choireil on January 14, 2013, 01:19:46 AM
Anyone any suggestions will this work

hi folks completly new to the world of led so be gently on me, im going to be building an led setup just for my refuge so nothing large or spectactular just something that i can get my head around before maybe delving into something bigger for my DT. so basically i would like to know if this would work and what else apart from what i have listed would i need and will it be an easy project for me.

parts wise:

this is a cpu fan with heatsink so will be all in one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310352223946?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
for the led i will be using one large 50w led like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50W-50Watt-Bright-Hybird-White-Royal-Blue-LED-Light-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-/200877052437?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D4824162291475595266%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D190767850511%26
i believe i will need some sort of driver to run the led unit like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1500MA-50W-LED-Waterproof-Light-Electronic-Transformer-Power-Supply-Driver-/160917988875?pt=UK_Light_Bulbs&hash=item257775a60b

is there anything else i will need and is there a way i could run the fan of the driver?

thanks hope it made sense
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on January 14, 2013, 10:01:47 AM
Could do with a much bigger heatsink also that fan will made a hell of a noise. One of my heatsinks that i have a 50w led it is around 300mm x 150mm x 40mm and still gets hot without the use of a fan but the fan i use can be ran at 7v making it silent, you could try to get one of the big heat pipes type of duad core cpu heatsinks



Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: scier choireil on January 14, 2013, 11:28:31 AM
Cheers tang ill have a look on ebay now to see what i can turn up with. As regards to everything else is there anything else i need to get it running, also how cud i run the fan could i do this with the led power unit
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on January 14, 2013, 01:02:23 PM
Not really as that driver is near to 40v and the fan is 12v, just look on ebay for 12v adjustable power supplies
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: mrblah on January 14, 2013, 11:09:13 PM
So many wires going into my arduino now....

Anyone built a circuitboard for the jarduino setup ?

With more changes coming, I wouldn't waste any time with that just yet.  Perhaps I'll make some PCB's once I decide on a final design for the software.  In the meantime, I think it's best if you make your board so you can change things around if/when needed.

I was assuming with the newe baby that development was kinda stopping,  I'm not sure what if any new features I would even want right now
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 14, 2013, 11:18:50 PM
I hate quoting myself, but from another thread I said this:

The updates will be coming in batches.  Next release will be user-selectable display languages, 5 timers (thanks to isacco), and a number of improvements that I'll detail later on.  This next release will be the Final Release of Jarduino v1.2.  Beta versions of 1.3 will see the inclusion of sensors (pH, ORP, salinity (conductivity), and DO), pH controller for a Calcium Reactor, full Graphical version, and hopefully internet connectivity amoungst other things.  The order of introduction of these things are based off of user demand.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: scier choireil on January 15, 2013, 01:22:02 AM
Sorry for being a pain in the back side but any chance you could find one on ebay that would work as i aint got a clue. Thanks
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: reefcentral on January 15, 2013, 02:21:21 AM
About the WaveMaker, you can make changes at different times the intensity of the movement. In the ocean water movement changes constantly, even at night would be good for the fish is minimal movement to avoid stress. Is this possible? or do not consider it necessary.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 16, 2013, 01:50:18 AM
Sorry for being a pain in the back side but any chance you could find one on ebay that would work as i aint got a clue. Thanks

Where are you Geographically?  Maybe someone from your region could help you find something.  If you're from the US, I could probably help you narrow down some places from where you can buy some stuff.  What all do you need?  Arduino? LCD? RTC? Prototyping Boards?  I think someone in Portugal makes an all in one that may be compatible with the Jarduino, but I do not endorse it nor can I speak for the reliability or upgradeability of it.  I also think it's way over priced, but if you're still interested, here's a link (http://www.aqualed-light.com/?sec=home&id=1818).
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 16, 2013, 02:14:23 AM
About the WaveMaker, you can make changes at different times the intensity of the movement. In the ocean water movement changes constantly, even at night would be good for the fish is minimal movement to avoid stress. Is this possible? or do not consider it necessary.

Sure, it is possible.  However, I do not believe it is necessary.  Currently, it only controls AC powerheads by simply turning them on/off at user-defined intervals (just like the Hydor wavemaker does, not by controlling their speed).  So what would you do with this at night?  Simply turn them off?  I don't see an advantage to this at all, especially since a fish or other tank inhabitants may think that this off powerhead might be a safe place to take refuge, only to be turned into chopped fish food when they turn back on in the morning.  I've been running alternating mode for well over a year now, and I have yet to lose a fish or hear them complain about the nights being stressful on them.  I know ocean currents change, but I'm not aware of them getting weaker at night, rather I think the lunar cycle has a larger influence...  Anyway, implementing a reliable circuit to control the speed of AC motors would be expensive.  Probably close to the same price as it would be to purchase a Vortex or Tunze with wavemaker.  I could introduce coding to  control those particular powerheads (they are DC), but honestly it is not at the top of my to-do list. 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Valld on January 16, 2013, 04:12:26 AM
Did you try to play with that small switch next to channel 6? I still cannot figure out what is its purpose and the lack of any documentation for this driver is killing me.
If ledsee arrayed on arduino pins Vin match this jumper is for voltage supply with fees ledsee
the arduino 5v converter. This is not right because there can be tension 35v and converter on the arduino will become very hot so this jumper is not needed more

(http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/5570/arduinomega.jpg)

So basically this jumper, if shorted, is supplying the 'vin' pin with 6-30v (depending on the driver's imput voltage). But if you don't stack the driver board to the arduino mega, it doesn't really matter, correct? This is a good way to power your Arduino, if the imput voltage is 12v, now it makes sense to me.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Valld on January 16, 2013, 01:13:17 PM
Jamie, just a quick question: I finaly received the two LCD displays that I have ordered, one of them is the same like yours, with the CD card cage, 3.2 inch with HX8347-A controller and it started immediately with no problems with 1.2 b2. The other one is 2.4 inch (I wanted to have a smaller option in case the 3.2 doesn't fit in my enclosure) with 320x240 resolution, 40 pin connector and ILI9325 controller. When I connect the 2.4 inch it's showing white screen. I remember you explained somewhere how to switch between  ITDB02_Graph16 and UTFT libraries, but I cant find it anymore (this thread is becoming really huge!)

I started assembling my build and will be opening a new thread very soon, just wanted to start the 2.4 inch and then leave it on the shelf for future use.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 16, 2013, 02:19:22 PM
Jamie, just a quick question: I finaly received the two LCD displays that I have ordered, one of them is the same like yours, with the CD card cage, 3.2 inch with HX8347-A controller and it started immediately with no problems with 1.2 b2. The other one is 2.4 inch (I wanted to have a smaller option in case the 3.2 doesn't fit in my enclosure) with 320x240 resolution, 40 pin connector and ILI9325 controller. When I connect the 2.4 inch it's showing white screen. I remember you explained somewhere how to switch between  ITDB02_Graph16 and UTFT libraries, but I cant find it anymore (this thread is becoming really huge!)

I started assembling my build and will be opening a new thread very soon, just wanted to start the 2.4 inch and then leave it on the shelf for future use.

Well, your "quick question" can't really be answered with a "quick" response lol.  Anyway...

If you purchased the 2.4 inch module from ElecFreaks, then it should work fine with the ITDB02_graph16 library.  If you don't know who made it, it's still worth a try:

Using the latest release of Jarduino v1.2 Beta, on line 147 change it to this:
ITDB02 myGLCD(38,39,40,41,TFT01_24);


If that didn't work, you need to use the UTFT library.  After you make the necessary changes in the sketch so that you're using UTFT instead of ITDB02_graph16 (and you make sure you have the UTFT library in the Arduino libraries folder), the first thing you need to do is make sure the Arduino IDE is closed.  Then, you need to open a file in the UTFT library and modify it.  Open up the file called "memorysaver.h" and you need to comment out the disabling of two controllers by putting a // in front of the two ILI9325's (actually, you only need to do this to the controller you are using, but since I don't know, I'm saying to do it to both the ILI9325's). 

So for example, you do this:
//#define DISABLE_ILI9325C
//#define DISABLE_ILI9325D
Again, make sure you comment out BOTH the ILI9325's.  Once you make those changes, save it and close the file.  You can now open up Jarduino in the Arduino IDE and try different display modules for the 2.4 inch screens.

Try one of the following until you get one of them to work:
UTFT myGLCD(ITDB24,38,39,40,41);
UTFT myGLCD(ITDB24D,38,39,40,41);
UTFT myGLCD(ITDB24DWOT,38,39,40,41);
UTFT myGLCD(TFT01_24_16,38,39,40,41);
UTFT myGLCD(ILI9325C,38,39,40,41);
UTFT myGLCD(ILI9325D_16,38,39,40,41);
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on January 16, 2013, 04:56:41 PM
here is a pic of what I have done so far I am almost done with putting the arduino and proto boards in the box the plugs on the side are connected to the diffrent arduino pins for pwm and auto feed, temp, heater and chiller and have plenty of room left over on the plugs for more stuff. I still need to tidy up the wires a little and the black and red on the bottom right I have to solder on still for 3v + and - yet

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on January 16, 2013, 04:58:43 PM
looks good dale :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on January 16, 2013, 06:03:06 PM
Thanks hope it all works :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: mrblah on January 16, 2013, 10:22:23 PM
I hate quoting myself, but from another thread I said this:

The updates will be coming in batches.  Next release will be user-selectable display languages, 5 timers (thanks to isacco), and a number of improvements that I'll detail later on.  This next release will be the Final Release of Jarduino v1.2.  Beta versions of 1.3 will see the inclusion of sensors (pH, ORP, salinity (conductivity), and DO), pH controller for a Calcium Reactor, full Graphical version, and hopefully internet connectivity amoungst other things.  The order of introduction of these things are based off of user demand.

cool,  what does full graphical version mean?

I found a fix for my sump return feed mode, I dont use the wavemaker at all, so I put my sump on a relay that's on by default and set it up as one of the wavemaker channels,  works great, feed mode now turns off the sump return relay
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 16, 2013, 10:57:33 PM
Backgrounds, icons, more pictures, etc.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Valld on January 17, 2013, 07:13:19 AM

Well, your "quick question" can't really be answered with a "quick" response lol.  Anyway...

If you purchased the 2.4 inch module from ElecFreaks, then it should work fine with the ITDB02_graph16 library.  If you don't know who made it, it's still worth a try:

Using the latest release of Jarduino v1.2 Beta, on line 147 change it to this:
ITDB02 myGLCD(38,39,40,41,TFT01_24);


Thanks Jamie for all your help and sorry for 'eating' your time! It worked with the above change and Jarduino looks quite cute on the small screen.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: timsmithlx on January 18, 2013, 09:16:33 PM
hi guys,

fist off Jamie.. thanks for the CODE.. its amazing... iv been playing with it for a while...
one thing im stuck on though...

have you found a way to hook up the R3 Arduino Official ethernet sheild??

I mean in a physical way.. it uses pins 10/11/12/13.. used for the LED dimming.. is there a way to change these??

Thanks

Tim
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 18, 2013, 09:48:36 PM
hi guys,

fist off Jamie.. thanks for the CODE.. its amazing... iv been playing with it for a while...
one thing im stuck on though...

have you found a way to hook up the R3 Arduino Official ethernet sheild??

I mean in a physical way.. it uses pins 10/11/12/13.. used for the LED dimming.. is there a way to change these??

Thanks

Tim

Thanks for the praise...

I haven't had any time to "play around" with the ethernet shield yet (I will, I promise), but I'm fairly certain that the pins required by the ethernet shield are different for the MEGA.  If I'm not mistaken, the pins you mention are for the Uno and Duemilanove, and translate over to pins 50/51/52/53 for the MEGA, so I don't think it's directly stackable (which is good anyway as it wouldn't pass through headers needed for the touch screen LCD), however you can always run jumpers.  The Jarduino currently uses some of those pins (50-53), but whatever's on those pins can easily be assigned to free pins.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: timsmithlx on January 18, 2013, 10:34:01 PM
iv been playing around and found a couple of articles and so far not been able to get the ethernet sheild to work (on mega 2560) unless i use the above pins...

reading something about changing the SPI ports but it will still use up PWM pin 10.. a little frustrating..

thinking of doing something over bluetooth maybe to a local pc then uplaoding from that pc..

if you do have time give me a shout very willing to assit here and have a PRO coder about to start helping with me!

thanks  Tim
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: braecottage on January 19, 2013, 12:36:55 AM
Can anyone help?  I'm pulling my hair out!  When navigating through the menus some of the graphics are left behind resulting in messy overlapping screens  I've tried everything obvious - touchscreen connections, power on/off etc.

After a power on/off the screen does occasionally appear "clean" but after touching to navigate to the next screen it starts to become corrupt.  I thought it may have been some sort of interference, but have moved the screen away from other components with no joy.

I am using the Sainsmart ssd1289. 

Thanks in advance.

Kevin

Sorry - Ignore the above.  Its a faulty ribbon cable to the screen.  Works fine when directly into the shield.  It's late and my head hurts!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on January 19, 2013, 08:52:00 AM
lol hate it when that happens lol as long as you have sorted it or know the issue :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: braecottage on January 19, 2013, 04:14:39 PM
Can anyone help?  I'm pulling my hair out!  When navigating through the menus some of the graphics are left behind resulting in messy overlapping screens  I've tried everything obvious - touchscreen connections, power on/off etc.

After a power on/off the screen does occasionally appear "clean" but after touching to navigate to the next screen it starts to become corrupt.  I thought it may have been some sort of interference, but have moved the screen away from other components with no joy.

I am using the Sainsmart ssd1289. 

Thanks in advance.

Kevin


Sorry - Ignore the above.  Its a faulty ribbon cable to the screen.  Works fine when directly into the shield.  It's late and my head hurts!

UPDATE:  Same fault again this morning.  I've just spent an hour making up a new cable and I have the same fault as I did with my last cable - bad graphics when moving between screens.  Has anyone else had the same?  Could my screen be faulty?  Or has anyone had interference faults?

It doesn't seem to replicate the fault when plugged straight into the shield, but strange it's that the fault is the same with two different ribbon cables.  None of the connections are shorting in the cable, and all of the connections have continuity.
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on January 19, 2013, 04:21:08 PM
Mine does exactly the same.
So much I've had to return my setup to the same as yours. Directly onto the shield
I'm currently trying to locate an 80 wire, 40 pin cable that I can try.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: braecottage on January 19, 2013, 05:18:34 PM
Mine does exactly the same.
So much I've had to return my setup to the same as yours. Directly onto the shield
I'm currently trying to locate an 80 wire, 40 pin cable that I can try.
I'm totally stumped and am going to leave it for today.  My head is spinning http://ukreefs.com/Smileys/fantasticsmileys/confuse.gif but I'm interested that nitram38 is has the same symptoms and it's not just something at my end. 

I've also tried wrapping the whole ribbon in tin foil, fitted ferodo rings to the clock feed, and to the ribbon itself with no joy.

I'll try unplugging components tomorrow as a process of elimination - mains noise from hydor power heads maybe?  Any suggestions welcome!!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on January 19, 2013, 05:40:30 PM
Have you tried the eeprom wipe function before uploading the sketch ?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: braecottage on January 19, 2013, 05:46:11 PM
Have you tried the eeprom wipe function before uploading the sketch ?

Yes. I've always cleared it before uploading the sketch. I haven't reloaded the sketch recently as the screen works perfectly when straight into the shield (as it is now). Strange.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 19, 2013, 06:07:23 PM
Making your own cable for this generally ends with poor results. 40 pin male-female IDE cable is definitely the way to go.
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on January 19, 2013, 06:13:34 PM
It's not an EEPROM problem.
I've tried two different ide extension cables and I too foiled them.
When I move the connector close to the ribbon, the screen corrupts.
Maybe high resistance where the connector bites into the ribbon?
I bought both ready made
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on January 19, 2013, 06:59:39 PM
Like These :)

http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=785

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-inch-40-Pin-IDE-Male-Female-Ribbon-Extension-Cable-Made-in-USA-/271139324196?pt=Camera_Cables_Cords&hash=item3f2129c124


Simon
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 19, 2013, 08:38:16 PM
Search using this in eBay: "40-Pin Male to Female IDE Extension Cable"
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: isacco on January 20, 2013, 01:29:37 AM
I have the 40 pin cable male to female and still get's corrupted when no touching for long time. Is it posible to do a screen refresh from time to time.?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 20, 2013, 01:59:35 AM
I have the 40 pin cable male to female and still get's corrupted when no touching for long time. Is it posible to do a screen refresh from time to time.?

Yes, with the next release I will attempt to "fix" the obvious hardware issue with a software workaround.
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on January 20, 2013, 01:05:53 PM
Just a heads up.
I tested my extension leads on my spare setup.
It would seem to be a touch issue rather than a refresh one.
If I don't touch the screen it seems to be ok, even changing screens is ok.
But if I do multiple presses eg changing a time for instance, then the screen starts accumulating errors.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 20, 2013, 03:02:51 PM
There seems to be two issues surrounding screen corruption, and both are apparently hardware related. One is a screen corruption occurring after a period of time, the other while actually using it. The first is far more common, and can probably be alleviated via a coding workaround, whereas the second issue will have to be solved by investigating the hardware setup. The longer you extend the screen away from the Arduino, the more screen issues you're likely to witness. The good news is that no matter the number or severity of screen corruptions, you can take comfort in knowing that they have no effect on the performance of the controller whatsoever. That is, the controller will continue to operate as expected, regardless of what issues you may be experiencing with the screen.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: braecottage on January 20, 2013, 03:17:34 PM
There seems to be two issues surrounding screen corruption, and both are apparently hardware related. One is a screen corruption occurring after a period of time, the other while actually using it. The first is far more common, and can probably be alleviated via a coding workaround, whereas the second issue will have to be solved by investigating the hardware setup. The longer you extend the screen away from the Arduino, the more screen issues you're likely to witness. The good news is that no matter the number or severity of screen corruptions, you can take comfort in knowing that they have no effect on the performance of the controller whatsoever. That is, the controller will continue to operate as expected, regardless of what issues you may be experiencing with the screen.
Thanks Jamie

I'm currently fault finding with my setup.  It is most definitely hardware related, but I'm 95% sure it's not my ribbon cable.  It seems to be related to some sort of mains noise probably generated my my meanwell which is very close to my Arduino in my compact box arrangement.
I've just tried removing the jack plug from the Arduino and have powered it separately via USB.  The screen is behaves nearly perfectly.  If I then switch on the mains which powers the Meanwell and dc-dc converters etc. then the screen starts to become a little noisy, but not near as bad as it was when powered by one of my dc-dc converters.

My project box is too small to move the Arduino any further away from the power source, so maybe a rethink with a view to having the processor and screen in a small display box in turn feeding the larger box with the drivers PSU and mains components.

In the meantime it is always reassuring to know that no matter how fuzzy the screen gets it will always power the peripherals as expected!
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on January 20, 2013, 03:22:45 PM
I can agree that the screen corruption does not interfere with the arduino operation, but the screen will become unresponsive to touch and need a reset.
I'm considering using jumper ribbon cables if I can source them long enough as the increased diameter of the copper may reduce resistance on longer extensions
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: isacco on January 20, 2013, 07:57:27 PM

Yes, with the next release I will attempt to "fix" the obvious hardware issue with a software workaround.

It would be great , I don´t have a problem with it, just touch it and get´s back but a refresh function will save the touching every time i pass near the aquarium  :41:.
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on January 21, 2013, 12:33:38 PM
My. Attempts to block rf.
Aluminium duct tape plus insulation tape to prevent shorts
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on January 21, 2013, 12:35:21 PM
I think I'm gonna make an earthed metal shield between all mains and the arduino next
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 21, 2013, 03:22:48 PM
My. Attempts to block rf.
Aluminium duct tape plus insulation tape to prevent shorts

Did you connect the shielding to GND? Maybe try connecting it to both sides of the cable. Twisting cable also lowers interference. You could try separating the wires, then twist them together. You'll lose a little length, but if you can afford the loss, it may be worth the try. Maybe a twist combined with shielding?
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on January 21, 2013, 03:34:33 PM
I didn't get that far. I abandoned the cable for now as it still gave me screen errors on my spare set up using USB power.
I think the join between the connector and ribbon is to blame.
I'm going to get a new cable and fabricate a permanent metal screen
Some longer male/female jumpers may be better also as I suspect the copper will be larger and therefore lower resistance.
I've asked some eBay suppliers if they can make longer ones. Just waiting for a reply.
We will find an answer!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 21, 2013, 05:19:48 PM
We will find an answer!

That's the spirit!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: krustykrab on January 22, 2013, 07:43:48 PM
Hi everyone... I just donated to get Jarduino 1.2.... this is gonna be awesome! Looking to replace the lights in my turtles' aquarium. This is my first kick at arduino and I'm not a programmer so I just dove off the deep end. :) But I'm pretty good at soldering little components, so!

I'm going through the list to buy the components and noticed the iBoard Pro (http://imall.iteadstudio.com/development-platform/arduino/arduino-compatible-mainboard/iboard-pro.html) and that some of you have tried it with some issues. Have they been resolved? The board seems perfect for the Jarduino, it has RTC and the LCD driver built-in and future expansion with Ethernet and XBee pads.

Thanks! I'm looking forward to building this!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on January 22, 2013, 11:08:06 PM
Hi and a very warm welcome to you
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 22, 2013, 11:24:31 PM
...I'm going through the list to buy the components and noticed the iBoard Pro (http://imall.iteadstudio.com/development-platform/arduino/arduino-compatible-mainboard/iboard-pro.html) and that some of you have tried it with some issues. Have they been resolved? The board seems perfect for the Jarduino, it has RTC and the LCD driver built-in and future expansion with Ethernet and XBee pads.

Thanks! I'm looking forward to building this!
 
Welcome aboard bud, I'm sure someone will have an answer for you soon.  Looking forward to your build.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: daplatapus on January 23, 2013, 03:35:53 AM
Hey everyone. I've been lrking around, reading and I've got most of my equipment. Still waiting for a bit of it. But I've got my Mega 2560, the ITDB02 Mega shield v1.1 with the RTC and a 3.2"TFT screen from Itead Studio.
I've downloaded the Jarduino_v1_1 sketch and have it loaded up into my Mac IDE. I was able to change out the memory from 516 to 4096. I tried verifying it but I get an error in the writeAnything folder when trying to compile. The error I get is "expected initializer before '*' token"
I'm totally illiterate in this code, good with my hands, not so much with the writing :D
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 23, 2013, 04:54:03 AM
Welcome to UK reefs. Did you select the Arduino Mega in the Arduino IDE? Step by step Instructions are in the user manual located on the Jarduino download page, although they are explicitly written for PC, setup with a Mac should be similar.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: SeanGH on January 23, 2013, 05:30:17 AM
Hey all the good people. I am trying to get back on track with a build and have a friend who is also interested - so i better get my @ss into gear. I am wondering (this may be the wrong place to wonder this) is there a template for eagle or something which has the bare layout of Arduino Mega? I want to design a board around that so I can make an enclosure with an integrated electronics board.

I did a search but didn't download what I was actually looking for.

Thanks in advance.

p.s. Jamie - how's the little one :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: braecottage on January 23, 2013, 11:43:05 PM
We will find an answer!

I have tried different a PSU to eliminate noise - this made no difference.

After much head scratching - a possible (but not ideal!) workaround:

My build consists of the Arduino board, 2 Protoshields, then the ITB02 with the LCD at the top.  This is quite a hefty stack.

I decided to make up a couple of small ribbon cables (for pins 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and for power) in addition to the large 40pin extension I had already made originally for the screen.  I then left the screen plugged in directly to the shield, but extended both the ITB02 shield and the LCD away from the rest of the stack.  The screen works perfectly with no interference, lag or dodgy pixels :-)

This obviously requires a little more space behind the screen for mounting in a box but it seems to work.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: daplatapus on January 24, 2013, 05:12:16 AM
Welcome to UK reefs. Did you select the Arduino Mega in the Arduino IDE? Step by step Instructions are in the user manual located on the Jarduino download page, although they are explicitly written for PC, setup with a Mac should be similar.

Yup, I did. The error I get is before I even try to upload to the Arduino. It's  when I try to verify the sketch that it gives me the error. I've downloaded the manual and printed it so I can go through each step side by side with the real thing. Here's the actual error's I'm getting. Sorry if this is so long. I planned on donating for the 2 nd version, but I wanted to make sure the unit I had worked first :)





In file included from Jarduino_v1_1.pde:79:
writeAnything.h: In function 'int EEPROM_writeAnything(int, const T&)':
writeAnything.h:3: error: expected initializer before '*' token
writeAnything.h:6: error: 'p' was not declared in this scope
writeAnything.h: In function 'int EEPROM_readAnything(int, T&)':
writeAnything.h:12: error: 'byte' was not declared in this scope
writeAnything.h:12: error: 'p' was not declared in this scope
writeAnything.h:12: error: expected primary-expression before ')' token
writeAnything.h:12: error: expected primary-expression before 'void'
Jarduino_v1_1.pde: At global scope:
Jarduino_v1_1:92: error: 'ITDB02' does not name a type
.
.
.
Jarduino_v1_1.pde: In function 'void loop()':
Jarduino_v1_1:4477: error: 'myTouch' was not declared in this scope
Jarduino_v1_1:4480: error: 'myGLCD' was not declared in this scope
Jarduino_v1_1:4504: error: 'RTC' was not declared in this scope
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on January 24, 2013, 06:34:12 AM
We will find an answer!

I have tried different a PSU to eliminate noise - this made no difference.

After much head scratching - a possible (but not ideal!) workaround:

My build consists of the Arduino board, 2 Protoshields, then the ITB02 with the LCD at the top.  This is quite a hefty stack.

I decided to make up a couple of small ribbon cables (for pins 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and for power) in addition to the large 40pin extension I had already made originally for the screen.  I then left the screen plugged in directly to the shield, but extended both the ITB02 shield and the LCD away from the rest of the stack.  The screen works perfectly with no interference, lag or dodgy pixels :-)

This obviously requires a little more space behind the screen for mounting in a box but it seems to work.

That's great news, moving the shield with the screen. I have a plan!
I can buy 1m lengths of jumper ribbon on eBay and fit my own 2.54mm male and female pins.
I'm not going to use it at 1m but I can make up the 40+ wires.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 24, 2013, 08:07:12 AM
@ daplatapus - when you downloaded Jarduino v1.1 to your Mac, are you trying to upload it using the Arduino IDE that I included? That particular IDE is meant for windows only. Arduino's website has the version you need to use it with a Mac. You need an older version of the IDE (0022 or 0023) with Jarduino v1.1. However, those particular versions of the Arduino IDE have bugs that may prevent you from being able to upload my code (in particular, those versions can't handle large sketches). That is why I included the IDE with the download, because the IDE I included I modified so it would work with my large sketch without returning errors. And to make matters worse for you, I didn't modify the Mac version of the Arduino IDE. So, for v1.1, you will need to either figure out how to fix the errors with the Mac version of the IDE, or you will have to use a PC with my modified IDE. Versions 1.0.2 and later of the IDE address this issue, but Jarduino v1.1 isn't compatible (as these versions weren't out at the time I wrote it), but Jarduino v1.2 beta versions are....
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: daplatapus on January 25, 2013, 06:35:55 AM
Hey, thanks for that info. (and sorry for such a long post last time) I commandeered my wife's laptop :) and loaded everything from there. Took a while to get the driver loaded on there. Funny how when you use a Mac for a while you go windows illiterate, lol.

Everything seems to load fine, no errors. But the TFT screen is blank. It's powered up but no graphics. This is the unit I got:
http://imall.iteadstudio.com/im120419005.html
Is there part of the code I need to change for it?

Thanks for the help
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Gordon on January 25, 2013, 12:46:34 PM
Wow!!!

So after weeks of research I find the YouTube jarduino and my world changed!

I really want a DIY led system but this takes it to the next level!

Firstly Jamie, thanks! Your a rock star! On a personal note, hope the bub is well! My little girl was born 3 months before yours. Look out they start going from cut to cut and scary now!!! Lol

Onto business. I've read every page of this thread with a view to learning all I need to do this. Can't remember what sleep is now. What a marathon!

So before I get ahead of myself I have to say I'm officially intimidated by this project now. I'm a really handy guy but have no experience in programming or electrics. Reading or the really experience guys on this forum struggling I'm wondering if I have any place even attempting this project?

I've had my reef tank for I think about 10 or 11 years but have only done it "properly" for the last six months! Currently running t8's!!!

If I want to be serious about this I need a decent system.

Please be honest and tell me if I'm throwing my money away attempting this!!!

If anyone is interested I've put details of my planned led build on my local website masa in Australia. Don't know how to link but will figure out if anyone would like to see it.

Thanks guys

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on January 25, 2013, 03:57:42 PM
Welcome Gordon
to post a link isn't to hard when you are making a post there is a little Icon looks like a globe 4th on bottom from left above the box mouse over it it should read insert hyperlink just click on it and they will show up in your text box. Just post the link between them

when I started my build I was a little nervous my self. I can wire your home but never made anything like this, but after I got a good start on it I figured out I can do this, just follow Jamie's how-to from the google site and before you know it your well on your way.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on January 25, 2013, 06:16:38 PM
Hey, thanks for that info. (and sorry for such a long post last time) I commandeered my wife's laptop :) and loaded everything from there. Took a while to get the driver loaded on there. Funny how when you use a Mac for a while you go windows illiterate, lol.

Everything seems to load fine, no errors. But the TFT screen is blank. It's powered up but no graphics. This is the unit I got:
http://imall.iteadstudio.com/im120419005.html
Is there part of the code I need to change for it?

Thanks for the help

According to that link, your screen uses the SSD1289, so it matches the latest Jarduino Beta release without having to make any changes.  Did you perchance try different modules?  Usually, the best way to troubleshoot screen issues is by uploading some of the example sketches from the graph16, utft, and/or touch folders. Once you can get one of those example sketches to display and work properly, then you know what parts of the code you need to change in the Jarduino...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Gordon on January 25, 2013, 08:41:22 PM
Thanks for the reply Dale. Also thanks for the info and encouragement. Now attached is link to the arduino unit I'm looking to get http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SainSmart-Mega2560-3-2-LCD-TFT-Touch-Screen-SD-Reader-4-Arduino-UNO-R3-Robot-/261160429047?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item3cce5fe5f7&_uhb=1#ht_8254wt_1003 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SainSmart-Mega2560-3-2-LCD-TFT-Touch-Screen-SD-Reader-4-Arduino-UNO-R3-Robot-/261160429047?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item3cce5fe5f7&_uhb=1#ht_8254wt_1003)

I will do another post with link to my led schematic and what I plan to purchase. Thanks again to all for your contributions.

Cheers

Gordon
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Gordon on January 25, 2013, 08:45:08 PM
Here is the link to my tank info and planned build including planned led layouts etc for anyone who is interested. Only thing I might change is add some red. Didn't do this originally because I thought it was a waste of time but seems enough people believe they add value to reconsider that thought.

Link here http://www.masa.asn.au/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=246995 (http://www.masa.asn.au/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=246995)

Let me know what you think
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on January 26, 2013, 07:47:50 AM
I have the sainsmart shield for 3.2 tft screen.
I'm going to extend the shield away from the arduino with the LCD screen plugged directly into it because of interference issues as discussed before.
I'm wondering if anyone knows the minimum number of pins required to link the arduino to the shield?
My aim is not to use a 40 way ribbon a 6 way and an 8 way to do this.
I'm not interested in the SD card
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: braecottage on January 26, 2013, 08:40:48 AM
I have the sainsmart shield for 3.2 tft screen.
I'm going to extend the shield away from the arduino with the LCD screen plugged directly into it because of interference issues as discussed before.
I'm wondering if anyone knows the minimum number of pins required to link the arduino to the shield?
My aim is not to use a 40 way ribbon a 6 way and an 8 way to do this.
I'm not interested in the SD card
Here's what I did:

I used the whole 40 pin ribbon cable that I already had and let 4 pins hang off one end rather than make up a whole new cable.  It still fits quite nicely onto both the shield and the screen. 

I then made up two smaller ribbon cables with more header pins and sockets - one for pins 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and another one at the other side of the board for the power on pins reset, 3.3v, 5v, gnd, gnd, vin (I tried to use fewer on this lead, but after a couple of failed attempts decided to use them all.  Also doing it this way with a 6 lead ribbon gives less chance of connecting them up incorrectly!).  Both these ribbon cables are the 350mm, same length as the screen one.

You can make up a dedicated ribbon for the big double header using pins 22-41.

I also glued a couple of small stand-offs to the rear of the screen so that I could screw the shield to the screen to support the non connector side.

Mine hasn't missed a beat since I moved both the shield and the screen away, but I think I've got a few more grey hairs!!

Good Luck.
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on January 26, 2013, 09:00:21 AM
What I was hoping is that from the shield, that not all 40 pins required on the long connector so I can use a 40 pin ribbon to connect the minimum amount of pins instead of having to use 3 ribbons.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: braecottage on January 26, 2013, 09:07:58 AM
What I was hoping is that from the shield, that not all 40 pins required on the long connector so I can use a 40 pin ribbon to connect the minimum amount of pins instead of having to use 3 ribbons.
It can be done.
25 pins for the TFT and LCD Shield, and the power feed - max of 6 pins(?), 31 in total.
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on January 26, 2013, 09:16:49 AM
Cool ! I'll give it a go.
Just waiting on some 2.54mm dupont pins from Hong Kong (eBay)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: daplatapus on January 27, 2013, 06:51:50 PM


According to that link, your screen uses the SSD1289, so it matches the latest Jarduino Beta release without having to make any changes.  Did you perchance try different modules?  Usually, the best way to troubleshoot screen issues is by uploading some of the example sketches from the graph16, utft, and/or touch folders. Once you can get one of those example sketches to display and work properly, then you know what parts of the code you need to change in the Jarduino...

Woohoo! After a couple days of reading similar threads and some trial and error I found out that just changing on teeny bit of a line fixed the problem. I'm kind of embarrassed it was so easy. On line 92 of the V1.1 code I changed the line from:
ITDB02   myGLCD(38,39,40,41)
to:
ITDB       myGLCD(39,39,40,41, ITDB32S) and everything now works.
Great little program Jamie! Everything looks cool. Will be donating and getting the upgraded version!
Thanks for the help!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on February 01, 2013, 09:36:55 PM
Jamie what frequency is the pwm set to on your sketch, worked out drivers run fine when under full power but they all start failing when the higher power led driver start to dim the white up or down, replaced the arduino and around 6 drivers so far but all keep doing it just about at a loss now lol
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 02, 2013, 12:17:19 AM
Jamie what frequency is the pwm set to on your sketch, worked out drivers run fine when under full power but they all start failing when the higher power led driver start to dim the white up or down, replaced the arduino and around 6 drivers so far but all keep doing it just about at a loss now lol

For the wavemaker, it's set to 25 kHz, but for the other PWM channels, they run at the default 490 Hz.  You can change some of those channels, but not all of them as it will affect the millis() and delay() functions which in turn will adversely affect how the program runs.  Do you keep losing drivers on a particular channel?  If so, which one(s)?  Also, do you know what frequency range your drivers specify?  I may throw in a feature with the next release that allows you to change the frequency on some of the channels if it's something that will be helpful.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tattoobaz on February 02, 2013, 02:26:51 AM
Hi people hope you can help as i have no idea what im doing?

I have just loaded Jarduino v1.1 onto my arduino and it loads fine after adding "ITDB32S" to line 92.

I get to the main page and touch the screen and it takes me to the options page, from there i can do nothing.

Any one got any ideas?

Thanks Baz
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 02, 2013, 04:35:56 AM
Did you clear the EEPROM?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tattoobaz on February 02, 2013, 05:22:56 AM
Yeh i cleared the EEPROM.

At first when i uploaded i just got a white screen so i entered ITDB32S and that sorted that.

so then i ran the calibration sketch found in examples and that came up with 0, 0.00, 0, 0.00 and said at the bottom i have a 2.4"????

the touch screen worked for the calibration sketch but not when i reloaded V1.1
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on February 02, 2013, 09:46:11 AM
Just about baffled now jamie it was running fine until recently, last night i tried the pwm white channel on just one pwm driver lasted around 5 mins on the test array setting then heard the driver pop then no more pwm adjustment.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 02, 2013, 12:18:38 PM
Yeh i cleared the EEPROM.

At first when i uploaded i just got a white screen so i entered ITDB32S and that sorted that.

so then i ran the calibration sketch found in examples and that came up with 0, 0.00, 0, 0.00 and said at the bottom i have a 2.4"????

the touch screen worked for the calibration sketch but not when i reloaded V1.1

When you cleared the EEPROM, did you change the 512 to 4096?  I suggest you try to run the  EEPROM clear again, wait till the LED lights up on your Arduino (approx 15 seconds), then re-upload the Jarduino.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 02, 2013, 12:21:37 PM
Just about baffled now jamie it was running fine until recently, last night i tried the pwm white channel on just one pwm driver lasted around 5 mins on the test array setting then heard the driver pop then no more pwm adjustment.

Very odd.  Do you have your drivers directly connected to the Arduino, or do you have some kind of Mosfet in between them?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tattoobaz on February 02, 2013, 09:34:49 PM


When you cleared the EEPROM, did you change the 512 to 4096?  I suggest you try to run the  EEPROM clear again, wait till the LED lights up on your Arduino (approx 15 seconds), then re-upload the Jarduino.
[/quote]

Yes i changed the value and have tried it all several times i dont get it??

I can run both the ITDB02 and UTFT calibration Sketches but when io go to do the button tests there is no response?

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on February 02, 2013, 11:45:08 PM
arduino to driver direct, thinking of using the Optocoupler but not to sure if it will do the job, the 1,3,5w driver work spot on never failed once its just the 10w and white pwm ones
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on February 03, 2013, 02:06:43 PM
Ok fault diagnosis time,

blues, reds, moon, uv fans all run off one 36v 11 amp psu on to the sure electronics 5w, 3w, 1w drivers and dc-dc converter for the fans, all works well on that channel

the 5 x 50w whites and arduino run off the other 36v 11amp psu the arduino runs from 7v from dc-dc converter all the 10w white pwm dimmers seem to be failing.

Shoved a separate adruino set up on with a dedicated 50w led driver and a 5w pwm dimmer all is working well, changed the 5w for 10w driver, again all is working well.

Now i have put the feed from the white channel psu to the 10w led driver and feeding it from the separate arduino just linking the neutrals forgot to say the arduino is been powered by a 12v sla batt. so that eliminates the psu been faulty.

Next steps separate psu for arduino getting rid of the dc-dc converters

kind of thinking something to with with a group loop going on



May invest in some of these

http://www.ledsupply.com/0a009-d-v-1400.php
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 03, 2013, 05:26:21 PM
I like the RECOM drivers better. Have yet to hear of one failing. I use the RECOM  RCD 24's. They allow up to 36V input.  The new 48's go up to 60V!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on February 03, 2013, 05:58:26 PM
Think i capped it, did notice a few times the leds seem to flicker just to say visible but very fast, plugged the arduino on battery power noticed they stopped flickering then pluged it back in to the psu that also drive the white leds flickering again, so got a 12v 5 amp psu linked neutrals dc-dc converter to 7v and touch wood all seems fine, another thing i did notice i removed the ground wire from the heatsinks and the leds lit up ever so slightly only went back off when i re-attached the neutral again

Had the arduino run though the day night cycle around 30 times and all seems fine so far so good
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 03, 2013, 06:47:38 PM
Good news. Keep us up to date.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on February 03, 2013, 06:58:44 PM
hope you have it sorted so what was the possible cause dude ?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on February 03, 2013, 07:03:51 PM
For some reason the 36v 11 amp psu that runs the whites also runs the arduino via dc-dc converter, the leds flicker when been ramped up or down by the arduino, i shoved another arduino set up on using battery no flickering so fault had to with that psu or dc-dc converter, i just put the arduino on its own psu and linked the neutrals no flickering.

Cost me another 3 drivers today sorting that lot out glad there sending me some free ones lol
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 03, 2013, 07:43:02 PM
If it's just the two channels giving you problems, maybe you could benefit from using the ICL7667 dual mosfet, the same that is used in Krusduino in between the Arduino and the drivers. Just a suggestion since you may already have one on hand. Easy hookup with the pwm pins passing through, 5V, and GND.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on February 03, 2013, 10:27:00 PM
Just the white channel budd so far still good, going to use one of the optic couplers as i have burnt 2 arduinos out with the drivers failing all trial and error

kev
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: reefcentral on February 04, 2013, 08:51:18 PM
Hello, I just got the "PWM Fan" and not as plugging. Red and black would understand that positive and negative, but as I connect the yellow and blue wires? Best Regards
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: isacco on February 04, 2013, 10:31:07 PM
Hello, I just got the "PWM Fan" and not as plugging. Red and black would understand that positive and negative, but as I connect the yellow and blue wires? Best Regards

You only have to connect the blue one, is the PWM wire. Just cut the yellow or not connect it.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on February 05, 2013, 12:22:52 AM
Guessing the yellow is still rpm sens wire then
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 05, 2013, 01:46:43 AM
Yep, yellow is the tachometer. Leave it disconnected.
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on February 09, 2013, 05:03:05 PM
After spending 5hrs attaching pins, I can confirm that the earlier mentioned screen extension (screen and shield extended together) is working at a length of 700mm away!
Tomorrow i'll fit it to my aquarium controller.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: braecottage on February 09, 2013, 05:08:12 PM
Well Done! I can sense your relief.  Good luck mounting it in its final position tomorrow.  Mine is still behaving perfectly after adopting this approach.
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on February 09, 2013, 05:22:29 PM
Thanks for sharing in the first place!
It would seem that the voltage must be higher pre-shield compared to that between the shield and screen so less losses in the cable.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: michaellee64 on February 09, 2013, 11:54:01 PM
After much trial and error (on my part) I finally have a working version of the Jarduino!  :whoo: I'm not sure if this was already covered... but is there any way to edit the colors in the sketch? I was trying to modify the sketch, but I don't think I'm editing the right lines or maybe enough of the right lines.
Thanks,  Michael
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 10, 2013, 03:47:12 AM
There's currently no easy way to change them, but I plan on adding the ability to pick up to six customisable colors.
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on February 10, 2013, 09:36:03 AM
Screen/arduino now working glitch free!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/10/ena7ysa4.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/10/a9y7azu3.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/10/ryza2y5a.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/10/jybyqesa.jpg)
Now to work on my auto water changer/auto top up system that will be time controlled from the arduino aquarium panel timer.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: isacco on February 11, 2013, 11:55:09 PM
After 2 hours of soldering wires and 24 hours of test, I can confirm it works. Thank you nitram38.

(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff234/gigimuschi/12022013010_zps98763fab.jpg)
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on February 12, 2013, 06:37:59 AM
You should be thanking braecottage!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: isacco on February 12, 2013, 06:41:40 AM
You should be thanking braecottage!

 :c017:
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on February 12, 2013, 03:33:32 PM
isacco
That is a really nice looking build. I think I am going to have to get a larger box for mine don't have room for internet board and ph stamps
can you tell me what that box is (size) or where it cam from :)
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on February 12, 2013, 03:51:19 PM
Love to connect mine to the Internet!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: dale on February 12, 2013, 05:05:16 PM
I have 2 Jarduino units built one with all the proto boards and one that is going to just control led lighting over a tank I have ordered a few leds for it some deep red and some royal blues and a few cool white. Now just need to find a good heat sink I am leaning towards aluminum U Chanel 68 inches long X4 with 3 inch spacing for the leds. I will be trying this all out on my 180/gal FRESHwater tank that has Discus and will be adding in several large sword plants first. Just to get a feel for applying this to my reef tank system.
I will be using a 48v 400w 8.3A Psu to run 4 LDD-1000h led drivers then using jarduino to control the individual drivers LDD drivers will be mounted on a small board with power and pwm screw terminals all this will be housed in a proto box from Radio Shack or a ABS box from online some where

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: isacco on February 12, 2013, 07:50:05 PM
Thanks dale, you definately get a larger box. I get this for the small space where will be placed, but it´s a pain working in there cabeling and connecting everything. The box is 15cmx10cm (widestxlongest) Here are some inside pics.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff234/gigimuschi/12022013014_zpse5d602ad.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff234/gigimuschi/12022013017_zps7b725568.jpg)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Idefixes on February 16, 2013, 09:01:49 PM
Hi all, i don't know if it's the right place for my asking : I 'am on trying to install in my Mega 2560 R2+Itead shield v1.1+Itead 3.2S touch with Arduino 1.03 soft but when compiling the Jarduino 1.2 beta i have this error message :

(http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2013/02/16//13021609455612463310874057.jpg)

If some one could Help ....

regards Marc

EDIT :

I play with some exemple sketch coming from libraries. I am able to run screen and touch function only with sample coming from UTFT and UTouch Library.

Marc
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 16, 2013, 10:25:36 PM
Most likely the DS1307 library is out of place (or incorrect library), or you don't have the correct Arduino board selected under "tools."
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Idefixes on February 16, 2013, 11:06:15 PM
Correct arduino must selected as i can transfer exemple sketch coming from UTFT et Utouch library and they are running. The DS1307 library is the one coming from "arduino-0022-JarduinoPatch"

Marc

EDIT : It's a lot better with the right version for me V1.2 with UTFT lib
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on February 17, 2013, 11:38:57 AM
I've managed to obtain a small 2A 13.6/12v DC uninterruptible power supply for free. I'm going to add a 2.4Ah battery.
This will supply the arduino during power failures and will prevent the feeder operating on power restoration.
This will prevent possible over feeding.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: krustykrab on February 18, 2013, 10:38:58 PM
Hi everyone, I'm pretty new at doing this LED stuff and need some help on LED drivers.

I intend to use two arduinos with Jarduino 1.2 for my turtle and guinea pigs so they get better lighting and a resemblance of a day/night cycle with the LEDs. I'm looking for dimmable LED driver for the guinea pigs. The turtle tank should do with the Inventronics 700mw 40w drivers, but they're too powerful for the few LEDs on the pigs. All the low-power LED drivers I can find (eg. Mean Well) aren't dimmable. The turtles will continue to have a incandescent heat lamp.

I'm using all Cree LEDs with 40 degree lenses:
Turtle tank (48" wide): 6x XT-E natural white, 4 XT-E royal blue
Guinea pigs: 3x XT-E natural white, 2 XT-E royal blue

So as you can see it's not as complex as your reef lighting but if you know of any low-power dimmable LED drivers that I can use with the Jarduino that would be great!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 18, 2013, 11:09:26 PM
The majority of LED drivers can control (and accept) a range of voltages.  Check the specs of whatever drivers you're looking at.  See "Vmin" and "Vmax" allowances.  For instance, I use Cree's (around 3V each) with RECOM LED drivers (RCD-24 series (http://www.recom-international.com/pdf/Lightline/RCD-24.pdf)), and for the drivers in that series the Vmin is 3 or 4 Volts (So as few as one XT-E), up to Vmax = 35V (so as many as 9 or 10 Cree's).  In other words, those particular drivers can control and dim approximately 1 to 10 Cree's if wired in Series.  And like I said, most other drivers have acceptable Voltage ranges.  You don't have to max each one out.  In fact, it's good not to overload them...  Anyway, RECOMs can be a bit pricey (albeit extremely reliable), and there's much less expensive options.  You can get one of these for each channel/color: http://www.ebay.com/itm/high-efficient-led-driver-for-0-35-and-0-7-and-1A-good-for-use-with-Arduino-/370632520478?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item564b6b731e (http://www.ebay.com/itm/high-efficient-led-driver-for-0-35-and-0-7-and-1A-good-for-use-with-Arduino-/370632520478?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item564b6b731e),

or this one which has 6 in one: http://www.ledsee.com/index.php/new-products/arduino-6-channel-led-shield-035-07-1a-detail (http://www.ledsee.com/index.php/new-products/arduino-6-channel-led-shield-035-07-1a-detail)

I haven't used either of those, but others have with success.  Again, there are many more options out there (and on top of the plethora of choices, you can choose from LED drivers with separate Power Supplies, or all-in-ones).  Maybe some else can give some recommendations.  I'm always hesitant to recommend something I've never personally tried myself...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: lysium on February 19, 2013, 11:50:15 AM
Hi Jamie,

i would like to know is it possible to pwm via i2c. 
i want to build this driver https://github.com/TeraHz/I2C-LED-Driver.

TIA,
ali
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 19, 2013, 05:42:54 PM
Hi Jamie,

i would like to know is it possible to pwm via i2c. 
i want to build this driver https://github.com/TeraHz/I2C-LED-Driver.

TIA,
ali

I assume you are asking in regards to the Jarduino dimming via I2C.  Changes to the code would have to be made, but I'm sure it's possible.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on February 19, 2013, 07:47:29 PM
How is it possible to overload a led driver, a driver which regulates current and stops current going over x amount, so if a led of 3000ma is used and its been ran at 1500ma is this classed as overloading ?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on February 19, 2013, 07:57:52 PM
How is it possible to overload a led driver, a driver which regulates current and stops current going over x amount, so if a led of 3000ma is used and its been ran at 1500ma is this classed as overloading ?

If the led driver puts out 3000ma constant, putting 1500ma max leds on it would overheat them and blow them up basically. Splitting the driver into a parallel connection would turn it into 1500ma strings, and it would be ok... unless that connection were to break somehow without fuse protection and send 3000ma through the leds. I dislike parallel for this reason.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on February 19, 2013, 08:32:18 PM
no other way round, led max 3000ma and been driven at 1500ma
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 19, 2013, 08:48:19 PM
no other way round, led max 3000ma and been driven at 1500ma

They indeed are constant current drivers, but they are rated at specific voltage ranges. If you connect a LED load of 15V on a driver rated at 10V max for example, it either won't work, or if it perchance does it will significantly shorten the driver's life.  Stay within the published ranges and you should be good to go for a long long time...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: tangtastic on February 19, 2013, 10:13:48 PM
cool so my led driver been 35v max and supplying it with 34v and the led been 32Vdc ~36v is ok
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 19, 2013, 11:58:04 PM
cool so my led driver been 35v max and supplying it with 34v and the led been 32Vdc ~36v is ok

The thing is, LED drivers aren't 100% efficient.  I think RECOMs are around 85-90% efficient, so you need to find out the efficiency of your drivers and consider that as well.  So back to your setup, if you are only supplying 34V, and let's say your drivers are 90% efficient, then the driver is only outputting approximately 30.6V (34*0.9).  You should not place a load on that driver greater than that, so to answer your question, 32-36 is 2 Crees too many.

I supplied some links to some very good and brief "educational" stuff written by Mark Chester on LEDs at the beginning of this thread, but I believe the links may be dead.  Here's some updated links.  I highly recommend reading and understanding the info.  While some of the information is written explicitly for Power LED shields, those use RECOM LED drivers, and therefore any info that you can glean from it can easily be applied toward your very own proper LED setups with the LED drivers of your choice.

Article #1: LED PLANNING AND DESIGN (http://www.chestersgarage.com/electricity-101)

Article #2: LED AQUARIUM LIGHTING (http://www.chestersgarage.com/reef-aquarium-lighting)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bigguy on February 20, 2013, 01:32:01 PM
 :You_Rock_Emoticon: Many Thanks Just having a read :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: opentoideas on February 20, 2013, 01:54:00 PM
finally have mine all up and running after a bit of a driver nightmare - blew all of my first 2 sets taking out an Arduino in the process  :41:

changed the type of driver and all now seems well

big thanks to Jamie  :bravo_2:

and everyone else whos threads I have been reading and re-reading.

last problem i found was with my temperature sensors dropping in and out but finally found that if running in parasitic power mode you need to short the 5v and ground leads on the sensor which i had missed and its all working  ;D

only other thing i want to do is set up timer control for some relays but i think that will wait for a couple of weeks to give me a chance to recover a bit but i dont see much of a problem as the code is really well commented and documented so i was able to work my way through colour changes ok.

once again big thanks to Jamie for all of his hard work in writing this and giving us this great tool to work with  :c017:


Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: braecottage on February 20, 2013, 02:43:38 PM
last problem i found was with my temperature sensors dropping in and out but finally found that if running in parasitic power mode you need to short the 5v and ground leads on the sensor which i had missed and its all working  ;D
Sounds great well done.  Can you elaborate on your temp sensor issue and your fix?  Sounds very like my problem and I haven't sorted it yet despite new sensors and wiring!
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: opentoideas on February 20, 2013, 03:03:18 PM
last problem i found was with my temperature sensors dropping in and out but finally found that if running in parasitic power mode you need to short the 5v and ground leads on the sensor which i had missed and its all working  ;D
Sounds great well done.  Can you elaborate on your temp sensor issue and your fix?  Sounds very like my problem and I haven't sorted it yet despite new sensors and wiring!

the DS1820 comes in 2 variants. the "normal" one has 3 pins ground, data and 5v and there is a 2 pin which is just ground and data and it pulls the power from the data line.

you can run the 3 pin in parasitic power mode and only use 2 wires which i needed as i didn't have enough spare cores in the serial cable i used to connect my light unit but what i missed when i read the data sheet is

"Optional VDD. VDD must be grounded for operation in parasite power mode."

if you only connect the data and ground  and do not ground the Vdd pin then what i found was the temperature on the Jarduino would work and read error intermittently and i could not find any reason or fault.

when i tried the "tester" program (the one used to find the sensor addresses) i found that most of the time i had a temperature reading of 85C

grounding the Vdd solved this and no more error readings.

one of the other things i did come across is that these sensors are extremely sensitive to reverse connection and the symptoms are similar.

also incorrect pull up resistors cause similar problems so it could be a number of issues but if you are running parasitic mode then this is likely :)

the tester program is your friend here as if you have it connected with all 3 wires and the tester code shows it running in parasitic mode then it is likely to be faulty. (probable reverse connection)

also you can test the sensor by holding it and watching the temperature rise

hope this helps
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on February 20, 2013, 07:18:06 PM
I forget if I asked this before. How much power does the Jarduino draw with only the lcd PWM pins connected (no temp sensors or anything else hooked up). Would it be under 1A?

I'm trying to keep things on one power supply. With Meanwell ldd drivers and 120+ leds installed, I'm already drawing 7.3 A from a 500w 48v 10A PS. Figure 88% efficiency from the PS, I'll need to keep fans and the Jarduino via step downs under 8.8A.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: opentoideas on February 20, 2013, 10:29:33 PM
I forget if I asked this before. How much power does the Jarduino draw with only the lcd PWM pins connected (no temp sensors or anything else hooked up). Would it be under 1A?

I'm trying to keep things on one power supply. With Meanwell ldd drivers and 120+ leds installed, I'm already drawing 7.3 A from a 500w 48v 10A PS. Figure 88% efficiency from the PS, I'll need to keep fans and the Jarduino via step downs under 8.8A.

not sure if you might be worrying about nothing...

your PSU  should be good for the rated 10A (though some overhead is good) the 88% efficiency just means that to output 500W it will be consuming 570W at the wall.

FWIW just measured mine and its about 150mA

Dave
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on February 20, 2013, 10:38:56 PM
Ah, nice. I thought it drew much more than that. Thanks.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: opentoideas on February 20, 2013, 10:45:10 PM
Ah, nice. I thought it drew much more than that. Thanks.

its not much but i think you need to be careful about under powering it as a voltage drop would make it unstable which is why the suggestion of 2A  to be sure the PSU has plenty of legroom.

glad to help
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: Daka on February 21, 2013, 04:56:21 PM
I am building my system around a good quality Computer supply. It has all need voltages (12,5,3). My LED supply is separate because I got a package deal. Just my 2 cents.........
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: bhazard451 on February 22, 2013, 04:49:00 AM
Jamie, you might be interested in this.

There is a new MP40/Tunze chinese knockoff that uses 24v DC (and possibly pwm). Looking at the internals, it would seem to be pretty simple to connect to the jarduino for tunze-like variable wave control... which could also be used for storm modes or synced to the led intensity. Best part is, its only ~$100 shipped.

Internals:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2264801

Pump:
https://www.fish-street.com/jebo_wp-40_13000l_wave_maker?category_id=126
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on February 22, 2013, 06:41:35 AM
Tagtastic, can't reply to your message.
Jamie set me the correct libraries for the sainsmart LCD and you have to uncomment the correct SD line. Hope that helps.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: opentoideas on February 22, 2013, 07:01:58 PM
can anyone help with likely reasons for failing arduino pins connected to the temperature sensors?

having got everything working the other day i had my temperatures drop out again and after a lot of checks  found that pin 51 was low.

best guess at the time was that perhaps the waterproof sensors were not fully watertight which shorted the pin blowing it..

moved the sensors to pin 50 and left them out of the water and have just got home to the same problem again.

i need to find the reason behind this before i loose any more pins but i an stumped and hoping for some inspiration.

i dont know if it will interfere withe the correct operation but i am going to try adding a resistor into the data pin to limit current to try and protect the next pin. hopefully as its a digital signal it should be ok but it still wont solve the real problem even if it does work.

any ideas?

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 22, 2013, 07:57:36 PM
What size and how many resistors are you using?  Post a pic of how you have it hooked up.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: opentoideas on February 22, 2013, 09:27:35 PM
What size and how many resistors are you using?  Post a pic of how you have it hooked up.

single 4K7 pullup with 2 sensors.

wired in parasitic power mode.

i have added a 220R resistor in series with the data line after the pullup resistor as that should now limit the possible current drain on the pin to below max but this was not present at the time of failure.

wiring is as per your diagram but with 5v and ground of the sensors connected at the sensor and only data and ground to the arduino.

the current limiting resistor seems not to be interfering with operation so time will tell if it protects the board but i would like to try and find out what is causing the problem.

any thoughts are welcome
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: opentoideas on February 23, 2013, 08:28:31 AM

(https://graph.facebook.com/676827028997898/picture)

as for a diagram you posted this which was correct at the time for the person who had the 2 wire parasitic only version but for the normal 3 pin version you also need to connect together pins 1 and 3 as pin 3 must be grounded which i have done.

this was my first issue as i copied this layout and the sensors were dropping out every so often.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: opentoideas on February 24, 2013, 12:04:12 AM
well if i can track down whats wrong it may help Kevin (braecottage) as i now have the same issue with the temperatures dropping out randomly...

i notice we both have the same ready assembled waterproof sensor probes so that may be a common factor to take into account.

i may need to get some bare chips to test but here is what i have observed so far.

readings drop out at random for at least 3 seconds up to a minute.

it also randomly is 1,2 or all three that drop out

as i currently only have 2 sensors connected i assigned the same sensor address to both hood and sump (ok not a planned for occurrence in the code so i understand this may have introduced instability)

now here is where it gets wierd  - the dropouts still randomly occur however sump could drop out while hood was still showing and vice versa even though they were the same sensor

just for curiosity i assigned the same sensor to water as well so that all 3 were reading the same sensor and they still drop out randomly same as before.

now i know there must be some fault as i didnt loose 2 pins on the arduino for no reason but its an odd problem.

heat is unlikely as i only raise 4 degrees from off to full power.

wire length and number of connections is a possible issue but next to try will be one sensor directly connected to the arduino and see if that works correctly.

one other similarity between my build and Kevins is we have our drivers and arduino mounted separately to the lighting unit and a serial cable connecting them carrying the LED power and sensor connections.

i did wonder if there may be crosstalk from the PWM feeds interfering with the sensor signal but it still drops out with all lighting off although it does seem worse the higher the lighting power used.

hmm i remember reading about someone else having unexpected behavure when the arduino was powered from the same PSU as the LED's

i have changed to USB power to see if that might solve it and no dropouts in 30 minutes.  time will tell but it seems strange.

Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: braecottage on February 24, 2013, 01:59:11 AM
well if i can track down whats wrong it may help Kevin (braecottage) as i now have the same issue with the temperatures dropping out randomly...

I have sussed my temperature probe issue.  When all else fails - check the obvious.  I initially ran my Jarduino for a few days in "testing" before using it on the tank and my new led hood.  It worked perfectly.  When testing was finished I made up some leads using D sub connectors to connect my modular box to the hood.  That is when my problems with the temp probes started. 

I checked continuity and resistance between my proto board and my temp probes - all seemed fine with zero resistance in my new leads including the d sub connectors - I ruled them out as the problem source.

Last night I decided to run a dedicated lead soldered directly onto the probes to the proto board eliminating the d sub connectors altogether - it has worked perfectly ever since.  It seems like there must be a dirty connection in one of my d sub connectors and although the lead measures zero resistance, when power passes through it it drops out every now and again.  As the probes work on such a minute current (1-1.5mA) a bad connection must have been causing my issue resulting in the error message which in turn sounded my alarm and temporarily stopped my fans.

Thanks to everyone who made suggestions and racked their brains trying to help me out. 
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: opentoideas on February 24, 2013, 09:44:07 AM

I have sussed my temperature probe issue. 

glad you got it sorted.

interesting, same problem and different solution. mine has also not dropped out overnight since i went to a different power source to the arduino.

i also had it working in testing but had my serial cables in use then but only added the fixed power when i started using it.

hope it keeps working as to run the sensors separately would be a real pain in my setup.

fingers crossed
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on February 24, 2013, 01:52:17 PM
Jamie, I had a slight issue with the heater relay getting stuck on.
Although you have an adjustable offset in the jarduino, once the temp goes to the limit of the offset, the relay is constantly switching.
Do you have any plans for a an algorithm to combat this?
In other words, heater stays on until limit reached then switches off until the lower limit is reached. Cheers martin.
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 24, 2013, 07:09:39 PM
@opentoideas - Thanks for pointing out the error with the "Parasite Power Mode" hookup. I updated the diagram.  Note that even without a GND on VDD, it will still work, however it's generally best to go with the manufacturer's recommendations...
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 24, 2013, 07:31:16 PM
Jamie, I had a slight issue with the heater relay getting stuck on.
Although you have an adjustable offset in the jarduino, once the temp goes to the limit of the offset, the relay is constantly switching.
Do you have any plans for a an algorithm to combat this?
In other words, heater stays on until limit reached then switches off until the lower limit is reached. Cheers martin.

Hey Martin, hope all is well with you.  You bring up a great point.  I think it would be better if the heater/chiller, once activated, should stay on until the desired temp is reached (rather than the offset temp).  The more I think about it, the better this sounds.  Should be a fairly easy fix.  This is what you mean, right?
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on February 24, 2013, 07:45:31 PM
Yes exactly right!
It would save wear and tear on the relay contacts
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 24, 2013, 07:55:38 PM
Yes exactly right!
It would save wear and tear on the relay contacts

Done & Tested; email with fix enroute. 
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on February 24, 2013, 07:58:31 PM
Wow that's fast!
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on February 24, 2013, 08:47:23 PM
I've uploaded it and so far so good. The constant switching has gone.
Set my offset to 0.5 degrees C.
Just waiting for the temp to drop from 26 to 25.5 to see if it works.
I'll keep you posted.
Thanks again Jamie
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: promazine on February 24, 2013, 09:57:41 PM
Jamie - I've noticed an issue with the time/date on my controller - it seems to take about 5 minutes real time to clock up one minute on the controller.
I've literally just noticed, so havnt actually tried anything yet. But I was thinking, can this be a simple battery issue? I thought that the battery is only there to keep the time/settings if the power goes out? If that is correct - could there be a physical problem with my shield? I'd have thought if here had been a component failure the RTC simply wouldn't work, rather than be very slow? My touch screen works perfectly btw
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on February 24, 2013, 10:09:05 PM
Nearly always a poor soldered joint on the clock
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: promazine on February 24, 2013, 10:10:06 PM
Looks like I'm getting my iron out then  ::)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: promazine on February 24, 2013, 11:21:44 PM
Just been over every contact in the shield, plugged it back in - same result   :'(

Any one have any ideas before I order a new one?
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: promazine on February 25, 2013, 12:15:32 AM
Sorted it - remembered I had a test rig shield that I had messed about with. Desoldered some screw shield bits I had put on there and whacked it onto the arduino - worked first time. So now I have an ugly, horribly soldered shield in my control box and a nice neat one on my desk that doesn't work  ::)
Title: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: nitram38 on February 25, 2013, 07:04:17 AM
Jamie, new software mod for temp works a treat. I've got to change the relay as it still sticks
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: wgraham on February 25, 2013, 04:15:32 PM
Jamie, I need the fix also for the relays
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: promazine on February 25, 2013, 06:12:49 PM
Just a quick one - can anyone tell me, is a transistor/resistor/diode combo required per fan, or can one 'set' be used for 2 wired together? In the manual it only shows one fan, but I'm not sure if thats just for the purposes of the diagram, or if thats the rule per fan :)
Title: Re: 44 Gallon Pentagon Corner Tank LED Hood - DIY Build + EXTRAS
Post by: TheDOdblG on February 26, 2013, 03:06:58 AM
Jamie, I need the fix also for the relays

Hi, the fix I did for nitram38 was to a heavily modified version of Jarduino that eliminates LEDs and several other functions, so that code will be of little to no use for you.  The fix is for the relays for the heater and chiller only.  This fix will be included in the next release, but if you don't feel like waiting around for me to get it finished, you can make the changes yourself.  Below is the function I modified.  Simply delete the function on line 1245-1316 (Jarduino v1.2 Beta 2), and replace it with this one:
Code: [Select]
/******************************** TEMPERATURE FUNCTIONS *******************************/
void checkTempC()
{
  sensors.requestTemperatures();   // call sensors.requestTemperatures() to issue a global
                                   // temperature request to all devices on the bus
  tempW = (sensors.getTempC(waterThermometer));  //read water temperature
  tempH = (sensors.getTempC(hoodThermometer));   //read hood's heatsink temperature
  tempS = (sensors.getTempC(sumpThermometer));   //read sump's heatsink temperature

  if (tempW<(setTempC+offTempC+alarmTempC) && tempW>(setTempC-offTempC-alarmTempC)) {
    tempAlarmflag = false;
    digitalWrite(tempAlarmPin, LOW); }